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Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Aug 27, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597

Endowed with an unmistakable aesthetic, the Breguet Tradition is based on the souscription calibre made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796. Arguably the pioneer with the open-dial design that exposes the movement, the Tradition’s construction allows for creativity even with basic complications, like a retrograde seconds for instance. The new Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 continues with the overarching theme of the line. Based on the Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, the 7597 does away with the seconds display and instead installed an oversized retrograde date complication. Initial thoughts I find the Tradition aesthetic unique and charming, thanks to the characteristic, exposed movement construction that can seem haphazardly arranged at times. Despite the angular and geometric shapes of the bridges, most of them are trapezoidal in shape with few parallel edges, bestowing a more organic appearance to the highly mechanical appearance. While a conventional date window is mundane, the retrograde date elevates the complication both visually and mechanically. Retrograde displays are often encountered in Breguet watches – something that started with A.-L. Breguet himself – and are typically done well, both stylistically and technically. The Tradition 7597 is, in short, an attractively designed watch that sticks to Breguet’s tradition strengths in design and mechanics, while offering a useful complication executed in an elegant manner. Tradition restyled The 759...

Bernhard Lederer Debuts the Central Impulse Chronometer Prototype SJX Watches
Aug 25, 2020

Bernhard Lederer Debuts the Central Impulse Chronometer Prototype

A member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since its founding in 1985, Bernhard Lederer is a veteran of independent watchmaking. Though known amongst collectors for having founded the brand BLU in 2002, Mr Lederer is more of a watchmaker’s watchmaker, supplying movements and complications via his company MHM (short for “Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie et Micromécanique”). Born in Germany but based in Switzerland for decades, Mr Lederer’s technical prowess is on full view with his latest creation – the Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC). Seemingly a mere three-hand wristwatch on the front, the CIC is a actually a significant accomplishment – and undoubtedly one of the most notable watches of 2020 from a technical perspective. The movement is equipped with a natural escapements as well as dual gear trains. The construction is familiar – Mr Lederer describes it as a tribute to the late George Daniels and his landmark Space Traveller pocket watch – but improved and refined with the addition a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism for each going train. Initial thoughts With seemingly everything already having been done in watchmaking, it is not often that we encounter a genuinely interesting – and improved – twist to an already uncommon escapement. Here Mr Lederer rejuvenates the centuries-old idea of the natural escapement, but elevated by the added complexity and performance gains of twin remontoir going tr...

All New Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review Simplicity Aug 25, 2020

All New Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review

Simplicity is complexity On August 25th, 2020, Ulysse Nardin unveiled their latest timepiece. A timepiece that is bound to send shockwaves throughout the watchmaking world. The Ulysse Nardin Blast comes as part of the brand’s executive collection, which features audacious timepieces that cement Ulysse Nardin’s legacy as a permanent innovator. You can check out the brand’s website here and find where you can see these amazing timepieces in person here. According to Ulysse Nardin, the Blast was created by drawing inspiration from a variety of sources. From fire and ice, magma and glaciers, violent lava eruptions and cascading ice shelves to mechanical, aeronautical marvels of fighter jets and stealth aircraft.  Just as incredible and powerful as earth and mother nature is with its wild extremities, the Ulysse Nardin Blast is comparatively a potent force in the watchmaking world. This technological wonder has a masculine design, from different shapes and sharp lines to an open-worked dial that is finished off with a tourbillon.  To encompass this latest creation, Ulysse Nardin is partnering up with Carsten Peter, a World Press Photo award winner who photographs some of the most extreme conditions on the surface of the Earth. His thirst for daunting and dangerous adventure to capture some of the most incredible photos has taken him to places many would dare not go; into tornadoes, over glaciers, and as close as possible to the intense heat of volcanoes. Carsten Peter h...

The Ulysse Nardin Blast is an explosive ode to the hottest jet ever created Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Aug 24, 2020

The Ulysse Nardin Blast is an explosive ode to the hottest jet ever created

Since time immemorial, Ulysse Nardin has been renowned in the maritime world for their marine chronometers and nautically themed, complicated wristwatches. In fact, for the latter part of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, the Le Locle watchmaker created bespoke timekeeping devices for the navies of over 50 different countries. … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast is an explosive ode to the hottest jet ever created appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Batman trailer just dropped and we wonder, will The Batman wear a Chanel J12? Time+Tide
Chanel J12? Aug 24, 2020

The new Batman trailer just dropped and we wonder, will The Batman wear a Chanel J12?

The trailer for The Batman just dropped, and anyone worried that it’s going to go all Twilight via Robert Pattinson should have their fears properly allayed. It’s as grim and gritty as ever, and the beatdown he puts on a henchmen in this short clip is nothing short of vicious. But while the trailer for The … ContinuedThe post The new Batman trailer just dropped and we wonder, will The Batman wear a Chanel J12? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs. the Laureato Absolute Chronograph – the Beauty and The Beast Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs Aug 22, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs. the Laureato Absolute Chronograph – the Beauty and The Beast

If you were to pick Girard-Perregaux’s Jekyll & Hyde, this would be the pair of watches that fit the bill; the Laureato 38mm and the Laureato Absolute Chronograph. Girard-Perregaux is a distinguished but quiet presence on the horological scene, and have a history whose shadow and depth extends well beyond the brand’s current day reputation. … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs. the Laureato Absolute Chronograph – the Beauty and The Beast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Roma Synergy SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Introduces Aug 22, 2020

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Roma Synergy

Schwarz Etienne is best known for its interesting, in-house movements that are diverse but built on the same basic platform. The brand’s watches, on the other hand, do not possess the same level of appeal as its movements. With a newly-announced tie up with Voutilainen – the highly-regarded independent watchmaker founded by the eponymous Finn – Schwarz Etienne is attempting to inject a little of the artisanal look and feel that distinguishes Voutilainen’s creations. The fruit of the collaboration is the Roma Synergy, a time-only automatic wristwatch featuring a guilloche dial made by Voutilainen, which is also responsible for some decorative touches on the movement. Initial thoughts The look of the watch is immediately reminiscent of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity and first-generation Chopard L.U.C (the Chopard was introduced in 1996, while the Simplicity in 2000). It’s a classical, mid-20th century look, so the resemblance is not a bad thing. But unlike the other two, the dial makes full use of Voutilainen’s engine-turning capabilities. It’s ambitiously decorated with three different guilloche patterns, giving it a slightly frantic look. Voutilainen also adds its finesse to the back, most obviously on the barrel ratchet wheel, but the result is a bit of a mismatch. The rest of the movement, which includes an Etachron regulator for the balance, does not live up to the finely-finished ratchet wheel. And the Roma Synergy costs just over US$30,000 – three ...

Insight: Barraud’s Weight and the Marine Chronometer SJX Watches
Aug 21, 2020

Insight: Barraud’s Weight and the Marine Chronometer

Although precision watchmaking is today mostly synonymous with Switzerland, the oft forgotten truth is that much of the technological progress and development in horology during the 18th and early 19th centuries originated in England. The preeminence of English watchmaking during that period is perhaps personified by John Harrison, the carpenter-turned-clockmaker best known for his invention of the marine chronometer. Harrison and his contemporaries advanced horology in an era where the pursuit of accurate timekeeping was of national importance for the United Kingdom: the marine chronometer enabled ships to traverse the highs seas while maintaining positional accuracy over extremely long distances, an achievement that no doubt helped the rise of the globe-spanning British Empire. The curious chronometer On a recent visit to Charles Frodsham & Co Ltd. – the English chronometer manufacturer now run by Philip Whyte and Richard Stenning that’s making wristwatches equipped with a natural escapement – a rather curious timekeeper from England’s heyday as a watch and clockmaking nation emerged. Dating to 1845, it was marine chronometer no. 2388 manufactured by Barraud, later Barraud & Lund, a now defunct English watchmaker (though a descendant of the company, Lund & Blockley, remains in operation to this day as a retailer in Mumbai). While the well-preserved state of the clock was impressive in itself, closer inspection of the movement revealed a peculiar feature. Sitting...

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm is the best Longines all-rounder in years Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm Aug 19, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm is the best Longines all-rounder in years

Collectively, a decent amount of people were shocked when Longines decided to revive the Spirit appellation earlier this year … and shocked in a good way. You see, as far as novelty unveilings go, the Saint-Imier watchmaker had already outdone themselves in 2020 (think Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 or HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green), they … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Chronograph 42mm is the best Longines all-rounder in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Aug 19, 2020

TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44mm Hands-on Review

As part of Tag Heuer’s 160th-anniversary celebration Tag Heuer recently released four new flagship models. These new models will join the brands existing Evergreen collection. The four new models are different variants of the Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02. This new model is based on the brand’s iconic 1963 racing chronograph “the Carrera” and has been updated with modern styling and performance.  The original 1963 Carrera model was presented as a “race-car dashboard for the wrist”. This watch at the time reflected Jack Heuer’s passion for racing and what was required for drivers to achieve better lap times during racing events. Jack Heuer’s interest in motorsport rose when he heard the story of the iconic Carrera Panamericana race. The Carrera Panamericana race was like no other. It was a 2096-mile-long border-to-border race across Mexico. Drivers would have to face harsh conditions and treacherous desert landscape, all the while travelling at 100mph (+). The race has arguably one of the highest mortality rates per race in the history of motorsport racing, leaving 27 drivers dead. The race lasted only five years and stopped in 1954.  Jack Heuer designed the very first Tag Heuer Carrera as he took inspiration from the Carrera Panamericana race and its legendary status along with the courage and bravery showed by the drivers to tackle the unforgiving conditions. The original Carrera model was designed with dial elements that would serve to improve the ...

Tour de France cyclist spotted racing with a $168,000 Richard Mille on his wrist Time+Tide
Richard Mille Aug 19, 2020

Tour de France cyclist spotted racing with a $168,000 Richard Mille on his wrist

Cycling is a sport known for its speed and the dramatic risks that cyclists will take to win races. Every time the Tour de France is raced, there is almost guaranteed to be a handful of big crashes involving dozens of riders, leaving bikes and equipment often damaged beyond repair. That’s why it was a … ContinuedThe post Tour de France cyclist spotted racing with a $168,000 Richard Mille on his wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to Time+Tide
Longines VP Aug 18, 2020

We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to

The Longines Spirit release is a totally new collection this year, something that is already very exciting in and of itself, but also because it’s an entirely new chapter for the brand. Longines, just like many of the finest watchmakers in the world, slowly improve their watches over time and rarely release entirely new collections, … ContinuedThe post We asked the Longines VP of Marketing lots of questions about the new Spirit collection so you don’t have to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Platinum Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Platinum Aug 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Platinum

Omega shows no signs of stopping when it comes to James Bond special editions, despite Bond showing no signs of showing up for 2020. Last year we saw the release of a Seamaster Diver 300M jam-packed with nods to 007’s heritage as a celebration of the 50th anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Now, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Spirit collection range review Time+Tide
Longines Spirit collection range review Aug 17, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines Spirit collection range review

When we first caught wind that Longines was going to be releasing a totally new collection in 2020, we were very excited. They are a brand with a number of strongly performing collections that could easily see them sitting on their haunches, simply tweaking the recipe of their success with different dial variations, but they … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Spirit collection range review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot and Ferrari create new Esports series with Assetto Corsa, and a little help from their friend, Charles Leclerc Time+Tide
Hublot Aug 13, 2020

Hublot and Ferrari create new Esports series with Assetto Corsa, and a little help from their friend, Charles Leclerc

One of the most interesting things about the Coronavirus pandemic is how everyone has had to adapt to the new norm. Social distancing, working from home, Zoom catch-ups and stockpiling booze and toilet paper like it’s gold bullion. All part of a day’s work in 2020. It’s also been fascinating and, for the most part, … ContinuedThe post Hublot and Ferrari create new Esports series with Assetto Corsa, and a little help from their friend, Charles Leclerc appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink And Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pink Edition: Is Pink The New Blue? And Does It Even Matter? Quill & Pad
Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Aug 10, 2020

Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink And Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pink Edition: Is Pink The New Blue? And Does It Even Matter?

Hublot always seems to have a finger on the pulse of what is currently moving people. And in this spirit the brand has recently launched a 'gender-neutral' Big Bang in a color marketed as 'Millennial Pink.' And Zenith has also recently announced a Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pink Edition, both of which have prodded Martin Green into taking a dive into 'gender-neutral watches.' And he wonders why there aren't more of them.

Up Close: G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold SJX Watches
Casio has been Aug 10, 2020

Up Close: G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold

Casio has been on a roll with the G-Shock Full Metal, which is essentially the original G-Shock DW-5000 of 1983 but reproduced in steel or titanium with a matching metal bracelet. Originally launched in gold-plated steel, the Full Metal has since been iterated endlessly – from titanium to “grid” to steel to aged gunmetal – making the concept a little less interesting because there are now so many variants. And then there is the G-Shock Dream Project “Pure Gold”, the most expensive G-Shock ever made, executed entirely in 18k gold, from screws to clasp. A watch that took over a decade to materialise, the idea for a solid-gold G-Shock originated in 2007 with the founder of Japanese watch retailer Eye Eye Isuzu, Yasuyuki Iima, who wanted “a symbolic product for the iconic digital wristwatch born in Japan”. Mr Iima’s suggestion was the genesis of the “Dream Project” of G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe. And when the solid-gold G-Shock was finally delivered in late 2019, Mr Iima received the very first example. One example of the Dream Project was delivered to Singapore – you’ll find the arrival and unboxing here – and I got to examine it up close. Initial thoughts The Dream Project is a magnificent and preposterous watch that costs US$70,000 – an iconic watch executed in a ridiculously over-the-top manner, akin to installing the W16 engine from the Bugatti Chiron in a Volkswagen Beetle. And that makes it cool. Dense, shiny, and very gold, the Dream Pro...

Rolex Debuts “Perpetual Music” – Classical Concerts Online SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts “Perpetual Music” – Aug 10, 2020

Rolex Debuts “Perpetual Music” – Classical Concerts Online

A longtime supporter of classical music and opera, Rolex is backing a trio of summertime concerts that will be broadcast online to a global audience – the first of the Perpetual Music series. Conceived to support musicians and artists whose worked have been derailed by the pandemic, the Perpetual Music concerts take place in August and September 2020, in Italy, France, and Germany, and will be available for free on Medici.tv, an online channel dedicated to classical music. “When musicians have suffered both the loss of audience and income, our aim is to provide them the opportunity to perform with renowned artists at prestigious venues with the finest acoustics,” says Arnaud Boetsch, Rolex Director of Communication & Image, in the announcement for Perpetual Music. Three musicians who are Rolex “testimonees” – the watchmaker’s label for its brand ambassadors – Juan Diego Flórez, Rolando Villazón, and Sonya Yoncheva, will each be performing at one concert, along with some 100 artists who are part of staging and executing the performances. Also taking part in the final concert is violinist Renaud Capuçon, who helped organise the concerts. Importantly, all of the musicians participating in the concert will be paid. The concert schedule starts with tenor Juan Diego Flórez on August 21 at the Teatro Rossini in Pesaro, Italy; followed by soprano Sonya Yoncheva on September 1 at the Berlin Staatsoper; and finally tenor Rolando Villazón with Renaud Capuç...

Hunter S. Thompson: The unlikely Rolex Man Time+Tide
Rolex Man “I hate Aug 8, 2020

Hunter S. Thompson: The unlikely Rolex Man

“I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they’ve always worked for me.” Hunter S. Thompson was good like that. Always generous when it came to doling out whacked-out life advice. In his writing, he offered heartfelt tips on many things, from hotel liaisons (“Don’t have sex in the lobby – … ContinuedThe post Hunter S. Thompson: The unlikely Rolex Man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook Bronze Aug 6, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy

To even the most casual Time+Tide reader, the Rado Captain Cook is likely to be a known quantity. A strong, stainless steel, vintage-inspired design, backed up by a reliable modern movement in a range of sizes … all true, but that’s no longer the extent of it. For the first time, we can now add … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Aug 5, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon

Originally a series of highly-complicated, extra-large watches for men, the Royal Oak Concept line up has grown to include a handful of women’s watches, including the brand-new and extremely striking Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon. Powered by a hand-wound tourbillon movement, the Royal Oak Concept for women combines the traditional, faceted Concept with the granular Frosted Gold finish conceived by an Italian jeweller for Audemars Piguet, along with a distinctive new dial style of stacked, concentric rings. Initial thoughts When this arrived in my inbox I was quite taken by the styling. Thanks to the shapes and simple finishes, the dial and hands have a clean geometric style that works surprisingly well with the angular Concept case. And the tourbillon serves a higher, aesthetic purpose, with the cage continuing the concentric-ring motif of the dial. With the men’s Concept watches being so large they don’t really fit well on most wrists (especially due to the integrated strap), the women’s Concept at 38.5 mm in diameter probably sits well on most wrists, male or female. Given AP’s mastery of case finishing and the typically high quality of its dials, I expect the watch will be gorgeous in real life. But also given AP’s aggressively high pricing for its watches, I expect this watch to be extremely expensive (prices were not available at press time). Stepped rings The most unusual feature of the new watch is the dial design, a first for the Roy...

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook bronze collection Aug 4, 2020

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials

By now, you should be familiar with the Rado Captain Cook collection, inspired by a historical Rado reference from the golden age of dive watches. This year, the collection has launched three new references, announcing the Rado Captain Cook bronze for the first time ever. This warmly toned coloured metal complements the already vibrant array … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: 5 of our favourite Dan Henry watches, including the “spectacular dial” of the new 1937 Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: 5 of our favourite Dan Henry watches, including the “spectacular dial” of the new 1937

Editor’s note: We recently covered the launch of Dan Henry’s latest addition to his range, the Dan Henry 1937, a cleanly designed chronograph that looks back to some of the most iconic watches in the category. If we need any more proof that Dan’s watches are taken very seriously by all levels of enthusiasts, we … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: 5 of our favourite Dan Henry watches, including the “spectacular dial” of the new 1937 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Seiko divers, sandblasted Octos and a queen of the safe Time+Tide
Seiko divers sandblasted Octos Jul 30, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Seiko divers, sandblasted Octos and a queen of the safe

As the minutes tick ever closer to 6pm, and each member of the Time+Tide team finishes up their work for the week in their respective homes, thoughts turn to very important matters. Such as, what will the knock-off drink of choice be this week? How many blessed days without a Zoom call? And, what is … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Seiko divers, sandblasted Octos and a queen of the safe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB Time+Tide
Massena Lab How can Jul 30, 2020

INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB

How can a table clock be desirable? My thought process is well on the way to becoming coherent, meaning Sellable To The Wife. She has a background as a buyer in the oil business, so I can’t tell her that the need for a USD$27,000 non-wearable time piece is driven by desire.  The title of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.