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WristBuzzBrandsDoxa

Doxa

The orange dial that changed diving. Founded in Le Locle in 1889, Doxa pioneered legibility underwater with the 1967 SUB 300, developed in partnership with Jacques Cousteau. The distinctive Professional orange dial remains one of watchmaking's most recognisable signatures.

Founded1889
HeadquartersLe Locle, Switzerland
FounderGeorges Ducommun
CategorySwiss Dive Watch Specialist
WristBuzz Articles221
Doxa

Photo: Hodinkee · Apr 2, 2026

1889Founded
Orange dialSince 1967
1200mProfessional depth
Le LocleSwiss made
221WristBuzz Articles

The Doxa Story

Georges Ducommun founded Doxa in 1889 in Le Locle with a focus on precision and innovation, and the firm made an early name for itself by winning the Neuchâtel Observatory competition for chronometry in the 1890s. Through the 1920s and 1930s the brand gained further fame for Art Deco dashboard clocks fitted to aristocratic European automobiles, and during the First World War it supplied military chronographs to Russian officers - a pragmatic Swiss maker with a reputation for getting the details right.

The pivotal moment came in 1967 when Doxa launched the SUB 300 after a three-year collaboration with the Jacques Cousteau Society. The research determined that a bright orange dial would remain visible underwater at greater depths than any other colour. The SUB 300 also introduced a patented unidirectional rotating bezel with US Navy no-decompression dive time markings, a watchmaking first. Cousteau's Conshelf team adopted the watch for expedition use, and the SUB 300 quickly became the definitive 1970s dive watch for both recreational and professional divers.

After a turbulent quartz-crisis period and a near-collapse, the brand was revived by the Jenny family in 2002 under an independent Swiss structure based once again in Le Locle. Modern Doxa produces the SUB 300, SUB 300T, SUB 600T, and SUB 1200T Professional across a range of dial colours including the signature Professional orange, Searambler silver, Divingstar yellow, Caribbean blue, and Sharkhunter black. The 1200T carries a certified depth rating to 1,200 metres, making it one of the deepest mechanical dive watches ever produced.

Iconic Collections

Since 1967 (revived 2019)
SUB 300 ↗
The original. Modern Doxa's faithful reissue of the 1967 reference, with the beads-of-rice bracelet, domed sapphire crystal, and the unidirectional bezel with US Navy no-decompression scale. Five signature dial colours including the iconic Professional orange. Under $2,500 for a genuinely historic dive watch reference.
Full SUB 300 Guide
Since 2021
SUB 300T
The 1970s evolution of the SUB 300. Larger 42mm case, thicker crystal, 1,200m depth rating. The 300T became the working dive watch of choice for Conshelf expeditions and remains a key Doxa reference. Modern reissues preserve the period design language while upgrading movements and materials.
Since 2006
SUB 600T
An intermediate tier between the 300T and the 1200T Professional. Ceramic bezel option, helium escape valve, 600m water resistance. The 600T appeals to divers wanting serious specifications without the full dimensions of the 1200T flagship case.
Since 2009
SUB 1200T Professional
Doxa's depth-rated flagship. 1,200 metres of water resistance, helium escape valve, monobloc case construction, and the Professional orange dial as its signature. One of the deepest mechanical dive watches regularly produced and a favourite of serious saturation divers.
Since 2019
SUB 200
The accessible entry point. 42mm case, 200m water resistance, automatic movement at under $1,000. The SUB 200 brings the Doxa design language to collectors who want the orange dial heritage without the specification overhead of the professional models.
Since 2023
Army
A vintage military reissue based on a 1960s Swiss Army commission. Bronze or steel case, matte field-watch dial, and the Doxa case architecture applied to a land-watch aesthetic. Limited production and a departure from the brand's pure dive focus.

Heritage Timeline

1889
Georges Ducommun founds Doxa in Le Locle, Switzerland. Early success comes from precision chronometry and from Art Deco dashboard clocks used in pre-WWII luxury automobiles.
1967
SUB 300 launches after three years of research with Jacques Cousteau's team. The orange dial, unidirectional bezel with US Navy dive scale, and 300m water resistance become instant benchmarks.
1969
Cousteau's Conshelf expeditions adopt the SUB 300 as official equipment. Doxa becomes synonymous with serious 1970s diving.
1983
Quartz crisis effectively ends independent production. The brand passes through ownership changes and near dormancy for nearly two decades.
2002
The Jenny family revives Doxa as an independent Swiss brand based in Le Locle. The SUB 300 reissue and the SUB 600T/1200T Professional restore the brand to serious collector status.
2019
Doxa opens direct retail in New York and introduces new signature dial colours and the SUB 200 entry reference, broadening the modern catalogue while preserving the heritage design language.

Latest Doxa News

Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Doxa CEO Jan Edocs
Apr 2, 2026
Fratello
Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 II Collection
Mar 30, 2026
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Doxa Just Gave Its Most Accessible Dive Watch Fumé Dials And A Thinner Case
Mar 29, 2026
Worn & Wound
Doxa Introduces the SUB 200 II Diver
Mar 25, 2026
Time+Tide
Bigger, bolder, and more refined than ever, Doxa unveils the SUB 200 II
Mar 24, 2026
Monochrome
First Look – Doxa Introduces the SUB 200 II Collection, The Retro Diver Revised (Incl. Video)
Mar 24, 2026
Fratello
What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €1,000? - Featuring Citizen, Seiko, Baltic, Doxa, Certina, And More
Mar 24, 2026
Monochrome
First Look – The Doxa SUB 200 Grande Roma Edition
Mar 16, 2026
Time+Tide
New releases from Ōtsuka Lōtec, Doxa, Grand Seiko and more
Mar 15, 2026
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Doxa SUB 750T – A Big Watch That Wears Just Right
Mar 3, 2026
Fratello
Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar
Jan 25, 2026
Fratello
Hands-on With Doxa’s Sub 250T GMT Sharkhunter Vintage
Jan 11, 2026
View all 221 articles

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