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Hands-On: The Ressence Type 11 Hodinkee
Ressence Type 11 3m ago

Hands-On: The Ressence Type 11

At a glance, the Ressence Type 11, which launched earlier this year at Watches and Wonders, might feel like every other Ressence. That's kind of the point. Distinct as it is within the collection, the Type 11 keeps the brand's visual language intact while changing what's underneath it. The biggest change is under the hood—it's the first Ressence to feature the brand's own integrated caliber, replacing the usual combo of an ETA base with Ressence's Orbital Convex System on top. Before we get to more on that, let's take a look at the Type 11's exterior. The 41mm by 11mm case, in grade 5 titanium, continues the trend seen in many of Ressence's recent releases toward more compact cases and feels like an evolution of the Type 9, in a sense. A fully polished, almost tonneau-shaped case features a short 45mm lug-to-lug measurement, while the lack of downturning of the lugs means the case still maintains quite a bit of presence on the wrist. On the Type 11, the lack of a bezel means the dial and crystal extend to the edges of the 41mm diameter. It's this kind of seamless visual effect that has lent models like the Type 1 and the Type 3 a distinctively futuristic look, and here it works very well with these lugs. Water resistance is bumped up to 3 ATM (as opposed to the typically "splash resistant" rating of its non-dive watches). On the dial side, we get the satellite display that Ressence is best known for, showing the hours, running seconds, and a power reserve indicator withi...

Bring a Loupe: A Broken Mulco Chronograph, A Gold Rolex Paul Newman, And A Lot In-Between Hodinkee
Rolex 2h ago

Bring a Loupe: A Broken Mulco Chronograph, A Gold Rolex Paul Newman, And A Lot In-Between

Go Knicks. That is all. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Grand Seiko sold for $29,700; the Patek Philippe 570 is still available; the Certina CD sold for €120; and the LeCoultre Uniplan sold, but the auction house didn't upload the final price. Strays Photo courtesy Goodwill. Here's a Breguet Classique 5907 on Goodwill. Yes, a Goodwill in Minnesota received, as a donation, a solid-gold Breguet with a four-day power reserve, a manual-wind 510DR movement, a full guilloché dial, Breguet hands, and, as if all that weren't enough, the watch comes with its original box. As Warren G advised, mount up. Beyond that heavy-duty watch in the least likely place, this Dodane Diver is very cool, and this Vincent Calabrese (who also made the Corum Golden Bridge) Wandering Jump Hour on Meticulist is incredibly cool. Apparently, it's my time—or a good time generally—to be excited by rectangular-cased non-Reverso JLC models, and if you've been after a Juvenia Architect, this one seems like it'll be gorgeous once it's cleaned up a bit. I don't know anyone who collects Verity watches, but this diver sure looks great with its classic Monnin case and—there's no other word for it—rad hand set. Finally, here's another IYKYK from Zenith, this time a 40T, which has absolutely nothing going for it other than a beautiful, simple case and a dial marking beneath the handset that has to be one of the coolest movement-related badges on any model I'm aware of. In an effort to balance out last...

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Introducing – Timex Goes Upscale with the Atelier Chronograph Automatic M1a Ti Monochrome
Timex Goes Upscale 3h ago

Introducing – Timex Goes Upscale with the Atelier Chronograph Automatic M1a Ti

Timex is one of those names in watchmaking that dominated with radically affordable, mass-produced watches. Like many others, the brand felt the crunch of the quartz crisis, largely shelving mechanical production. It did not have much choice but to embrace quartz. It was a smart move then, but they never truly lost their mechanical watchmaking […]

Ulysse Nardin Debuts a New Generation of Freak X Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Debuts 4h ago

Ulysse Nardin Debuts a New Generation of Freak X

One of the more interesting phenomenons in higher end watches is taking a bold, brash, complex design and deciding to make it simpler and more streamlined. You could argue that this goes against the whole point of such a design, but of course it’s a way for a brand to draw additional, perhaps less adventurous, customers. It also makes for a watch that is more approachable from a financial perspective as well, which is an additional added benefit if you’re trying to grow your customer base of exotic watch buyers used to six figure Super Watches.  The Freak X is maybe my favorite example of this. It begs the impossible question: what is a more sedate Freak, exactly, and why would we want one? I’m a huge Freak fan. It’s importance in the avant-garde and independent watchmaking world simply cannot be underestimated. But, I think we all have to admit, it’s a tough watch to get your arms around in its traditional Freak form. It’s crownless, dial-less, hand-less, and is that rare watch that truly does need a bit of an explainer to the uninitiated. It’s not immediately intuitive. The Freak X attempts to solve this by cloaking the Freak in the guise of a normal watch, at least to the extent that’s even possible.  Ulysse Nardin has just introduced a new generation of the Freak X, coinciding with the Freak’s 25th anniversary. It’s a complement of sorts to the Super Freak, the freakiest Freak ever, unveiled earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. The new Freak X ...

Hands-on – Blending Crafts With The Awake Son Mai Guilloché Main (incl. Video) Monochrome
6h ago

Hands-on – Blending Crafts With The Awake Son Mai Guilloché Main (incl. Video)

Awake Watches made its debut in 2019 by lifelong watch enthusiast and collector Lilian Thibault. The brand quickly found an audience through original, graphic and fun elements such as meteorite dials, collaborations with artists, and contemporary styling and materials, at a very fair price. In 2024, in celebration of the brand’s 5th anniversary, Awake made […]

Studio Underdog’s new beginnings, Patek Philippe’s lasting legacies, and more record-breaking auction results Time+Tide
Studio Underdog s new beginnings Patek 10h ago

Studio Underdog’s new beginnings, Patek Philippe’s lasting legacies, and more record-breaking auction results

As I spend most of my week writing about the latest watch releases, it’s easy to fall into the trap of believing the hobby is all about what’s coming next. But every now and then, a week comes along that reminds you just how many different moving parts make up this interesting little world of … Continued

Discovering The Different Species Of The New Linde Werdelin Oktopus III Fratello
Linde Werdelin 10h ago

Discovering The Different Species Of The New Linde Werdelin Oktopus III

It was an Oktopus that made me a Linde Werdelin fan many moons ago. At a luxury fair in Amsterdam, I represented a watch magazine and got to wear the edgy, sculpted, and outspoken Linde Werdelin Oktopus for a couple of days. I did the brand’s agent a favor by showcasing the watch, but I […] Visit Discovering The Different Species Of The New Linde Werdelin Oktopus III to read the full article.

Introducing – Ochs und Junior Anno Sandblasted, Annual Calendar Minimalism at its Best Monochrome
10h ago

Introducing – Ochs und Junior Anno Sandblasted, Annual Calendar Minimalism at its Best

Traditionally, watchmakers solve horological problems by adding components. Dr Ludwig Oechslin famously does the opposite, stripping mechanisms down to their absolute essentials. It is a philosophy that has defined Ochs und Junior since its inception and one that reaches one of its purest expressions in the Anno annual calendar. The foundational model, the brand’s annual calendar, […]

The Rolex Submariner: Five-Digit Or Six-Digit — Which Side Are You On? Fratello
Rolex Submariner Five-Digit Or Six-Digit 12h ago

The Rolex Submariner: Five-Digit Or Six-Digit — Which Side Are You On?

Even before I got into watches in the second half of the 1990s, I knew what a Rolex Submariner was. It’s such an iconic model, a watch you’d see on the big screen and around you. To me, the Submariner was perhaps the most recognizable Rolex, aside from a Datejust. One of the things that […] Visit The Rolex Submariner: Five-Digit Or Six-Digit — Which Side Are You On? to read the full article.

In the Crosshairs: Dewey Vicknair’s Bespoke Retrograde Watch SJX Watches
16h ago

In the Crosshairs: Dewey Vicknair’s Bespoke Retrograde Watch

Master gunsmith and independent watchmaker Dewey Vicknair returns with a bespoke retrograde hour wristwatch. The American craftsman is a self-taught watch restorer that recently started making timepieces of his own, using just basic tooling. His latest watch was commissioned by a client almost one year ago and the project was completed earlier this month. Initial thoughts There are relatively few artisanal watchmakers still active that limit their output to just a couple of pieces per year. Watchmaking at this scale is not a lucrative proposition, so most independent watchmakers today tend to build for some degree of expansion. This is not the case with Dewey Vicknair, a true artisan who starts with raw sheets of brass and steel and turns the metal into unique timepieces. Along with names like David E. Walter and Jacob Curtis, Dewey Vicknair is one of the few American artisan horologists. His latest delivery is a 39 mm Calatrava-style watch with a fully open-worked dial and endowed with a clever retrograde hour complication. Made at the request of an unnamed collector, the watch features a steel case and is powered by a movement of Mr Vicknair’s own making. The movement in the making. As it was the case with past creations, Mr. Vicknair put together an exhaustive photo essay of his work, which is a recommended read for anyone looking to understand the work required to build a watch from the ground up. Although the look of the watch might not be to everyone’s taste — ...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Blake Z. Rong Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Titanium – 23h ago

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Blake Z. Rong

Our 3 for $5k series is back this week with a new entry from Worn & Wound contributor Blake Z. Rong. Blake is a Brooklyn based writer and while his selections here focus on modern watches, they reflect his personal interest in vintage, time tested designs, but in a playful and spirited way. These are not vintage recreations, necessarily, but reinterpretations of classic ideas, sometimes with a lighthearted twist.  If I could cut my collection down to three watches, I figure that I could someday live the rest of my life a happy man, satisfied only by the essentials and with no horrible combination of discretionary spending and emotional attachment to finite objects to distract me. So far, that has not proven the case. But if a person only needs three watches to truly be fulfilled in any scenario, then here’s what I would do in an alternate realm: three modern watches from brands both known and worthy of being rediscovered, and versatile enough to carry you from the beach to the boardroom. What are watches if not helping us dream of these scenarios?  Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Titanium – $1,025 The irony of wearing a titanium watch is that it is a tremendously difficult material to work with: not only does it stick to machining tools, according to Citizen, but its discarded shavings also have the tendency to catch fire. And when you’ve made a watch with it, it’s so lightweight that it can feel like you’re wearing a piece of plastic. But that didn’t stop Citize...

Photo Report: The 2026 Concorso d'Eleganza Villa d'Este With A. Lange & Söhne Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne 23h ago

Photo Report: The 2026 Concorso d'Eleganza Villa d'Este With A. Lange & Söhne

"It's hard to think of anywhere else on the planet that combines scenic beauty, history, and automotive culture as harmoniously as the Villa d'Este on Lake Como." That's the official program's own description of the Concorso d'Eleganza at Villa d'Este, and after spending a weekend on the shores of Lake Como in the company of A. Lange & Söhne, I'm struggling to beat that. Concorso d'Eleganza, Villa d'Este The Concorso dates back to 1929, and while it paused during the war, it returned in the 1990s and has since become one of the most significant automotive gatherings on earth, with the BMW Group taking on title sponsorship in 2001. Every May, it spreads across Villa d'Este and the neighboring Villa Erba, with pre-war coachwork, Italian icons, and concept cars arranged throughout the terraced gardens and lakeside promenade of what was once a 16th-century cardinal's home. The new Lange Cabaret Tourbillon in Honeygold This edition of the Concorso d'Eleganza Villa d'Este was of particular note for A. Lange & Söhne, as it marked the 15th year that the brand had been a partner, and the brand coincided the event with the announcement of the Honeygold Cabaret Tourbillon. TanTan is your man to learn everything you need to know about that watch here (although I will add that the return of the Cabaret, not only in Honeygold but also with a hacking tourbillon, is a real sight to behold) The connection between Lange and the Concorso runs far deeper than a hospitality tent, as CEO Wilh...

First Look – The New Bovet Récital 31, a Very Intuitive Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Bovet Yesterday

First Look – The New Bovet Récital 31, a Very Intuitive Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar is one of the most fascinating watchmaking complications. It can also be one of the most frustrating. Capable of automatically accounting for irregular month lengths and leap years, it is a mechanical marvel, yet one that often requires patience and caution when adjustments are necessary. With the new Récital 31, Bovet joins […]