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SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Singapore  ·  Est. 2011  ·  News, auctions, complications, Asian market
SJX Watches is a highly regarded watch journalism site founded in Singapore. The publication is known for breaking news on new releases with unmatched speed, detailed technical coverage of complications and movements, and authoritative auction reporting. SJX is often the first English-language source to cover major international releases and has become essential reading for serious collectors across Asia and beyond.
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3,070 articles  ·  Page 1 of 103
In the Crosshairs: Dewey Vicknair’s Bespoke Retrograde Watch SJX Watches
16h ago

In the Crosshairs: Dewey Vicknair’s Bespoke Retrograde Watch

Master gunsmith and independent watchmaker Dewey Vicknair returns with a bespoke retrograde hour wristwatch. The American craftsman is a self-taught watch restorer that recently started making timepieces of his own, using just basic tooling. His latest watch was commissioned by a client almost one year ago and the project was completed earlier this month. Initial thoughts There are relatively few artisanal watchmakers still active that limit their output to just a couple of pieces per year. Watchmaking at this scale is not a lucrative proposition, so most independent watchmakers today tend to build for some degree of expansion. This is not the case with Dewey Vicknair, a true artisan who starts with raw sheets of brass and steel and turns the metal into unique timepieces. Along with names like David E. Walter and Jacob Curtis, Dewey Vicknair is one of the few American artisan horologists. His latest delivery is a 39 mm Calatrava-style watch with a fully open-worked dial and endowed with a clever retrograde hour complication. Made at the request of an unnamed collector, the watch features a steel case and is powered by a movement of Mr Vicknair’s own making. The movement in the making. As it was the case with past creations, Mr. Vicknair put together an exhaustive photo essay of his work, which is a recommended read for anyone looking to understand the work required to build a watch from the ground up. Although the look of the watch might not be to everyone’s taste — ...

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The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 50 Years of the Nautilus SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 50 Years Yesterday

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 50 Years of the Nautilus

The Patek Philippe Museum turns 25 this year, but the Geneva institution has bigger things on its mind. Open now through early next year, 1976 – 2026 Nautilus 50th Anniversary is a thematic exhibition that explores the history of the brand’s emblematic sports watch. The exhibit will showcase key references that have defined the trajectory of the Nautilus, which was designed by Gérald Genta and launched in 1976, at a time when the idea of a steel watch was generally thought to be beneath a brand like Patek Philippe. The success of the Nautilus would ultimately validate the brand’s belief that design and craftsmanship could transcend mere material, and helped accelerate Genta’s storied career as a designer. Naturally, the exhibition will feature each of the four 50th anniversary references released this year including the ref. 5610P. Past visitors will observe the exhibit is located on the museum’s top floor, which has been transformed with a temporary 1970s-inspired makeover to give the Nautilus its proper setting. Exhibition details The exhibition is included with general admission to the Patek Philippe Museum, which is open Tuesday through Friday, 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm, Saturday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm, and Sunday from 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm. The anniversary exhibit is scheduled to run until early 2027. Timed tickets can be purchased online, and advance reservation is recommended.  

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Hands On: Tudor Monarch SJX Watches
Tudor Monarch Tudor marks Yesterday

Hands On: Tudor Monarch

Tudor marks its 100th birthday by reviving the Monarch with a completely new look — one that captures the spirit of the brand’s founding decade, reinterpreted for the 21st century. The Monarch manages to be both sporty and dressy, with a distinctive design and upmarket build that proves Tudor has aspirations beyond the Black Bay. Initial thoughts Tudor turns 100 stronger than it’s ever been. The brand that once trafficked in cheaper versions of Rolex models can now bring compelling products like this to market with impressive regularity. That said, the brand tends to be at its best when it comes to sports watches like the Black Bay — what Tudor calls its ‘classic watches’ have had less market impact. In this context, the Monarch represents a major step forward for Tudor. It’s dressy without looking derivative, and robust enough for everyday wear. In short, the Monarch rules. Image – Tudor Much of Tudor’s current collection takes heavy inspiration from its deep back catalogue. That isn’t the case for the Monarch, which shares nothing with the 1990s and 2000s Monarchs save for the name and shield at 12 o’clock. Instead, the Monarch’s design celebrates the earliest years of Tudor — the 1920s — which was a transitional period in which wristwatch production had not yet equalled that of pocket watches. Watchmakers at the time weren’t yet sure what kinds of wristwatches people wanted, and the era is marked by expressive and experimental designs. Beca...

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Ulysse Nardin Debuts Freak X Second Generation SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Debuts Freak X Second 2 days ago

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Freak X Second Generation

The second-generation Ulysse Nardin (UN) Freak X proves that good things can come in small(er) packages, with an all-new micro-rotor calibre powering the Freak’s signature ‘flying carousel’ architecture. The new movement debuts in a smaller 41 mm steel case with an interchangeable strap system. Initial thoughts There’s a lot to like about the updated Freak X. It retains the wandering tourbillon-style architecture that UN describes as a flying carousel, powered by an all-new micro-rotor calibre that’s been upgraded with the brand’s DiamonSil escapement package. It’s also noticeably smaller than the outgoing model, while boasting superior water resistance thanks in part to the collection’s first screw-down crown. Strap options have been expanded thanks to an interchangeable strap system that includes a stainless steel bracelet. These upgrades come with a modest increase to retail pricing, which starts at US$41,200 — essentially the same price as one of the special edition versions of the first-generation Freak X. Some will mourn the ‘downgrade’ from titanium to steel, but that’s a relatively minor issue given the reduced case size, and furthermore the release of titanium options in the future seems all but guaranteed. Smaller but better When the Freak debuted 25 years ago, it shocked the industry with its novel construction, which integrated the entire going train and escapement into an enormous minutes hand. The Freak X keeps the overall look mostly ...

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California Chronograph: J.N. Shapiro Unveils Infinity Series Radiant SJX Watches
Ming 3 days ago

California Chronograph: J.N. Shapiro Unveils Infinity Series Radiant

California-based independent watchmaker J.N. Shapiro has unveiled the Infinity Series Radiant chronograph, the brand’s first complicated model available to the general public. Like the special order series released last year, the Radiant is built around a well-known La Joux-Perret monopusher calibre, but this time the watch features a tantalum case and choice of two dial configurations. Initial thoughts The Infinity Series is how it all started for J.N. Shapiro, and while the southern California-based watchmaker subsequently introduced the Resurgence — taking ‘made in America’ to the extreme — the Infinity Series makes use of third-party movements to make the brand’s inventive hand-turned guilloche dials more accessible. The Radiant chronograph takes after the 14-piece limited edition unveiled last year for the Boston-based ‘Escapement’ collector group. The Radiant is functionally identical, using the same La Joux-Perret cal. 5000 monopusher chronograph movement. But while the Escapement chronograph featured a movement that had been customised for fellow Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA) member Ming, the Radiant gets its own anthracite-coated livery complete with the brand’s ‘infinity weave’ logo. The movement itself has its own interesting backstory, but the handmade dials and weighty tantalum case do more to help justify the pricing of US$35,900. By the standards of mass market watchmaking this is a steep ask for a straightforward complication,...

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Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat Returns with 70-Day Power Reserve SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Twin Beat Returns 3 days ago

Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat Returns with 70-Day Power Reserve

First launched in 2019, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar remains one of the most fascinating watches in its category. Thanks to a movement with a secondary, low-power mode, the Twin Beat has an extended power reserve measured in months – all contained in a reasonably sized, 41 mm case. The original version of the Twin Beat was complex and finicky. Now Vacheron Constantin (VC) has refined and upgraded the movement, resulting in a second generation model with an extra five days of power reserve in Standby mode – which means the watch will run for 70 days. Initial thoughts I described the original Twin Beat as a “genuinely interesting, albeit pricey, watch”. Even though several years have passed, the Twin Beat remains genuinely interesting. It is a novel concept executed in a sophisticated manner. In contrast to majority of ultra-long power reserve watches, the Twin Beat is ordinarily sized. I am certainly glad VC has revived the concept and made it better. The original probably had a few kinks in the movement that made production difficult so the first generation never really made it to market in significant numbers. The kinks have been resolved with the new version, which is probably also more robust from a usability point of view. The same holds true today of the price, though given the overall price index of the market, the new Twin Beat is arguably less expensive in relative terms. The first generation model Two running modes On ...

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Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain SJX Watches
Ming from 3 days ago

Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain

The fusee and chain system is one of those terms in high horology parlance that instantly elevates the status of a given watch. And yet few appreciate the elegance and subtle complexities of this horological contraption that surprisingly predates the invention of the hairspring itself. The need for constant torque A high-performance oscillating system requires a somewhat constant power source in order to keep it swinging consistently. This issue relates to isochronism and the insufficiencies of real-world oscillators. For a watch, this means that its precision is, to a degree, dependent on how constant the torque reaching the escapement is. This is not as easy as one might think. The mainspring stores potential energy in its wound coils, which it then slowly feeds into the gear train as the barrel unwinds. Because of how the system is built, and due to physics-related constraints, the power coming from the mainspring barrel is all but constant. Ideally, the torque would be linearly decreasing — meaning that the slope of the barrel torque is directly proportional to the arming angle. Coiled mainspring inside a barrel. When a mainspring barrel is fully wound, the torque it feeds into the going train is maximal, sometimes causing the balance wheel to swing too wide and over-bank. As the mainspring unwinds, the torque stabilises to a steadily declining rate. But as the movement enters its last hours of power reserve, the torque from the barrel decreases considerably and more...

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Obituary: Philippe Stern, Pivotal Leader of Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Philippe Stern who served 4 days ago

Obituary: Philippe Stern, Pivotal Leader of Patek Philippe

Philippe Stern, who served as general director and later president of Patek Philippe from 1977 to 2009, died yesterday at the age of 88. Under his stewardship, the Geneva manufacture was transformed from a small, workshop-scattered operation into the global benchmark for fine watchmaking, a position it holds to this day. He was the third generation of the Stern family to lead the company. His grandfather Charles, alongside his brother Jean, had acquired Patek Philippe from insolvency in 1932 from their position as the firm’s trusted dial supplier. His father Henri had built the company’s modern international distribution network and established the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York, laying the commercial foundations on which Philippe would build. Father and son, Henri and Philippe Stern. Image – Patek Philippe Philippe Stern became managing director in 1977, at the height of the quartz crisis. The timing could not have been more demanding. Swiss watch industry employment was collapsing, from roughly 90,000 workers to a fraction of that figure within a few years, as electronic timekeeping rendered the mechanical watch commercially marginal almost overnight. Many established manufacturers collapsed, merged, or abandoned mechanical production entirely. Stern’s response defined his presidency. He kept the tooling, retained his engineers, and committed Patek Philippe irrevocably to mechanical watchmaking at the precise moment the industry consensus ran in the opposit...

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Arnold & Son’s London in Lume SJX Watches
Arnold & Son s London 6 days ago

Arnold & Son’s London in Lume

John Arnold was originally a pioneering English watchmaker of the 18th century. So it is fitting that his namesake brand resurrected in Switzerland is creating his home city – with a clever twist. The Arnold & Son HM London Skyline seemingly depicts the British capital of yesteryear on mother-of-pearl, but at night the dial lights up with modern-day landmarks rendered in Super-Luminova. The two-hand watch is a run of 20 pieces for The Limited Edition, a London-based retailer specialising in independent and niche brands. Initial thoughts Today’s Arnold & Son (A&S;) has nothing to do with the original firm aside from the name; the watches are Swiss while its parent company is Japanese. The HM London Skyline, however, is a simple and appealing nod to the brand’s history. The use of lume to create an “Easter Egg” of sorts on the dial is smart and sets this apart from the typical landscape dials. Though the dial is not quite top of the line metiers d’art, it is an appealing offering in this segment. Mechanically, the HM is also credible as Arnold & Son’s sister company is La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker that supplies a good number of brands. The A&S;1001 movement inside is solid proprietary calibre that borrows from an existing architecture but transforms it into a movement with a four-day running time. London landmarks The London skyline is depicted on mother of pearl. It shows Tower Bridge on a cloudy day, with many of London’s historical landmarks visi...

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In-Depth: Patek Philippe Calibre 89 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calibre 89 Jun 12, 2026

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Calibre 89

In 1989, Geneva’s storied watchmaker unveiled the most complicated watch ever made – the Patek Philippe Calibre 89. The genesis of the Calibre 89 arguably started almost a century before with a watch made in Besançon, the historical heart of French watchmaking. In 1977, the Association Française des Amateurs d’Horlogerie Ancienne (AFAHA) published the first issue of its journal Horlogerie Ancienne. The watch on the cover was the Leroy 01. The caption on the inside front page read, “Montre Leroy 01, la plus compliquée du monde” – “The most complicated watch in the world”. Inside, on page 15, a short article made the case: the Leroy 01, completed in 1904 by the Parisian firm of Louis Leroy for the Portuguese collector António Augusto de Carvalho Monteiro, held a title that no other timepiece had successfully disputed. In Geneva, the claim was noted. The first issue of Horlogerie Ancienne of 1977. Image – SJX composite/AFAHA Two years later, in early June 1979, Philippe Stern was at his desk in Patek Philippe’s offices on the rue du Rhône when Max Studer, the firm’s technical director, came in for what the records describe as a routine meeting. The 150th anniversary of the manufacture was a decade away. Among the ideas being considered to celebrate the occasion was a reproduction of the Henry Graves Jr. Supercomplication, the watch Patek had built in 1932, with its twenty-four complications, that had served as the benchmark of mechanical ambition ev...

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Max-imum cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian” SJX Watches
MB&F; Jun 10, 2026

Max-imum cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian”

After more than 20 years, avante garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. It combines a Horological Machine with a high-end shaped movement, flying tourbillon the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a designer. That Maertens did the har...

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MAXimum Cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian” is a Robot Watch-Clock SJX Watches
MB&F; Jun 10, 2026

MAXimum Cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian” is a Robot Watch-Clock

After more than 20 years, avant-garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. The HM12 is a Horological Machine containing a high-end shaped movement featuring a flying tourbillon, nestled in the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and founder Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a...

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Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition Jun 9, 2026

Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai

Making its debut in Shanghai, Oyster Story is an all-encompassing, immersive exhibition to mark the centenary of the Rolex Oyster water-resistant watch case, arguably the foundational achievement of the world’s largest luxury watch brand. Oyster Story takes place at June 10-28 at the West Bund Dome Art Center, a former cement factory in a district that was once an industrial area but is now being transformed into an arts and culture hub. The large, domed-shaped building on the banks of the Huangpu River covers almost 100,000 square feet, allowing for a comprehensive journey into the Oyster and Rolex history. The exhibition includes historical Rolex watches, including the actual timepieces worn by explorers and adventurers on landmark expeditions. The watches on show comprise those owned by Rolex “as well as privately owned watches kindly loaned for the event” according to the brand. Also on show is an in-depth look at modern-day Rolex watchmaking. “Cases, bezels, bracelets, dials, materials, movements: every stage of watchmaking is showcased here”, allowing a look into arguably the most advanced high-end-industrial watch manufacturing in Switzerland. The brand’s advances in timekeeping are also illustrated by the atomic clock developed by Rolex. Amongst other things it serves as a reference clock for Rolex watchmaking. Oyster Story is free to enter and open to the public.  

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Jun 9, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink”

Patek Phillippe’s 2026 collection is diverse, but one of my favourites is paradoxically one of the least novel: the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016 with a metallic “sand beige” dial and rose gold case. This is merely a new dial for a model that’s been in the collection for 20 years so it is not genuinely novel – though the movement has been upgraded and improved over that period – but it is appealing. The new ref. 5396R is handsome, and importantly, subtly evocative of vintage “pink on pink” watches, which pairs well with its traditional layout. Initial thoughts For anyone who likes old-school Patek Philippe design, the new ref. 5396R is likely the best looking annual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Both the colour and style are classic with a capital “C”. Ironically, it is perhaps the least interesting because neither the design nor movement are new, but this illustrates the fact that the appeal of a watch is more than just intrinsic feature and specs. Good looks, however, come at a price. The new ref. 5396R costs CHF54,000, or about US$67,000. It’s expensive but not outrageously so compared to the competition. For example, it’s about 5% pricier than the recent Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar, which is a better watch in most tangible respects, but not quite as pretty as the Patek Philippe. The premium pricing reflects Patek Philippe’s privilege as it has both the status and history to price as it desires – which the brand deserves. But ...

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Marc Newson Styles Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Travel Alarm Clock SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Travel Alarm Clock Jun 8, 2026

Marc Newson Styles Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Travel Alarm Clock

Longtime collaborator of Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) – and designer of the Ferrari Luce – Marc Newson recently helped created one of the brand’s under-the-radar new launches for 2026, the Memovox Travel Clock. The clock combines Mr Newson’s trademark functional, geometric style with JLC’s signature alarm that buzzes loudly enough to be an actual alarm. Notably, the Memovox clock is powered by a brand-new movement, rather than an existing wristwatch movement. Equipped with some clever features like a peripheral crown, the manual-wind cal. 256 inside has a useful 12-day power reserve. The Memovox Travel Clock is a reassuringly old-school analogue travel gadget, but priced like haute horlogerie at a little over US$30,000. Initial thoughts Even though an integrated-bracelet sports watch was JLC’s headline debut at Watches & Wonders, the Memovox Travel Clock is arguably more interesting. To start with the Memovox clock marries a historical concept – people actually travelled with small clocks back in the day – with Mr Newson’s useful, distinctive design. Moreover, the design is backed up by a new movement that incorporates clever functions that integrate into the design, like the crown-less case. Though a 69 mm travel clock is not exactly practical in the context of modern travel, this is certainly a cool object I would love to have on a desk in a hotel. But the appeal is mitigated by the price (which means the hotel would have to be at least a Four Seasons). Despi...

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Independent Highlights at Marteau & Co.’s Summer Sale SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2524 Jun 5, 2026

Independent Highlights at Marteau & Co.’s Summer Sale

Online-only auctioneer Marteau & Co returns for its third sale, The Heat Wave. which opens at noon Geneva time on June 10, continuing with its focus on independent watchmaking. Marteau & Co was founded just last year by a duo including industry veteran Arthur Touchot, who spent several years as a journalist followed by a stint at a prominent auction house. The Swiss auctioneer sets itself apart with its intriguing “Maker’s Fee” concept, which rewards the maker of the timepiece with 3% of the hammer price for each watch sold, allowing a brand to benefit from the appreciation of its products. While artists’ resale rights, or droit de suite, is far from a new concept, and has been codified into law in the European Union and United Kingdom, Marteau & Co’s approach is the first instance of its application in watchmaking. Lot 6 – Voutilainen Decimal Repeater Regulator piece unique Kari Voutilainen needs no introduction, but this watch does as it is, like all Voutilainen minute repeaters, a unique piece. This example left the Voutilainen workshop in 2024, cased in 38 mm of unusual 4N gold, which sits between red and yellow gold, while the hands and dial, as you’d expect from any Voutilainen watch – excellent, but with a chiming twist. During a survey of vintage repeating wristwatches you’ll realize that many only have two hands. If you compared the movement of, say, a Patek Philippe ref. 2524 with a seconds hand to one without, the reason becomes clear. The two ...

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TAG Heuer’s Monaco Gets a La Fabrique du Temps Tune-Up SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton LFT Instead Jun 5, 2026

TAG Heuer’s Monaco Gets a La Fabrique du Temps Tune-Up

The recent management changes at TAG Heuer and the wider LVMH Watch Division have given birth to a surprising collaboration: the Monaco Speed 12, an avant-garde take on TAG Heuer’s iconic square wristwatch that’s powered by the Spin Time movement made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Instead of cubes, hours are indicated by a dozen rotating pistons – the concept is a homage to the V12 engine – that seemingly float in a concentric ring around the dial. Inside the titanium case is a self-winding movement that retains the signature recessed frosting of LFT. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has been having a good run with technically interesting watches – the Monaco Evergraph is a recent example – and the Speed 12 continues the momentum. Admittedly, the Spin Time movement is not in-house, but it is surprisingly coherent despite the drastically different characters of TAG Heuer and Louis Vuitton. The Spin Time complication translates well into TAG Heuer’s automotive-inspired style, both in terms of concept and execution. Also in its favour is the restyled Monaco case that TAG Heuer has employed in other recent launches. Thought still a little chunky, it is sleeker and more ergonomic than earlier iterations of the design. The price tag of US$87,000 is similar to that of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time Air, which unfortunately makes this just a little expensive. Given the case material and TAG Heuer’s traditional price focus, a price that’s 15-20% lower would ...

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Ming Taps J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 Lightning SJX Watches
Ming Taps J.N Shapiro Jun 5, 2026

Ming Taps J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 Lightning

Ming has joined forces with J.N. Shapiro for a decidedly contemporary twist on traditional guilloche. The 37.06 Lightning proves its possible to combine disparate design languages cohesively, and to offer meaningful hand craftsmanship for less than five figures, with a few sensible trade-offs. Initial thoughts Ming and J.N. Shapiro are two of the three members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a loosely affiliated coalition of brands that also includes Fleming. The Lightning is not the first time that Ming and J.N. Shapiro have worked together — they co-developed a tantalum bracelet designed to fit watches from each brand — but it is the first time they’ve collaborated on a wristwatch. And while J.N. Shapiro is best known for more traditional designs and an obsessive focus on in-house production in the United States, the brand’s expertise in guilloche clearly translates beyond its own house style. The radiant polychromatic dial looks right at home in a minimalist Ming. The artisanal dial makes intuitive sense paired with Ming’s typical look, especially considering the lume plots and brand logo are engraved on the underside of the sapphire crystal. This approach means the dial does not have to be touched post-heat treatment, and the shimmering guilloche pattern can extend edge to edge without interruption. The Lightning is priced at a relatively accessible CHF6,750, a price point that entails a few trade-offs elsewhere in the watch — namely the move...

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Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Jun 4, 2026

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty

The Girard-Perregaux (GP) Laureato Fifty collection adds four new references in crowd-pleasing configurations. The original 39 mm size is joined by a compact 36 mm option, available with our without diamonds, while a range of expensively made dials are on offer from solid 18k rose gold to deep blue flinqué enamel. The first four permanent members of the Laureato Fifty collection are powered by the brand’s latest automatic calibre, the GP4800, which illustrates GP’s capabilities as a manufacture. Initial thoughts Last year’s launch of the Laureato Fifty felt promising, but it was clearly just an opening act. GP is a brand intent on resurgence, and the Laureato Fifty represents an important part of the brand’s future. In this context, the four new Laureato Fifty references — in 2 sizes and 3 popular colourways — feel somewhat inevitable, though the high level of execution is anything but. Under the leadership of Marc Michel-Amadry GP seems to be building momentum in the right way — by emphasising what makes the brand unique. Specifically, its design icons like the Laureato and Three Gold Bridges, and its capabilities as a manufacture. In a few short months, the brand has delivered in each of these categories. The Laureato was one of the original luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet, and helped establish the now-familiar format. Today, however, the field is crowded, a fact that invites comparison. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak comes to mind first,...

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Tudor Scales Down Black Bay Chrono with the “Bumblebee” SJX Watches
Tudor Scales Down Black Bay Jun 3, 2026

Tudor Scales Down Black Bay Chrono with the “Bumblebee”

Tudor’s sports chronograph offers one of the strongest values in its category, but it was never compact. In a surprising move, Tudor has managed to rework the model into the Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”, which is just 39 mm in diameter and a bit over 13 mm high. The new dimensions make this substantially trimmer than its predecessor, yet the “Bumblebee” still employs the high-spec MT5813 movement. Initial thoughts The “Bumblebee” resolves one of the key criticisms of the Black Bay Chrono. Earlier iterations of the model were appealing in many ways, ranging from value to movement, but a little chunky. The latest model is almost ideal in terms of dimensions, an accomplishment made all the more impressive as the case still contains the MT5813 movement, which has excellent technical credentials but not slimness. With a price tag of CHF5,500, the “Bumblebee” continues to be an obvious value proposition. That said, the bright yellow dial might not be for everyone (personally I prefer the pink or blue prior models), but the new case size is spot on. Given past practice, however, additional dial colours are probably in the works, so this case size will likely be available in more colours eventually. Bright but not bigger The “Bumblebee” gets its name from the high contrast dial that’s a bright yellow matched with black registers. The dial markings, hands, and indices are also black, as is the aluminium bezel insert. While yellow is an unusual colour for...

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Hands On: Rolex Yacht-Master II SJX Watches
Rolex Yacht-Master II Rolex commands Jun 3, 2026

Hands On: Rolex Yacht-Master II

Rolex commands a lot of attention during Watches & Wonders, and this year much of the focus was on the enamel-dialled Daytona — a high-tech, high-priced, off-catalogue variant of one of the hottest watches in the industry. But the brand’s other chronograph, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II, also got a much-needed — but still unexpected — makeover, transforming it from an ugly duckling into a compelling chronograph for the contrarian collector. Initial thoughts Despite the pre-event teaser posted to social media, the launch of an updated Yacht-Master II still managed to feel like a surprise. The original Yacht-Master II debuted in the pre-financial crisis exuberance of 2007 and exemplified the tastes of the era, being something of the Royal Oak Offshore of the Rolex line-up. It was big and brash but offered enough technical substance to stay intellectually relevant, even as the model lost enthusiasm in collector circles before its discontinuation in 2024. The updated Yacht-Master II improves on the original in every way, dialing back the ostentation and doubling down on the technical merit. The new Yacht-Master II is available in stainless steel or full 18k yellow gold, and offers a decent value proposition in either configuration given the technical sophistication of the calibre and the high quality of make. As the standard-bearer of the luxury watch industry, Rolex could charge more than it does and the brand’s restraint is notable. The full-gold ref. 1266...

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A Petite, Powerful Movement Inside Blancpain’s Marilyn Monroe Watch SJX Watches
Blancpain s Marilyn Monroe Watch Jun 3, 2026

A Petite, Powerful Movement Inside Blancpain’s Marilyn Monroe Watch

A hundred years after Marilyn Monroe’s birth, Blancpain is marking the occasion with the Ladybird Tribute Marilyn, seven watches modelled on a vintage Blancpain wristwatch once owned by Monroe herself. Rectangular in form and set with diamonds, the Ladybird Tribute is typical of 1940s style, but the movement inside is surprising. The cal. 510 inside is a tiny movement by modern standards, but is nonetheless high-spec. The calibre manages a respectable 50-hour power reserve and sophisticated, skeletonised construction, underlining the high quality mechanics typical of Blancpain. Initial thoughts We don’t normally feature such watches but the cal. 510 is worth a pointing out, even if it’s not a brand-new movement. Blancpain’s technical know-how was on full display with last year’s outsized Grande Double Sonnerie, but the cal. 510 proves the brand can still do a lot in a very small space. Most tiny ladies’ watches contain pedestrian movements, so the cal. 510 stands out. To start with, it’s a form movement conceived to fit the case. And while small, the movement incorporates a variety of notable features, including a free-sprung balance, longish power reserve, and appealing finishing. Notably, it is much more sophisticated than newer form movements from competing brands (with more expensive watches). The watch itself is retro, which is unsurprising given it’s a remake of Monroe’s original. While it might seem a little old fashioned, this will do well as a co...

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Parmigiani’s Carillon Tourbillon Caps Three Decades SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier introduces Jun 2, 2026

Parmigiani’s Carillon Tourbillon Caps Three Decades

Parmigiani Fleurier introduces the Carillon Tourbillon to mark three decades of the brand, and to celebrate how it all began — by restoring antiques. Inspired by an early 19th-century watch founder Michel Parmigiani brought back to life decades ago, the watch repeats the minutes on four serpentine gongs with exposed repeater work, and a tourbillon, and somehow manages to fit 12 days of power reserve into a case that’s just 41.6 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm thick. Initial thoughts My first thought on seeing the movement was that it looked like something from the early 19th century, with exposed repeater work and serpentine gongs. That was, of course, the intent. In 1980, Michel Parmigiani became a steward of Maurice Yves Sandoz’s collection of antique watches and automata. There he worked on a wandering hours quarter repeater signed Perrin Frères, which inspired the present watch. The Perrin Frères repeater that inspired the Carillon Tourbillon. Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Modern collectors have relatively little interest in this genre, and a nearly identical watch — this time signed Vaucher Frères, the firm after which the modern Vaucher company is named — sold for only CHF21,000 at Christie’s two years ago. But the watch’s esoteric design and unique story made it ripe for revival. But of course it’s not an exact replica. This modern homage is a keyless winding lever watch, while the inspiration was key wind with a cylinder escapement. As a pleasant surp...

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Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G Jun 2, 2026

Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G

The standout piece from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was certainly the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The astronomy-oriented watch was a decade in the making and compared to its more conservative predecessor, the ref. 6102, the new model benefits from a complete makeover, both aesthetically and mechanically.  Hidden within the 47 mm white gold case is an unusual component that didn’t get the attention it deserved at launch: a butterfly-shaped compliant cam-and-rack mechanism. The system is used for the sunrise/sunset indicators and proves Patek Philippe’s almost savant-like mastery of compliant micro-mechanics.  The Celestial ref. 6105 is pictured showing a sunrise of around 8 AM, and a sunset time of about 7 PM. Note the date ring pulls double duty as the sunrise/sunset scale. Fixing something that may be broken Although still quite rare compared to other complications, there are more sunrise/sunset watches on the market than seemingly ever before. They mostly follow the same basic construction: a cam that works with a follower. As the year progresses, the cam slowly turns, displacing the follower. In pairs, such systems are used to show both the sunrise and sunset times, which synchronously vary throughout the year.  So why fix something that doesn’t appear to be broken? Or more specifically, why use an elaborate compliant system when a basic cam and follower is a fixture in classical watchmaking? European patent EP3740821B1 granted to ...

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SJX Podcast: Inside Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Jun 1, 2026

SJX Podcast: Inside Roventa-Henex

For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Roventa-Henex chief executive Jérôme Biard at the company’s secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes. The discussion covers the emergence of the ‘micro-brand’ (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Moser’s Endeavour is a Complicated Chronograph SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie expands Jun 1, 2026

Moser’s Endeavour is a Complicated Chronograph

H. Moser & Cie. expands its selection of chronographs with the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, adding convenient complications to the impressive chronograph calibre found in the Streamliner collection. Despite the presence of a chronograph and a second time zone display, the Endeavour Flyback could easily pass for a time-only watch at a glance thanks to its central minutes counter and discreet dual-time disc. Initial thoughts The central-minutes chronograph is an inherently appealing format. Not only does it reduce dial clutter by eliminating a sub-dial, but it improves legibility by allowing the elapsed minutes to be read on the same 60-minute scale the eye is accustomed to from reading the time. I’m also a fan of the AgenGraphe platform that underpins the HMC 730 movement. The movement architecture — which has now been around for almost a decade — reveals fresh thinking about how a horizontal clutch can work, and the visual layout is appropriately dynamic for a high-end watch with plenty of visible springs and levers, many of which are pleasingly thin in form. All that is to say the Endeavour Flyback has a lot going for it even before considering Moser’s minimalist aesthetic choices. As we’ve come to expect from the brand, the dial is sterile — lacking a brand logo or wordmark — and there’s a gradient fumé finish on the central disc that indicates the second time zone. These details are enough to mark the watch as a Moser product, which sp...

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Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 29, 2026

Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season heads east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. In addition to a strong roster of complications from big brands, and interesting indies as usual, there is a strong showing from the more artistic side of watchmaking spanning gemsetting, enamelling, hand engraving, and wood marquetry. Lot 1010 – Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721 – 1790) was an extraordinarily skilled automata maker from La Chaux-de-Fonds, his most famous work being The Writer, which can write up to 40 pre-programmed characters, dipping his quill into an ink pot at intervals. Today, Swatch Group uses his name for métiers d’art watches and automata; this watch is both. The onyx dial adds lapidary into the mix. It is a two-train watch — turning the crown one direction winds the movement, while the other winds the animation, which is tripped by a button in the crown and runs for an unusually long four minutes on a full wind. The koi swims around the dial, moving its tail back and forth and dives slightly to pass underneath the floating foliage (which is made of gold). A floating lotus flower opposite the koi acts as a visual counterweight. The petals clutch a yellow sapphire — or is it a red ruby, or a blue sapphire? It changes as the flower passes under the leaves or dial. Finally, while the koi is cavorting around the dial, the dragonfly is hard at work keeping track of the movement’s 68-hour power reserve. That movement...

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Kollokium’s Latest is Tropical and Topographical. SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 54 May 29, 2026

Kollokium’s Latest is Tropical and Topographical.

Kollokium returns with the Projekt 02 Variant C, hot on the heels of the A and B variants. For this third edition, Kollokium is bringing some colour to the (beach) party, rendering its topographic dial in a striking shade of Mediterranean blue. Initial thoughts Kollokium — an independent micro-brand from Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer and Amr Sindi — continues to find ways to rethink dial and case construction at an affordable price. As its name suggests, the Variant C is the third edition of its second model — Projekt 02 — which introduced the topographical motif last year.  True to form, Kollokium is once again letting the dial do all the talking and has left the Variant C unsigned, save for the model abbreviation cast into the case band.  Like another independent brand with Manuel Emch at the helm, Kollokium keeps a tight leash on pricing. As a result, the Variant C is priced the same as prior editions, at CHF3,666.66. It’s a limited edition of 299 pieces, which means it will be less common than similarly priced watches like the Tudor Black Bay 54 in ‘Lagoon Blue.’ Of course, cross-shopping a Kollokium against something like the technically advanced Tudor feels a little like missing the forest for the trees. The appeal of the Projekt 02 Variant C lies in its three-dimensional design and unusual textures — on these grounds, there are few alternatives. The Variant C can be pre-ordered starting today for Kollokium subscribers, and will be available to the ...

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Visiting Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Longines May 28, 2026

Visiting Roventa-Henex

Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex (Roventa), he needs to be. The historic manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes builds watches for dozens of watch brands — some are internet-native ‘micro-brands’ while others are historic names with 19th-century roots. Naturally, few of the firm’s customers choose to reveal this arrangement, preferring the unstated implication of in-house expertise. We went inside this secretive manufacture to see a different side of the Swiss watch industry. Roventa-Henex CEO Jérôme Biard in his office in Tavannes. A short history of Roventa-Henex To better understand Roventa, it’s worth examining the history of watchmaking in Tavannes, a small village in the canton of Bern just 16 km from Biel/Bienne. Watchmaking came to Tavannes relatively late — in the 1860s — nearly two centuries after the first Swiss watches were made. Despite its late start, Tavannes quickly became a major centre of industrial watchmaking in the 1890s when Henri Sandoz — with the backing of two prominent families from La Chaux-de-Fonds — opened an industrialised factory based on the American model of production, complete with the latest American machine tools. By 1905, Tavannes Watch Co.’s factory employed more than 600 workers, making it Switzerland’s third-largest watch factory after Longines and Omega. By 1914 its staff had doubled, and the factory was producing more than 3,000 watches per day. Tav...

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Albishorn’s Latest Chronograph is an X-Ray SJX Watches
May 28, 2026

Albishorn’s Latest Chronograph is an X-Ray

Specialising in affordable, “imaginary vintage” chronographs, Albishorn has added a twist to its military-inspired Type 10. At a distance, the Type X-Graph resembles yet another pilot’s chronograph with a black, textured dial, but up close it reveals a translucent polycarbonate dial that provides a peek at the skeletonised base plate of the movement. Inspired by 1930s acrylic-covered timepieces, the polycarbonate dial is in a gradient-grey tint, giving it a darker finish towards the edges. While the movement is mechanically identical to its predecessor, the calibre has been skeletonised to maximise the “X-ray” effect. Initial thoughts At first glance, the X-Graph appears little different from its predecessors, but up close it is noticeably more interesting. It’s essentially a twist on a skeleton watch – it’s clearly a no-frills, military-style watch, but with a see-through dial that reveals the open-worked movement. The X-Ray is still “imaginary vintage”, but with more imagination, underlining Albishorn founder Sebastien Chaulmontet’s unique take on watches that combines a historical perspective and  unusual twists. This is born from his keen interest in vintage chronographs – he wrote a book on the subject – while also being head of research and development at Sellita (Albishorn is a side project, akin to a hobby). The brand’s catalogue now encompasses many variations of the single-button chronograph, but the X-Graph stands out as one of the m...

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