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Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300A Sep 29, 2026

Takeaways from the Record-Breaking Rolex Daytona Auction

In just a couple of weeks, Rolex and Phillips pulled off the near-impossible: a record-setting auction where the unique Daytona “Four Seasons” set sold for £37.3 million, equivalent to US$49.5 million. The sum is the largest tally ever for a charity watch auction of any sort, and also surpasses the US$31 million achieved by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in 2019 – which was admittedly a single watch. All of the proceeds from the sale of the “Four Seasons” go to charities founded by Roger Federer and Leonardo DiCaprio, global celebrities and Rolex “Testimonees” who lent star power to the evening, which took place on September 28, the day after the Laver Cup that Mr Federer attended. The venue was the Raffles London, perhaps the latest and greatest hotel in the British capital, a city with no shortage of grand hotels. Reputedly the most expensive hotel project in the city’s history, having cost some £1.5 billion, the colonial building was once home to the British Ministry of Defence. The four Daytonas were on display in a room that appeared to be a basement bunker. The lavishly rebuilt interiors of the “Old War Office” were a fitting venue for the record-breaking evening, which was populated by a mix of celebrities, including Mick Jagger and Jon Bon Jovi, as well as many anonymous but well-heeled watch collectors who are clients of Phillips. Some of the world’s most significant watch collectors were in the room. Despite the short time...

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Patek Philippe s steel Grandmaster Chime Sep 29, 2026

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Set Shatters Auction Record

When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...

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Patek Philippe s steel Grandmaster Chime Sep 29, 2026

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Achieves Record Price

When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...

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Girard-Perregaux Sep 29, 2026

Visiting Manufacture La Joux-Perret

Manufacture La Joux-Perret (MLJP) has become an increasingly important supplier to the growing ranks of micro-brands and independent watchmakers, offering capable Swiss movements at accessible prices. Though a fraction of the size of its neighbour Sellita, the manufacture has expanded through a pragmatic combination of selective automation, a more focused movement catalogue, and careful investments in production. Its approach offers an instructive look at how Swiss watchmaking can remain competitive while retaining the skills needed to produce everything from solar quartz movements to hand-finished tourbillons under one roof. To find out more about MLJP, we visited the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, one of the historical centres of watchmaking in the Swiss Jura. A primer on MLJP The history of MLJP can be traced to the revival of complicated watchmaking in the early 1990s. Established by Jean-Pierre Jaquet in 1990 under his own name, the firm supplied specialised movements, including shaped calibres and complications, to the growing fine watchmaking segment. Among its best-known offerings of that era was a monopusher chronograph designed by François-Paul Journe and produced for clients like Franck Muller and Girard-Perregaux. Loosely related to the cal. 045MC that Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) developed previously for Cartier, the platform remains in production today as the cal. A5000, one of the manufacture’s more upmarket movements. The cal. A5000 in an ...

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Vacheron Constantin Sep 25, 2026

Breguet Expands Marine Fleet

The Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527 chronograph have been with us since 2018, remaining largely unchanged even as the rest of the catalogue has been thoroughly modernised. Now, the Marine collection gets its refresh with new dials and a range of materials, from titanium to 18k rose and white gold. The Marine 5517 in titanium Initial thoughts The Marine is something of an outlier among high-end integrated bracelet sports watches, being one of the few designs that avoids the 1970s-inspired styling that dominates the segment. Instead, the Marine carries design DNA from the brand’s heritage producing marine chronometers, dressed in a suitably seaworthy case and bracelet (or rubber strap). One of the most notable design changes for the updated Marine is that the roman numerals have been retired in favour of Breguet numerals. This update gives the Marine obvious Breguet design DNA, but some may find the mix of traditional Breguet elements on the dial with the contemporary case too much of a clash. The Marine 5527 in 18k rose gold There’s little question about the overall quality of the Marine, but the pricing puts its head-to-head with popular models from Audemars Piguet, such as the Royal Oak Chronograph, which is actually $500 cheaper than the 5527 in 18k rose gold. That said, the titanium variants are priced competitively, relative to titanium sports watches of similar quality from the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Six references, with bracelet or strap A little against conv...

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Bulgari unveiled Sep 25, 2026

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Vianney Halter

At Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari unveiled its latest collaboration with an independent watchmaker, three years after a fateful meeting between Vianney Halter and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director at Bulgari. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter Both describe their encounter – seemingly improbable at first – as more natural than we might expect. It resulted in a watch they both describe as “half Octo, half Vianney”. Yet this was not simply a matter of grafting one aesthetic onto another; the collaboration went deeper. Two separate conversations bring the same themes into focus: human connection, constraint as a creative stimulus and, above all, the opportunity to learn from one another. Vianney Halter (left) with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Image – Bulgari From Bulgari’s perspective, Mr Stigliani describes the Octo Finissimo as a model whose identity had become strong enough to withstand a much deeper transformation – and a manufacture challenged by the ideas of an independent watchmaker. Mr Halter, meanwhile, has long regarded collaboration as a means of moving beyond the boundaries and limitations of his own workshop – provided that the human relationship comes before the project. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Fabrizio, how did the idea of working with Vianney Halter come about? Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (FBS): I’ve always been in love with the Antiqua. We went to see Vi...

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Frederique Constant became Sep 24, 2026

Audemars Piguet Brings Padel to Singapore

Audemars Piguet is hosting a Padel Pop-Up Club starting September 25, marking the brand’s first local event tied to its involvement in the sport. Held in the School Hall of New Bahru, a fashionable “lifestyle destination”, the event will combine padel sessions with a courtside lounge, welcoming experienced players and newcomers. Padel, like its American counterpart pickleball, is a fast-growing racquet sport that blends elements of tennis and squash. Usually played in doubles, the sport is synonymous with the social atmosphere that surrounds it. Recognising this, Audemars Piguet is hosting a courtside lounge to welcome those who are more interested in the social scene than scoring points on the court. Audemars Piguet formally got involved with padel back in May, announcing a global partnership as official timekeeper of the Qatar Airways Premier Padel Tour, alongside sponsorship of Agustín Tapia, one of the sport’s top players. The tour agreement includes courtside clocks and branding at tournaments. While major sports like tennis, golf, and Formula 1 are saturated with watch brand partnerships, emerging sports like padel represent something of a Greenfield opportunity, especially with a younger audience. But that’s changing as brands adapt the well-established sponsorship playbook to the new domain. Earlier this year, Rolex added Spanish padel star Arturo Coello to its circle of celebrities, and Frederique Constant became the official watch partner of the Pro Pa...

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Breitling Aerospace debuted more than Sep 23, 2026

H. Moser & Cie.’s Off-Grid Bares All

Following last year’s Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition made for the Alpine F1 team, H. Moser & Cie has just released its second smartwatch, this time with a unique take on the genre. The Off-Grid offers a streamlined set of programmed complications designed to occupy in the space between a mechanical watch and a smartwatch. In doing so, the Off-Grid eschews common functions like health tracking and notifications, allowing its full feature set to be accessed with or without a smartphone connection. The offline theme explains its most unusual complication, a built-in dictionary of 10 words in each of 21 different languages. Initial thoughts At first glance, the 1980s-style ana-digi display may feel more at home in a G-Shock or Seiko ‘Arnie’ than a Swiss luxury watch, though Moser is hardly the first Swiss brand to give the format a go. The Breitling Aerospace debuted more than 40 years ago, and Omega later introduced the ana-digi Speedmaster X-33 in 1998. But unlike the aforementioned, Moser’s choice to put the module on show beneath a semi-open-worked dial is a unique approach and reveals the brand’s mechanical watchmaking instincts. With the Off-Grid, Moser is trying to find the middle ground between mechanical and electronic watchmaking that offers the benefits of both worlds but without all the downsides — like constant notifications and fast-draining batteries. The “Off-Grid” moniker sums up the effort, both in terms of its autonomy and its conceptua...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre cal 101 which Sep 23, 2026

Hands On: Blancpain Lady B

The charming and compact Lady B extends Blancpain’s collection of elegant ladies watches while upholding the brand’s longstanding commitment to mechanical calibres. At just 19 mm in size and almost spherical in form, the Lady B contains an upmarket automatic movement that transcends the quartz-powered norms for this segment of watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Lady B is the spiritual successor to the Ladybird Bullet, which introduced the world’s smallest round mechanical movement when it debuted 70 years ago under the leadership of Betty Fiechter, the first woman to lead a major Swiss watch brand. The “round” qualifier is important because the smallest mechanical movement — then, as now — was the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 101, which is still in production but in extremely limited numbers, and reserved for high jewellery collections. The Lady B (left) with the original Ladybird Bullet from 1956 The Lady B is larger than the vintage Bullet, but at just 19 mm it’s still small enough that the size is the main point of intrigue. The watch is almost spherical being 13 mm thick, but rather than feeling too thick this aspect gives the watch a charming bead-like feel similar to the original Bullet. The spherical feel is completed by the absence of conventional lugs; the Lady B instead features a pass-through channel for a selection of interchangeable straps. This hypothetically allows multiple Lady B’s to be “stacked” on the same strap for a jewellery-like look, b...

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Cartier Sep 22, 2026

Sotheby’s Sets Record Price for Cartier and Quartz

The Cartier Cheich is one of the jeweller’s most unusual, and rarest, creations. Originally conceived as a prize for winners of the Dakar Rally during the years when the race was sponsored by Cartier, the Cheich was modelled on the rally’s emblem that is a stylised bust of a Tuareg tribesman wearing a headscarf – cheich is French for “sheikh”. Four originals in yellow gold were made, and amongst the recipients were Thierry Sabine, the founder of the Paris Dakar Cartier Challenge, and Gaston Rahier, a driver who won the rally in 1984 and 1985. Sabine’s death in 1986 put an end to Cartier’s sponsorship of the rally. Rahier’s watch was sold by Sotheby’s in 2022 for a little over €1 million with fees. But some 25 years after the original Cheich watches were made, Cartier made one more, in white gold no less. And that watch just sold for US$3.38 million including fees at Sotheby’s stellar Hong Kong auction, making it the most valuable Cartier watch ever sold publicly – and also the most valuable quartz watch ever sold. The result underlines the continuing demand for distinctive Cartier form watches, a category that includes the iconic Crash. The Cheich in white gold was originally commissioned by Giorgio Seragnoli, an heir to an Italian packaging dynasty who was once owned the world’s largest collection of Cartier timepieces, primarily wristwatches in white metals. A native of Bologna, sMr Seragnoli unfortunately exhausted even his considerable fortune...

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Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Sep 22, 2026

Insight: Screw-Down Showdown

Mechanical movements attract most of the technical interest in watchmaking, but considerable engineering also goes into keeping them dry. For an everyday watch, the waterproof construction of the case and crown is central to its reliability, yet the way these components keep water out is often misunderstood. Screw-down crowns and case backs are widely regarded as the best way to seal a watch. But the choice is not always straightforward. On a hand-wound watch, for example, a screw-down crown must be unscrewed and tightened regularly, adding an extra step to winding and potentially compromising the threads. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, on the other hand, features a conventional crown and is rated to 50 m. Even so, some owners remain wary of exposing it to more than an occasional splash. So the question is, how much protection can a conventional crown provide, and what does a screw-down construction add? To understand the distinction, we take a closer look at the crown, its tube and the gaskets that form the seal. As a disclaimer, this discussion concerns modern watches with seals in good condition; vintage watches and those long overdue for service should be checked for waterproofness prior to contact with water. A common misconception The actual waterproofness of a joint relates to the uniformity of the seal pressure. In this case, “waterproofness” is used broadly as the ability of a mechanical joint to keep water from seeping in under normal functioning conditions...

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Sep 21, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Lord Sandberg

This weekend’s results at Sotheby’s Hong Kong typify contemporary interest in independent watchmaking, and in special editions of series-produced watches. In contrast, the Sandberg Collection, assembled by former HSBC chairman Baron Michael Sandberg, paints a picture of another era of watch collecting, when elaborately decorated pocket watches and exotic automata ruled the auction room. The latest chapter in our Complicated Collectors series explores some of the most emblematic pieces of this extraordinary collection. Before it was dispersed at Antiquorum in 2001, the Sandberg Collection ranked among the most ambitious private assemblies of horological art formed in the latter half of the 20th century. Comprising over 400 timepieces, it reflected sustained engagement with both the mechanical and symbolic dimensions of watchmaking. Lord Sandberg, in his office in Hong Kong. Image – South China Morning Post The holdings spanned time and geography, from Geneva enamels and French musical complications to English automata and Islamic and Chinese adaptations, alongside early German and English forms, yet they build a coherent whole.  Instead of building around a single school or brand, Sandberg assembled a collection participating in a larger conversation: between European and Oriental markets, between religious and secular symbolism, and between utility and ornament. Lord Sandberg’s long residence in Hong Kong likely shaped both his access and his perspective. Chinese...

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F.P. Journe Supports Paris Brain Institute Sep 18, 2026

F.P. Journe Supports Paris Brain Institute with Unique Chronomètre Furtif

Having recently unveiled a unique burgundy chronograph to benefit the Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco, F.P. Journe is back with the unique Chronomètre Furtif ICM that will be auctioned later this month to support the work of the Institut du Cerveau et de la Moelle épinièhe (ICM), better known internationally as the Paris Brain Institute. The black enamel dial of the CF ICM. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts F.P. Journe is a watchmaker at the height of its market influence, so its nice to see the brand use its considerable power to continue its longstanding practice of contributing to worthwhile causes. ICM was founded by former FIA president Jean Todt, a longtime friend of François-Paul Journe who also informed the concept behind the Centigraphe. The unique Centigraphe from 2016 featured a blue mother-of-pearl dial with the ICM logo at 12 o’clock. Image – F.P. Journe The Geneva-based watchmaker was the ICM’s first private donor, and has contributed significantly over the past two decades. The brand’s first contributions arrived in 2004 by way of a trio of unique Vagabondage watches auctioned by Antiquorum. The three lots hammered for between CHF63,250 and CHF80,500, with all proceeds going to ICM. A unique Centigraphe was produced for the charity in 2016, when it hammered for the equivalent of about US$136,000 at the time. An impressive sum for that era, but a number that highlights just how much demand for independent watchmaking — and F.P. Journe ...

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F.P. Journe Supports Brain Research Sep 18, 2026

F.P. Journe Supports Brain Research with Unique Chronomètre Furtif

Having recently unveiled a unique burgundy chronograph to benefit the Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco, F.P. Journe is back with the unique Chronomètre Furtif ICM that will be auctioned later this month to support the work of the Institut du Cerveau et de la Moelle épinièhe (ICM), better known internationally as the Paris Brain Institute. The black enamel dial of the CF ICM. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts F.P. Journe is a watchmaker at the height of its market influence, so its nice to see the brand use its considerable power to continue its longstanding practice of contributing to worthwhile causes. ICM was founded by former FIA president Jean Todt, a longtime friend of François-Paul Journe who also informed the concept behind the Centigraphe. The unique Centigraphe from 2016 featured a blue mother-of-pearl dial with the ICM logo at 12 o’clock. Image – F.P. Journe The Geneva-based watchmaker was the ICM’s first private donor, and has contributed significantly over the past two decades. The brand’s first contributions arrived in 2004 by way of a trio of unique Vagabondage watches auctioned by Antiquorum. The three lots hammered for between CHF63,250 and CHF80,500, with all proceeds going to ICM. A unique Centigraphe was produced for the charity in 2016, when it hammered for the equivalent of about US$136,000 at the time. An impressive sum for that era, but a number that highlights just how much demand for independent watchmaking — and F.P. Journe ...

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Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Sep 18, 2026

Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt

Daniel Roth’s svelte time-only watch remains compact but gains presence with the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt. While it is just a cosmetic update, the black dial with “gilt” markings create a high contrast look that is unusual for ultra-thin dress watches. The formal aesthetic on the front is matched by the DR002 on the reverse. Made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the DR002 is a constructed and finished to a high level, continuing the philosophy of the revived Daniel Roth brand, which has been to recreate historical models, but enhanced superior, proprietary movements. Initial thoughts Style wise the Extra Plat is essentially a remake, albeit with nips and tucks to the design. The tweaks to the design are thoughtful but minimal, and preserve the original design. This is not a groundbreaking creation, but it is handsome and intrinsically appealing. This specific iteration is the best looking of the Extra Plat collection to date. The gold-on-black livery is striking. Unlike earlier versions of the model that are more conventional in colours, this is a more powerful combination, but still remains a formal dress watch. Moreover, the “gilt” dial itself is more complex than it appears: the gold markings are not print but instead the solid gold dial base below showing through the black coating. This illustrates the impressive manufacturing quality of Daniel Roth in general, or more specifically LFT. The Extra Plat retails for CHF55,000, which is competitive in today’s hi...

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Ressence Taps Maze Artist Sep 17, 2026

Ressence Taps Maze Artist for Latest Type 9

For the latest installment of the brand’s Art Watch series, Ressence has teamed up with a contemporary Belgian artist for the puzzling Type 9 Jules Wittock. I say ‘puzzling’, because Mr Wittock’s specialty is hand-drawing incredibly detailed mazes, which are both decorative and solvable. By collaborating with Ressence, the artist has devised a clever maze that fits on the rotating dial of the Type 9. Initial thoughts If it seems like you’re seeing more artistic collaborations in watchmaking, you’re probably right. While it’s not a new idea — Swatch released its first artist edition in 1985, just two years into the company’s history — the format feels increasingly common, especially amongst design-oriented brands and independent watchmakers. For Ressence, the Type 9 Jules Wittlock is the latest in a line of artist collaborations, including works with Shantell Martin, Stefan Sagmeister, and Daniel Engelberg. The brand has also worked with designers like Alain Silberstein and Marc Newson — two regular contributors watch-related projects. While most artist collaborations result in a fairly straightforward dial variant, Ressence is perhaps uniquely suited to the format, with its rotating dial capable of creating a dynamic tableau. In this case, Mr Wittock has taken full advantage of this technical aspect of the watch with a functional, hand-drawn maze, complete with a secret message that reveals itself in the pattern twice per day. Fortunately, the pattern...

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Grand Seiko Revives Sep 17, 2026

Grand Seiko Revives the 9S Arabic Numeral Dial

Grand Seiko is marking 25 years of its hand-wind 9S movement with the Elegance Collection SBGW325, a throwback to one of the earliest Grand Seiko limited edition models. The SBGW325 is modelled on the SBGW003, a 2001 limited edition that debuted the first-ever manual-wind 9S movement. Today’s SBGW325 is equipped with the latest generation of the same movement family, the 9S64, while reviving the distinctive dial design sporting raised Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko rolls out limited edition on a regular basis, so the various editions tend to blend into each other. The SBGW325 manages to stand out because the dial design is distinctive; Grand Seiko has no employed this design on another model aside from the original of 2001. For that reason alone this would be one of the most appealing Grand Seiko limited editions in recent memory. But it’s not just the styling. Although the design is unique in today’s catalogue, the SBGW325 is relatively no frills in terms of movement and materials. The case is compact and steel, while the movement is the time-only 9S64, which makes this quite affordable, further adding to its appeal. Arabic numerals The original SBGW003 combined a cream dial with raised gold Arabic numerals and blued steel hands, resulting in an unusual look for Grand Seiko even today. The new SBGW325 preserves the design but iterates on the colours: the dial is matte blue with raised silver numerals, while the “GS” emblem and seconds hand are gil...

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Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog Sep 16, 2026

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons

Hublot has just unveiled the Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons, its latest — and arguably most striking — collaboration with a contemporary artist. Crafted from anodised aluminium, the case of the watch is delicately machined to almost perfectly replicate the creased, metallic look of a mylar balloon. The plump inflated look extends to the dial and strap, and the watch can be had in three different colours — red, blue, and silver — each of which is limited to 200 pieces. The Balloon Dog is powered by the HUB1710, an upmarket execution of the in-group Zenith Elite platform. Initial thoughts Jeff Koons is likely one of the few contemporary artists with mainstream name recognition outside the world of fine art. While he is arguably best known for his large-scale sculptures, including the Balloon Dog referenced by his collaboration with Hublot, he has had a prolific career and worked in numerous mediums. But it is his ability to replicate the tight, creased look of inflated latex and mylar in materials like stainless steel and aluminium that have cemented his status in the world of contemporary art. The Classic Fusion Balloon Dog taps exactly this expertise, crafted in anodised aluminium with a rounded, puffy form that transforms the sharp, angular Hublot style into something more soft and playful. The result is immediately recognisable thanks to the thoughtfulness of the execution. The familiar Hublot details are present, but have been carefully machined to loo...

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Singer Sep 16, 2026

Singer Reimagines 1970s-Style Sports Watch

Having formed its brand identity with a cushion-shaped case inspired by 1970s designs, Singer Reimagined is now turning to another facet of that decade’s designs. The 1970 Dualtrack is angular with tall bezel and semi-integrated bracelet, marking an entirely new design language for the brand, which is an offshoot of cult “restomod” automaker Singer Vehicle Design. Like the earlier version of the model, the 1970 Dualtrack is a twin time zone watch with a “caller” GMT indicated via a 24-hour ring. It’s powered by an unusual movement with four spaced out barrels that combine for a six day power reserve. Initial thoughts The 1970 is a natural extension of Singer’s retro style that’s conceptually logical, but also appealing in terms of product. The new case design is wearable and also different enough from the cushion-shaped case to make it distinct. If anything, the 1970 might be too ordinary, making it less recognisable as a Singer creation. That said, the design is thoughtful. The attention to the detail in the design reflects Singer founder Marco Borracino’s background as a designer. The angular case has polished, chamfered edges that continue into the bracelet, while the polished bezel has high, fluted sides. It’s clearly inspired by the 1970s, but executed to a higher level than actual 1970s watches in this style that tended to be entry-level timepieces. And compared to the cushion-shaped cases that defined Singer until now, the new 1970 case is more c...

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Rolex Icon Returns as Sep 16, 2026

A Rolex Icon Returns as the Perpetual Padellone

Rolex expands its complicated offerings with the unexpected Perpetual Padellone, a vintage-inspired, instantaneous annual calendar named after the ref. 8171, a saucepan-shaped triple calendar from Rolex’s past. Despite the padellone nickname, first coined by Italian collectors, the Perpetual Padellone is a very different watch from its namesake. It is a modern Rolex through and through, with the quality and functions expected of a modern Rolex. The mechanics are latest generation, with aesthetic choices give the watch a contemporary look, putting the Perpetual Padellone at the intersection between vintage collectors and the wider public. Initial Thoughts Rolex is a forward-looking brand, which explains why this Padellone goes without the namesake sauce pan-esque case, and employs a base movement at the frontier of mechanical timekeeping. The Padellone of today is naturally a far better watch than the ref. 8171 “Padellone” of the 1950s. It is modern and it is a Rolex, which means essentially perfect quality. A very well-preserved 8171 in steel But it is more than just a triple calendar built to Rolex standards. The new Padellone contains an incredible base movement shared with the Land-Dweller, a new calendar that changes instantaneously around midnight and can handle both 30- and 31-day months on its own, and a moon phase that will err by a day in 122 years. Then, there are also the dramatic upgrades to finishing – both outside and in – and build quality, especia...

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Casio n Sep 16, 2026

IWC Marks 50 Years of the Ingenieur

IWC’s magnetism-resistant Ingenieur SL is now 50 years old so the brand is marking the occasion with the Ingenieur Automatic 50th Anniversary, a pair of limited editions that unsurprisingly take inspiration from a historical model. In 40 mm and 35 mm respectively, the two editions share the same brushed silver dial. The two are otherwise identical to the regular production versions, which means a sharply executed case and bracelet, but an industrial movement that doesn’t live up to the price. Initial thoughts Today’s Ingenieur is a derivative design, being based on Gerald Genta’s original of the 1970s (which explains the resemblance to the Royal Oak et al). But it is still a good looking watch, with a case and bracelet that are tangibly well done. The 50th anniversary edition isn’t creative by any stretch of the imagination, but still appealing in look and feel. But at launch in 2023 the Ingenieur was already pricey, especially considering the industrial, cost-effective ValFleurier movement. Still, the price then was forgivable given the wider landscape and integrated-bracelet-sports-watch fad. Now the larger, 40 mm version is US$15,000, which is pricey and difficult to rationalise. The 40 mm and 35 mm, both of use employ different but equally industrial calibres SL reborn The anniversary editions are based on the standard 40 mm and 35 mm models respectively. The two are essentially identical in design and quality; both contain different but comparable movements....

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Ferdinand Berthoud Sep 15, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1

The slate of truly new releases from Geneva Watch Days was fairly limited, but among the many new variants of existing models, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 stood out for its lightweight and richly tactile ceramised titanium case and casual, almost sporty look. Initial thoughts Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) is no stranger to exotic case materials, having used ceramised titanium before (for the FB 1RES.4) as well as carburised stainless steel and bronze. But the FB 3SPC.4-1 is just the second FB 3SPC to come dressed in a non-precious metal case, and the first with a ceramised coating. The FB 3SPC arguably gives up some ground in the looks department, though this is subjective; many collectors find the exposed movement preferable to a conventional dial, since it makes it easier to appreciate the finishing without taking off the watch. That said, the design impacts legibility and some aspects of the layout seem counterintuitive, such as the upside-down orientation of the dial-side balance wheel. The FB 3SPC debuted in 2022 and remains the high-end brand’s entry level model, though with a retail price approaching US$200,000, it’s priced in line with complicated models from established brands. The value proposition of this time-only watch hinges on the appeal of the cylindrical hairspring — which while not unique in contemporary watchmaking is executed superbly — and the no-expense-spared approach to finishing that FB is known for. The pricing also reflects the low-volum...

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Greubel Forsey seems Sep 14, 2026

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger

With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority. Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches. We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D; is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker secretly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Patek Philippe Sep 11, 2026

Highlights: Magnificent Pocket Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

In exactly a week, Sotheby’s Hong Kong will stage Important Watches, an impressive, two-day auction that includes a selection of outstanding pocket watches from Switzerland and Great Britain, namely timepieces by Patek Philippe and Charles Frodsham, with most of the latter made by Nicole Nielsen. Three watches stand out from this already elite herd, built by the best of London and Geneva – a modern grand complication, one of the first-ever flying tourbillon watches, and a minute-repeating pocket chronometer. Despite a recent uptick in interest, pocket watches still offer phenomenal value, and are often the most interesting lots in auction catalogues for movement nerds. The pocket watches in Sotheby’s upcoming sale exemplify this. Lot 2293 – Patek Philippe ref. 942/2 “Grande Complication” This is a relatively recent example of a historical Patek Philippe genre, the grande complication pocket watch, one that dates back over a century now. The common watch complications fall into three categories: chiming, timing, and calendars. Chiming watches include repeaters in all their resolutions, plus clock watches, alarms, and hour strikers. Chronographs, rattrapantes, dédoublantes and independent seconds functions are timing complications. Calendar complications, besides the obvious, include moon phase, time of sunrise and sunset, and equation of time. A triple complicated watch combines complications from all three families. For Patek Philippe this traditionally meant ...

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Patek Philippe Sep 11, 2026

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

One of the most appealing releases of Geneva Watch Days was the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. While not an altogether new model, the watch incorporates a number of welcome updates, including a smaller case and a more refined dial that resembles an instrument panel on the wrist. The L.U.C 98.02-L movement remains in service, and is both COSC and Poinçon de Genève-certified. Moreover, the calibre achieves an impressive nine days of power reserve and is neatly finished, as is typical for Chopard’s higher-end offerings. Initial thoughts Chopard has long been a steward of the regulator format. In fact, the 1963 Heritage Regulator marks 20 years since the brand’s first contemporary regulator wristwatch. The regulator format is strongly associated with precision clocks, but Chopard’s interpretation reminds me of an automotive dashboard — perhaps intentionally, since the brand’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known for his affinity for vintage cars. The latest example is substantially improved over prior generations, with several nips and tucks that result in a move wearable and less busy package overall. The watch is tangibly well made, with an expensive bill of materials and refined execution. The 1963 Heritage Regulator is priced at about US$50,000, and is limited to a concise run of 25 pieces in (ethically sourced) 18k white gold. By current standards, it’s a reasonable proposition, but still slightly above the going rate for a Patek Philippe...

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Sep 10, 2026

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor

Girard-Perregaux (GP) is on the rebound after a few quiet years, and the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 mm is a compelling addition to the premium sports watch arena. Featuring an all-new automatic tourbillon calibre and expensively crafted dials — with optional grand feu enamel — the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon embodies the strides GP has taken to reposition itself in the industrial-haute horlogerie segment. Initial thoughts I tend to feel somewhat jaded about tourbillons squeezed into sports watches, but I was pleasantly surprised by the thoughtful execution of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, from its grand feu flinqué enamel dial to the (surprisingly) solid gold bridges of the all-new cal. GP8410. Moreover, the brand managed to maintain the nearly ideal proportions of the Laureato Fifty while adding a finely finished free-sprung tourbillon to the lower half of the dial. While the 39 mm format is familiar, the cal. GP8410 is one of four new automatic calibres the brand has introduced in roughly the past year, after the workhorse GP4800, the automatic minute repeating cal. GP9530, and the GP9620 with the brand’s emblematic “three gold bridges” architecture. The nearly simultaneous release of these four distinct platforms hints at the investment put into GP since the group’s management buyout in early 2022. Priced at almost exactly US$100,000, both variants of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon are positioned squarely against watches like the Vacheron Consta...

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Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” charity Sep 9, 2026

SJX Podcast: Geneva Watch Days Recap

Geneva Watch Days (GWD) just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. In addition, the event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media. Some 400 watches were debuted at the event — but were they any good? Overall, the event reflected the current state of the industry; demands of buyers were perfectly echoed by the watches released. But as SJX notes during the episode, “just because something looks like a Ferrari doesn’t mean it’s a Ferrari”. Notably, some of the biggest announcements and best watches were launched outside of GWD, but during the same week — the most prominent of all being the Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Seiko s Crowd Favourite 62MAS Sep 8, 2026

The People Have Spoken: Seiko’s Crowd Favourite 62MAS

Last year Seiko let fans vote on which of four vibrant dial colours would adorn an upcoming diver, and the people made the right choice, picking this vibrant Daytime Blue for the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver Fan-Selected HBC011. While a bit late to hit the beach, the latest 62MAS homage maintains all that was already good about Seiko divers, namely looks and tenacity, with key upgrades to the bracelet, for a reasonable price. Initial Thoughts Last year marked 6o years of Seiko diver’s watches, which can be traced back to the original 62MAS (refs. 6217-8000 and -8001) launched in 1965. Seiko let the many fans of its diver’s watches decide how to celebrate, giving collectors a choice of four colourways: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. The online poll was open for the entire month of July, which was long enough for me “to get around to later” but short enough that it had already closed by the time I remembered to vote. Unsurprisingly, the trendiest colour, and the one I would have voted for, Daytime Blue, won. From left to right: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. Seiko has disclosed no plans to bring the other three colourways to market at this time. The vibrant blue and stamped dial make the HBC011 stand out from the pack of 62MAS-inspired models, though it changes the character of the watch so entirely that this bubbly beach watch doesn’t feel like a 62MAS at all. Which is a good thing, as the mo...

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F.P. Journe Unveils Unique Chronographe Sep 7, 2026

F.P. Journe Unveils Unique Chronographe to Benefit Monaco Charity

F.P. Journe and H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco have announced the creation of the one-off Chronographe Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco for the monarch’s upcoming charity auction. The Chronographe Fondation evolves the movement architecture of the Chronographe FB and adds the burgundy-and-bone livery that has become a calling card of the brand’s support for the Monaco-based charity. H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco and François-Paul Journe. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts The design is undeniably busy with a mix contrasting colours and fonts. Yet taste is almost beside the point, since rare F.P. Journe watches with striking dials are amongst the hottest watches in the world at the moment. It also arrives amid sustained demand for unique watches created for charity. While unlikely to match the expected result of the Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” set, it combines several proven ingredients that should supercharge its value. Stylistically, the watch is consistent with F.P. Journe’s three prior creations for the Foundation: the 2018 Chronographe Rattrapante, the Chronomètre Optimum of 2022, and the Chronomètre à Résonance of 2024. The latter hammered for US$2.98 million, setting a lofty precedent. The similar Chronographe FB retailed for CHF90,000 in 2024, but this point of reference is purely academic — uniqueness and charity will determine the result, and the Resonance result suggests both can overwhelm any conventional sense of value. Burgundy...

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Louis Erard Sep 7, 2026

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter

Bulgari had a number of surprises in store for Geneva Watch Days, which helped the brand stand out from a somewhat quiet field. At the top of the list was the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, which shoehorns the steampunk aesthetic developed by Jeff Barnes and Vianney Halter into Bulgari’s minimalist Octo Finissimo platform. The confluence of designs mostly succeeds, whether in sandblasted titanium or 18k rose gold. The latter recalls Vianney Halter’s beloved Antiqua, but the flat and wide Octo case gives this collaboration a distinct personality. Initial thoughts Bulgari is no stranger to collaborations, and neither is Vianney Halter, who is surely one of the most prolific collaborators in the field of independent watchmaking. At Geneva Watch Days alone, three different brands exhibited watches with his name attached to them. Notably, the French watchmaker has collaborated with Massena Lab, Louis Erard, and even Behrens, the upstart from Shenzen. For Bulgari’s part, the brand’s product director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani has developed the Octo Finissimo into a platform for experimentation, lending its sleek footprint to renowned architects, painters, and even tattoo artists, often to good effect. The versatility of the Octo Finissimo is due in large part to its singular character — its wide, aggressively tapering bracelet and ultra-slim construction make it recognisable with or without the Bulgari logo or other decorative treatments. The collaborat...

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