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WristBuzz›Brands›Formex

Formex

Swiss independent founded in Biel/Bienne in 1999, best known for its patented case-suspension system (a spring-mounted movement inside the case that absorbs shocks) and for the Essence integrated-bracelet sports watch. Revived under the founder's son in 2019 with a direct-to-consumer sales model, and positions itself against the mainstream Swiss-luxury segment with COSC-certified Swiss Made references at CHF 2,500-5,000 retail.

Founded1999
HeadquartersBiel/Bienne, Switzerland
FounderRaphael Granito (Sr.)
ParentIndependent
WristBuzz Articles84
Formex

Photo: Two Broke Watch Snobs · Yesterday

1999Founded
PatentCase Suspension
2019Revived
COSCMany References
84WristBuzz Articles

The Formex Story

Raphael Granito Sr. founded Formex in 1999 in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, the industrial heart of Swiss mass watch production. Granito's founding innovation was the case-suspension system: the watch movement is mounted inside a spring-loaded chassis within the outer case, so shock forces to the case are absorbed before reaching the movement. The patent was issued in 1999 and has remained Formex's core technical differentiator.

Through the 2000s and 2010s Formex produced serious tool-and-sports watches with the suspension system: chronographs, divers, and GMT variants at mid-market prices (CHF 2,000-4,000). The brand was commercially modest but built a technical reputation among enthusiasts; Formex pieces were widely cited for their genuine anti-shock performance (verified in independent drop tests) and for the distinctive visual design of the exposed suspension springs through the dial or caseback.

In 2019, Raphael Granito Jr. (son of the founder) took over and relaunched the brand with a new commercial model: direct-to-consumer online sales through the Formex website, bypassing retailers. This allowed the brand to offer COSC-certified Swiss Made references with the suspension system at CHF 2,500-4,500 retail, meaningfully below competitive positioning. The flagship Essence (2020), an integrated-bracelet automatic sports watch, became the brand's commercial breakthrough; positioned directly against watches like the Tudor Black Bay and Oris Big Crown at similar pricing but with the case-suspension advantage.

The modern collection includes the Essence 39 and Essence 41 (integrated-bracelet sports watch), the Reef (dive watch, 300m), the Element (field-watch variant), and various limited editions. All references use COSC-certified automatic movements (ETA or Sellita base with Formex modifications) and the patented case-suspension architecture. Retail: approximately CHF 2,500 (Essence 39 base) to CHF 4,500 (Reef Blue Forged Carbon) and CHF 6,000+ for specific limited-edition configurations. Annual production is in the low tens of thousands, substantial for a direct-to-consumer Swiss independent.

Iconic Collections

Since 2020
Essence
The integrated-bracelet sports-watch flagship. 39mm or 41mm steel case, COSC-certified Sellita SW200 base with suspension system, tapered integrated bracelet.
Since 2015
Reef
300m-water-resistant dive watch. Ceramic bezel, COSC-certified, suspension system. Available in steel, black DLC, and forged-carbon-case variants.
Since 2022
Element
Field-watch variant with more utilitarian design vocabulary. Matte finishes, tool-watch legibility, 100m water resistance.
Since 2000s
Chronographs
Legacy chronograph line carried over from the first-generation Formex; Valjoux 7750-based with modified suspension integration.
Since 2020
Limited Editions
Annual limited variants: forged-carbon cases, specific dial colourways, collaboration pieces with microbrand retailers. Typically 150-300 pieces per edition.
Ongoing
Micro Collaborations
Small-batch collaborations with online enthusiast communities; typically sold to newsletter subscribers.

Heritage Timeline

1999
Raphael Granito Sr. founds Formex in Biel/Bienne; case-suspension patent issued
2000s
Formex grows as mid-market Swiss sports-watch brand with the suspension system
2019
Raphael Granito Jr. takes over; brand relaunches with direct-to-consumer model
2020
Essence integrated-bracelet flagship launches; becomes the commercial breakthrough
2022
Element field-watch broadens the collection; Reef dive continues to expand with material variants
2024
Brand production reaches low tens of thousands of units per year; direct-to-consumer channel remains exclusive sales route

Latest Formex News

Formex Watches vs Nodus: Which Microbrand Makes the Better Titanium Field Watch?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Formex Watches vs Nodus: Which Microbrand Makes the Better Titanium Field Watch?
Yesterday
Introducing - The new Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift
3 days ago
Formex gives its Essence Ceramica a bold look with new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter RedShift
Time+Tide
Formex gives its Essence Ceramica a bold look with new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter RedShift
3 days ago
The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito
Sep 30, 2026
Formex Just Turned Its Best Field Watch Into Something I Want More
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Formex Just Turned Its Best Field Watch Into Something I Want More
Sep 29, 2026
Formex Introduces the New AirField
Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces the New AirField
Sep 29, 2026
Value Proposition - Formex Takes its Field Watch to the Air with the New AirField Titanium Pilot’s Watch
Monochrome
Value Proposition - Formex Takes its Field Watch to the Air with the New AirField Titanium Pilot’s Watch
Sep 24, 2026
Formex’s field watch takes to the skies with new Formex AirField 40mm Automatic
Time+Tide
Formex’s field watch takes to the skies with new Formex AirField 40mm Automatic
Sep 24, 2026
The Formex Aria Proves The Phrase “Don’t Knock It ‘Til You Try It”
Fratello
The Formex Aria Proves The Phrase “Don’t Knock It ‘Til You Try It”
Sep 16, 2026
The Formex Essence FortyOne Arctic White is an engineering nerd’s everyday sports watch
Time+Tide
The Formex Essence FortyOne Arctic White is an engineering nerd’s everyday sports watch
Sep 13, 2026
First Look - The New Formex Essence 39mm Automatic COSC, Upgraded Where It Counts
Monochrome
First Look - The New Formex Essence 39mm Automatic COSC, Upgraded Where It Counts
Aug 27, 2026
Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm
Fratello
Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm
Aug 27, 2026
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