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Seagull

Chinese watchmaker founded in 1955 in Tianjin, the largest mechanical movement maker in the world by volume (~25% of global mechanical movement production). Famous for producing the first Chinese-made mechanical wristwatch (1955), the first Chinese tourbillon (1996), and supplying base calibres to the global affordable mechanical watch industry. Sells own-brand watches at affordable prices alongside its OEM movement business.

Founded1955
HeadquartersTianjin, China
FounderChinese state watchmaking initiative
ParentTianjin Seagull Watch Group
WristBuzz Articles5
Seagull

Photo: Teddy Baldassarre · Oct 22, 2025

1955Founded
TianjinHQ
~25%Global Mech. Output
1996First Chinese Tourbillon
5WristBuzz Articles

The Seagull Story

Seagull (天津海鸥) was founded in 1955 in Tianjin, China as the country's first state-led mechanical watchmaking enterprise. The same year the firm produced the first Chinese-made mechanical wristwatch, the Wuxing ("Five Star"), establishing China as a watchmaking nation in the post-revolution industrial-development era. The firm grew steadily through the 1960s and 1970s as the supplier of Chinese civilian and military mechanical watches.

The most consequential modern milestone was 1996, when Seagull produced the first Chinese-made tourbillon, the Cal. ST8000. This established Seagull as a serious technical watchmaker capable of haute-horlogerie complications, not just mass-market production. The firm has since expanded into chronograph movements (ST19, the Venus 175 derivative used in countless affordable mechanical chronographs globally), automatic three-hand calibres (ST21/25), and various complications including dual-time, GMT, and skeleton movements.

Seagull is the largest mechanical movement maker in the world by volume, producing an estimated ~25% of global mechanical movement output. The firm supplies base calibres to dozens of European, American, and Asian watch brands sold under their own names; many "Swiss-made" or "affordable mechanical" watches in the $200-$2,000 retail range run on Seagull movements. The firm's OEM business is much larger than its own-brand watch business by revenue.

Seagull-branded watches are sold direct-to-consumer through seagull-watches.com and through Chinese and Asian retail at very competitive prices. The catalogue includes 1963 Pilot (a chronograph reference celebrating Chinese aviation history), Ocean Star dive watches, Skeleton dress watches with exposed Cal. ST21 movements, and Tourbillon references at remarkably accessible prices (~$2,000-$5,000 for an entry tourbillon, vs $15,000+ for Swiss equivalents).

Total Seagull production (own-brand plus OEM) is in the millions of movements per year; own-brand watch sales are in the high hundreds of thousands per year. The firm operates as a state-affiliated enterprise but functions on commercial market principles within the global watch industry.

Iconic Collections

Since 1955
Wuxing Heritage
Reference to the original 1955 first Chinese-made mechanical wristwatch; modern Seagull catalogue heritage marker.
Since 1996
Tourbillon Series
Tourbillon references with the Cal. ST8000 family. Most accessible tourbillons on the market at ~$2,000-$5,000 retail.
Modern
1963 Pilot Chronograph
Reissue of the 1963 Chinese Air Force pilot chronograph. ST19 chronograph movement (Venus 175 derivative); the canonical affordable mechanical chronograph.
Modern
Ocean Star
Seagull's modern dive watch line. ST21 automatic, 200 m water resistance, ~$300-$500 retail.
Modern
Skeleton Dress
Exposed-movement dress watches showing the Cal. ST21 architecture. Affordable haute-horlogerie aesthetic.
OEM
Industry Movements
Cal. ST19 chronograph, ST21/25 automatic three-hand, and various complication calibres supplied to dozens of branded watch makers globally.

Heritage Timeline

1955
Seagull founded in Tianjin; produces Wuxing, the first Chinese-made mechanical wristwatch
1960s-70s
Standard supplier of Chinese civilian and military mechanical watches
1996
Produces first Chinese-made tourbillon, Cal. ST8000; technical milestone
2000s
OEM movement business expands to global supply; ST19 chronograph becomes industry standard for affordable mechanical chronographs
2010s
Direct-to-consumer own-brand sales expand internationally
Modern
Estimated ~25% of global mechanical movement production; largest mechanical movement maker in the world by volume

Latest Seagull News

Teddy Baldassarre
The Most Attainable Mechanical Chronograph on the Market - Seagull 196
Oct 22, 2025
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Video Games Galore, Screeching Seagulls, and Leica’s Newest Safari Model
May 10, 2025
Monochrome
Introducing – Seagull Presents a $3,500 Split-Second Chronograph, Arguably the Most Accessible Rattrapante on the Market
Jan 8, 2025
Monochrome
News – Seagull Drastically Limits Supply of the ST-19 Chronograph, but not for Studio Underd0g
Nov 14, 2024
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g signs exclusive deal with Seagull, launching the third generation of the “iconic” 01Series
Nov 14, 2024
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