Hodinkee
In-Depth: Everything You Need To Know About The Early Chopard L.U.C Collection
How Chopard's first in-house caliber 1.96 set the stage for 25 years of top-tier watchmaking.
Results for Caliber DUW 3001
772 articles · 181 videos found · page 10 of 32
Hodinkee
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Announces the Big Crown Calibre 473
To kick off 2023, Oris officially revealed the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473-a watch showcasing the latest evolution of their in-house Caliber 400.
Deployant
New: TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 44 mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
The evergreen and ever popular TAG Heuer Carrara gets a refresh with a new design and now equipped with the Caliber Heuer 02 Automatic.
Fratello
Grand Seiko Unveils The New Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers
During Watches and Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko unveiled two Spring Drive models powered by a new Ultra Fine Accuracy (U.F.A.) caliber. This year, the Japanese watchmaker follows up on last year’s novelties with two Ushio 300 divers housing a new U.F.A. movement. On top of that, the brand finally granted enthusiasts’ wishes for a smaller […] Visit Grand Seiko Unveils The New Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers to read the full article.
Fratello
Patek Philippe Says Desk Clocks Are A Big Deal Again: Introducing The Ref. 27000M-001 Housing A New Movement With Nine Patents
Wristwatches are so 2024. In 2025, Patek Philippe says desk clocks are a big deal again. Proof is the ref. 27000M-001, a table clock inspired by models created in the 1920s and 1930s. The new creation features both a perpetual and weekly calendar and is powered by new manually wound high-performance caliber with a 31-day […] Visit Patek Philippe Says Desk Clocks Are A Big Deal Again: Introducing The Ref. 27000M-001 Housing A New Movement With Nine Patents to read the full article.
Video
IWC Ingenieur: 5 Things Watch Reviewers DON'T Say
The new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 in Pool Blue might just be my favourite Ingenieur yet. In this hands-on review, I take a closer look at IWC's latest integrated bracelet sports watch and explain why a simple dial ch...
Quill & Pad
Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? - Reprise
Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Caliber 3235? Find out right here!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
New Steel Omega Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” Just Announced (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)
Omega has delivered on what the Speedmaster community has been demanding for a while now. The big difference between the previous Omega 1863 Caliber and the new Omega 321 Caliber is that the 321 has a column wheel actuator for the chronograph. This is in contrast to the 1863 Caliber's cam-actuated chronograph function.
Deployant
New: NOMOS Glashütte Tetra 27 white and Tetra 27 duo
NOMOS Glashütte adds two new watches to its smallest square case: the Tetra 27 white and the Tetra 27 duo. Both measure 27.5mm on each side and just 6.1mm thick, both are hand-wound by the in-house DUW 4001, and both are offered with a choice of solid steel or sapphire crystal back.
Worn & Wound
Industry News: Ronda Returns to Mechanical Movements with the Impressive R01
Typically, not a lot happens in the world of third-party mechanical watch movements. The ETA2824 reigned supreme for decades until Swatch Group stopped openly supplying them, giving way primarily to Sellita, Soprod, and La Joux Perret on the Swiss side, and Miyota and Seiko on the Japanese side. For the most part, the catalogs of those brands stayed relatively unchanged for many years, but now, it appears that there’s a bit of an arms race happening. The days of 42-hour power reserves are over, and brands are now vying for features and specifications once limited to more expensive calibers; to that end, there have been a series of interesting events/releases. First, the COSC announced the creation of the “Excellence Chronometer” standard with a -2/+4 accuracy standard among other considerations. Sellita launched the SW200-2 Power + movements with 65-hour reserves, new gear trains, and other improvements. The CEO of La Joux Perret spoke about the upcoming G-200 caliber, which will feature a 72-hour reserve and antimagnetic properties, on the Hodinkee podcast. And this week, a very exciting new automatic was announced by a surprising source: Ronda. The R150 launched in 2016 Ronda is a well-known Swiss manufacturer that was founded in 1946. Over their 80 years of existence, they have specialized in many things, from component manufacturing to ebauchés and full mechanical movements to, beginning in the 1970s, quartz calibers, which is what they are best known for today....
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co
What We Know Today, Zenith introduces a new "Double Signed" program for its Calibre 135-powered G.F.J. collection, and its first entry in this series is a collaboration with a Japanese independent that might not require all that much introduction around these parts—Naoya Hida. The evolution of the G.F.J. line has not taken all that long, with its origins starting in 2022 with the Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire Limited Edition, where ten Calibre 135 movements from the 50s were restored by Kari Voutilainen and introduced in watches done as a triple collaboration between Zenith, Voutilainen, and auction house Phillips. Just three years later, the Calibre 135 was revived as a modern caliber for a line called the G.F.J. (after Zenith's founder Georges Favre Jacot). In just a little over a year, we've seen three small runs of this watch introduced in different stone-dial and metal combinations—platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, tantalum with an onyx dial, and an upcoming yellow-gold GFJ with a bloodstone dial. In the meantime, this new Double Signed concept with Naoya Hida takes the G.F.J. in a very different visual direction. The hefty 39.15mm platinum case, with a thickness of 10.5mm and a compact lug-to-lug of 45.75mm, remains the same as other G.F.J. models. But that dial is unabashedly Naoya Hida, constructed out of solid silver with the distinctive hand engraving coming from the hand of master engraver Keisuke Kano, the man responsible for the hand engraving across al...
Video
The stunning affordable alternatives to high end watches
For inquiries and collabs: twtw.mike@gmail.com
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5322G Brings A More Modern-Sized And Styled Chiming Alarm Function To The Catalog (Live Pics)
What We Know Unveiled as part of a slew of new releases for Watches and Wonders 2026, the Patek Philippe 5322G offers a chiming 24-hour alarm complication in a modern case and design, with a new movement and a slightly smaller size than the discontinued model it replaces. The watch is housed in a white gold 41mm Calatrava case that's 12.22mm thick and features hollowed-out lugs, the brand's signature 'Clous de Paris' or "hobnail" guilloché pattern on the case middle, and a single pusher at 2 o'clock. The alarm is programmed through the pusher, and it can be set via the crown in the second position, which the brand says works "intuitively." With a water resistance of 30 meters, Patek says the new 5322G is the only water-resistant chiming watch in the current collection. The new model replaces the Ref. 5520 Pilot Alarm Travel Time, which debuted in 2019 and was inspired by an historical aviator watch in the Patek museum in Geneva. Photo courtesy Patek Philippe. The model continues Patek's modern Calatrava style with a textured, lacquered dial in green or blue. The applied Arabic numerals and white-gold, syringe-style hands are both filled with luminescent material, adding to the contemporary feel. A hand display date sits at 6 o'clock, while the double-window aperture of the alarm function sits above the handset at 12 o'clock. Powering the 5322G is the new self-winding AL 30-660 S C caliber that chimes the alarm with a single hammer striking a classic gong around the case...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 38 Update Brings the Date Ring and the Midas Touch to a Smaller Size
In the Nomos Glashütte lineup, the Tangente is one that brings it all: the allure of 18-karat gold, sizes that range from 33 to 42mm, a unique and subtle date ring, even a few models rated to 1,000 feet of water resistance. Now the most popular features merge into one aptly-named release: the Tangente neomatik 38 Update, making its debut at this year’s Watches & Wonders. It begins with the mid-sized case that measures 38.5 millimeters, hitting the sweet spot of popularity and balanced proportions. And it’s now available in 18-karat gold, alongside the stainless steel seen on most Tangente models. “By introducing Tangente Update in gold,” says Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt, “we are also responding to a frequently heard request for modern dress watches, crafted from precious metal.” The most important feature in this new model is adapting the date ring into a smaller format. The date ring, which Nomos calls Update, circles the edge of the dial with oval windows marking the days of the month, indicating the current date with two red markers on either side. Previously, the date ring was formerly only available in a 41mm size, or in an unusual two-date system that debuted in 2024. What’s under the skin and behind that 18-karat gold case is the neomatik caliber DUW 6101: an automatic-wind movement with up to 42 hours of power reserve that now gets the same date ring system adapted into a smaller size (just 7.4mm in height, a squeak below the 7.8mm size of the ...
Fratello
Back To Basics: What Is An In-House Movement, And How Does It Affect Your Ownership Experience?
Welcome back to another installment of Back to Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to the watch hobby. This time, we have a closer look at in-house versus ébauche calibers. What, exactly, is an in-house movement, and why should you care? Hopefully, by the end of this article, you will know the answer and whether […] Visit Back To Basics: What Is An In-House Movement, And How Does It Affect Your Ownership Experience? to read the full article.
Fratello
Hublot Upgrades The Big Bang Original Collection To Unico Status
Hublot celebrated 20 years of the Big Bang last year with a limited-edition Big Bang 20th Anniversary edition. These LEs took their design language from the original models and paired it with Unico in-house calibers. It was only a matter of time before we would see this sensible pairing in a regular-production model, and here […] Visit Hublot Upgrades The Big Bang Original Collection To Unico Status to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Yema Navygraf is the Latest Diver to get the Mother of Pearl Treatment
There is something about mother-of-pearl that seems to be catching watchmakers’ eyes lately. While I highly doubt it has to do with the fact that “Mother of Pearl” is a phenomenal drag name, I can’t totally rule that out as a possibility. Instead, more likely, it has to do with the ease in which adding the iridescent substance onto an existing design gives it new personality without really reinventing the wheel. Case in point: Yema’s Navygraf Pearl. Undoubtedly, the Navygraf is a handsome watch. But, like a drag queen, sometimes it’s hard to describe something as both “handsome” and “pretty” simultaneously. At least, that was my first impression of this French-made watch. Using the classic dive watch model, like the Navygraf, and inlaying mother-of-pearl seemed, in a way, incongruous to the steely, masculine athleticism of the silhouette. But, upon examining the bezel and dial a little more closely, I’m more inclined to think this is less of a gimmick and more of a thematic appreciation for the beauty and sport that the ocean provides (unfortunately, I’m only speculating – the press release was more focused on the technical specs of this Navygraf). So, what are the specs? This is a thinner Navygraf variant, equipped with a micro-rotor caliber CMM.2, meaning that the 316L stainless steel case measuring 39mm, only clocks in at 9.75mm thickness. The CMM.2 caliber also promises around 70 hours of power reserve, making it suitable for any diving trips ...
Video
Value in luxury watches isn't dead. It just moved.
For inquiries and collabs: twtw.mike@gmail.com
Worn & Wound
The 2026 Winter Olympics are 100 Days Away, and Omega Has a New Speedmaster to Celebrate
It’s that time again. The air is getting crisper, the days are getting shorter, and, for better or for worse, the realization that winter will soon set in is becoming more and more real. If you’re like me, and dread fighting snowy streets and icey…everything, this is a less than exciting time. But if you’re Omega? Well, that’s a different story. They are in countdown mode to the 2026 Winter Olympics in Milano Cortina, and they’ve just released a new Speedmaster to mark 100 days from the start of the games. The Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 is built on the 38mm Speedmaster platform, and comes in a stainless steel case that measures 14.75mm tall. The dial is evocative of the snowy mountains that will be the setting for the games for next year, with a varnished white surface and subtle blue accents that evoke the Milano Cortina 2026 logo. The blue ceramic bezel and blue CVD coated hour markers keep the theme coherent and appropriately wintery. Another nice detail is that the chronograph hand has a gradient finish, going from light blue at its base to dark blue at its tip. Also, when the date window shows the 26th of the month, it does so in the typeface of the Milano Cortina logo. The Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 runs on the Caliber 3330, an automatic movement with over 50 hours of power reserve and COSC certification. This, of course, is not a traditionalist’s Speedy, but more akin to the “Reduced” models of an earlier era. The 38mm size is easy to...
Teddy Baldassarre
15 Best Purple-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury
Purple is the color of royalty, and it appears that a Purple Reign has started to quietly take over the watch world in recent years, with violet hues finding their way to an increasing number of dials, from a somewhat surprisingly diverse range of watch brands. Like their predecessors in green, red, and orange, purple dials are still, in fact, something of a novelty; many of the timepieces featured below are intended for a niche, limited audience. Nevertheless, the rise of purple tones on watch dials is worthy of notice, and almost certainly here to stay for a while, Here we’ve gathered 15 of our favorite purple-dial watches in ascending order of price, from under $500 to over $85K. Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Sunray Purple Dial Price: $475, Case Size: 37mm, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer a variety of them, with a subtle sunburst finish, including the purple dial watch above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design ...
Worn & Wound
From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again
At the end of summer 2014, Dad gave me my first mechanical watch. There was nothing ceremonial about it; he simply handed me the box in the car. “I’m starting a new tradition, and it’s a grown-up gift since you’re heading to college,” he said. I looked down at the box. It said Seiko. I was familiar with the brand. In fact, it was what I had been wearing up to that point: reference SNE039, a mid-sized solar-powered watch that Grandpa gave me when he saw me showing interest in it. I still have it. But this Seiko was different. It was a reference SKX173, a sibling of the beloved SKX007 dive watch that has led many a good man down the rabbit hole. It had a waterproof case, rotating dive bezel that I had no clue how to operate, and most importantly, an automatically winding movement. “It’s easy – just shake it a bit to get it going,” said Dad. (OGs will remember the caliber 7s26’s lack of hand winding). I took the watch out of the box and shuffled it back and forth gently to coax it to life. It did, and as I stared at the sweeping seconds hand, I marveled that a microscopic team of gears, levers, and springs were all working harmoniously just to tell time. As an incoming engineering student, I couldn’t have asked for a better gift. I secured the black rubber strap on my wrist, and that was that. The remainder of the summer was spent reading everything I could get my hands on about Seiko watches and mechanical timekeeping at large. The excitement of movin...
Worn & Wound
Hanhart and German Magazine Armbanduhren Unveil a Limited Edition Preventor HD12 in Purple
I’ve long had a contentious relationship with the color purple; between youth softball teams and grad school alma maters, it’s always difficult to find anything to wear with the color that isn’t immediately clashing. But purple is also a color associated with luxury and royalty, so I am approaching the new Silk Purple Hanhart Preventor HD12, a collaboration with German watch magazine Armbanduhren, with an open mind. Hanhart’s Preventor HD12 was originally launched in August 2024, and has fast become one of the Swiss-German brand’s most popular pieces. A field watch-style dial design paired with HD12 scratch-resistant steel, and powered by a Sellita caliber SW200-1 or Soprod SOP P024 automatic movement, the Preventor combines the vintage styling that Hanhart is known for with robust construction and durability. With easy-wearing case dimensions of 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, the Preventor positions itself as an everyday timekeeping watch with few complications-even lacking a date window. The HD12 steel is made scratch-resistant through a multi-stage hardening process, in which carbon is diffused into the steel and the case is covered in an additional PVD coating. Hanhart continues to tout the “hardness” factor of the Preventor by protecting the dial with a scratch-resistant convex-curved sapphire crystal. Of course, the dial is where the fun happens for this limited edition Preventor. The matte Silk Purple contrasts starkly with the white Ara...
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve
Hamilton’s Khaki Field line is the brand’s most popular and best-known collection. The outdoorsy watches are fan favorites and available in many variations. You can get a Hamilton Khaki Field in myriad sizes, with quartz, automatic, and hand-wound calibers, as well as with many dial options. But today, the brand introduces a new complication on […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve to read the full article.
Video
They don’t want these watches…
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem
Our first meeting at thai year’s Geneva Watch Days might turn out to be one of the best. Renaud Tixier launched during Watches & Wonders week of 2024 with a bold idea: seven revolutionary horological creations, released in a series of watches that will take nearly two decades to complete. Their first watch, the Monday (guess what the others will be called) is an attempt to solve the problem of the micro-rotor. While these small, often heavy rotors are wonderful for creating automatic watches that are nearly as thin as manually wound watches (and for showing off elaborate movement decoration) they are inherently inefficient. The Monday seeks to solve that problem with a completely new horological invention. The Renaud of Renaud Tixier is Dominique Renaud, the legendary watchmaker who was one half of the famed Renaud & Papi firm, who carved out a niche for themselves in the 1980s and 90s by creating ultra high end complications for the most prestigious brands. Renaud Tixier works along similar lines, but of course is a brand unto itself, and Renaud seems free to pursue whatever horological problem solving might be of interest to him. These watches, while incredibly beautiful, are ultimately for the hardcore movement nerds among us. The innovation of this first Renaud Tixier caliber is in the behavior of the micro-rotor. The brand refers to it as “the Dancer” because of the way the mechanism seems to dance at even the slightest jostle. Renaud Tixier’s micro-rotor ...
Worn & Wound
NOMOS Adds a Worldtimer to the Club Sport Line
I love a worldtimer complication, if only because it allows me to envision a timeline in which I’m a spunky world traveler who isn’t afraid of losing my passport or getting lost in the desert. Something about seeing the names of all the places I haven’t been to (yet) on my watch is a surefire cheer-up when the world inside my apartment starts feeling a little small. Pair that global functionality with mature, elegant styling, and you have the new NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer. Measuring at a democratic 40mm with an equally accessible 20m lug width, the Worldtimer’s stainless steel case is kept slim and simple-so slim, in fact, that it claims to be one of the world’s thinnest worldtimer watches. NOMOS Glashütte’s proprietary caliber DUW 3202 neomatik movement is to thank for 4.8mm of the impressive 9.9mm total thickness of the watch and is still robust enough to offer the NOMOS swing system with DUW regulation and 100m of water resistance. And while all of this is remarkable in its own right, the German brand has more than impressive mechanical achievement up its sleeve with the Worldtimer. Functionality is straightforward, and while the dial layout is a bit different from the enthusiast favorite Worldtimer NOMOS has been making for years, the pushbutton ease of cycling through world time zones will be familiar to anyone who has experienced one of those earlier watches. Just press the pusher at 2 o’clock until your current time zone is a...
Teddy Baldassarre
Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Review
Angelus is a watchmaker that many younger enthusiasts likely regard as a newcomer to the scene but actually brings to the table a rich heritage going all the way back to 1891 — as a maker of watches as well as some of the industry’s most legendary movements. Angelus calibers were used, for example, in the earliest Panerai Radiomir watches from the 1940s. Based in Le Locle, Switzerland, the firm was one of the first watchmakers to adopt the two-pusher chronograph design that had first been explored by Breitling. Its ChronoDato model, launched in 1942, and its successor in 1948, the ChronoDatoLuxe, remain among the most legendary grails for vintage chronograph collectors. When Angelus resurfaced in 2015 — now owned by the prolific Swiss movement-maker La Joux-Perret, which is part of Japan’s Citizen Watch Group — the timepieces it chose to re-establish itself in the 21st-Century marketplace proved perplexing to many longtime collectors and armchair brand historians. Watches like the somewhat bizarre-looking, sci-fi-influenced U10 Tourbillon and the huge, skeletonized U50 Diver Tourbillon seemed to indicate that the revived Angelus brand was jettisoning much of its vintage appeal to explore more avant-garde frontiers. Starting in 2022, however, with the much-praised release of the ChronoDate models, heavily inspired by the 1942 ChronoDato, Angelus has signaled a renewed interest in mining its mid-century archives, particularly in its chronograph sweet spot. The ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Alarm Watches: A Complete Guide to the Most Underappreciated Watch Com
If we're ranking watch styles by everyday practicality, it's hard to beat the alarm watch. Most of us are regularly needing reminders of appointments, events, and other commitments, and to have the source of such audible alerts right on your wrist, rather than buried in a pocket or a handbag, would seem to be the height of practicality even in today's high-tech world. Around the middle of the 20th Century, many watchmakers agreed and began to embrace the style, but alarm watches never achieved anywhere near the widespread popularity of other complications like chronographs and GMTs. Nevertheless, the alarm watch has played a significant role in horological history, and a handful of important brands have not only been instrumental in its creation and development but continue to rely on it as a major pillar of their collections today. Here is the story of how the mechanical alarm watch came to be, how it became a signature style of certain watchmakers, and how it continues to evolve today despite its niche status in the industry. Johannes Dürrstein, regarded as the inventor of the alarm watch Watches with alarm functions go back farther into horological history than most probably realize. Johannes Dürrsstein, a watchmaker in Glashütte, Germany, invented the first mass-produced, alarm-equipped pocket watch caliber in 1900. Dürrstein’s invention used an extra-long mainspring that could fuel both the timekeeping and the independent alarm hand, which was activated by a...
Worn & Wound
New Avenger Chronographs from Breitling Pay Tribute to the United States Naval Academy
Since the 1930s, the Breitling name has been synonymous with aviation, and its watches are the preferred choice for pilots worldwide, from commercial to military aviation. To commemorate its 140th anniversary of pioneering accomplishments, Breitling is introducing three new Avenger Chronographs paying tribute to the United States Naval Academy and three legendary test squadrons. Each edition showcases the squadron’s unique emblem and color scheme, reflecting its heritage and valor with striking design and uncompromising functionality. The Dust Devils VX-31, based in the desert landscape of China Lake, California, will feature assertive red and black colors. This squadron is at the forefront of U.S. naval test flying, pushing aviation to new frontiers. The Bloodhounds VX-30 are experimental test pilots of the highest order, stationed at Point Mugu, California. They push the limits of naval aviation to advance its capabilities. Their colors will be understated gray and yellow. Patriotic blue and yellow will be used for the United States Naval Academy in Annapolis, Maryland. It is America’s flagship institution for naval training. Established in 1845, it has consistently produced top-notch leaders for the global naval community. Powering this new series is the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. Known for its strength and complexity, this movement offers approximately 70 hours of power reserve, a five-year warranty, and the respected COSC certification. The display case bac...
Video
How to find a cheap watch that looks expensive
For inquiries and collabs: twtw.mike@gmail.com