Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for GPHG

306 articles found · page 10 of 11

Parmigiani Fleurier’s new calendar trio of Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier s new calendar trio Jul 14, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier’s new calendar trio of Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian

Parmigiani Fleurier flexes their watchmaking muscles with three platinum-cased calendar pieces The brand takes on the Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian calendars and executes them in their signature minimalist style Powering the Hijri Perpetual Calendar is the 2020 GPHG-winning calibre PF009 In the last few years, Parmigiani Fleurier might’ve garnered interest through their minimal, slim-wearing pieces … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier’s new calendar trio of Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article
Ming 18.01 H41 and 27.01: Revolution and Evolution - Reprise Quill & Pad
Ming 18.01 H41 Jun 25, 2023

Ming 18.01 H41 and 27.01: Revolution and Evolution - Reprise

Just when Joshua Munchow thought he was out, Ming Watches pulled him back in! The brand is (still) on a roll with two pieces having been nominated for the final round of the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève plus a new concept featuring an AgenGraphe chronograph movement by Agenhor. Here Joshua checks out the GPHG contenders, Ming's 18.01 and 27.01, two very different watches.

Read article
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out May 25, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition

The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand.  Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one.  According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...

Read article
In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel Revolution
Louis Vuitton s New High Watchmaking Mar 10, 2023

In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel

After winning the GPHG’s Audacity Prize in 2021 with the Tambour Carpe Diem, Louis Vuitton unveiled today in Courchevel the new story of La Fabrique du Temps. Four high watchmaking timepieces have been developed with exceptional complications including two automata with 5 to 7 animations and sapphire innovations. Eleonor sat down with creative genius Michel […]

Read article
Winners - 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Nov 5, 2021

Winners - 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The award ceremony of 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) just kicked off the biggest week in Geneva’s horological calendar. Widely regarded as the all-encompassing awards of watchmaking, the GPHG is made up of fourteen prizes for individual categories, plus a special prize for the watch of there year. And here are the year’s winners. Aiguille d’Or Grand Recognised for its aesthetic and technical qualities – it is the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar took home the top prize of the event. Audacity The winner certainly lives up to the name of the prize. The Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem is over the top but finely decorated in an artisanal manner, with an impressive movement that combines an automaton and minute repeater. Innovation Deserving of its prize, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most technically impressive watches of 2021. And that’s because it’s kitted out with a double-wheel escapement powered by twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism. Men’s Watch Grand Seiko’s Elegance SLGH005 “White Birch” is equipped with an impressive, latest-generation calibre, the cal. 9SA5. It was a worthy winner, though it has to be said that the competition was not especially strong this year. Launched last year for Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, the cal. 9SA5 is the brand’s highest-end mechanical movement ...

Read article
Introducing the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” - SJX Edition Two SJX Watches
Zodiac – SJX Edition Oct 25, 2021

Introducing the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” - SJX Edition Two

Like the recent Habring² Erwin “Star”, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” was conceived to encapsulate the brand’s work while being different enough to stand apart from its other watches. Limited to 21 pieces (and one prototype), the Zodiac is the first watch in the brand’s Handwerk collection that is fully engraved on the front and back – entirely hand engraved in fact, with the only machine engraving on the watch being the markings on the rim of the case back. Origins This started with the simple fact that I was impressed with the Kudoke 2 when I first saw it in 2019. The watch also won the Petite Aiguille prize at the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Equally important was the fact that I appreciate the specialised, artisanal nature of the Dresden-based brand, which is essentially a husband-and-wife enterprise led by by Stefan and Ev Kudoke. That said, I did wish the dial of the Kudoke 2 had more detail. And at the same time, Kudoke historically specialised in hand-engraved movements, which made it was obvious the solution was to enhance the Kudoke 2 with engraved decoration. “Kudoke” is hand engraved on the applied plaque whereas on the standard model it is machine engraved The starting point of the Zodiac was the day-and-night indicator on the standard Kudoke 2 – it is my favourite element and had to be retained. And its celestial-Art Deco would influence the rest of the Zodiac’s design. The day and night scale with a tiny crescent at 12 ...

Read article
Greubel Forsey goes vegan and will no longer use animal-based leather Time+Tide
Greubel Forsey goes vegan Jun 29, 2021

Greubel Forsey goes vegan and will no longer use animal-based leather

Greubel Forsey, creators of last year’s thought-provoking Hand Made One and regular winners of GPHG honours, are known for their intricate craftsmanship and small production runs. But the brand have announced that, from 2022, they will no longer be using animal-based leather for any of their straps and will commit to using 100% plant-based leather … ContinuedThe post Greubel Forsey goes vegan and will no longer use animal-based leather appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article
DOXA expands their US retail presence in partnership with Watches of Switzerland Time+Tide
Doxa expands their US retail Apr 3, 2021

DOXA expands their US retail presence in partnership with Watches of Switzerland

DOXA has enjoyed a notable resurgence over the last few years, the famed diver’s watch brand coming in strong in 2021 with a standard production line of carbon SUB 300 divers to follow up the 2020 GPHG-nominated limited edition. While DOXA watches have a cult following within the watch community, their modern timepieces are typically … ContinuedThe post DOXA expands their US retail presence in partnership with Watches of Switzerland appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article
Genus Bestows a Dragon on the Figure-of-8 Display SJX Watches
Urwerk so Genus Apr 3, 2021

Genus Bestows a Dragon on the Figure-of-8 Display

A young company founded just two years ago, Genus is all about exotic expressions of time. Though the brand is young, Genus cofounder Sébastien Billières is an industry veteran, having established a workshop that specialises in producing complicated movements for major brands exactly a decade ago. The brand made its debut with the GNS1 – essentially a time-only watch made ultra complicated by virtue of its unique time display – a snaking procession of pointers travelling in a figure of eight that create a dynamic tension unlike anything else. Genus has now taken the concept further with the GNS Dragon, which layers a miniature sculpture over the original in the form of a segmented gold dragon. Initial thoughts The rise of independent watchmakers with atypical time displays started two decades ago – personified by brands like Urwerk – so Genus is rather late to the game, but it still made an impressive entrance. The original GNS1 was a fresh perspective in a crowded arena, the very sort of diversity that makes this hobby fun. And the GNS1 is a serious watch in terms of quality and construction – it also did win the Mechanical Exception award at the 2019 GPHG. While the focal point is the intriguing time display, the movement finishing is excellent; not quite artisanal haute horlogerie like Akrivia, for instance, but nevertheless done by hand and done well, particularly in the genre of avant-garde watches. Made of solid 18k gold, the bridges have wide, polish...

Read article
Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Piaget  Altiplano Ultimate Concept Nov 13, 2020

Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Having just taken place in Geneva and broadcast live, the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony anointed most of the year’s best watches. Whittled down from a large selection to candidates that were evaluated by an all-Swiss jury instead of the usual cosmopolitan mix due to travel restrictions, eighteen watches (and one watchmaker) received prizes. A handful of them are worth a look as worthy winners – albeit winning by default in some of the less competitive categories – as well as a notable watch that did not win but should have. Awarded to the best watch of the contest, the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, went to the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The thinnest mechanical watch on the market, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) is the culmination of all the progress in ultra-thin watchmaking over the last several decades. At an unreal 2 mm high, the AUC pushes engineering to the cutting edge, albeit at an extremely high price. While there were other watches in the competition that could reasonably be candidates for the Aiguille d’Or, the AUC has earned it. The Piaget AUC Complications and revelations Another prestigious award is the Horological Revelation Prize, which is awarded at the discretion of the jury to watch made by a nascent brand. It went to the Petermann Bédat 1967, unquestionably one of the highlights of independent watchmaking this year. Well deserving of the prize, the 1967 is simply marvellous (we explain why here). Thoug...

Read article
Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Nocturne SJX Watches
Ming simplicity yet equipped Jul 6, 2020

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Nocturne

German independent watchmaker had a hit when it debuted the Kudoke 2 last year. Combining hand-engraved decor with an affordable price tag, the watch was well received by enthusiasts while also enjoying critical acclaim, winning the Petite Aiguille – the category for watches under 10,000 Swiss francs – at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The Kudoke 2 Nocturne is a limited edition variant of the standard model in a run of only 20 pieces, a nod to the 20th year of this century. While the standard version features a silver-and-gold palette, the Nocturne is dressed in shades of grey, both on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts The Kudoke 2 was one of last year’s more compelling watches for me. Not only is it priced well, but the watch has a refined yet German aesthetic that’s pleasing. The watch is clean, with no superfluous elements to distract from its charming simplicity, yet equipped with several attractive classical details. And the Nocturne has a slightly more modern look than the original, despite having the same design. The movement, developed with the help of Habring2, has a unique style and excellent finish, especially considering the price of €8,665, or a little under US$10,000, which is the same price as standard version. With artful hand engraving and an original movement, the watch screams value proposition. A new face Having an identical design as the standard model, the Nocturne retains the clean, symmetrical look of the...

Read article
Kudoke 2 Nocturne: A New Edition With Handcrafted Movement, Artistic Dial, And Sensational Value Quill & Pad
Jul 6, 2020

Kudoke 2 Nocturne: A New Edition With Handcrafted Movement, Artistic Dial, And Sensational Value

Stefan Kudoke’s time has arrived. All the long years of learning, obsessing, wondering, and hard work are now paying off for the German watchmaker and engraver, whose gorgeous Kudoke 2 won the Petite Aiguille award at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). And Elizabeth Doerr finds the brand-new Kudoke 2 Nocturne just as enchanting; she explains why here.

Read article
Pandemic Truths - Rexhep Rexhepi SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Amongst independent watchmakers Rexhep Apr 23, 2020

Pandemic Truths - Rexhep Rexhepi

Amongst independent watchmakers, Rexhep Rexhepi has found swift and significant success since he founded Akrivia, now one of the hottest niche brands. After his Chronomètre Contemporain took the prize of best men’s watch at the 2018 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), collectors have been eagerly anticipating his next creation – which is on track despite the pandemic-induced disruptions. How has the COVID-19 coronavirus affected Akrivia? Now still crafting watches in his workshop at the heart of Geneva’s Old Town, Rexhep answers. Rexhep, still at the workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. Photo – Rexhep Rexhepi What impact has the crisis has on your business? The first impact was human. A month ago, when social distancing was first implemented in Switzerland, the atmosphere was grim. I could feel employees’ morale was affected; their motivation was low. I offered them the choice to stay home with partial unemployment or keep coming to the atelier, while respecting all health and hygiene measures, of course. Most of them opted to keep working, so we are still open at the moment and working almost normally. Even my partner [Jean-Pierre] Hagmann is back now. Production-wise, we feared for some of our subcontractors, like the [specialist that does] rhodium plating for example, but they are also working, even if only part time, for one week out of every two. But since we have [vertically] integrated a lot of our production, like making our own cases, and we have...

Read article
Hands-On: Romain Gauthier Logical One Byzantine SJX Watches
Mar 18, 2020

Hands-On: Romain Gauthier Logical One Byzantine

The Romain Gauthier Logical One was launched in 2013 to critical acclaim, and clinched the year’s award for Best Men’s Complication at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). While centred on the very old idea of a chain and fusée, the Logical One stood in contrast to contemporary wristwatches with the same complication. Other watchmakers sought, single-mindedly, to miniaturise the chain and fusée – doubtlessly a feat of micro-engineering – but Romain Gauthier took a step forward and developed a truly modern incarnation of the constant-force mechanism that originated in the 15th century. And contrary to well-known makers of the chain and fusée today, most notably A. Lange & Söhne, Romain Gauthier ensured the chain and fusée in the Logical One is entirely visible on the dial. Since its debut, the Logical One has been iterated multiple times, with variations covering the spectrum from traditional to ultra-contemporary. The attractiveness of the many versions vary – some are overdone – while others are a perfect fit for the impressive movement. One that works perfectly is the unique Logical One Byzantine that has the striking combination of a blue enamel dial and movement bridges bridges engraved with a motif inspired by Byzantine art. (Though this specific combination is unique, similar-looking examples have been produced, for instance with blue sub-dials but without engraving.) Case and architecture Due to the complex architecture of the movemen...

Read article
First look at the DOXA SUB 200 on summer-ready rubber straps Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 Feb 6, 2020

First look at the DOXA SUB 200 on summer-ready rubber straps

The GPHG-nominated DOXA SUB 200 has succeeded in capturing the watch world’s attention since its unveiling at Baselworld 2019, what with its vibrant dial options, 200 metres of water resistance, and fetching, vintage-inspired 42mm stainless steel case. There was just one niggling issue for some - the beads of rice bracelet was perhaps a tad … ContinuedThe post First look at the DOXA SUB 200 on summer-ready rubber straps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article
These were 5 of the best new Seiko watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Seiko watches Jan 11, 2020

These were 5 of the best new Seiko watches of 2019

Where to begin with Seiko in 2019? The Japanese watchmaker has been on a veritable roll for quite some time now, but for the last year of the decade, they really delivered. Whether it be the new Prospex LX Line Diver taking home the prestigious award for best Diver’s watch at GPHG 2019, a completely … ContinuedThe post These were 5 of the best new Seiko watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article
AP expert @horoloupe warns against writing off the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 First Jan 8, 2020

AP expert @horoloupe warns against writing off the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59

First of all, I think it is wonderful news for Audemars Piguet to have had such a strong run at GPHG and Only Watch, but to be completely honest, I expected it. The RD2 winning the Aiguille d’Or was no surprise to me as it is hands down one of the favourite watches in my … ContinuedThe post AP expert @horoloupe warns against writing off the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article
Introducing the Winners of the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin clinched Nov 8, 2019

Introducing the Winners of the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

This year’s GPHG saw a total of no less than 196 watches entered into the running for one of the night’s awards. The jury, presided over by Aurel Bacs, then pre-selected 84 models, divided into 14 categories. The latter included four new awards – the Iconic Watch, Diver’s Watch, Calendar and Astronomy and Horological Revelation. The outcome is similar to last year’s, with a strong ratio of independents among the winners. Out of 18 watch awards, eight were awarded to independents including Kudoke (Petite Aiguille), Ming (Horological Revelation) and newcomer Genus, (Mechanical Exception), while virtuoso watchmaker Voutilainen scooped two awards (Men’s Watch and Artistic Crafts). The biggest winner of the evening was Audemars Piguet who took home three awards including the top prize – the Aiguille d’Or – for its Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The watch is the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar at just 6.3mm in height, achieved primarily by using a modified ultra-thin cal. 2120 as a base with a smartly designed perpetual calendar module on top that has an integrated end-of-month cam on the date wheel and a 48-month wheel with a novel geometry. Elsewhere, having lost to Genus in the Mechanical Exception category, Vacheron Constantin clinched the Innovation award with its Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar. The watch addresses the problem of having to reset a perpetual calendar that has lain dormant. It utilises two balances osci...

Read article
EVENT: An evening exploring why Chopard is a brand watch people are getting excited about Time+Tide
Chopard Dec 9, 2018

EVENT: An evening exploring why Chopard is a brand watch people are getting excited about

Late last week, Time+Tide was honoured to co-host an exclusive event at the Sydney Chopard boutique that centred around a tour of the key features of a genuine rockstar of a watch – the 2017 GPHG Aiguille d’Or winner, the extraordinary Chopard L.U.C Full Strike. Also attending the event were members of the Trivett Bespoke … ContinuedThe post EVENT: An evening exploring why Chopard is a brand watch people are getting excited about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article