Hodinkee
A Reader Asks, 'Are ETA Movements Ever OK In High-End Watchmaking?'
To an important degree, the answer is that it's the wrong question to ask in the first place.
Results for Powermatic 80 (ETA C07.111)
1,041 articles · 40 videos found · page 10 of 37
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 111: The Isolation Tapes // Tudor
So you wanna talk sport watches, eh?
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002
Of the half-dozen commemorative editions Grand Seiko is rolling out to mark its 60th anniversary, one watch is significant over all the others, because it has a brand-new calibre that represents the first of a new generation of movements. A complete rethink of the 9S family of movements – first unveiled 22 years ago – the 9SA5 makes its debut in the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SLGH002). While the movement is cutting-edge for the brand, the design of the SLGH002 is a throwback to vintage Grand Seiko – the dial emulates the aesthetics of the first Grand Seiko 3180 of 1960 but with a modern twist, namely with widened hands and hour markers. As a result, the dial is quintessential Grand Seiko, having a sculptural quality thanks to the broad dauphine hands and substantial, applied 18k gold hour markers. Even the frame around the date window is 18k gold. The star above six o’clock indicates “SD”, or “special dial”, which means gold hour markers (and sometimes a gold dial) Made of 18k yellow gold, the case has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.7 mm. Most of its surfaces have a brushed finish, interspersed with wide, faceted bevels that are mirror polished. The watch is notably thin for a self-winding Grand Seiko – the typical high-frequency Grand Seiko has a case just over 13 mm high – as a result of the new 9SA5 movement, which is the work of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (formerly known as the Shizukuishi Watch Studio). ...
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 80: Phil Toledano And Big Baselworld News
From funky quartz Pateks to egocentric video art, we cover it all.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tissot Gentleman With Powermatic Movement
A steal in steel.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Pilot's Watch Timezoner Chronograph Edition '80 Years Flight To New York'
A horological commemoration of a French flying boat's first transatlantic passage.
Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 80: Vintage Cool Or Too Cool To Wear?
The boys weigh in on the idea of an old watch becoming too valuable to be treated like a real watch.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #111 Burning Through A $25 Amazon Gift Card
So... what is the best way to burn through a $25 Amazon gift card you got for the holidays. It's time to sit down and figure it out. The guys discover a few digital Casios and princess watches, find some rubber duckies, and come up with the idea of pitching horological sex toys to watch brands. Be sure to share your ideas for burning through a $25 Amazon gift card!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. 80 - Giveaways, Watch Marketing, and the Most Legendary Wrist Check Ever
Join the guys for one of the most significant moments in TBWS history. Kaz finally bit the bullet and snagged a clean, crispy Slava medical! He gives us an account of what it was like purchasing the watch and how it feels now that the hunt is finally over. Meanwhile, Mike is still enjoying one of his quartz favorites and the snobs discuss one of the finer things in life... high-end sweatpants, of course.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Tissot Visodate Returns to Its Roots, with a Cleaner Dial and a Sub-$1K Price
New 39mm Tissot Visodate editions arrive in silver, blue, and black with a Powermatic 80 movement offering 80 hours of power reserve.
Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Just Re-Released The Very First G-Shock
Casio's G-Shock brand is celebrating a big birthday this year. And much like many industries, it is taking its 40th anniversary as a chance to look to the past, to get nostalgic, to wax digital. The thing is, while a brand like TAG Heuer can make a statement with the launch of the KITH F1 watches in near ‘80-faithful form, or even one like Timex can reissue the IronMan in a 1:1 configuration (JDM only; sorry, USA), Casio is in a bit of tough spot…for a good reason. I think of the G-Shock like the affordable, digital version of the Omega Speedmaster "Moonwatch," a watch whose design has been altered but, in many ways, has effectively been in uninterrupted production since the 1960s – and we love it for that reason. Similarly, through models like the modern DW-5600, Casio has been producing some manner of the original G-Shock since, um, the birth of G-Shock four decades ago. And again, we love that. I mean, people really love that. I even own a DW-5600 and I’m not what you might call a G-Shock guy, or a G-shocker, or whatever it is you call it (to be honest, people probably don’t call it anything). This has been a deeply circuitous route to saying that the brand has released a throwback G-Shock to celebrate its own birthday which is essentially a reissue of the very first G-Shock. And all of my preamble is to illustrate that, at first blush, you probably don’t notice anything massive here. But like any release worthy of watch nerdery, the devil is in the resin...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Praesidus C-47 A-11 D-Day - A Watch Made Out Of D-Day History
On the 6th of June this year, it will have been exactly 80 years since D-Day took place on the beaches of Normandy. By that day’s end, 156,000 Allied troops successfully stormed the French beaches during Operation Overlord. To commemorate this historic day, Praesidus releases the special C-47 A-11 D-Day. This version of the brand’s […] Visit Hands-On With The Praesidus C-47 A-11 D-Day - A Watch Made Out Of D-Day History to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon EOD
We go hands on with the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon EOD to see just how robust this tool watch really is! What We Love Its “Bullet Proof” buildThe micro gas lights and lumeIngenious shock-resistant systems What We Don’t The size as it wears larger than the specs suggestMix of titanium and steel feels a little oddThe clasp isn’t as comfortable and could be better designed Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Ball is one of those brands that’s been around for a long while, since 1891 in fact, and probably doesn’t get as much credit as they deserve. Many brands are in the same boat unfortunately, but this is the world we live in. A big part of that is to do with marketing to be honest, and the rest is down to the watches, design, current trends, and culture. It all plays a part. Ball is a brand that was born out of the American railroad era. Similar to other brands that got their start or came to prominence as a result, like Hamilton, Waltham, and others if I can draw that association. For those who aren’t familiar with this era in watchmaking, here’s a very quick history lesson. Back in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, the United States was going through its industrial revolution. A big part of that was the American railway – all industries relied on this to get supplies for manufacturing, agriculture, building etc from one coast to the other. And this meant that the trains had to run in time and like...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Patek Philippe Worldtime with Date 5330G
With a legacy extending over 80 years, including the renowned Cottier watches, Worldtimers stand out as one of Patek Philippe’s quintessential complications. Patek Philippe was the brand to reintroduce this complication in 2000 with the unveiling of the 5110 model. Subsequently, the 5110 was succeeded by the 5130 in 2006, which in turn was replaced […]
SJX Watches
Tissot Debuts New Green Dials for the PRX
A bestseller thanks to its integrated-bracelet design and accessible price, the Tissot PRX now gets more new dial options, including a “light green” hue for the time-only PRX Powermatic 80 and a “graded” green for the PRX Chronograph. The new green dials join the recent blue dial options and more compact 35mm model. Initial thoughts The new models are only cosmetic updates, but are otherwise the same. The brushed steel cases and ETA movements remain unchanged. So do the respective prices, making them the same value propositions as before. Notably, the chronograph dial gets a more substantive cosmetic upgrade beyond the colour. It now sports the waffle-patterned dial previously found only on the PRX time-only models. This is an attractive upgrade that imbues the model with a sportier aesthetic. New dial options The Powermatic 80’s dial features the same waffle pattern found in past models, but now finished in a “light” green hue that first seen on the quartz version released in 2021. The chronograph dial is presented in a darker shade of green with a gradient finish. It also gains the same stamped pattern found on the time-only model. This marks a departure from previous iterations of the chronograph, which were characterised by a vertically brushed finish with a two-colour scheme. Both watches retain the same case dimensions and movements found on earlier models. The three-hander is powered by the Powermatic 80.111, derived from the ETA C07.111. Tissot has e...
Time+Tide
Certina’s new all-purpose DS Action 34.5mm shows good things come in small packages
Certina is introducing a small wrist-friendly version of their capable DS Action diver in 34.5mm The collection consists of five references with classically coloured lacquer or blingier mother-of-pearl dials As part of the Swatch Group, Certina has access to the ever-popular ETA Powermatic 80, choosing it to power this new release Often overlooked for its … ContinuedThe post Certina’s new all-purpose DS Action 34.5mm shows good things come in small packages appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu Launch Legare with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted
Just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, we see the debut of a new haute horlogerie brand, brought to us in part by Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and the Rake, and a longtime fixture in the watch media landscape. The new brand, Legare, was founded by Koh and Guillaume Tetu, a watch industry veteran who counts Hautlence as well as TAG Heuer and Ralph Lauren on his resume. Koh and Tetu are incredibly well connected professionally, and the first watch out of the gate for Legare reflects that particularly well – this is the product of a lot of collaboration between many partners, and has plenty of pure watch nerd DNA in its inspiration as well. The brand’s first watch is the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, and takes inspiration from a rare pocket watch made by Albert-Gustave Piguet, who would ultimately become well known in the watch industry for his work on the Lemania 2310 caliber. But the watch that Legare credits with shaping the Chapter 1 is a pocket watch he created while a student at the Vallee de Joux School of Watchmaking in 1932, when he was just 17 years old. That watch featured two large split bi-metallic balance wheels, whose rates were averaged by a differential. According to Legare, only six total examples of this pocket watch were completed. Legare’s conceit in making the Chapter 1 is essentially an answer to the hypothetical question of what if Piguet’s idea behind this movement had continued to evolve? This is an entirely original movement architecture (and diff...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted - The First Watch From A New Brand By Wei Koh And Guillaume Tetu
What We Know If you've been on "Watch Instagram" since Watches & Wonders, you've likely seen today's big launch. From the minds of Wei Koh and industry insider Guillaume Tetu, the new brand Legare (from the Latin meaning "to bequeath") has been shared around during an extended soft launch to potential clients and some press, starting back during the big watch fair. However, their first watch, the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, didn't officially launch until today, so if you've been looking for coverage and not finding it, that's why. The Chapter 1 AGP Inverted comes in two distinct executions and immediately caught my attention because of the reference that inspired it (and from which it takes its name). Because of that, it's a watch expressly made for deep-cut watch enthusiasts who know their history and appreciate independent watchmaking. In 1932, a 17-year-old student named Albert-Gustave Piguet undertook a watchmaking challenge that only five others at the Vallée de Joux School of Watchmaking would do from 1932 to 1934: he made a pocket watch regulated by two large split bimetallic balance wheels, averaged by a differential. These six examples are as coveted as they are influential to the watchmaking space. One inspired Philippe Dufour's "Duality." Even more influential was Piguet himself, who later worked at Lemania and on the caliber 2310. Now, his double-balance watch has been revived again by Legare. The watch closely resembles the movement of the Piguet pocket watch, wi...
WatchRider
Kanoa Igarashi’s Fourth G-Shock G-LIDE Is Ready for Surf and Training
Most surf watches stop after telling you when the tide is coming in. The new G-Shock G-LIDE GBX-H5600KI-5 also checks your heart, studies your sleep and expects you to catch the next wave. Casio has released its fourth signature watch with Japanese professional surfer Kanoa Igarashi. The GBX-H5600KI-5 is based on the heart-rate-equipped G-LIDE GBX-H5600, but its brown marbled body and soft purple details give it a look that is easy to separate from the standard models. A colour scheme inspired by Portugal The mixed brown colour is inspired by the cliffs and rocky coast around Ericeira, Portugal, one of Igarashi’s training bases. Casio mixes different colours of bio-based resin during production, so the streaks and marks will not be identical on every watch. That gives each example a slightly different surface pattern without pretending that the watch is hand-finished. The lavender details are a smart contrast to the dark case. A purple vapor-deposited finish around the display is meant to recall the sea during the early morning and evening magic hours. Igarashi’s signature sits below the screen and also appears on the back. His World Surf League competition number, 50, is printed on the lower part of the band. Built for the water, but useful away from it The case measures 51.1mm long, 44.5mm wide and 17.3mm thick. That is a large watch on paper, although 47 grams is impressively light for a G-Shock with an optical heart-rate sensor. The carbon-fibre-reinforced resin ba...
WatchRider
Casio Launches Master in Horizon Gold G-Shock Trio
Casio has officially introduced Master in Horizon Gold, a three-watch G-Shock collection that gives the Gravitymaster, Mudmaster and Mudman the same brown and light-gold finish. The models are the GR-B300H-5A, GG-B100XMH-5A and GW-9500MH-5. They look related, but their functions are very different. One is made for flying, one for connected outdoor tracking and one for solar-powered navigation without a phone. One Colour Scheme, Three Different G-Shocks The collection takes its name from the line where the earth appears to meet the sky. Dark brown bio-based resin bands and cases are combined with light yellow-gold ion-plated bezels. Smaller metal parts use brown ion plating and the warm colour scheme looks unusual without hiding the tough Master of G character. Every model is shock resistant and rated to 200 metres. Mudmaster GG-B100XMH-5A The GG-B100XMH-5A measures 55.4 x 51.3 x 19.4 mm and weighs 104 g. Its bio-based carbon case uses the Carbon Core Guard structure, while a stainless-steel bezel and reinforced case back add protection. Mud resistance, mineral glass and a two-year CR2025 battery make it the only non-solar model in the trio. The GG-B100XMH-5A is the connected Mudmaster in the collection. Image: Casio. It combines a compass, altimeter, barometer and thermometer with a step counter. Bluetooth links it to the Casio Watches app for automatic time correction, around 300 world-time cities, Mission Log, Location Memory and phone finder. Other tools include sunrise...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport Chronograph
What We Know It's been a while since we've heard from Autodromo. The motorsports-inspired boutique brand is a longtime favorite of many here at Hodinkee. Heck, we did a pretty cool LE with them back in 2023, featuring a special-edition series of Group B Chronographs. That same year, the brand unveiled its Group C, a watch that captured the spirit of digital '80s watches rather nicely. Today, Autodromo is launching its first totally new model since then. Meet the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport, a fresh take on the practical analog-digital (ana-digi) watches like the Tissot Two Timer, the Heuer Manhattan Chronosplit GMT, and, of course, Breitling's Aerospace and Pluton that once adorned wrists behind the wheel and at the track a couple of decades back. The case is 38.5 millimeters in diameter and made from anodized aluminum – that's the alloy that your BMX bike parts used to be made from back in the day – or at least mine were. The new Group C Turbo comes in three anodized aluminum flavors, clear, grey, and gold. Each has a stainless steel caseback and features a grid dial that's meant to evoke the tachymeter instruments of the Group C Turbo racing era that ran from the early 1980s until about 1993, and was defined by European endurance events including the 24 hours of Le Mans. The Group C cars of the era that inspired these watches featured clean lines, ground effects that delivered high downforce, and turbochargers, offering outsized horsepower that demanded physi...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co
What We Know Today, Zenith introduces a new "Double Signed" program for its Calibre 135-powered G.F.J. collection, and its first entry in this series is a collaboration with a Japanese independent that might not require all that much introduction around these parts—Naoya Hida. The evolution of the G.F.J. line has not taken all that long, with its origins starting in 2022 with the Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire Limited Edition, where ten Calibre 135 movements from the 50s were restored by Kari Voutilainen and introduced in watches done as a triple collaboration between Zenith, Voutilainen, and auction house Phillips. Just three years later, the Calibre 135 was revived as a modern caliber for a line called the G.F.J. (after Zenith's founder Georges Favre Jacot). In just a little over a year, we've seen three small runs of this watch introduced in different stone-dial and metal combinations—platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, tantalum with an onyx dial, and an upcoming yellow-gold GFJ with a bloodstone dial. In the meantime, this new Double Signed concept with Naoya Hida takes the G.F.J. in a very different visual direction. The hefty 39.15mm platinum case, with a thickness of 10.5mm and a compact lug-to-lug of 45.75mm, remains the same as other G.F.J. models. But that dial is unabashedly Naoya Hida, constructed out of solid silver with the distinctive hand engraving coming from the hand of master engraver Keisuke Kano, the man responsible for the hand engraving across al...
Time+Tide
Zenith collaborates with Naoya Hida to create a co-signed interpretation of the G.F.J.
We are seeing a rare Switzerland and Japan team-up, with Zenith unveiling a collaboration with another enthusiast favourite: Naoya Hida & Co.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Armoury And Naoya Hida & Co. Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers"
What We Know Usually, we only get one round of Naoya Hida & Co. releases each year, as the company manufactures so few watches per year (though that number is increasing) that one round of releases of 10+ models with around 10 watches per model per year is about the maximum. So imagine my surprise when we got a press release about a new collaboration between Hida-san and his retailer, The Armoury, to be released after the initial wave of releases. They've collaborated before (their "Lettercutter" is one of Hida's most beloved watches). This new release, the Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers," is by far the most unusual and imaginative Naoya Hida watch yet. The watch uses a high-polish stainless steel Type 4 case (36mm by 42.9mm lug-to-lug, 11mm thick) with a central seconds hand, keeping the dial free for artistic expression. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, and designer Elliot Hammer say that they were inspired by decorative ornithological dials, botanical motifs, and nature scenes. As ornithology is the study of birds, my thought immediately went to "singing bird boxes," but hey, I didn't make the watch, so no one asked me. Hammer, who travels to Japan often, said he was taken by their attention to space and timelessness, and in the press release says, "if there are feathers, there must have also once been a bird." Rationale for the design aside, Naoya Hida & Co. has the benefit of a talented in-house engraver, Keisuke Kano, and used the bead-blasted Argentium silver di...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Refined C63 Sealander GMT May Be the Best Christopher Ward Yet
Christopher Ward refined nearly every detail of the C63 Sealander GMT for 2026, and the result might be the most irresistible version yet.
Fratello
Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015
Every year, Patek Philippe unveils an abundance of releases during Watches and Wonders. This year, it was no different, with the number of new watches far exceeding 20. I always go over all the new introductions in detail after the show because only then do I have the time to reflect on them. As a […] Visit Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015 to read the full article.
Deployant
Live from WWG26: new releases from Parmigiani
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Parmigiani celebrates the 30th anniversary of the founding this year. Here is our highlight for WWG26 as we got our hands-on, and as usual with our live products. First up Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux. Read our commentary with the release details. This chronograph looks like a three hand time only watch, replete with the standard [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases from Parmigiani appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Deployant
Live from WWG26: Rolex new releases
Our next live update is the WWG26 novelties from Rolex. Please find our commentary and release details on this article published yesterday.
SJX Watches
In Depth: The Horological Evolution of Jacob & Co.
Since “Jacob and Jeweller” made its first foray into fine watchmaking two decades ago, Jacob & Co. has positioned itself as a master of maximalism in all its forms, both bejewelled and technical, with some of the brands’s most audacious creations free of gem-setting entirely. The story of Jacob & Co.’s rise as an independent watchmaker features a celebrated cast of constructors. While other brands focused on vertical integration, Jacob & Co. opted to become a patron of promising complication specialists and independent watchmakers, funding their visions while challenging them with its own. Now, 20 years on, Jacob & Co. has evolved into a major player in the ultra-high end watchmaking segment, and is one of the fastest growing brands in an otherwise downbeat market; according to the brand, its 2025 watch sales were close to CHF300 million at retail. The brand’s obvious success is due to both its astute commercial instincts, founder Jacob Arabo’s inimitable personality, and also its ability to bring technically demanding movements to market and iterate on them with remarkable regularity. The gongs of a minute repeating Astronomia, one of the line’s many flankers. Few brands have managed to build credibility in both jewellry and watchmaking simultaneously. On the occasion of the brand’s 40th anniversary, it’s worth looking at how Jacob & Co. has succeeded where others have failed. Chapter 1: The Quenttin Jacob & Co.’s first 20 years were somewhat quiet on...
Monochrome
First Look - The Watch Ho & Co x Selten Jui Bauhinia in Pink and Purple Mother-of-Pearl
The original Jui came out last year as a collaboration between Hong Kong-based Watch Ho & Co(mmunity) and microbrand Selten, and it did not stay under the radar for long. It was one of those watches that quietly hit the sweet spot, with a detailed dial and a strong concept at a price that felt […]