Hodinkee
Introducing: J.N. Shapiro's First Complication, A Monopusher Chronograph
Made for the Boston-based independent collectors' group Escapement, the new watch sets the stage for future releases from Shapiro.
595 articles · 1 video found · page 10 of 20
Hodinkee
Made for the Boston-based independent collectors' group Escapement, the new watch sets the stage for future releases from Shapiro.
SJX Watches
Appointed to the top job at Breguet just under a year ago, Gregory Kissling trained as a movement constructor and spent most of his career leading Omega’s product development. A native of the Vallee de Joux, Mr Kissling is now in charge of one of the most revered names in watchmaking, which this year celebrates its 250th year. Aided by his background in product and long tenure at Swatch Group, the parent of Breguet, Mr Kissling is off to a running start. He has already made his mark with anniversary editions like the Classic Souscription, a simple but smart creation I rate highly, and holds ambitions to elevate the brand to where it should be. He was recently in Singapore to open Breguet’s new boutique in Ion Orchard, a mall on the city’s premier shopping street, and I got my first face-to-face with him since he assumed the role. We discussed his plans for the brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, ranging from an increased emphasis on artisanal craft, to Breguet design, and even one-off or custom watches. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: You have one of the most interesting and exciting jobs in the Swiss watch industry; you have taken over one of its greatest brands. Gregory Kissling (GK): It is a fantastic brand and every day I learn something new [about its history]. The heritage and legacy are immense. And also the fact that Breguet has a true manufacture – we produce everything in house but also thanks to the sister company of Swatch Grou...
Teddy Baldassarre
Here’s the headline: this summer, the namesake and flagbearer of the Glashütte watchmaking region, Glashütte Original, has opened its own, dedicated dial manufacture. You might be asking yourself, “I thought G.O. already did everything in-house, what’s the deal?” And while you would be right to ask, the basis of the question is also correct. Glashütte Original, while owned by Swatch Group, does, in fact, “do everything in-house,” or to be more specific: 95% of everything. However, up to this point, the dials for G.O. watches were made in a facility six hours away in Pforzheim. This move has brought production to a 5,000-plus-square-foot facility that is just a quick float down the babbling Muglitz River - 450 meters, to be exact. In a market where collectors are placing increasing importance on “in-house” everything, this is a big move for a company that has been preaching the Homemade Gospel from the Saxon hilltops for decades. Not only does this allow for more agile production timelines, but it increases G.O.’s production capabilities as a whole. G.O. brought me to Germany to see the new facility and to tour the full manufacture as well. In addition to the photos here, which won’t tell the full story, we also have a full video touring the manufacture. This sort of care for detail and attention to craftsmanship is deeply ingrained in the region, and in Glashütte Original as a brand. The people at this manufacture take the namesake very seriously...
Monochrome
Back in 1972, Porsche Design introduced the Chronograph I, the first all-black watch inspired by Porsche cockpit gauges. By 1975, the design evolved into brushed stainless steel. This year, to mark the brand´s retail partnership with the Watches of Switzerland Group, the new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1975 Limited Edition swaps steel for bare, […]
Worn & Wound
I occasionally find myself looking for a good excuse to write about some of my favorite watches, as doing so with some context feels too self-satisfying. This excuse can be a guide, a group editorial, or, as in the case today, a marginally new version of an existing watch that I adore, but haven’t had the chance to divulge my feelings on adequately. That watch is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, as today, Lange has announced the Zeitwerk Date in rose gold. While certainly exciting for people who said, “If only this watch came in rose gold” as a topic for a whole article, a new case metal is a bit lacking. Conveniently, I have a lot to say about the Zeitwerk in general. There was a time not that long ago when asked what my “grail watch” was, my default answer was the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. Why? Few watches mix the classic and the contemporary quite so well. They’re unique, handsome, and ooze tasteful luxury. They aren’t blingy or ostentatious. Additionally, nearly any watch enthusiast appreciates them, so it was an answer that didn’t require much explanation. However, as my knowledge of watches has grown, another aspect has emerged that I find fascinating: the complexity it takes to create something that seems so simple. If jump hours are a rare complication, jump minutes are unicorns. The only other I’m aware of is the IWC Tribute to Pallweber. Although the idea seems simple enough, making a disk jump once a minute, two disks every ten, and three disk...
Monochrome
The luxury industry is impacted by the slowing global economy, changes in consumer behaviour and tariff wars. In this challenging environment, the world’s leading luxury group reported a slight drop in revenues and profit for the first half of 2025. Over the period, LVMH recorded revenue of EUR 39.8 billion (-4%). At EUR 9.012 billion, the […]
Monochrome
Credor is often regarded as being a connaisseur’s brand, one of those beguiling watchmakers known and appreciated by a small group of deeply devoted watch collectors and enthusiasts. Part of the Seiko corporation, Credor represents the high-end side of the company, combining the most special traditional craftsmanship techniques with Japanese watchmaking artistry. Although it has […]
Hodinkee
The group of 20 semi-finalists spans the globe, with some familiar young faces and some new names you probably haven't heard before.
Monochrome
Legacies are created over time and with vision. A vision shared by a group of like-minded men and/or women, or an individual refusing to let go of it and go above and beyond to see it materialised. One such individual is Mansour Ojjeh, the Paris-born Saudi businessman and passionate lover of cars, who sadly passed […]
Monochrome
It’s been several years since the Swiss abandoned the truly affordable, sub-400-euro mechanical watch category. Once a gateway to Swiss mechanical watchmaking at reasonable prices, lower-end Swatch Group brands (Tissot and Hamilton) are now priced above that range. This situation, however, has been extremely beneficial to two Japanese giants, a sort of duopoly composed of […]
Fratello
Last month, I had the opportunity to attend Soccer Aid, a charitable football match held at Old Trafford in Manchester. Norqain was the official timing partner of the event and invited a group of people to see the game and hear about the brand’s official UK launch. During the evening, we sat down with CEO […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Launched by former Phillips and Richemont executives, Marteau & Co. will compensate independent watchmakers directly when their watches are sold on its auction platform.
Fratello
Well, well, well… It appears that Certina isn’t standing still and allowing microbrands to have all the fun with color. The new DS-X GMT collection consists of five new models. One visited us at Fratello HQ, and it marks a real departure for Certina and the Swatch Group in general. Gear up for fun, affordable, […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorful New Certina DS-X GMT to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Wright departs AP while Bonay steps down from Panerai post after nearly three decades with Richemont.
Fratello
If we polled a large group of die-hard watch fans and asked them to associate a word with Breitling, the answer would be something like “pilot” or “chronograph.” However, if we were to run the same experiment among the general populace, a surprisingly different answer might emerge. It turns out that diving and, in particular, […] Visit Introducing: The Revamped Breitling Superocean Heritage Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Mido, a mid-level brand owned by the Swatch Group, is well known for its capacity to deliver solid horological content at a fair price, but also with a rather cool sense of design. Check the recent Ocean Star 39 and you’ll have a great idea of what we’re talking about. Another watch that always made […]
SJX Watches
Swiss clock maker L’Epée 1839’s latest desk-bound timekeeper is the Imperial Hot Air Balloon, a unique piece that is uncharacteristically classical compared to the brand’s recent launches that have tended towards modernity. It’s essentially a highly decorated, elaborately styled variant of the no-frills Hot Air Balloon clock of 2018. L’Epée 1839 was absorbed into LVMH last year, and this shift towards more traditional clocks chimes with the luxury group’s focus on higher-end and artisanal watchmaking. Notably, Louis Vuitton tapped L’Epée 1839 for its own hot air ballon-shaped desk clock. Initial thoughts While most of L’Epée’s creations are undoubtedly interesting, blending sculptural mechanics with proprietary clock movements, the clockmaker was historically a maker of classically traditional mantlepiece clocks. Most of its creations from earlier decades were styled after carriage clock. While entirely sculptural in form, the Hot Air Balloon manages to look as it belongs to a bygone era of watchmaking. A métiers d’art creation, the unique piece is restrained and ornate, while being modern only in the way it displays the time. Otherwise, the miniature flying object would sit comfortably in a historical residence. Not to say that other L’Epée are not well executed, but their modern and structural constructions don’t usually allow for classic artisanal crafts to be put to good use. The Hot Air Ballon’s centrepiece is the blue enamelled surface...
Worn & Wound
Sometimes, no matter how many hours we spend scrolling on Instagram and monitoring various watch-focused group chats, things slip through the cracks. Watches that check all the right boxes to rise above the noise of a crowded market go unnoticed and become sleeper hits instead of hits, and creativity that deserves widespread celebration instead receives a splattering of quiet applause. For collectors that enjoy witnessing brands evolve and develop distinct design DNA in real time, it can be a bummer to discover your radar missed something great. But on the bright side, this scenario allows for instant gratification and the opportunity to speed run a brand’s evolution to the present day. This was my experience when Italian microbrand echo/neutra released the Rivanera at the end of last year. Like many of you, I was pleasantly caught off guard by the rugged take on the classic rectangular dress watch, but didn’t recognize the name divided by a distinct slash on the dial. This sent me digging through surprisingly sparse reviews and forum threads where I discovered that the Rivanera was far from beginner’s luck, and was actually the result of a year’s long evolution that began in the way many do, with a safe and somewhat generic field watch on Kickstarter. Watching aging YouTube videos, this actual first release called the Averau (which later included a very cool moon phase) looks like exactly the type of watch I would’ve chased in 2019 when specs and MSRP were my pr...
Fratello
Maybe you can’t call it a comeback - thanks, LL Cool J - but in a way, Corum is making a comeback. Founded in 1955 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand recently announced a return to Swiss ownership. It was part of the Hong Kong-based Citychamp Watch & Jewellery Group for 12 years. But following a […] Visit Corum Is Making A Swiss-Owned Comeback - What Can We Expect? to read the full article.
Fratello
Just six months after debuting with the ALD model in four dial options, Dennison has returned with a group of new releases. The big news is the brand’s first collaboration, a new piece with Collectability. Four other watches join the catalog, proving this retro design is highly versatile. Last November, I reviewed the initial Dennison […] Visit Dennison Collaborates With Collectability And Introduces Four New ALD Pieces to read the full article.
Monochrome
Historical Swiss watch brand Corum is back to Swiss ownership following a management buy-out led by Sales Director Haso Mehmedovic, backed by a group of Swiss investors – which remains undisclosed for now but is presented as members of the luxury and finance sectors. Haso Mehmedovic, who will serve as the brand’s new CEO, began […]
Worn & Wound
Massena LAB has announced their latest limited edition, a third collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès. The new Noctograph also represents the first release from Massena LAB since it was revealed that the brand would now be part of the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a group founded last year by Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro (the alliance also added Fears at the same time as Massena LAB). The Noctograph, then, is a watch that celebrates independence as well as collaboration in a way that Massena LAB has been doing since the brand’s inception, and makes them a natural fit with their new AHA partners. If you’ve followed Massena LAB since William Massena launched the project, you’ve probably gotten a sense of his taste. The brands he likes, the watches he collects, and so on. Massena LAB is essentially a vehicle for Massena and his collaborators to put a new spin on the ideas and watches that have shaped his taste over decades. Sometimes those watches are somewhat straightforward reissues of classics that are just slightly tweaked, and sometimes they are more imaginative and high concept. But they always showcase some very specific hallmarks and design cues, sharing inspiration from watches of the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, and allow Massena an opportunity for storytelling and sharing watch history through a watch’s design. So it’s interesting that one of Massena’s key partners over these past few years has been an indie watchmaker who is v...
Time+Tide
This year, we gathered a prominent group of collectors and enthusiasts tucked away inside the Cartier booth to talk all things Cartier.The post What happened at our Cartier Collectors’ Rendezvous appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The world’s leading luxury group, LVMH, has just announced its sales revenues for the first quarter of 2025, which ended March 31st. At the end of the year 2024, when the conglomerate was still reporting strong results, revenues showed a slight improvement, offsetting the losses of mid-2024. However, the global geopolitical and economic environment is uncertain due […]
Monochrome
One of the first purpose-built modern dive watches produced in the mid-1950s, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was a key player in the development of “skin diving” and the watch selected by several elite diving corps. Taken out of production in the 1980s, Swatch Group’s Marc A. Hayek resuscitated the Fifty Fathoms in 2003. In 2007, the […]
Monochrome
Union Glashütte, now part of Swatch Group, marks its birth in 1893 when Johannes Dürrstein founded the Uhrenfabrik Union in the heart of Germany’s watchmaking region. Balancing vintage and modern elements with appealing designs and a reasonable price-to-quality ratio, nowadays the brand receives proper attention with releases like last year´s Noramis Chronograph Sport with its […]
Monochrome
Alpina, a subsidiary of the Citizen Group since 2016 – specializes in sports watches, while its sister brand Frederique Constant focuses on accessible luxury. Its core collections, the Startimer, Seastrong, and Alpiner, embody the adventurous spirit of aviation, sea exploration, and mountaineering. Within the Alpiner lineup, the Extreme series includes a chronograph, regulator, skeleton models, […]
Monochrome
Union Glashütte, a brand owned by the Swatch Group, is known for crafting reliable timepieces that blend emotional appeal with good value. One of the notable collections is the Belisar Chronograph series, which combines retro inspiration with modern performance and design. The latest addition to this lineup stays true to the specifications of its predecessors. […]
Fratello
Not even a month ago, I wrote an article about the new Speedmaster MoonSwatch 1965. That was the 30th iteration of this collaboration between Swatch and Omega. Now we’ve got the next one, number 31, the Mission To The Pink Moonphase. Those who followed the press conference on Swatch Group’s annual results could have seen […] Visit Meet MoonSwatch #31 - The Mission To The Pink Moonphase to read the full article.
SJX Watches
One of the badly kept secrets in Swiss watchmaking has just come true: Breitling has acquired Gallet. Backed by Swiss private equity firm Partners Group, Breitling has been slowly building itself into a group of brands. The Gallet acquisition comes a little over a year after Breitling took over Universal Genève. According to Breitling chief executive Georges Kern speaking to Fratello Watches, Gallet will be positioned in the sub-CHF3,000 range, topping out at CHF5,000. This puts its squarely in the segment of established brands like Tudor and Longines, which enjoy unparalleled economies of scale, as well as online-only micro brands that lack the overhead of established brands. The rationale of acquiring Gallet is clear. As Mr Kern mentions in his Fratello interview, it gives Breitling a stronger position vis a vis third-party retailers since the brand can now offer products across the price spectrum, with Universal Genève at the very top. This is particularly relevant as many brands owned by luxury groups like Richemont continue to withdraw from third-party retailers. Another factor that is left unsaid in the interview is the enlarged group presumably improves the odds of an exit for Breitling’s private-equity backers. Partners Group bought a majority stake in Breitling at end 2022 from CVC Capital, another private equity firm that bought Breitling in 2017. According to news reports at the time, CVC divested part of its Breitling stake at over five times the 2017 valua...
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