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Results for Sea-Dweller

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Wiki · Guide
The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Rolex Sea-Dweller Rolex

43 mm × 14.6 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. 3235

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 (1988-2008) Rolex

40 mm × 15.0 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3135

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Rolex Sea-Dweller 1665 "Double Red / Great White" (1967-1980) Rolex

40 mm × 15.0 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 1575

Unpacking Patek Philippe’s Latest Novelties from the 50th Anniversary of the Nautilus and Beyond Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s Latest Novelties from Apr 23, 2026

Unpacking Patek Philippe’s Latest Novelties from the 50th Anniversary of the Nautilus and Beyond

Perhaps only second to Rolex, Patek Philippe’s novelties rank among some of the most highly anticipated at each year’s Watches & Wonders. The maison (like Rolex) is one of a select few brands that notoriously keeps its models under strict lock and key until the fair. Despite receiving the press kit in our inboxes that fateful morning, we all know nothing really compares to seeing the watches in the metal. Once you’ve been attending Watches & Wonders for many years, you know the Patek Philippe choreography well. The booth is one of the sleekest and most well-appointed each year, standing brightly lit and with a commanding presence directly across from the moodier Rolex outpost. As you pass through the threshold, you’re met with a warm and serene vibe that may surprise some for such a prestigious and traditional brand. After mingling with representatives from every major U.S. media outlet, you’re all ushered into the expansive roundtable room at the back of the booth. Here, you must choose your seat carefully in front of the covered tray you hope will reveal the novelty you’re most excited to see. At the moment of the grand unveiling, gloved experts from the maison lift the coverings off the trays in perfect synchronicity, marking the start of the dance, which moves counterclockwise around each station featuring a different watch family. This year, I choose well, beginning my journey with the 50th anniversary Nautilus models. Here, we have three new executions of...

Tudor’s Classic Black Bay 58 Gets an Update SJX Watches
Tudor s Classic Black Bay Apr 17, 2026

Tudor’s Classic Black Bay 58 Gets an Update

Tudor’s bestseller just got a new update. The new Black Bay 58 builds upon last year’s burgundy version, coming in the beloved black dial with gilt accents configuration. Not only did the iconic vintage-inspired diver get slimmer and better proportioned, but it also come with a choice of three different straps. Initial thoughts Ever since Tudor was rejuvenated the brand became almost synonymous with the well-built and equally well-styled Black Bay collection. The model line grew to include various complications, from GMT functions to chronographs all while retaining the core vintage-coded aesthetic.  This streamlined “BB58” format was first introduced in 2024 with the Black Bay 58 GMT. The watch featured sleeker case proportions, a METAS-certified movement and a slimmer, more practical crown.  A burgundy version of the time-only Black Bay then followed and now Tudor adapts arguably their most iconic configuration to this updated format.  Due to its proportions, overall construction and colour scheme the watch strongly resembles the vintage Rolex Ref. 6538. The watch was famously worn by Sean Connery’s James Bond in the first ever Bond movie, Dr. No. Tudor’s new case proportions work so well with the vintage-inspired black and gilt dial that the new reference is guaranteed to be a big hit with Bond fans.  Notably, the new Black Bay 58 comes with a choice of two steel bracelets and a rubber strap. Apart from the Oyster-inspired faux-rivet three-link bracelet ...

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns Apr 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns

Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...

Felix the Cat Pilots Bremont’s Latest SJX Watches
Bremont s Latest Bremont’s Altitude Mar 5, 2026

Felix the Cat Pilots Bremont’s Latest

Bremont’s Altitude MB Meteor Felix the Cat puts one of military aviation’s most mischievous mascots on the wrist in a 42 mm titanium pilot’s watch that turns the tradition of wartime nose art into a wearable 500-piece limited edition. Inspired by on the brand’s long-running Martin-Baker collaboration, the Felix edition pays tribute to the iconic cartoon mascot of the US Navy’s VFA-31 “Tomcatters” fighter squadron. Initial thoughts Bremont built its brand on military aviation-themed watches, and the Altitude MB Meteor proves it understands the cultural hallmarks of this niche better than most. The Felix edition taps into the enduring tradition of nose art - the cartoon characters, pin-ups, and mascots that have adorned military aircraft for over a century - drawing on one of the US Navy’s most recognisable icons. Creating visual coherence, the depiction of Felix is outlined in yellow, echoing the black-and-yellow stripes of the balance end of the seconds hand, which is meant to evoke an ejection seat grab handle. This has long been a Bremont motif, and is actually one of the brand’s strongest calling cards, dating back to the original 2007 collaboration with British ejection seat maker Martin-Baker (hence the ‘MB’ designation in the model name). The Altitude MB Meteor is the latest mission in this campaign, and retains the dual-crown architecture and textured case band of the original. That said, several details of the 42 mm case have been changed,...

Introducing - The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Alpine Drivers Pink Edition is Performance, Exposed Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Alpine Mar 2, 2026

Introducing - The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Alpine Drivers Pink Edition is Performance, Exposed

With the start of the 2026 Formula 1 season (Australia Grand Prix, March 6-8), H. Moser & Cie. adds a vivid new chapter to its collaboration with BWT Alpine Formula One Team and presents the Streamliner Alpine Drivers Pink Edition. This limited series updates last year’s concept through colour and contrast.  The familiar Streamliner case […]

TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 Edition: The Smartwatch Built for F1 Fans WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Feb 25, 2026

TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 Edition: The Smartwatch Built for F1 Fans

As the F1 season for 2026 is about to get underway, official timing partner TAG Heuer has released a special Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 edition that puts you right in the action! What We Love 45 mm case size is perfect for a fitness-oriented smart watch for those with average and above wrists The ability to customise the interface and displays Interconnectivity with the F1 app – perfect for F1 fans What We Don’t Spoiler alerts if you want to watch the races after they have run (like I do) Smart watches are not for everyone, so consider if this is for you It is not designed for smaller wrists, but the 40 mm Connected range fills this void now Overall Score: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The Formula 1 season is upon us again, and 2026 marks TAG Heuer’s second year as the sport’s official timing partner. To kick off the season, which starts next week in Melbourne, TAG Heuer has released a special edition Connected E5 smartwatch designed with Formula One fans in mind. Based on the new Connected E5 45mm models released last year, this isn’t just a cosmetic redesign. The watch delivers real-time Formula One data, giving fans up-to-date information throughout the season and across each race weekend via a direct link with the F1 App and the FIA. The new TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 x F1 Edition First Impressions I reviewed the Connected E5 last year in the 40 mm case size, and it proved excellent for track...

Hands On: TAG Heuer’s Seafarer Navigates the Tides SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Seafarer Navigates Feb 6, 2026

Hands On: TAG Heuer’s Seafarer Navigates the Tides

One of the most talked-about watches of this year’s LVMH Watch Week, the TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer reimagines Heuer’s quirky midecentury tide-tracker in the contemporary Carrera ‘Glassbox’ format. With its warm hues and vibrant teal accents, the Seafarer captures much of the charm of the original while incorporating most (if not all) of the brand’s latest technical upgrades. Initial thoughts The Carrera Seafarer belongs to the tradition of historical reissues, in the same vein as watches like the Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” and Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 that give new life to past icons. While these reruns can get tiring, there continue to be instances in which the original model has become too iconic to not be given another go.  Such is the case with the Seafarer, a quirky creation from the 1940s originally sold under the Abercrombie & Fitch name, which was, at the time, a premium sporting goods retailer trusted by the likes of Ernest Hemingway. Interestingly, the original was never a true commercial success, but its novel complication and vibrant colourways have since made it highly collectible in recent years.  Much like early Rolex Daytonas, the original Seafarers were under appreciated in their time but later gained a niche following. Dressed in the modern Carrera Glassbox case, the Seafarer shines with its champagne-coloured dial, blocky typeface and playful chromatics. Thankfully the reissue stays true to the original’s purpos...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Red Dial SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Feb 3, 2026

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Red Dial

Vacheron Constantin’s latest Overseas Tourbillon pairs a titanium case with a deep red dial, recalling last year’s perpetual calendar, showcasing the cal. 2160 with peripheral rotor, refined finishing, and a slow beating one minute tourbillon. It represents the finest of industrial fine watchmaking with high-end construction inside and out. Initial Thoughts Last August Vacheron Constantin launched a pair of new Overseas Perpetual Calendars, one in burgundy and the other pink-on-pink. I felt the “deep red” dial – as Vacheron Constantin calls it – works particularly well against the white gold case, and the light blue accents were a nice touch. Nothing has changed on that front, the colour pallette looks just as good now as it did then, but is now lighter, thanks to the titanium case, and equipped more impressive movement. While the Overseas Perpetual’s movement somewhat lags behind its competition, the Overseas Tourbillon has a more competitive calibre, which holds its own against the Royal Oak Tourbillons, and wins by default against the non-existent Nautilus Tourbillon. That said, it is hardly a value within its segment, with estimated pricing comparable to Audemars Piguet’s blue-chip Royal Oak Tourbillons, though that is more than fair when you put aside brand caché and focus purely on the product. Case and Bracelet The Overseas case is well made and well finished by any standard, though not quite as complex as its counterparts from Audemars Piguet and P...

A Rising Tide Lifts TAG Heuer’s Carrera Seafarer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Carrera Seafarer TAG Jan 19, 2026

A Rising Tide Lifts TAG Heuer’s Carrera Seafarer

TAG Heuer rides the vintage reissue wave with the Carrera Seafarer, a chronograph that tracks the tides with a quirky mechanical complication originally developed for the American retailer Abercrombie & Fitch in the early 1950s. Delivered in the brand’s popular ‘Glassbox’ case, the sun-bleached aesthetic features a champagne-coloured dial and Intrepid Teal accents to capture the spirit of mid-century maritime instruments in a modern, wearable package. Initial thoughts  The past year has shown that TAG Heuer is doubling down on technical credibility. The brand launched carbon hairsprings that are now ready for mass production as an alternative to silicon hairsprings, and the brand has also regained the coveted position as the official timekeeper of Formula 1. Furthering its bid to recapture lost magic, the Seafarer is a modern Carrera ‘Glassbox’ infused with the immense charm of the original Seafarer models signed by Abercrombie & Fitch. The Carrera Seafarer is powered by the modern TH20-04 movement, derived from the TH20-00, that’s been tweaked to show the times of high and low tide using a mechanism likely adapted from a moon phase indictor. While still reliant on the simplistic concept developed for the 1950s models, the complication’s gear ratios have been refined and modernised by TAG Heuer engineers.  As a result, the Seafarer displays the local tide times for a given place, serving as a proper tool watch for birdwatchers, anglers and fishermen in gene...

Konstantin Chaykin’s Venus is Arty and Naughty SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin s Venus Dec 11, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin’s Venus is Arty and Naughty

Konstantin Chaykin’s signature Wristmon has taken an unexpected twist with the Venus. Inspired by The Birth of Venus, Botticelli’s famous Renaissance painting, the wristwatch is modelled on the goddess Venus emerging from the sea, nude with flowing hair.  Like the Wristmons, Venus tells the time with rotating discs, except the discs no longer represent the eyes. Appropriately, the Venus prototype will be sold in at auction on December 11, with all proceeds going to LILT Milano Monza Brianza, an Italian charity dedicated to preventing breast cancer. Initial thoughts The Wristmon is now a familiar concept, maybe too familiar. Venus is a clever twist on the idea; it’s essentially identical in terms of function, yet entirely different in look and theme. The Venus is also relatively subtle, despite the highly exposed central theme. At the same time, the Venus fits into a historical category of watches. In some ways it’s a variant of the tradition erotic watch, which existed in pocket watches and also modern wristwatches. The case of the Venus is also a bit more graceful than the average Wristmon. It has flowing lines and more importantly, only one crown, instead of the two for most Wristmon models. In short, I like the Venus. It is a smart new direction for the Russian watchmaker’s signature concept. Goddess on the dial Like the Wristmons, Venus indicates the time regulator-style. Hours and minutes are each indicated on rotating discs, while the “face” forms the ...

Audemars Piguet’s Intelligent Watch Winder Sets the Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Intelligent Watch Winder Nov 25, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Intelligent Watch Winder Sets the Calendar

Audemars Piguet unveiled the unexpected at Dubai Watch Week: an intelligent watch winder created in collaboration with Dubai Future Labs. Designed specifically for the brand’s latest perpetual calendar calibre, the device uses computer vision, a motorised arm, and Bluetooth connectivity to wind the watch, read the dial, and set all calendar indications automatically. It’s a curious blend of haute horlogerie and consumer robotics. Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars have long bedeviled collectors and after-sales service departments alike. Often tedious to reset after non-use, they can break or bind if adjusted at the wrong time. In the past couple of decades, this problem has been largely solved by watchmakers like Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Stephen McDonnell, Andreas Strehler, Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe, and most recently by Audemars Piguet. Given that Audemars Piguet is among the names that have developed a fool-proof perpetual calendar, the intelligent watch winder seems like a solution in search of a problem. The choice of the launch platform is also puzzling. On one hand, I understand why Audemars Piguet would develop the winder for its new cal. 7138; it makes sense to promote the new product. But on the other hand, the box would be far more useful if it worked for the brand’s earlier generations of perpetual calendars, which are more liable to break from improper use and need to be adjusted using pushers in the case. There are also many more of them in circulation, ...

Introducing - The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Bell Nov 21, 2025

Introducing - The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor

Bell & Ross alters its flight path to navigate higher altitudes with the release of the new BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor. Celebrating technical prowess and transparency, the signature cockpit-inspired watches that form the backbone of the brand make way for a new squadron of high-flying references where time takes a back seat to allow the movement […]

Best of Both Worlds: Ulysse Nardin x Urwerk UR-Freak SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin x Urwerk UR-Freak Nov 19, 2025

Best of Both Worlds: Ulysse Nardin x Urwerk UR-Freak

The Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak brings together two of contemporary watchmaking’s most inventive forces. A collaboration between Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk, it merges the Freak’s revolving-movement architecture with Urwerk’s signature wandering hours display to create something that feels both inevitable and extraordinary. The partnership amplifies the strengths of each brand: Ulysse Nardin’s mastery of silicon technology and mechanical architecture, and Urwerk’s futuristic approach to time display. More than a meeting of aesthetics, the UR-Freak unites two brands that have long challenged convention. Both rose to prominence around the turn of the millennium by rewriting mechanical rules-Ulysse Nardin with its revolutionary 2001 Freak, and Urwerk with its satellite-hour timepieces that reimagined a traditional complication. Two decades later, their paths converge with a 100-piece limited edition in sandblasted titanium. Initial thoughts Some collaborations seem obvious in hindsight; the Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak is one of them. The collaboration plays to the strengths of both brands, with Urwerk’s signature wandering hours display plugging seamlessly into the UN Freak architecture. It turns out that Urwerk’s signature satellite wandering hours display feels right at home grafted onto Uylsse Nardin’s flagship. Frankly, they could have left it at that and called it a day. But the fact is Ulysse Nardin went the extra step to reimagine the Freak’s signature flying to...

TAG Heuer’s Split-Seconds Goes High Tech with Laser Sintering SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Split-Seconds Goes High Nov 19, 2025

TAG Heuer’s Split-Seconds Goes High Tech with Laser Sintering

TAG Heuer flexes its research and development muscles again with the performance-oriented Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1. Using the iconic square chronograph as a base, the brand’s engineers took inspiration from its Formula 1 partnership to explore new manufacturing techniques for this 30-piece limited edition that boasts an ultra-light, hollowed-out 18k gold case fabricated with laser additive manufacturing. Initial thoughts The original Monaco from Heuer remains one of the more enduring chronograph designs, with the storied past and distinctive square form. It is refreshing to see TAG Heuer using it as a base for newer, technologically-oriented pieces. This new limited edition takes the already-supercharged crystallised titanium split-seconds released earlier this year and reimagines the square case. The result is a honeycomb-patterned case that is surprisingly lightweight for the size and material. The complex and layered construction of the Air 1, here in an exploded view. The team at TAG Heuer employed a new additive manufacturing technique with the goal of a sturdy yet remarkably light chronograph. Keeping in mind that gold is a dense (thus heavy) metal, making a watch that qualifies as “lightweight” is usually incompatible with including the precious alloy. Here the engineers came up with a way to reduce the volume of gold used, while keeping the components’ sturdiness intact. The timepiece itself can be a little much in terms of styling, with the ...

Reinventing Time: Tissot’s New Era Of NBA Shot Clocks Fratello
Tissot s New Era Nov 8, 2025

Reinventing Time: Tissot’s New Era Of NBA Shot Clocks

Watching an NBA game live is an unforgettable experience for any sports fan. Our third-row seats brought us as close to the action as I’ve ever been. Seeing the players up close, feeling how the parquet floor was shaking under their feet, and hearing the unmistakable buzzer of the new Tissot shot clock put me […] Visit Reinventing Time: Tissot’s New Era Of NBA Shot Clocks to read the full article.

Join The Golden Breitling × Fratello Evening In Den Haag On November 28th Fratello
Breitling × Fratello Evening Oct 29, 2025

Join The Golden Breitling × Fratello Evening In Den Haag On November 28th

Before the year ends, we will hold one final event with Breitling in The Hague (Den Haag), just in time for the golden season. On November 28th, we would like to welcome you to the Breitling boutique to discover some (gold) wonders. Join us on November 28th - Register now After having two earlier events […] Visit Join The Golden Breitling × Fratello Evening In Den Haag On November 28th to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date With An Indian Summer Dial Fratello
Oris × Cervo Volante Big Oct 8, 2025

Hands-On: The New Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date With An Indian Summer Dial

Fall is hitting us hard here in the Netherlands this week. Temperatures are dropping, and so are the leaves. But autumn doesn’t have to be a season defined by rain and storms. In Canada, especially, the period from September to November can be quite enjoyable, with the sun hitting the multicolored leaves on the country’s […] Visit Hands-On: The New Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date With An Indian Summer Dial to read the full article.

Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin s Entry-Level Freak Sep 4, 2025

Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium

The latest iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s most affordable Freak is the Freak X Crystalium, a limited edition that blends the disruptive Freak aesthetic with a novel decorative element in the form of a dial in Crystalium. Though it has an almost organic look, Crystalium is actually the result of crystallised ruthenium deposited via physical vapour deposition (PVD). The advanced, unusual material is decorative, yet harks back to the Freak’s origins as a materials pioneer. Initial thoughts The Freak has been a core collection in Ulysse Nardin’s roster since the first model was launched back in 2001. The line has been defined by disruptive and bold technical construction and a pioneering use of silicon. But lately it feels watered down; the Freak X dials back on the exotic tech to make the iconic design more attainable. And the many iterations of the Freak X don’t help its case.  But paradoxically the new Freak X is a return to one of the core values of the Freak series: materials science. Ulysse Nardin experimented with all sorts of materials over the years with the Freak as a platform, ranging from the DIAMonSIL escapement to silicon movement bridges to mono block oscillators. The Freak X Crystalium employs new material, but this time it serves an aesthetic function as opposed to a mechanical one. The large rotating disk which serves as the dial’s foundation is covered in an organic-seeming, quartz-like glittering surface that’s the result of years of research.  ...

SJX Podcast: Urban Jürgensen’s Revival, Breguet’s Birthday, and Spring Auctions SJX Watches
Breguet s Birthday Jul 8, 2025

SJX Podcast: Urban Jürgensen’s Revival, Breguet’s Birthday, and Spring Auctions

SJX and Brandon Moore kick off episode seven of the SJX Podcast with the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen (which includes a tribute to Derek Pratt’s Oval pocket watch), discussing why this time might be different. Also on the docket is a recap of the spring auction season, which included strong prices for hot names in independent watchmaking, though other “indies” waned, surprising showings from hitherto esoteric clocks and pocket watches, and some value buys with out-of-vogue timepieces. Lastly, we recap Breguet’s 250th anniversary launches so far, which have met with a mixed reception, but demonstrate signs of life for a historic brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Vacheron Constantin’s “Tribute to The Celestial” Artfully Blends Gemstones and Guilloché SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s “Tribute Jul 7, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s “Tribute to The Celestial” Artfully Blends Gemstones and Guilloché

Continuing with its 250th anniversary special editions in fine style, not long after the Temporis Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin’s latest is the 12-piece-strong Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial”. Each watch is dedicated to symbol of the zodiac, with the respective constellation rendered in hand guilloché on the dial, while the case is set with baguette-cut sapphires totalling almost 4 ct. Fortunately available individually instead of only as a set, each “Tribute to The Celestial” watch is powered by the cal. 2160, an automatic movement with a tourbillon and novel peripheral winding mechanism. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin (VC) has long combined complications and gemstones, though in a relatively low-key manner since such watches were rarely announced publicly. The series of Overseas Perpetual Calendars set with coloured stones, for example, was never widely publicised. The “Tribute to The Celestial” demonstrates what VC can do with its in-house guilloche workshop and gem setting (which is probably not done in house). The watches are striking and beautiful, though certainly only for fans of blue, and only blue. Despite the gemstones and guilloche, the watches look surprisingly modern, likely due to the colour as well as the geometric nature of the engine turning. Though the guilloche is done the old school way on a hand-operated machine, the engraved zodiac symbols look nothing like traditional guilloche. Not all the zodiac emblems a...

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Bulova s MIL-SHIPS Went from Jun 7, 2025

How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf

In the world of military-issued watches, some models are legendary. Others are ghost stories-rare prototypes whispered about among collectors, their existence confirmed only through archival fragments or the occasional sighting in the wild. The Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 falls somewhere between the two, and for the first time in decades, one of the few surviving examples is surfacing in public-on the block at Sotheby’s, no less. A Mission-Critical Beginning To understand why this watch matters, you need to rewind to 1955. Amid Cold War tensions and escalating naval operations, the U.S. Navy sought a robust dive watch for its elite underwater teams-specifically, the Underwater Demolition Teams (UDT) and Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) units, the forebears of modern Navy SEALs. The specifications they drafted, known as MIL-SHIPS-W-2181, called for something no commercial watch at the time quite delivered: water resistance beyond 400 feet, excellent night visibility, a highly legible dial, and a locking, unidirectional bezel. The post How Bulova’s MIL-SHIPS Went from Top Secret to Top Shelf appeared first on Worn & Wound.