Deployant
Review: Bovet Dimier Récital 29 – Balancing Luxury and Restraint
We bring you the low-down and our honest thoughts on the Bovet Dimier Récital 29, the first of the series to have a stainless steel case.
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Deployant
We bring you the low-down and our honest thoughts on the Bovet Dimier Récital 29, the first of the series to have a stainless steel case.
Time+Tide
George Bamford is about as passionate and enthusiastic a member of the watch community as you’ll ever find. His boisterous energy is infectious whether he’s discussing his Ferrari 275 GTB or the Bamford Watch Department x Time+Tide GMT1. And it’s this energy that is set to be the driving force behind his new podcast GB … ContinuedThe post George Bamford launches GB Talks podcast to discuss the sleepers of the vintage watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Things get fun, things get heavy, and you’ll even hear a few resolutions from the fine folks on the TBWS Slack channel. Tune in, and don’t forget to share your 2021 watch resolutions on the Facebook page and Instagram.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Now, Kaz has been unplugged for a bit, so you'll get a real-time reaction to some of the newest models from large and small brands.
WatchAdvice
Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date. Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...
Deployant
Czapek unveils the Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph in 18-carat gold in rose gold (LE 8 pieces) and yellow gold (LE 2 pieces)
SJX Watches
Collaborations between watchmakers and automobiles manufactures are common, but unsurprising given the focus on engineering and styling shared by the two industries. Despite the obvious synergies, the watch-and-car tie ups of recent years have rarely enjoyed unbridled success. Now TAG Heuer is seeking to upend the trend with a partnership with Porsche, the German marque whose 911 is the longest-lived sports car in history. The partnership is being inaugurated with the Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition Calibre Heuer 02 – a thoroughly apt product given that the flagship product of each brand shares the same name inspired by the Carrera Panamericana of the 1950s. Initial thoughts The inaugural watch of the partnership has modest ambitions. On the surface, it appears to be a gentle facelift of the Carrera Sport Chronograph introduced last year. The case and movement remain the same, but the design features a few subtle elements drawn from Porsche’s racing pedigree. The execution is smart without being over-the-top, avoiding the pitfall of excess automotive elements that accompany many automotive collaborations. At US$6,050 on a bracelet, the Carrera Porsche Chronograph is priced at a small and reasonable premium of about 5% over the standard model. Compared with watches resulting from earlier automotive partnerships, the Carrera Porsche Chronograph is affordable, and remains a good value proposition, offering a little extra for Porsche and sports car enthusiasts....
WatchAdvice
Pros: Get to enjoy the beautiful patina Great value for moneywears great on smaller wrists Cons: Some may not find this to be a daily wearing watchSome may find the power reserve to be too low in today’s standardAt times reading the date can be tricky (through the domed sapphire ) Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.0/10Build Quality – 8/10 Oris was founded in 1904 and it produced its first pilots watch in 1917. However, this was a pocket watch with an image of a plane that Louis Bleriot flew across the English Channel in 1908 engraved on the case. Few years later in 1938 The BIG CROWN POINTER DATE was born and became a staple in their pilots watch collection. Fast forward 8 decades and Oris introduced a very elegant, vintage, and timeless classic: Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition. The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was introduced to serve a purpose and to a target audience. A watch with oversized crown that pilots could easily operate wearing gloves, large Arabic numerals to read time with a glance and finally a pointer tip which would indicate date. Over the years the watch has undergone refinement in mechanics and materials, but its core design language has remained unchanged. In 2018 the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was encased in solid Bronze. An alloy which changes over time making this watch unique no matter when you wear it on your wrist. Case: The 80th anniversary edition comes in a solid b...
Deployant
We bring you the low-down and our thoughts on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date, featuring an updated movement and a calfskin strap to match.
Time+Tide
I did choose to be very optimistic in my story last week about the astounding Vacheron Constantin Tour de L’Ile reaching a cool record $3 million to kick off a healthy 2021. The estimate was set at Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces in Monaco to a spread of $1.8 – $3 million. But the watch … ContinuedThe post AUCTION NEWS: This Vacheron Constantin sold for just 40 per cent of its $3 million prediction. Is 2021 off to a catastrophically slow start? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Blown away by the first picture in the press release. Where to start? I’ll be honest with you, while we want to share the news from the LVMH Watch Week as soon as it comes out, it does create the luxury of frustration, very apparent in this story on the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Gold weaves a golden web to trap you in a world of micro-mechanical wonder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Pros: Beautiful Bronze that will Patina over timeLatest calibre 401 with small seconds at 6’oclock and 5-day power reserveBeautiful blue dial and dial layout Cons: Some may find it pricyBlue woven elastic strap should have been an additional strapNo open case back to showcase the calibre 401 Overall Rating: 7.5 Value for money – 7.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Oris has come back to once again honour one of the most influential and inspirational figures of the 20th century, Carl Brashear. Keeping in the theme of Oris’s Carl Brashear limited edition watches of the past, this latest timepiece follows the same colour palette and similar design cues, with now being given the brand’s latest and greatest movement. The Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 limited edition is a special piece, and we at WatchAdvice were certainly happy to be one of the first to be able to review it! Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition However, before we get into the watch, it wouldn’t do it justice without knowing who Carl Brashear was and why he was so iconic in the diving world. Born in 1931, Carl Brashear was enlisted in the U.S Navy in 1948, just after the Navy was desegregated by the U.S President Harry S. Truman. Carl Brashear faced many hardships and hostility during his career, especially racism while attending diving school in Bayonne, New Jersey. Brashear’s first emplo...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Without a doubt, one of the hottest trends of 2020 was the sheer volume of coloured watches that were released. From pretty pastels to the range of rainbows, these colours were a welcome bright spot in a grim year. A certain Le Brassus-based brand joined in on the fun introducing the CODE 11.59 … ContinuedThe post Getting colour coordinated with the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded almost two decades ago, making one of the pioneers in contemporary watchmaking, Hautlence has long specialised in unusual, or even avant-garde, time display, like the chain-link hours in the Vortex. Boasting a three-dimensional spherical indicator, the new HL Sphere 02 is even more impressive, reimagining the familiar jumping hours complication as few have managed to do. A follow up to the original HL Sphere introduced last year, the HL Sphere 02 is essentially the same watch dressed more formally, replacing the muted blue-and-grey palette of the original version with a solid pink-gold dial. An animation of the transition from 10 to 11 o’clock Initial thoughts Though the HL Sphere 02 isn’t new, its spherical jumping hours remains novel and interesting. While conventional jumping hours operate on a single plane, relying on a flat disc that moves once an hour, the watch interprets the complication in a throughly different manner that is unique in watchmaking. In fact, the spherical jump hour is more impressive than Hautlence gets credit for. It is arguably on par with inventions like Urwerk’s satellite-cube time display, but because Hautlence isn’t as prominent as its peers – perhaps a consequence of changing management over the years – the brand’s complications don’t get as much recognition as they otherwise should. The HL Sphere 02 is almost identical to the original – the white gold, TV-shaped case and movement are the same – with the only ...
Quill & Pad
As well as being a superb bourbon, one of the great advantages of the Master's Keep premium releases from Wild Turkey is that they are not prohibitively priced (these bourbons are in the vicinity of $150 per bottle), nor are they so limited that you’ll only ever read about them and never see a bottle. These are great bourbons intended for drinking, and Ken Gargett gives us the lowdown.
Time+Tide
When it comes to a significant anniversary, a diamond ring is always a welcome gift that’ll make her positively swoon with gratitude for a day or two. But why not invest in a matching set of watches? “His and hers” might conjure up slightly naff images, but the reality can actually prove to be a … ContinuedThe post His & hers watches are the anniversary gift that lets you justify adding a new piece to your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After having brought back the A384 and A386 for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith has finally remade the last of the three original, 1969 El Primero chronographs. Like the earlier two re-editions, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is faithful to the original, retaining both the proportions of the case and dial – while also boasting a historically-correct movement, an accomplishment exclusive to Zenith since its never stopped making the calibre. As it was with the vintage originals, the A385 remake has the same the tonneau-shaped case found on the A384, but stands out with its smoked dial finish, a defining feature of the original, which also has a cool backstory. In 1970, an original A385 was fastened to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 operated by Air France on a flight from Paris to New York – and the watch kept perfect time on landing. A vintage brochure showing the original El Primero trio that made their debut in 1969 Initial thoughts Being a spot-on reissue means the A385 is unimaginative, but that precisely what makes it appealing. In fact, it’s difficult to not like the watch, which retains all of the qualities of the original – from design to landmark movement – while being reasonably priced, as Zenith watches most often are. And the icing on the cake is the dial finish, a warm tone sets it apart from the many El Primero re-editions, most of which are dressed in plainer colours. The smoked, coffee-colour dial also evokes the faded, “t...
Revolution
Omega announces the 21st century version of the hallowed Speedmaster, with redesigns inspired by the ST105.012 and powered by the Master Chronometer Certified Calibre 3861
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Today, Omega did what they had been hinting at for months: they launched eight new Speedmaster references across four models, all with the new Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. The four references include regular versions with Hesalite and Sapphire and precious metal versions in Omega’s proprietary Canopus gold and Sedna gold, all with options … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’ll know we’re big fans of the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V Editions. We first took a look at the full collection, before zeroing in on the Blanka green machine and the Ken red rocket models, and now we’re going to take a closer look at … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Street Fighter x Seiko Ryu edition hits you like a judo chop to the throat (in a good way) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Whether it’s a bespoke luxury piece, a tough tool watch or even a daily diver, stainless steel is still watchmaking’s primary material of choice. Yet while 316L grade steel is increasingly used by a number of brands, there are, in fact, better, smoother and harder alternatives for watchmaking. Is there such a thing a precious … ContinuedThe post Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Sometimes you get a horological itch that you just have to scratch. My latest is focused on the verdant charm of a green Rolex. But I’ll need one of Luke’s “The Enabler” excuses first. I’m currently running all manner of different scenarios through my mind, a veritable roulette wheel of justifications, trying to find the … ContinuedThe post Get your hands on a Rolex Hulk (right now) and don’t be left green with envy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hot on the heels of the RM 72-01 powered by the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement, Richard Mille has just introduced the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph, continuing its historical focus on ultra high-end chronographs, which began with RM 004 of 2003. Not only is the RM 65-01 the first self-winding split-seconds chronograph from Richard Mille, it’ll also be the brand’s first serially produced watch with the complication, joining watches like the RM 11 as a mainstay of the line up. Initial thoughts Highly-complex chronographs are embedded in Richard Mille’s DNA – the company’s first chronograph was RM 004, which was a hand-wind, split-seconds powered by a Renaud & Papi movement. And in the space of a year, Richard Mille has unveiled two all-new chronographs, starting with the RM 72-01, and now the RM 65-01. RM 65-01 in Carbon NTPT The RM 65-01 is typically Richard Mille in style and materials, exuding sportiness with its techno-industrial movement finish, skeletonised dial, and multicoloured indicators. On any other watch, the colours would look like the designers are trying too hard, but in the RM 65-01, they just work. The movement, however, is notable for being a technically accomplished calibre produced by Vaucher, the respect movement specialist that’s a sister company of Parmigiani. Historically Vaucher has only supplied movements for the brand’s entry-level timepieces, while the more complicated calibres were made by Renaud ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Despite the challenges that we have all faced in 2020, the watch manufacturers of the world have still managed to turn out a very decent crop of new releases this year. For Buffy, though, there were three standout pieces that we’ll take a closer look at here. Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer There … ContinuedThe post LIST: Buffy’s 3 favourite watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For anyone who spends a lot of time on social media, and cruises around Time+Tide’s Instagram on a regular basis, they’ll probably already know that our Bamford x Time+Tide GMT1 sold out in 26 hours over the weekend. And for those who happened to tune in to Insta Stories over the weekend, they’ll also know … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Thank you for making our Bamford collab, our first-ever watch, a winner, we love you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Many guys dismiss the idea of wearing a diamond watch out of fear it’ll seem ludicrously over the top. Admittedly, countless celebrities rock blinged-out watches smothered with so many diamonds you can barely see the metal. But there are other, more subtle alternatives to the fully iced-out look you may want to explore. It is … ContinuedThe post Lord of the bling: 8 watches that prove diamonds can also be a man’s best friend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Phillips Racing Pulse auction showcased something of a timeline of Panerai history, including the legendary Luminor Slytech Daylight owned by Sylvester Stallone, as well as Paul Newman's own Rolex Daytona and Steve McQueen's own Heuer Monaco from the filming of 'Le Mans.' Elizabeth Doerr shares 12 of the extremely entertaining highlights here and the prices that the watches sold for.
SJX Watches
An iconic auto-racing chronograph of the 1970s, the Monaco ref. 1133 was nicknamed the “Steve McQueen” after the actor wore one in the 1971 film Le Mans. And now one of the actual examples worn by McQueen in the film has just become the most expensive Heuer ever sold, achieving US$2.21m with fees at Phillips’ New York auction. There were several Monacos on hand for the production of Le Mans, with McQueen retaining two after filming wrapped. The record-setting watch in question is one of the two that McQueen gifted to Haig Alltounian, both the chief mechanic for the film as well as the actor’s personal mechanic. McQueen (left) and Haig Alltounian (far right) during the filming of Le Mans Mr Alltounian received the watch – engraved with “To Haig Le Mans 1970” on the back – just after filming for Le Mans concluded. Mr Alltounian himself consigned the watch to Phillips for its recent New York watch auction, making its provenance impeccable. The bidding opened at US$150,000, progressing steadily until the air thinned at the half-million dollar mark – which leads to the conclusion that the majority of bidders had a similar limit in mind. Then only three phone bidders were left. The three-way tussle ended with a US$1.8m hammer price – with London-based James Marks of Phillips winning the lot for his client. The result was US$2.2m inclusive of fees, an all-time record for any Heuer watch. It’s also a convenient feather in the cap for TAG Heuer, which is ...
Revolution
Grand Seiko has a reputation as the maker of perfectly finished watches, where precision and performance of the highest calibre are valued above everything. And when it comes to their dive watches, the same depth is there…
SJX Watches
Possibly the most iconic Hermès watch, the asymmetrical Arceau has been used to showcase complications like the recent minute repeater with tourbillon or the quirky L’Heure de la Lune. A counterpoint to that is the Arceau Grande Lune, an accessible watch that still preserves the design elements that make the Arceau so recognisable. With its latest facelift, the Arceau Grande Lune now has an altogether more modern aesthetic with a two-tone, metallic blue dial. Initial thoughts The new Grande Lune is a handsome watch with all the typical design cues of the Arceau, from the Breguet-style numerals for both the hours and date to the stirrup-inspired case. At the same time, the Arceau Grande Lune is a more formal-looking watch than recent releases from Hermes that had a bit more whimsy, most notably the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater. The distinctive lugs are larger on the top While the “XL”, 43 mm Arceau case is ideal for showing off uber-complications, it is perhaps a shade too large for a more formal watch, especially one with an old-school triple-calendar and moon phase. It’s still a good looking watch, with a style that is more contemporary than earlier iterations of the model. The dial is dressed in a fashionable colour, but has plenty of visual interest thanks to the clever use of varied surface textures that give it a subtle two-tone finish. And despite the case design being over 40 years old, the Arceau still feels current thanks to its subtle asy...
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