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Time+Tide
A simple and good-looking everyday watch, the Baltic Hermétique Tourer is ready for a few tougher challenges too.The post The new Baltic Hermétique Tourer is an excellent round-out for the brand’s collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko 5 Sports 6119-6400 Day Date Starting off this week with a sweet vintage Seiko 5 Sports diver. This one is really cool, with a round, UFO style steel case that has a simple black external bezel but an internal rotating elapsed time bezel. The black dial is clean with lume filled steel baton hour markers. The correct crown is recessed at 4 o’clock which gives it a clean look. The Hardlex crystal has some scratches, but you can find replacements with a little eBay searching. These models are usually beaten to a pulp, but this one is about as clean as you’ll find. The bracelet isn’t original unfortunately, but the watch is still on point. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Here we have a gorgeous vintage Bulova dress watch. This beauty is from 1950, and the fancy “knotted” lugs are the hero for sure. The 29mm case is in pretty good shape, with little wearthrough on the 10k gold plate case. The two-tone silver dial looks to be original and has only a light, even patina which looks fantastic. Gold dauphine hands round out the look. The Bulova caliber 10BC manual wind movement is clean and the seller states it runs well. Really an amazing and stylish Mid-Century Mod Bulova dre...
![[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Titanium Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/10/Omega_seamaster_017.jpg)
Worn & Wound
The Omega Seamaster has a rich and complex history that encompasses a broad range of styles over the generations. Odds are strong that each of us conjures a slightly different image upon hearing the word Seamaster, from the Bond examples of the ‘90s, to the PloProf of the ‘60s, or even the quaint, near formal examples from the ‘40s. That breadth is reflected in the modern Seamaster collection, which currently encompasses the Aqua Terra, the Diver 300, the Planet Ocean, and a range of Heritage models that include the likes of the Railmaster and the PloProf. This diversity of options has meant plenty of great references have come and gone, and a few may have even slipped through the cracks through no fault of their own. This Missed Review will focus on one such reference, the titanium Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 from the early ‘00s. The modern Seamaster 300 picks the story up in 1993, sporting the word ‘professional’ on its dial and a helium release appendage at 10 o’clock. The new watch was about to get the boost of a lifetime thanks to a placement on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in his portrayal of fictional British spy, James Bond in the 1995 film GoldenEye. It is this reference, the steel 2541.80.00 with quartz movement that generally pops into my head when I think about the Seamaster. It’s not a watch I find particularly attractive, but it is one that I associate with a specific era perhaps more than any other watch. There is something truly unique about t...
Revolution
Wei introduces the third act by Blancpain, commemorating the 70th anniversary of its iconic Fifty Fathoms diver’s watch with the “Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3” model. This edition draws inspiration from the MIL-SPEC model adopted by the primary armed forces of its era. The inception of the Fifty Fathoms is a tale of fortunate […]
Deployant
Bulova, renowned for its exquisite timepieces, pays homage to its iconic 1972 Oceanographer watch, fondly known as the “Devil Diver,” by launching an exciting trio of Oceanographer GMT watches. Merging timeless designs with contemporary elements, the Oceanographer collection receives a significant upgrade with the addition of GMT functionality.
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Hodinkee
The "Devil Diver" has been issued a passport.
Time+Tide
Diver-centred brand Edox introduce the slimmer, and more dressed-up Neptunian Grande RéserveThe post Edox Neptunian Grande Réserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Charlie Paris shows off an evolution of the Concordia diver, powered by the Soprod C125 GMT calibreThe post Charlie Paris Concordia GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A travel-ready take on the popular Black Bay diver makes for a compelling companion wherever you may roam.
Worn & Wound
Seiko introduced a new caliber back in March via their Prospex GMT Diver collection, adding caller GMT functionality into the brand’s well understood contemporary dive watch platform. Those watches have generated quite a bit of chatter in the watch community, with many singing their praises with respect to overall fit, finish, and wearability, and others wishing for a more functional flyer GMT complication. While the dust might still be settling, Seiko marches on, with the latest crop of watches to feature their still new 6R54 GMT movement. This time, Seiko brings the movement to the Alpinist family, which seems like a natural place for a GMT equipped watch to land. It takes what has always been cast as an explorer’s watch (with its signature compass bezel) and gives it a modern, practical, mechanical complication for a different kind of exploration. I’ve always been a pretty big fan of the Alpinist for many of the reasons Blake identifies in his Missed Review. There’s something charmingly anachronistic about wearing a watch designed with such an old fashioned aesthetic (those cathedral hands, especially) but built to modern sports watch standards. With a GMT complication added, the Alpinist retains a lot (maybe all) of that old fashioned charm, just slightly tweaked. The Explorer-style steel 24 hour bezel gives these watches a clean and sporty look, and we still get the trademark handset and those big numerals (just at the cardinal positions here, rather than ev...
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Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Jubilee Skin Diver First up this week is a nice vintage Jubilee diver. Interesting factoid, Jubilee watches were made by Wittnauer/Longines. So while Jubilee may seem like a “no-name” brand, they are in fact a quality watch that was made for a lower price-point market. This Jubilee diver is a nice size, with a stainless steel case that comes in at just under 38mm wide. The case looks to be in good shape and seems unpolished. The black dial has nice patina on the lume, with big baton style hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The crown looks original, and has an unusual marking of “100% W-P”, which I’ve never seen before and is kind of a cool feature. Seller states the 17 jewel manual wind movement runs well. Great vintage diver that should end up reasonably priced. View auction here. Meister-Anker Chronograph Here’s another vintage gem that should be an affordable one. What this vintage Meister-Anker chronograph lacks in name recognition it makes up for in style. The unusually shaped and quite 1970’s style case is chrome plated with a steel back, but the case is in great shape with no pitting and a nice brushed finish, and hidden lugs. The black dial is superb...
Hodinkee
The third edition the oh-so-70s Military diver.
SJX Watches
Longines’ contemporary diver that’s been in the catalogue for over 16 years, the Hydroconquest now gets an upgrade with a new complication. The Hydroconquest GMT is the first model in the line-up with a dual time zone. In contrast to the bolder-looking time-only counterparts, the new GMT is accompanied by a pared-back, legible dial complemented with a unidirectional ceramic bezel and the brand’s latest automatic calibre. Initial thoughts The Hydroconquest tends to receive less attention compared to dive watches from other brands in this price range. In my view, this can be ascribed to its dial design that was bold with oversized numerals positioned at six, nine, and 12, yet not particularly distinctive. Longines probably realised this and smartly developed a new timepiece with a practical complication while tweaking the dial layout and getting rid of these oversized numerals. The shift from oversized numerals to more conventional indices is particularly notable on the green and brown dials where the colours underscore the carefully thought-out design. Purists might argue for eliminating the date window to further streamline the dial, though that would remove one of the key elements of a traditional GMT watch. The Hydroconquest GMT is priced at US$2,675 on a NATO strap, with a rubber strap or steel bracelet available for an extra US$100. This is good value, particularly since the watch includes a bona fide GMT function with an independent local-time hour hand, all f...
Hodinkee
Taking the form of the Aquis diver, this follow-up features a shimmering green dial inspired by the waters of the salt marshes along the Wadden Sea.
Worn & Wound
For the better part of two decades, Wempe has been producing high-quality watches out of their home in Glashütte, Germany. Three new models from their Iron Walker collection have been released, each exhibiting the Vorliebe that our Teutonic cousins have for precision, beauty, and exceptional quality. The first to debut in the new Iron Walker collection is the Diver. Taking inspiration from the steel constructions that defined the era of imagination in 1920’s New York, the Diver marries the simplicity of a good watch and the beauty of a great watch into one. At 42mm, it’s a robust size but the overall finish, such as the diminutive day date and the lumed hands, help to keep it from feeling too bulky. The Diver comes in two colorways (blue and black), is water-resistant to 30 bars, and runs on a ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, giving the wearer up to 50 hours of power reserve. Next up in the Iron Walker collection is Tide. Mixing maritime influences to the collection, this watch is as much about function as it is about form. While one could enjoy the balance of blue and black against the steel case alone, the real beauty is the internal mechanism of this watch. For life on the coast, the Tide’s rotating bezel offers maximum visibility on how much time will elapse between the next low or high tide. Similar to the Diver above, the Tide shares similar specs, such as an ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, 30 bars of water-resistance, and lumed hands and hour markers. Last, ...
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Quill & Pad
If John Keil was to recommend a brand-new functional diver’s watch to a friend who was looking to spend within a certain price range, these would be his suggestions. Or, more specifically, here is what he would purchase himself in a variety of price categories.
Worn & Wound
Most dive watches we come across qualify as such thanks to a chunky bezel, gobs of lume on the dial, and halfway decent depth rating. Vulcain, never keen to adhere to the well beaten path, took a different approach with their diver, the Nautical Cricket, and it shows at first blush. The impressive depth rating is there, sure, but the rest of the formula kind of goes out the window. It’s an approach I’d love to see more of in modern divers, and am thrilled to see Vulcain return to the concept 60 years after the original, and 10 years after the first attempt at resuscitation. It’s entirely confusing at a glance, and even if you know what you’re looking at, it still might require an explanation. The new Nautical Cricket is the latest chapter in Vulcain’s modern resurgence. The Nautical Cricket is, as you may have guessed from the name, an alarm watch, which can be set via the thin 4th hand with bright red tip. While unique, that’s not the most unusual element to this watch. That would be the inner portion of the dial, which is littered with rings and number sets and a long thin aperture which reveal further sets of numbers when turned. These tables are used in conjunction with the alarm timer, and if used correctly, will give you the length of your decompression stops at 3, 6, and 9 meters on your ascent. How this works exactly is a bit trickier to decipher, but makes the watch all the more interesting as a dive tool. Things begin with the planned length of your...
Hodinkee
The classic-styled diver swims against the current of the rest of Citizen's lineup, but sometimes that's exactly what's needed.
Worn & Wound
At the end of last year, Zodiac introduced a new ceramic version of their popular Super Sea Wolf dive watch. The stealthy black diver put a new, contemporary spin on a platform that’s existed for almost as long as dive watches themselves, and felt like a natural evolution of the Sea Wolf line. After all, plenty of brands are using ceramic these days – it’s a worthy material by any measure and makes a lot of sense for sports watches in particular, given its light weight and resistance to scratches and wear. Now, Zodiac has introduced a follow up, a ceramic Super Sea Wolf in a crisp white with brightly colored dials, just in time for the true dog days of summer. These watches play into a tried and true formula that has served Zodiac remarkably well over the last years, which is to lean into bold colors layered over their classic dive watch design. The new white ceramic watches will be available in three variants: dark blue, lime green, and a silver and orange watch that feels like a nod to their popular “Sherbet” GMT from a few years ago. All of the dials have a subtle sunburst finish and the traditional rectangular hands and hour markers that are common to the Super Sea Wolf line. The case construction is the same as last year’s black ceramic model, which means these watches have what is essentially a ceramic shell that is fit over a steel core. The white color of the case and bezel makes for a great complement to the bold dial colors and accents, and immediat...
Time+Tide
While it may not be the first brand you think of when it comes to dive watches, Grand Seiko produces some of the most handsome, robust and accurate dive watches on the market. And the latest Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection SLGA023 diver is a perfect example. Its faceted hi-intensity titanium evolution 9 case, while … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SLGA023 brings unparalleled beauty and accuracy to a dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
How many times can you go back to the well? If you’re Seiko, and the well is the 62MAS, the answer, apparently, is as many times as you’d like. Or, six. By my rough count, that’s how many re-editions of the historically important Seiko diver we’ve seen since 2017, when they began to really lean into the iconography of their first professional dive watch with the SLA017 along with the SPB051, setting a template for both limited edition, higher priced versions of the 62MAS reedition for collectors, and a more value oriented approach for everyday watch enthusiasts, an approach that was arguably perfected with the SPB143 and its many, many variants. Now, just announced, Seiko has revealed a new re-edition of the 62MAS that might be the closest yet to the aesthetic of the original, with a higher end movement that brings the watch into luxury territory. The headline here is that the case size of the new SJE093 is the closest approximation yet to the original watch from 1965. It gets the diameter exactly right at 38mm, and, crucially, comes in at just 12.5mm thick. Those are nearly identical measurements to the original 62MAS, and a whole lot more slender than the reissues, and it’s thanks to a new caliber making its debut in this very watch. The new caliber is the 6L37, which shares an architecture with the 6L35, but has been upgraded to be more durable and resistant to shocks. Seiko says this caliber was made expressly for divers. The “L” series movements are ...
Hodinkee
With this update, Monta makes subtle aesthetic and technical refinements to its signature diver.
Hodinkee
A go-anywhere, do-anything diver with a dash of travel-friendly functionality.
Worn & Wound
We’re in the midst of a long Fourth of July weekend here in the US, which means summer has more than arrived, and if you weren’t already in full colorful dive watch mode, now’s the time to figure out what the poolside, cocktail sipping watch is going to be. Squale, with their new Master x Palombari del Comsubin diver with a bright blue dial, is a late entry in the ongoing summer watch sweepstakes. The watch combines a unique piece of Italian military heritage into its design, and represents a surprising first for the brand. It’s also likely that its impressive specs can handle time at the beach, the pool, waiting around at the airport, and a whole lot more this vacation season. The watch is based on Squale’s Master Marina Militare platform, relaunched in 2022 but with roots going back to the 1960s. The overall design here is 100% tool diver, with a simple, unfussy case, and a dial that’s similarly focused on the important stuff, namely legibility and providing plenty of lume via a sandwich dial construction. The seal on the dial at 6:00 is that of the Comsubin dive team, an elite segment of the Italian Navy that specializes in the most complex underwater operations. The bright blue shade used for the dial is both a Squale signature and an homage to the Comsubin uniform, which is a similar tone. Squale says that the Comsubin played a key role in the design of the watch, which is specced to handle just about anything they might encounter – members of the team...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Monta just announced the third-gen version of their signature dive watch, the Monta Oceanking. Get a closer look at this flagship diver.
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