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Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: Highlighting Technicity With Transparency Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Oct 8, 2021

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: Highlighting Technicity With Transparency

For the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire, Armin Strom teamed up with Kari Voutilainen to give the backplate a refined guilloche motif. We clearly see the hand of the master in this: while the design of the guilloche is not particularly outgoing, it shows its refinement in the way that it is draped around the other parts of the watch. It gently directs the eye to all the right places, allowing admiration for this technical-looking piece to grow.

Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service" Hodinkee
Bremont Oct 3, 2021

Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service"

What is it about spy movies and watches? Bond had his Rolex (and now his OMEGA) and Bourne had his TAG Heuer. Those characters’ movies featured watches as subtle (okay, sometimes not so subtle) product placements. But the forthcoming spy thriller “Kingsman: The Secret Service” not only has watches front and center, its producers and costume designers also actually had three watches commissioned especially for it. Those watches are from Bremont, based on two of the brand’s existing chronographs, but with some unique features and the fictional secret organization’s logo on their dials.

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Time+Tide
Blancpain who each began production Sep 17, 2021

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961

Let’s take a quick dip into diving watch history. The brands who really birthed the category as we know it today are Rolex/Tudor and Blancpain – who each began production of their dive watches in 1953 (it should also be noted that Zodiac introduced their Sea Wolf diver in 1953 as well). Brands such as … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Origins of the G-SHOCK MRG-B2000BS-3A Hana-Basara Revolution
Casio R&D; Sep 8, 2021

Origins of the G-SHOCK MRG-B2000BS-3A Hana-Basara

Revolution speaks with Mr Shingo Ishizaka from Casio R&D;, the key engineer behind the G-SHOCK MRG-B2000BS-3A Hana-Basara and Mr Kazuhito Komatsu, a master precious stone and pearl cutter and polishing expert, and also the man who lent his art to the extraordinary finishing applied to the Hana-Basara’s COBARION bezel. The word “Basara”, which is derived from the Sanskrit word for diamond, is a term of respect used for only the most bold and honorable of samurai, and it is this word that has inspired G-SHOCK’s new limited-edition MR-G, the MRG-B2000BS-3A “Hana-Basara”, which celebrates the 25th anniversary of G-SHOCK’s flagship collection. In feudal Japan, the Basara Busho were the boldest of the samurai, renowned in battle for their expressive, and indeed, artistic armor, and it is from them that the MRG-B2000BS-3A takes its design cues. Crafted with an ultra-hard COBARION bezel and case made from DAT55G titanium, (COBARION is about 4 times harder than titanium, while DAT55G is 3 times harder than titanium), the Hana-Basara is ideally suited to embody the fighting spirit of its namesakes. In fact, the direct inspiration for this singular G-SHOCK was a one-off suit of armor commissioned by Casio from famed armorer atelier, Suzukine Yuzan. The bezel and bracelet are rendered in a deep green DLC finish called “kurogane-iro”, while the case is treated with a brown AIP (arc ion plating) finish, which echo traditional samurai colors. But the real star of the sho...

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Aug 24, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow

The most extravagant watch to date in 2021 has arrived courtesy of Hublot – the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow. Combining Hublot’s signature porthole face with the integrated bracelet introduced last year, the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow has almost every surface set with coloured gemstones. And ticking away inside is an in-house movement with a tourbillon and clear sapphire bridges. Initial thoughts Rainbow watches are the “it” watches of our era, with the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” being the most famous of the multi-coloured, gem-set timepieces. But now Hublot has taken it to the outlandish next level. The Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow is a lot, probably too much, but it’s also a stunning example of gem setting – proof comes in the form of 36 carats of stones – with an unusually interesting movement. The movement will probably be overlooked by whoever buys either of the two unique examples, but it is quite accomplished in a technical sense: an automatic tourbillon wound by a micro-rotor, with everything held in place by clear sapphire bridges. Contrasting starkly with the densely saturated case, the movement is light and airy in its layout, with its wheels appearing to be floating within the case thanks to the transparent bridges. The only glaring shortcoming in its technical features is the Etachron regulator index for the tourbillon. It’s entirely functional, but typically found in less expensive watches. Even though I would not ...

In-Depth: The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal. 3861 SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal Aug 19, 2021

In-Depth: The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal. 3861

Having finally retired the decades-old version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch powered by the cal. 1861, Omega announced its successor at the start of the year. Equipped with the new cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm is the result of a thorough makeover, with all its parts – from the case and bracelet to the dial and movement – reworked in nearly every respect. The latest version (left) and its predecessor While that seems to imply a radical change, it’s near impossible to tell the new and old versions apart. Despite being all encompassing, the improvements are subtle. From an aesthetic perspective, the Moonwatch remains as it was in the mid 1960s, when the straight lugs of the earlier generations were replaced with the twisted, “lyre” lugs that are now a defining feature of the model. That leads to the obvious question:  if the two generations are nearly identical, is the new version any better? Briefly put, yes. Two upgrades elevate the new Moonwatch in a tangible and substantial manner. One lies in the detail of its design: the face has a bit more flair thanks to greater distinction between the different levels of the dial. And the other lies on the inside: the new cal. 3861 gets most of Omega’s state-of-the-art innovations, resulting in improved timekeeping, as well as a useful level of magnetism resistance. The new cal. 3861 (left) and the cal. 1863 (the dressed-up version of the ...

Cartier Transforms the Baignoire Allongée Into a Gold-Mesh Glove SJX Watches
Cartier Transforms Aug 18, 2021

Cartier Transforms the Baignoire Allongée Into a Gold-Mesh Glove

A master of often extravagant, occasionally whimsical, jewelled timepieces, Cartier has just debuted the Mitten Watch. Despite the plain name, the Mitten Watch is a dramatic blend of the jeweller’s longstanding oval watch case – the Baignoire Allongée – and a half glove of woven rose gold, finished with a sprinkling of over 1,500 diamonds. The Mitten Watch is the first unique wristwatch in Clash [Un]limited, a riff on the Clash line up of edgy jewellery. A step upwards in both exclusivity and creativity, Clash [Un]limited is a collection of watches and jewellery made up entirely of limited editions or unique creations. The Baignoire Allongée camouflaged within the rose gold mesh  Initial thoughts Watches as jewellery are unsurprisingly a specialty of Cartier’s. Past examples include watches shaped like an overflowing bathtub, inspired by animals, and of course the famous Crash. But still the Mitten Watch still manages to stand out – it is quite a special creation. Being a metallic half glove certainly makes the watch interesting in both form and function, but the execution really brings the idea to life. The Baignoire Allongée – French for “elongated bathtub” – is perhaps the ideal choice for the design, with its stretched but slim profile that’s prominent enough to be visible, yet sleek enough not to be obtrusive, against the mesh glove. And then there are the diamonds that cascade outwards from the watch, giving the mitten a dynami...

G-Shock mania at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics as top athletes vote with their wrists Time+Tide
Richard Mille Aug 6, 2021

G-Shock mania at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics as top athletes vote with their wrists

We’ve seen quite a collection of watches captured on the wrists of various athletes at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, everything from Rolex, F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and more. But I suspect if I were to poll the larger watch community, and ask which watch in your collection would you wear if you were competing, … ContinuedThe post G-Shock mania at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics as top athletes vote with their wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Memorialises Classic 1930s Sailboat Eilean SJX Watches
Panerai Memorialises Classic 1930s Sailboat Jul 22, 2021

Panerai Memorialises Classic 1930s Sailboat Eilean

Panerai’s latest is unusual relative to its recent launches that are clearly contemporary designs – the Radiomir Eilean PAM 1243 is a traditionally-styled special edition that commemorates the eponymous sailboat built in 1936, the year the brand started supplying the Italian military with its waterproof wristwatches. Panerai acquired Eilean in 2006, after its former chief executive Angelo Bonati – a keen sailor with a fondness for old school sailboats – spotted the derelict yacht in Antigua. Three years of restoration made it seaworthy again, and now the boat occasionally sails as a roving ambassador for the watchmaker. While its outline and layout are familiar, the Radiomir Eilean incorporates details not commonly found on Panerai watches, such as the pinstriped dial inspired by the teak deck of Eilean. And the case has a special, “aged” finish first seen on the Radiomir 8 Days PAM 992 of 2019 that’s simultaneously shiny and matte, giving it a lived-in feel but not quite vintage. Engraving is done on the case side, leaving the dial clean Initial thoughts The Radiomir Eilean has most of the features that make for an appealing Panerai wristwatch, including a good-looking palette and discreet, interesting details across the dial and case – except for the oversized Eilean emblem on the case side. The mix of new and old in the design will not be for everyone, but I like it. Particularly attractive are the vintage-y colours, which have all been used before, b...

Adrien Brody proves sporty and elegant are not mutually exclusive with an IWC Portugieser Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Jul 2, 2021

Adrien Brody proves sporty and elegant are not mutually exclusive with an IWC Portugieser

One debate that continues to rage within the watch community is whether or not sports models are considered kosher with formalwear. On the one hand, the suave spy James Bond popularised the dynamic, wearing watches like the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster with a tuxedo. But the question remains whether or not the combination truly … ContinuedThe post Adrien Brody proves sporty and elegant are not mutually exclusive with an IWC Portugieser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings Jun 29, 2021

The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed

This year, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport, a killer 41mm chronograph that presented buyers with a more technically intriguing alternative to the popular Rolex Daytona. It has since proved a hit success at retail, with initial allocations immediately snagged by buyers worldwide. But Zenith purists have been itching for a bit more of a nostalgia-driven … ContinuedThe post The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? Time+Tide
Richard Mille thrill you or make Jun 27, 2021

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate?

Are you on team Rolex or team Omega? Does the horological excess of Richard Mille thrill you or make you shudder? In the world of luxury brands emotions can run deep. This week I discovered an intriguing exploration into the fickle world of consumer behaviour, in the Jing Daily newsletter and a story entitled: “Why … ContinuedThe post Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Deployant
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic DEPLOYANT Jun 26, 2021

Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor adds a new material to its growing list of Black Bay variants, with the new Black Bay Ceramic. This is the first time a full ceramic case is used on a regular production model, succeeding an earlier Only Watch 2019 all black model. Other notable changes include METAS certification, an anti-magnetic movement, and a two-liner dial instead of the usual Rolex style 'paragraph'.

Radio host throws birthday gift watch into the ocean because it wasn’t expensive enough Time+Tide
Jun 21, 2021

Radio host throws birthday gift watch into the ocean because it wasn’t expensive enough

Radio shock jock Kyle Sandilands has built a wildly successful career out of being brash and obnoxious. Last week the king of Sydney’s FM airwaves celebrated his 50th birthday in true Kyle style. To mark the big five-oh, the former presenter of Big Brother and Australian Idol rented a modest “super-yacht” to tour the waters … ContinuedThe post Radio host throws birthday gift watch into the ocean because it wasn’t expensive enough appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jun 15, 2021

Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay?

We’ve grown used to seeing jaw-dropping auction results for two brands: Rolex and Patek Philippe. But recently, the prices of one French-founded jewellery and watchmaking house have begun to climb. That’s right, Cartier is hot, with prices rising not only across the more common models, but also the top lots in auction catalogues. But what … ContinuedThe post Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Living With: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” SJX Watches
Breitling Premier B01 wh Jun 14, 2021

Living With: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda”

Tudor was founded in 1946 expressly to offer good value, specifically, its founder Hans Wilsdorf (who’s better known to establish Rolex) wanted Tudor watches to offer the trademark dependability of its bigger brother, but at a more accessible price. Seventy-five years later that remains true, with watches like the Black Bay 58 being amongst the best dive watches in its price segment. When I covered the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” at its launch earlier in the year, I wrote it is “likely the best-value sports chronograph one can find under US$5,000”. So I naturally jumped at the opportunity to test drive the watch for a week. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Chrono “Panda” is, on its face, a more accessible alternative to the Rolex Daytona, now virtually impossible to get at retail. The similarities between the two are obvious: a “Panda” dial with one line of red text, screw-down pushers, and a black tachymetre bezel. Yet to simply pigeonhole the Black Bay Chrono “Panda” as a more affordable Daytona would do it a disservice. The Black Bay Chrono possesses enough character to stand on its own. It’s instantly recognisable as a Tudor with the signature “snowflake” hands matched with round indices. Though the new Black Bay Chrono is near identical visually to the first-generation model, it has been refined with a slightly thinner case. Nevertheless, the watch is still relatively thick on the wrist, slightly beefier than the Breitling Premier B01 wh...