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Archimede Reaches to the Past with their Latest Vintage Inspired Pilot’s Watch Worn & Wound
Dec 7, 2023

Archimede Reaches to the Past with their Latest Vintage Inspired Pilot’s Watch

Everybody loves a nice surprise. Right in time for the holiday season, Archimede is releasing a special capsule of their so-called “Vintage Edition” watches. As a callback to an older collection called Classic Retro, these watches are limited in number and designed to stay as true as possible to how a German-made Archimede pilot or field watch would have looked in the last century. There are five variants (one of which is already sold out as of this writing), and each brings its own old world charm. The Archimede Vintage Edition is probably most closely characterized as a pilot’s watch thanks to its legible dial and large onion-shaped crown, but you wouldn’t be out of line calling it a field watch either. Its 42mm stainless steel case is manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim, Germany and is sandblasted all the way around, which gives it a matte finish. The case is 51mm lug to lug and only 9.8 mm thick. The aforementioned crown is large and finished for maximum tactility, while the dial is clearly designed for optimal legibility. A subdivided railroad minute track lives on the outer edge of the dial; in the center, cathedral hands are the focal point. The Arabic numerals at each hour are large and squared off – distinctly Art Deco. Hands and hour markers all receive seemingly generous amounts of lume of varying colors depending on your configuration. On three of the versions in this collection, a date window is discreetly tucked in at three. The other two references...

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Introducing – The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3, The Brand’s New Entry-Level Watch Monochrome
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Dec 7, 2023

Introducing – The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3, The Brand’s New Entry-Level Watch

Greubel Forsey consistently defies convention, ensuring that each of the brand’s timepieces is nothing short of intriguing. In 2019, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey ventured into the sports watch category with the GMT Sport – a distinctive creation that integrated a world-time indication with an inclined tourbillon, but mostly an entirely new convex case design. […]

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How does a watch dial turn tropical? Time+Tide
Dec 5, 2023

How does a watch dial turn tropical?

Throughout history, it’s generally been assumed that something is worth more when it’s in better condition. But just as pre-ripped jeans found their popularity in the 1970s, it’s becoming more and more common to prefer things aged. Well-weathered objects tell a story, and whether or not you think it’s cheating to replicate that look artificially, … ContinuedThe post How does a watch dial turn tropical? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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DOXA Adds Some Elegant Touches to their Iconic Dive Watch with the Sub 300β Worn & Wound
Doxa Adds Some Elegant Touches Dec 5, 2023

DOXA Adds Some Elegant Touches to their Iconic Dive Watch with the Sub 300β

DOXA has recently announced the release of the all new Sub 300β, a reimagining of their classic dive watch. Coming in five colorways, the latest iteration of the Sub 300β will catch the eye of those unfamiliar with the brand, while reiterating why DOXA has sustained a cult-like following for nearly the entirety of its 130-year history. To understand the 300β, let’s first look back at the history of the Sub line. In 1967, DOXA revolutionized professional diving watches with the introduction of the SUB concept, the first mainstream model of its kind. Water-resistant to 300 meters, it featured a groundbreaking unidirectional rotating bezel with dual dive time and depth indications, incorporating the US Navy’s no-decompression dive tables. The iconic orange dial set it apart and became synonymous with underwater exploration, even catching the attention of Jacques-Yves Cousteau, who secured exclusive distribution rights for the SUB 300 in the USA. In 1969, DOXA continued its innovation with the SUB 300T Conquistador, introducing the helium release valve (HRV). Designed for saturation diving, the HRV allows trapped helium to escape during decompression, preventing pressure build-up and potential damage to the watch. This marked another pioneering move by DOXA in ensuring the durability and functionality of their timepieces in the most challenging underwater environments. Now, available today, the new 300β has taken this history as a jumping-off point for the brand to rei...

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Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch Monochrome
Universal Genève Dec 4, 2023

Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch

While the Polerouter by Universal Genève has long been a favourite watch among collectors, its extensive production in various executions has made it accessible for enthusiasts to discover rare or low-production models. However, with the rising popularity of the watch among new collectors, the landscape is evolving, and the thirst for information is growing. To […]

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Men's Watch Gift Guide 2023: 55 Watches for the Holidays Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 30, 2023

Men's Watch Gift Guide 2023: 55 Watches for the Holidays

The holiday season is upon us once again, leaving us all with our three usual questions: Where exactly did 2023 go? Where will I be to ring in the New Year? And what is the perfect watch gift for each of my family members and friends who share my passion for timepieces? We can't help you with the first two questions, but we're definitely here for you on the third. Here, we've put together a list of watches in several categories, with various types of recipients in mind, at a variety of price points. Best of all, many of these watches are available right here in our online shop. For the sophisticated gent: Seiko Presage SRPB43 Price: $319, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 11.8mm, Lug to Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Automatic Seiko 4R35 The “Cocktail Time” series within Seiko’s automatic-only Presage family of attainable, attractive dress watches are designed to evoke the types of high-end cocktails served at Japan’s famously atmospheric rooftop bars. This model with a stainless steel case and a sunray ice-blue dial takes its nickname and inspiration from a classic Martini. The glossy-finish dial’s ridged, rippling edges help give it the look of a birds-eye view inside the cocktail glass; the tone-on-tone date window is a subtle but impressive bonus at this price point, as is the in-house, automatic movement inside. The 40.5-mm case is topped by a box-shaped crystal made of a proprietary Seiko material called H...

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Interview: Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 29, 2023

Interview: Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week

Having began as a small-scale and mostly regional event in 2015 – I was there and thought it would become important one day – Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has since grown into an expansive horological extravaganza with an international audience. With some 23,000 visitors, a 42% increase over the 2021 event, this year’s DWW is the biggest to date. Sixty-three brands took part, ranging from giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Chanel, to independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and H. Moser & Cie. Some brands even launched all-new products at DWW. MB&F;, for instance, launched its headline creation for the year, the HM11, at the event. As Director General of DWW, Hind Seddiqi is one of the individuals who makes DWW possible. We discussed with her vision for DWW, ranging from its emphasis on independent watchmaking to the future of horological education in the region, which includes a WOSTEP watchmaking academy in Dubai. The interview was edited for length and clarity. The MB&F; HM11, one of the watches launched during DWW SJX: I remember the first Dubai Watch Week was inside the mall. Now it’s a separate setup that’s impressive. And even though it’s grown, I like the fact that you retain all the independents. Hind Seddiqi (HS): [Indpendents are] extremely important and if you enter into the [fair] in the afternoons you will see they’re the ones who are the busiest with customers wanting to meet the watchmakers. SJX: How do the independents relate to...

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Roue Introduces Two New Colorways to their TPS Chronograph Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko caliber SII VK63 which Nov 28, 2023

Roue Introduces Two New Colorways to their TPS Chronograph Collection

In 2019 Roue introduced their TPS line chronographs, which are inspired by the Porsche 910 that won the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967. These watches feature both Tachymeter and Pulsometer scales surrounding the dial. Just in case you need to check your pulse, while at the same time measuring your speed.  For 2023, Roue has come up with two more versions of their popular TPS line. Following in the footsteps of the previous five, we have the aptly named Six (with white dial), as well as the Seven (with a graphite/grey dial). Both feature tone on tone subdials with multi-color accents for a look that is inherently cohesive but still visually interesting.  You would think two timing scales would make for a cluttered dial. In this case, you would be wrong. The tachymeter scale begins where the pulsometer ends, neither overlapping the other. It is remarkably clean and easy to read. This clarity is further enhanced by the lack of any text on the dial, apart from the brand name. Powering these chronographs is the Seiko caliber SII VK63, which is a Mecha-Quartz movement. For those that need a refresher, these movements blend quartz timing precision and mechanical chronograph technology. This allows for the tactile pleasure of that satisfying snap when activating the chronograph, along with the second-hand sweep we enthusiasts so enjoy. Aside from these 2 great characteristics, the biggest benefit of using this movement is its size and low cost.  All TPS watches featur...

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Recap: Watches, Diving, & Enthusiasm At Dubai Watch Week Worn & Wound
Urwerk Nov 27, 2023

Recap: Watches, Diving, & Enthusiasm At Dubai Watch Week

Last week marked the 6th edition of Dubai Watch Week, an educational forum and brand exhibition situated in the heart of Dubai’s Financial Center. This is not a commercial event (no watches are sold by the exhibiting brands) but rather an event put on for the community, featuring masterclass sessions around the craft, open forums from watchmakers, and even debates between collectors and media personalities. This year offered a selection of new release announcements and incredible talks to take in (along with some truly epic watch spotting along the way), and we also took the opportunity to take in a bit more of the surrounding region with a few dives, a trip to the world’s tallest building, and even some Formula 1 racing down the coast in Abu Dhabi for good measure.  Dubai Watch Week is organized by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the region, offering everything from Rolex and AP, to Urwerk and MB&F;, many of whom are represented in the fair. The grounds of the fair are open to the public and free to attend (though registration is required), with a strong presence from the local enthusiasts communities and their families. Meeting members of the Dubai Watch Club, as well as some enthusiasts passing through the region to take in the fair (including several from our own W&W;+ Slack channel) was among the highlights of my time in Dubai. The fair itself was split into two sections, with an indoor hall surrounded by an outdoor pathway upon which some of th...

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Don’t Miss These 5 Excellent Talks from Dubai Watch Week Quill & Pad
Nov 26, 2023

Don’t Miss These 5 Excellent Talks from Dubai Watch Week

One of the best things about Dubai Watch Week are the presentations, debates, and talks in the Horology Forum. These cover a very wide range of topic and are usually 45-minutes long with time for audience questions at the end. Here are five that Ian Skellern particularly enjoyed that will hopefully both entertain and educate, as well as give you an idea of the types of diverse topics covered.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Griffin Bartsch Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer II Ref 16570 Nov 24, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Griffin Bartsch

Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, Griffin Bartsch (@cgriffinbartsch on Instagram), a seasoned collector and watch enthusiast, makes his case for value with a trio of watches that punch well above their weight class. In a watch environment where prices keep climbing, it can be tough to find quality and originality that’s budget friendly, and it can be even tougher if you can easily recall a time when these things just weren’t so expensive. But as Griffin points out, there are still great watches to discover at any price point.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Talk to anyone who has been a watch enthusiast or collector long enough and a constant through-line will be that watches cost more than they used to. It’s hard to deny. In the near decade and a half that I have nominally been what could be called a watch collector, the market has experienced a dramatic surge. It’s gotten to the point where it is unavoidable that rising prices have become a pretty standard stop in the flow of conversation at meetups and on forums. Even I am not immune to the temptations of the topic - I have probably mentioned a few too many times that when I was 18 I could have bought a polar dial Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 for the same money as my Martin D-35 (around 3500 bucks). That Martin still floats right around that price today, the Rolex decidedly does not. A result of a...

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[Hands-On] Ming Brings Lightweight and Big Textures to Dubai Watch Week Worn & Wound
Ming Nov 24, 2023

[Hands-On] Ming Brings Lightweight and Big Textures to Dubai Watch Week

Ming has had a deep presence at this year’s edition of Dubai Watch Week, not just with their latest and greatest on display, but with Ming himself offering insights to his process, including creation of the ultra-lightweight LW.01, in the form of a speech given at the beginning of the show. He even found time to challenge Rexhep Rexhepi to a game of foosball in the halls of the show. At the booth, a selection of new Ming releases drew a consistent crowd throughout the week of the show, and we took the opportunity to get a hands-on look at a few of our favorites, including one of the best releases around the fair in Dubai: the 37.08 Sand.  If there’s one thing that Ming has excelled at in recent years it is the delicate interplay between forms and textures, and how they can be harnessed to create a unique dial and case experience. Their skill here was on full display this year in Dubai with two watches in particular, the 37.08 Sand, and the 37.04 Rose Gold. In addition, Ming released a 29.01 Dubai worldtimer for Arabic speaking collectors. A trend we saw realized across many of the exhibiting brands at the fair. Both the 37.08 Sand and 37.04 Rose Gold feature extraordinary dial work, though in very different ways. Beginning with the 37.08 Sand, which Ming says is the first in a series of watches that will showcase deep-relief textured dials, the initial offering does not disappoint in this department. The dial depicts a somewhat ambiguous wave pattern that could be int...

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If You Missed It: Panel Discussions at Dubai Watch Week 2023 SJX Watches
Nov 24, 2023

If You Missed It: Panel Discussions at Dubai Watch Week 2023

There was plenty to see and do around Dubai Watch Week 2023, which just concluded last weekend. Wandering around the glittering hall with showcases full of new releases, and you might run into Rexhep Rexhepi, Maximilian Büsser, and Kari Voutilainen. Punctuating all of this, however, were the insightful panel discussions that happened over the course of Dubai Watch Week (DWW), which was organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East. Covering a wide array of topics and including speakers from an even wider background, it was possible to dip in and out of these discussions throughout the fair. Luckily, they were all recorded and are now available on the DWW YouTube channel. So if you weren’t able to attend the show, or you found yourself stuck between one booth and the next, you can catch up on them at any time. Inside the exhibition hall of DWW The best session of the fair was undoubtedly the in-depth talk given by talented watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell that we quickly recommended in real time. Mr McDonnell provided incredible detail about his work and philosophy in a talk that summarised his horological mind. But we wanted to give some more highlights from across the programme beyond Mr McDonnell, as there is plenty to dig in to. Stephen McDonnell at DWW The first talk of the show focused on a hot button topic, the role of retailers and the allocation of popular watches. Moderated by British journalist Robin Swithinbank, it featured Moh...

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