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Breaking News: Rolex Acquires Watch Retailer Bucherer SJX Watches
Tudor represented Aug 24, 2023

Breaking News: Rolex Acquires Watch Retailer Bucherer

In a surprising move, Rolex has just announced the takeover of Bucherer, the Swiss watch retailer that is the largest seller of Rolex watches worldwide. Long the odd one out amongst luxury watch brands for not having its own retail network – hitherto Rolex owned just one store in Geneva – Rolex now owns the world’s biggest watch retailer outside of China and Hong Kong. Though headquartered in the quaint mountain town of Lucerne, Bucherer is a global giant with 100 points of sale in Europe and the United States, with Rolex and Tudor represented in half of them. A Rolex retailer since 1924, Bucherer boasts annual sales of almost CHF2 billion, with almost two-thirds of that from the sales of Rolex and Tudor watches. As a result, Bucherer is the largest retail partner for Rolex, accounting for almost 10% of Rolex’s estimated CHF10 billion in turnover. It was no coincidence that Bucherer was the first retailer in the world to embark on the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme. Bucherer will remain as an independent business after the takeover, which has to be approved by competition authorities. The terms of the sale were undisclosed. A logical surprise Although the news of the takeover was unexpected, it is a logical progression of events. Established in 1888, Bucherer has been in the hands of its founding family since then, with the company currently led by Jorg G. Bucherer, grandson of founder Carl F. Bucherer. Now almost 90 years old, Mr Bucherer is an industry legen...

EveryWatch, a Charity Watch Auction to Support a Great Cause, Closes Tomorrow Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fears Isotope Sartory Billard Aug 22, 2023

EveryWatch, a Charity Watch Auction to Support a Great Cause, Closes Tomorrow

Cancer affects nearly everyone in some way and organizations like UK-based Maggie’s Centres are trying to mitigate the financial, emotional, and medical toll that the disease takes on families. Over the last week, auction house Lyon & Turnbull and the Scottish Watches podcast have been holding an auction to raise funds for the Glasgow and Edinburgh-based Centres. Working with nine UK and European watch brand brands – Christopher Ward, Fears, Isotope, Sartory Billard, Paulin, Studio Underd0g, Bamford, William Wood, and anOrdain  – Lyon & Turnbull will be auctioning off one-of-a-kind prototype models that were designed specifically for this charity event. If you have ever wanted a Fears Brunswick or a Highlander from Christopher Ward that no one else has, now might just be your time to shop this auction. And while nothing beats the thrill of winning an auction item, the real prize here is knowing that you’re helping others at their most vulnerable. All proceeds from this auction will go directly to Maggie’s, meaning the most funds possible will be provided to further the organization’s cause. The auction ends tomorrow, August 23, at 7:00 PM, so make sure to visit Lyon & Turnbull’s site to place your bid before it’s too late. Images from this post: The post EveryWatch, a Charity Watch Auction to Support a Great Cause, Closes Tomorrow appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Amazing Live Sea-Monkeys Aquarium Watch Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2023

The Amazing Live Sea-Monkeys Aquarium Watch

There are a lot of weird watches in the world, from a slime-powered smartwatch to one that will tell you when you’re going to die. People are always looking for something unique, to stand out as a conversation piece. But, would you resort to a watch which can carry around live animals? The Amazing Live … ContinuedThe post The Amazing Live Sea-Monkeys Aquarium Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Opinion: When to Sell a Watch Worn & Wound
Aug 18, 2023

Opinion: When to Sell a Watch

Last week, a conversation began in our Worn & Wound+ Slack community about how you know it’s the right time to sell a watch. We thought it would be fun to get the team together, to find out what the determining factor is for everyone on how you come to the difficult (or not so difficult) decision to let something go. There are a lot of variables at play, from wear time, to financial considerations, to pure laziness, that determine when or if a watch gets sent to the classified listings of our favorite enthusiast forums. Check out the reasoning for these decisions among our editorial staff and team of contributors below, and be sure to let us know in the comments how you know that it’s the right time to sell a watch. Zach Kazan My approach to determining when to sell a watch is anything but scientific. In fact, I don’t know that you’d say I have an “approach” at all. It’s governed primarily by the unfortunate financial reality that I can’t actually afford to own every watch I’d like to have in my collection, and the creeping anxiety of seeing watches unworn in the watch box, day after day, month after month, year after year. I don’t let it get to that point, however, for fear that I might completely and utterly lose my damn mind.  The primary factor, though, that actually determines when I’ll list a watch for sale, is my own laziness. Whether it’s the fact that I work in the watch industry day in and day out, or the absolute hellscape that is r/watc...

Raging Against the Machine in Talkeetna, Alaska: The Impossible Watch Company Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Baltic Aug 9, 2023

Raging Against the Machine in Talkeetna, Alaska: The Impossible Watch Company

Impossible Watch Company, based in Talkeetna, Alaska, has a name with a double meaning. Chris, the owner of the brand, told me he called it “Impossible” because it seemed like such a tall task for a watch industry outsider to get a brand off the ground. “I had to jump through so many hoops,” he said, referring to the start-up process and the various logistical challenges he faced when starting the company. And Chris has other irons in the fire besides his watch brand – he’s an old school entrepreneur with hugely varied interests, making Impossible Watch Company (IMP for short) even more of a challenge. And yet, here he is, with a growing following on Instagram, and a website full of sold out listings. As a friend pointed out to him after the brand started to gain some traction, the name works in the case of success too: “I M Possible.”  On the one hand, IMP is not unlike a whole bunch of other small, independently run brands. It’s a one man operation, and the watches have a vintage inspired aesthetic that will naturally garner comparisons to those made by Furlan Marri, Baltic, and others. But look closer, and there’s something else happening here, something equal parts compelling (in terms of the watchmaking) and subversive. Sure, there’s a sector dial chronograph in the collection that on the surface has some fairly obvious similarities to watches made by those brands mentioned above. But there are also time only watches with sterile stone dials. An...

Only Watch out – EveryWatch is the new piece unique auction in town Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2023

Only Watch out – EveryWatch is the new piece unique auction in town

First of all I’d like to apologise for the punny title – it was simply too tempting. Slated to take place from August 16-23, the EveryWatch charity auction is a collaborative effort between Edinburgh’s Lyon & Turnbull auction house, fellow enthusiasts over at Scottish Watches, and nine independent brands whose great generosity is set to … ContinuedThe post Only Watch out – EveryWatch is the new piece unique auction in town appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

D.C.’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 30, 2023

D.C.’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

The Only Watch auction not only benefits a great cause (Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research), but it’s also an event that really lets watchmakers run rampant and show off their horological chops. It’s almost like the watch world’s version of the Met Gala, where designers can truly cut loose, free of the bonds of commerce, and … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Richard Mille Jul 26, 2023

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained

Barely more than two decades in existence, Richard Mille is one of the luxury watch industry’s most compelling modern success stories and one of the most popular and recognizable brands out there - despite the fact that it makes timepieces that are wildly inaccessible to all but the most deep-pocketed and well-connected aficionados. To many who follow the industry, the brand’s stratospheric prices are the story: In 2022, for example, Richard Mille did $487 million in sales, despite the fact that it only made 5,400 watches that year. Yes, that averages out to more than $90,000 per watch, and even that rather stunning stat doesn’t represent the big picture, as many of Richard Mille’s most coveted models come in at an MSRP in the neighborhood of half a million dollars or more. In its 2023 analysis of the Swiss watch market, Morgan Stanley reports that Richard Mille is now the sixth largest Swiss watch brand in the world in terms of sales, right behind Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. So why are Richard Mille watches so expensive and what factors set them apart from every other watchmaker in the highest echelons of horology? Read on.  Origins: The Man Behind Richard Mille Watches The foundations of the Richard Mille watch brand reach back to 1988, when its namesake, Richard Mille, Head of Watchmaking and CEO of Jewellery at Paris-based jewelry house Mauboussin, met Dominique Guenat, owner of Guenat SA Montres Valgine, a watchmaker in the S...

Martin Green’s Top Ten Favorite Watches of Only Watch 2023 Quill & Pad
Jul 26, 2023

Martin Green’s Top Ten Favorite Watches of Only Watch 2023

By auctioning off unique pieces explicitly made for Only Watch, Luc Pettavino has given the brands a platform to go all in and all out. Many brands seize this opportunity to take their work to an even higher level, while collectors lust over the opportunity to own a unique watch from their favorite brands. Here are Martin Green’s Top Ten, and the last one, which is his absolute favorite!

Daniel Arsham x Hublot: The watch ambassador without a watch – yet… Time+Tide
Hublot Jul 22, 2023

Daniel Arsham x Hublot: The watch ambassador without a watch – yet…

As Disney CEO Bob Iger has suggested due to the onslaught of Marvel films and series, the resulting saturation of watch brand collaborations has created a sense of collaboration-fatique for watch consumers. With each new collaborative piece, the novelty perhaps weans a tad. Of course, if a collaboration is solid, people get very excited – … ContinuedThe post Daniel Arsham x Hublot: The watch ambassador without a watch – yet… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Favorites From the Only Watch 2023 Collection Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds I’ve Jul 21, 2023

Our Favorites From the Only Watch 2023 Collection

We’ve talked about it on a podcast, and we’ve written about some high profile releases, but now the time has come for the Worn & Wound team to pick their favorites from this year’s Only Watch. We’ve had a few weeks to digest over 60 piece uniques, and, collectively, we’re ready to name the ones we’d gladly bid on, if only we ran hedge funds or happened to come into vast sums of heretofore unknown generational wealth in the next few months. This year’s crop of watches is truly special, with some brands getting creative and striking bold new paths, and others reverting to heritage in the best way possible.  Without further ado, our picks for our favorite watches in this year’s auction are below. Be sure to let us know what your favorite watches are from the sale in the comments below.  Blake Buettner – TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds I’ve always had something of a love/hate relationship with TAG Heuer’s Monaco, generally preferring the simple, old school approach to some of the zanier creations we’ve seen over the years. So it came as a surprise that, upon seeing the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds For Only Watch, I was kind of smitten. The floating dial structure works, and they went all-in on the case itself with a texturised titanium, so the whole thing works together rather than looking like a modern dial in a vintage case. Plus, just look at the shape of the running seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock.  It’s not just the crazy exterior that works ...

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2023

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

Picking out my favourite references for this year’s Only Watch auctions, I was pretty shocked to realise how much my tastes have changed over the last handful of years. Some of these brands I even used to hate, although I won’t be admitting which ones. Only Watch is the perfect chance for brands to change … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zach’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2023

Zach’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

Only Watch is probably my favourite endeavour within the watch industry. It is the ultimate horological win-win-win scenario. First and foremost, the charity auction raises a ton of money for a great cause. Only Watch was founded in 2005 by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (a genetic disease that … ContinuedThe post Zach’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023” SJX Watches
Omega Jul 10, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023”

For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial.  Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards.  But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...

The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2023

The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal

Sapphire is one of the most exotic materials for a watch case these days. Notorious for being incredibly hard to work with, the material has yet to appear in more affordable models; however, ArtyA is on the right track with their new sporty summer release, the AquaSaphir. ArtyA is a small independent brand from Switzerland, … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2023

Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece

E-waste. It’s an ever-growing problem, and one without easy solutions. Clearly, innovative thinking is needed, including new methods of manufacturing, recycling, and even upcycling when an electronic product reaches the end of its useful life. And while this example isn’t the answer, it is a showcase for some truly innovative thinking, as well as a … ContinuedThe post Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch Time+Tide
Baltic Brew or Boldr there Jul 8, 2023

Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch

Some microbrands just get it. Their designs are elegant, their execution flawless, their carefully chosen components top-notch, and their customer experience first-rate. But for every Baltic, Brew, or Boldr, there are scads of ill-conceived releases that, for one reason or another, can cause my eye to twitch uncontrollably. A handset that’s all wrong. An off-putting … ContinuedThe post Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF! Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2023

Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF!

Watchmaking is a source of pride for various regions. Of course the most famous are the Swiss, but Japan, Britain, Germany also proudly boast high quality watchmaking – where each region has their own personal stamp on the art form. The USA, once home to a burgeoning watch industry, finds itself working back towards prestige, … ContinuedThe post Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Hublot Introduces the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire

Hublot has once again partnered with its favourite contemporary artist for Only Watch 2023: the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire is a one-of-a-kind creation for the biennial charity auction that is entirely unique from case to movement. Not only it is the brand’s first-ever central tourbillon, the watch has a sapphire crystal case in the shape of a flower with a bezel set with rainbow gemstones. Initial thoughts While Hublot is sometimes made fun of for its often repetitive limited editions that are colour facelifts, the creation for Only Watch is entirely new and entirely unique. Hublot and the Japanese artist have collaborated in the past, but on watches that were variants of standard models. In contrast, the Murakami Only Watch  pushes boundaries even by Hublot’s extravagant standards with a case entirely in sapphire, and flower-shaped no less. The Murakami Only Watch is also interesting mechanically. The calibre inside has a 150-hour power reserve along with a large, central tourbillon on the front. And the movement is unique to the Murakami Only Watch, at least for now. The aesthetic and mechanical novelty of the Murakami Only Watch are impressive and certainly makes this one of the highlights of Only Watch 2023. While Hublot will almost certainly create variations of this in the future, the effort expended in creating Murakami Only Watch is commendable. The Murakami Only Watch has an estimate of CHF350,000 to CHF400,000, with the high estimate being a ...

Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Flannel Flower” watch to help Australian wildlife Time+Tide
Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Jul 5, 2023

Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Flannel Flower” watch to help Australian wildlife

Australia has the highest rate of mammal extinction in the world with nearly one in three of our unique mammals at risk of dying out. The Foundation for National Parks & Wildlife are the charity partner of Australia’s national parks, ensuring that our wildlife and wilderness are conserved for future generations. What’s all this got to do … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Flannel Flower” watch to help Australian wildlife appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Oceanking Returns: Monta Introduces Version Three of their Signature Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Monta Jun 30, 2023

The Oceanking Returns: Monta Introduces Version Three of their Signature Dive Watch

Following the continued success of the second generation Oceanking, St. Louis-based brand Monta just released their third iteration of the dive-inspired watch. Making intuitive tweaks to the design, the third generation of the Oceanking shows the capabilities of Monta and that there’s always room for improvement. The first thing to notice about the new-and-improved Oceanking is the bezel. With a focus on tactility and functionality, the new bezel features a ceramic insert that’s easier to read due to upgraded indices, typeface, and a lume pip at the 12 o’clock mark. Second to that is the 120-click action of the bezel assembly, which is suspended on three ball-pushers. The configuration of this assembly is totally unique to Monta and is currently patent-pending, making it an innovative feather in the microbrand’s cap. Much of the design principles of previous Oceankings have stuck around, with small tweaks to make it all the more refined for new customers and longtime fans of the brand. The dial has refreshed lume, a larger date aperture, and new text orientation. It’s small adjustments like these that make me confident that Monta is paying attention to every single detail and working closely with their Swiss manufacturing partners to bring us something special. Beyond the visual tweaks, one can expect even more adjustments made at the technical level as well. While the case clocks in at 40.7mm (same as Gen. 2), it is 0.2mm thinner than the previous generation. Th...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The 62 Only Watch 2023 lots have been unveiled – these are 10 standouts Time+Tide
Tudor FXD watches Jun 30, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The 62 Only Watch 2023 lots have been unveiled – these are 10 standouts

As far as weekly watch news goes, this week really packed in a lot of excitement. A new “Summer Blue” Omega Seamaster 75th Anniversary Collection, new carbon-cased Tudor FXD watches, and the unveiling of the 2023 Only Watch charity auction lots to raise money for research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD) and related genetic diseases. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The 62 Only Watch 2023 lots have been unveiled – these are 10 standouts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch Worn & Wound
Tudor Throwback Jun 29, 2023

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch

We’ll have a lot more on our favorite lots from this year’s Only Watch sale next week, but on this day of big Tudor news, we’d be remiss not to mention their contribution to the 2023 edition of the charity auction, a solid gold chronograph inspired by their very first automatic chronograph. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One brings some luxury flair to the auction from the tool watch specialist, in a format that the brand had all but abandoned by the time they relaunched in the US over a decade ago. In addition to being a literal unique piece (as all watches in the Only Watch sale are) this one sports a new caliber that is honestly kind of hard to believe even exists in 2023.  The 12, 6, 9 chronograph display here is a familiar sight to anyone who has dabbled in enthusiast centric chronos – it’s the hallmark layout of the vaunted Valjoux 7750, an ubiquitous caliber if there ever was one, used by more brands than we can possibly count over the years, including, of course, Tudor. The Tudor Prince Chronograph line that made use of these movements as well as the earlier “Big Blocks” dating to the late 1970s have always been collector favorites, coming in a variety of colorways over the years. It differs sharply from modern Tudor chronographs that use their in-house caliber with a 3,6 9 layout that seems to beg for comparisons to the Daytona, which of course is made by Rolex, Tudor’s sister brand. Now that classic layout is back, sort of, with what Tudor describe...

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2023” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Jun 29, 2023

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2023”

The Chronomètre Bleu has taken on somewhat of a cult status among the followers of F.P. Journe. So much so that it has leaked out beyond the brand’s group of core supporters to become one of the most sought after watches on the primary and secondary market today. This year, for Only Watch, F.P. Journe has decided to revisit this popular design and reimagine it as the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif Bleu, which is also a debut for an entirely new calibre.  Initial thoughts While the Chronomètre Bleu is known for being popular among the wider watch community, F.P. Journe’s LineSport models still divide opinion, so combining the sport watch case with the eye-catching dial of the Chronomètre Bleu is a bold choice. Of course, as with everything that F.P. Journe does it is never completely straight forward, the dial on the Furtif Bleu is not a copy of what you see in the Chronomètre Bleu, instead it is translucent enamel with the numbers laser engraved for a matte finish. The one fault I can see with the design of these numerals is the oddly small “6” so as to accommodate “émail”. This feels like it throws the balance off ever so slightly.  The aim of this watch appears to be to make it hard to read, with the very name of it making reference to it being difficult to read unless the dial is directly facing you. While the romantic view of this being that it makes telling time an entirely personal activity, it could also just lead to difficulty whenever in low light set...