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HODINKEE Radio: Why Even Bother To Make A Magazine?
Chatting about the creation, content, and design in the latest issue of HODINKEE Magazine with Nick Marino and designer Mike Renaud.
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Hodinkee
Chatting about the creation, content, and design in the latest issue of HODINKEE Magazine with Nick Marino and designer Mike Renaud.
SJX Watches
A watch auction veteran who has had stints at all the major auction houses – Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips – Sam Hines has just been named managing director of Loupe This, the online-only watch auction platform that was established last year. Mr Hines will be based in Hong Kong, where he will oversee the soon-to-open Loupe This operation in the city. Unlike traditional auctioneers that hold seasonal sales with the online sales in-between, Loupe This has auctions opening and closing every weekday. In the 12 months it’s been in operation, Loupe This has sold over US$15 million of watches, including major lots like a 1967 Cartier Crash “London” that sold for over US$1.5 million. Now also a shareholder in Loupe This, Mr Hines (pictured above left) joins cofounders Eric Ku (centre) and Justin Gruenberg (right), who are both prominent vintage watch dealers in the United States. Having turned a teenage hobby into a profession, Mr Ku got his start as a specialist in vintage Rolex, though he has since diversified into other genres of collectible watches as well as watch restoration and repair. Mr Gruenberg, on the other hand, had watches in his blood, having been born into the business; his father, Donald, was a major vintage watch dealer since the 1980s. The record-setting 1967 Crash that sold on Loupe This in June 2022 The pair decided to form Loupe This to cater to the increasing and unending demand for watches. “The appetite for watches is all year long,...
Deployant
We caught up with Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith recently when he was in Singapore and he gave us some interesting inside look at the grand maison.
Time+Tide
To be honest, there’s no shortage of racing-inspired chronographs in the world. The inherent link between motorsports and watchmaking essentially guarantees that brands will leap on that theme for design, with elements of high-precision engineering and timing-based supremacy binding the two worlds together. So, with the popular genre so saturated, what do the young French … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...
SJX Watches
Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...
Time+Tide
What is the main purpose of a watch? Many would say it’s to simply tell us the time. But I think there are too many collectors out there that would beg to differ. In many ways, to them, the true purpose of a watch tends to be quite a personal thing. With that in mind, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Genesis collection from Adam Benedict can actively help you to feel less stressed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Bulgari have spent the last decade focusing on the Octo Finissimo as the flagship for their haute-horology endeavours, however there’s a growing movement from the Octo Roma range to offer more variety in the world of high-end art watches. The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng is one of their boldest Roma designs … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...
SJX Watches
Having debuted the world’s first titanium wristwatch in 1970 – it was the X-8 Chronometer with a case of nearly pure titanium – Citizen now boasts some 50 years of experience with the lightweight metal. Now the brand has taken its materials expertise into outer space, literally. Citizen supplies its proprietary Super Titanium alloy to ispace, a Japanese company that specialises in robotic spacecraft technology for landers and rovers. Ispace utilises Super Titanium for the legs of the lunar lander slated to launch around the end of 2022. Known as Hakuto-R, the ispace lunar programme now as its own commemorative watch, the Citizen Hakuto-R Collaboration Satellite Wave GPS F950. Its case is naturally Super Titanium but some components are made of “Recrystallised Titanium”, a unique, textured alloy that evokes the Moon’s surface. Initial thoughts Like many high-end quartz watches, the Hakuto-R is an electronic grand complication – it features a perpetual calendar, world time, a 1/20th of a second chronograph, and then some. Though this isn’t the first Hakuto-R collaboration, it is the most appealing in terms of aesthetics. It looks the part for a high-end quartz watch – even without the GPS sync it will run within five seconds a month. It has busy, complex aesthetics entirely appropriate for a watch packed with various cutting-edge features. But like Citizen’s other high-end electronic watches, also excellent fit and finish on the external components suc...
Time+Tide
Australian hip-hop or skip-hop may be something of an acquired taste, but the biggest players on the local scene are undoubtedly the Hilltop Hoods. The Adelaide rappers have enjoyed multi-platinum success and recently set the record for the most No. 1 albums by any Aussie group with six of their eight albums hitting the top … ContinuedThe post G-Shock make a hip-hop remix of the GBA800 in a collaboration with Hilltop Hoods appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Three technologies that surprisingly made their way into dive watches.
Hodinkee
Tour the seas with the world-class underwater photographer and Seiko ambassador.
Hodinkee
Globetrotting fan service with a very familiar look and feel.
SJX Watches
Having received a facelift in 2019, the Seiko 5 Sports collection draws on the ubiquitous and much loved “SKX” dive watch for its styling, but is lighter on features and easier on the wallet. Now Seiko has unveiled the Seiko 5 Sports Style GMT, which looks even more like an SKX thanks to its five-link bracelet. But its key feature is actually a major function upgrade: the two-tone bezel and 24-hour hand make it a dual-time zone travel watch. The SSK003 with a blue-and-black bezel and red GMT hand Initial thoughts Though similar to the base-model Seiko 5 Sports, the GMT distinguishes itself by virtue of design. It possesses the same overall look but boasts more refined stylistic details like the five-link bracelet and bezel with smart typography, which gives it a more upscale look than the standard model. At the same time, the GMT has a bit more flair than an actual SKX diver (which is a nevertheless is a more accomplished dive watch) as a result of its dual time zone function. I like the added colour contrast between the 24-hour hand and dial, as well as the subtly two-tone bezel. And even though it has more elements due to the extra function, the design and details are restrained. And it’s worth mentioning that while the bracelet has the same Jubilee-esque aesthetics as that of the SKX diver, it has been upgraded with solid end links, which means it should feel less dinky that the SKX bracelet. All three versions are executed well The only downside of the watch i...
SJX Watches
Founded by a duo who each hail from families long involved in Swiss watchmaking, Norqain is only four years old but has managed to firmly establish its identity as a maker of affordable sports watches. The brand is now helmed by young team with an average age of 35 – now the average is being nudged upwards by the addition of Jean-Claude Biver to Norqain’s board. “My role… allows me to be associated with an exciting brand in an essential price-point for the Swiss watch industry,” says Mr Biver in the announcement of his appointment, “It is very important to have strong Swiss independent brands in different price segments and Norqain offers an exciting challenge to the status quo”. Norqain remains a small brand, but stands out for its use of calibres made by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer majority owned by Tudor and minority owned by Chanel. Perhaps thanks to the strong industrial base of both its owners, Kenissi’s movements are amongst the best in of the price-performance ratio. The brand’s ability to call on a supplier like Kenissi is due in part to its founders, who were born into the industry. Norqain’s lead founder is Ben Küffer, whose father, Marc, once ran Roventa Henex, the private-label watches that is perhaps the biggest of its kind in Switzerland. Another of Norqain’s founders is Ted Schneider, a member of the family that once owned Breitling. Notably, the chief executive of Kenissi is Jean-Paul Girardin, who held the top job at Breitli...
Deployant
In an interesting twist, industry veteran and legend, Jean-Claude Biver joins the new Swiss watch beandNorqain as advisor to the board.
Hodinkee
With a light blue dial straight from the troposphere and into my heart.
Time+Tide
I’ve just snapped up my very first Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it was not the JLC I expected to buy. When most people think of JLC it is the iconic Reverso that springs to mind. For some reason I’ve always hesitated, with the strange thought that I’m not grown up enough to wear one. This is unexplainable, … ContinuedThe post Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We take a detailed look at the new Glashütte Original SeaQ in red gold after a week on our wrists and experiencing the watch for ourselves first hand.
Time+Tide
The domination of the Swiss watch industry feels like an eternal truth, especially given the age of some of the most popular brands which stretch back hundreds of years. They may have always had the upper hand when it came to high-end complications and ornate decoration worthy of royalty, but there was a period of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Our head of content and magazine design director share their creative process, from photography to typography – and explain all those mysterious runes on the cover.
Time+Tide
Given that nostalgia often feels like the dominant mode of inspiration for modern watchmaking – heritage reissue, anyone? – Timex’s collaboration with Stranger Things makes perfect sense. For anyone who grew up in the 1980s, the Netflix show is a retro bonanza. Set in 1983, the show focuses on a tight-knit group of kids in the … ContinuedThe post Timex jumps onto the Stranger Things’ 1980s bandwagon with new capsule collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In 1992, the Master Control collection was introduced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, and along with it, the famed “1000 Hours Control” certification. This is the brand’s famed internal quality control standard, with a testing period that spans six weeks (or 1000 hours). While the Master Control line was first to be subjected to this rigorous standard, itRead More
Hodinkee
Hand-picked selections from the man who created our magazine, our website – and, well, our whole dang company.
Time+Tide
Eschewing the influence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Rallymaster comes courtesy of our friends at Racquet and Maurice de Mauriac.
Deployant
When people come together, brilliant things happen. The same goes for watches, especially watch collaborations between incredible people in their field.
Time+Tide
There are definitely more than 10 of them, but for this week’s crossword let’s see how well you know German watch manufactures that deal in varying levels of price points. Good luck!The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #9 “German Watch Manufactures” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s easy to throw the phrase “museum quality” around when talking about haute horology timepieces, as a multitude of brands are capable of the high-art techniques required to earn that label. However, no matter how many time-consuming handmade techniques a brand perfects, only a brand like Vacheron Constantin are able to reproduce actual historical artworks … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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