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Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Jul 27, 2023

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds

Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet Jul 26, 2023

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained

Barely more than two decades in existence, Richard Mille is one of the luxury watch industry’s most compelling modern success stories and one of the most popular and recognizable brands out there - despite the fact that it makes timepieces that are wildly inaccessible to all but the most deep-pocketed and well-connected aficionados. To many who follow the industry, the brand’s stratospheric prices are the story: In 2022, for example, Richard Mille did $487 million in sales, despite the fact that it only made 5,400 watches that year. Yes, that averages out to more than $90,000 per watch, and even that rather stunning stat doesn’t represent the big picture, as many of Richard Mille’s most coveted models come in at an MSRP in the neighborhood of half a million dollars or more. In its 2023 analysis of the Swiss watch market, Morgan Stanley reports that Richard Mille is now the sixth largest Swiss watch brand in the world in terms of sales, right behind Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. So why are Richard Mille watches so expensive and what factors set them apart from every other watchmaker in the highest echelons of horology? Read on.  Origins: The Man Behind Richard Mille Watches The foundations of the Richard Mille watch brand reach back to 1988, when its namesake, Richard Mille, Head of Watchmaking and CEO of Jewellery at Paris-based jewelry house Mauboussin, met Dominique Guenat, owner of Guenat SA Montres Valgine, a watchmaker in the S...

The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph is a high-contrast proposition with a titanium build Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph Jul 26, 2023

The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph is a high-contrast proposition with a titanium build

The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph adopts the light blue trend in style. Its bright contrasts, moody dial and name take influence from pop music. Between the dial, case and bezel, there’s a lot of interesting texture. The Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph has always been a laid-back, go anywhere, do anything watch.  The new … ContinuedThe post The Raymond Weil Freelancer Pop Bi-Compax Chronograph is a high-contrast proposition with a titanium build appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s a Close Encounter of the Horological Kind with the New UFO Clocks from Ulysse Nardin Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Eagle-eyed watch Jul 25, 2023

It’s a Close Encounter of the Horological Kind with the New UFO Clocks from Ulysse Nardin

Eagle-eyed watch and horology enthusiasts are experiencing a close encounter of the third kind as Ulysse Nardin has dropped three new versions of its avant-garde UFO (Unidentified Floating Object) marine chronometer table clock. Based on the original UFO from 2021, the trio of new colors celebrates Ulysse Nardin’s special relationship with three famed retailers: Swiss-based Bucherer (Ice Blue), Japanese retailer Yoshida (Green), and The Hour Glass (Champagne) in Southeast Asia. The clocks are limited to 30 in each color and are available exclusively through these retailers. Ulysse Nardin commemorated its 175th anniversary back in the spring of 2021 by introducing the first series of UFOs in a batch of 75 examples in dark blue. All sold out quickly. In the fall of that year, at Only Watch, a unique one-off in orange hammered for an eye-watering CHF 380,000. Clearly, there was interest in this unapologetically futuristic take on the marine chronometer – once a crucial tool in navigation at sea and the pinnacle of precision timekeeping. Ulysse Nardin claims this is the fruit of two years of research and development in partnership with L’Épée, whom you may recognize as past collaborators with MB&F;. A closer look at the UFO reveals a product that builds on UN’s history as masters of the marine chronometer while pushing the boundaries of design and engineering. Aesthetically, the UFO is like a JLC Atmos clock that decided to let loose: the half-sphere base houses a tun...

Lookbook: Nixon’s Time Teller Solar is Made for the On-the-Go Lifestyle Worn & Wound
Jul 24, 2023

Lookbook: Nixon’s Time Teller Solar is Made for the On-the-Go Lifestyle

For as long as we’ve known Nixon, they’ve been a force for individualism in action sports and street style. Their best selling Time Teller gets an upgrade with the Time Teller Solar, bringing an added sense of substance to their well-known sense of style. We were stoked to get the latest iteration of this model on the wrists of skaters who call NYC home. We had the pleasure of shooting this crew at the iconic Astoria Skatepark.  These four colorways each strike their own cord of self-expression. They also bring along some new features that help make this an ideal everyday watch for anyone who’s got that on-the-go sorta soul. First and foremost, it’s got those clean, minimalist lines that can really go with apparel. Also, the Time Teller’s solar movement offers the ultimate grab-and-go powertrain. And you’ll be pleasantly surprised by its bracelet’s clasp, designed specifically for full on-the-move adjustments without the need for tools. Overall, Nixon brings-in the form of the Time Teller Solar collection-a no fuss solution made for the always-in-motion lifestyle. The post Lookbook: Nixon’s Time Teller Solar is Made for the On-the-Go Lifestyle appeared first on Worn & Wound.

HANDS-ON: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Jul 23, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

Since their management overhaul became something of a fairytale success story, Parmigiani Fleurier operate under a keen eye from the wristwatch community. From brand confusion to elation, any release from their Tonda PF range is bound to become somewhat of a sensation. When they released their Rattrapante GMT last year, the notion of a perfectly … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 2: The Seiko Museum in Ginza Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 2 Jul 23, 2023

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 2: The Seiko Museum in Ginza

After having a blast in Morioka, getting intimate with all things Grand Seiko 9S mechanical at Studio Shizukuishi, we returned to Ginza to check out a few sites heavily tied with the Seiko Corporation – the first of which being the Seiko Museum Ginza. There is no better place in the world to visit to … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 2: The Seiko Museum in Ginza appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex, Patek, AP, VC - you can only wear one for life. These were your responses… Time+Tide
Rolex Patek AP VC – Jul 22, 2023

Rolex, Patek, AP, VC - you can only wear one for life. These were your responses…

For a watch collector, horological monogamy is a huge challenge. The idea of limiting yourself to one watch, or one brand, is enough to give most watch collectors the sweats. But we like to have fun at Time+Tide. So we challenged you all to pick one of four brands in part one. The challenge: you … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Patek, AP, VC – you can only wear one for life. These were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Favorites From the Only Watch 2023 Collection Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds I’ve Jul 21, 2023

Our Favorites From the Only Watch 2023 Collection

We’ve talked about it on a podcast, and we’ve written about some high profile releases, but now the time has come for the Worn & Wound team to pick their favorites from this year’s Only Watch. We’ve had a few weeks to digest over 60 piece uniques, and, collectively, we’re ready to name the ones we’d gladly bid on, if only we ran hedge funds or happened to come into vast sums of heretofore unknown generational wealth in the next few months. This year’s crop of watches is truly special, with some brands getting creative and striking bold new paths, and others reverting to heritage in the best way possible.  Without further ado, our picks for our favorite watches in this year’s auction are below. Be sure to let us know what your favorite watches are from the sale in the comments below.  Blake Buettner – TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds I’ve always had something of a love/hate relationship with TAG Heuer’s Monaco, generally preferring the simple, old school approach to some of the zanier creations we’ve seen over the years. So it came as a surprise that, upon seeing the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds For Only Watch, I was kind of smitten. The floating dial structure works, and they went all-in on the case itself with a texturised titanium, so the whole thing works together rather than looking like a modern dial in a vintage case. Plus, just look at the shape of the running seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock.  It’s not just the crazy exterior that works ...

Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ 02R Aerolite Worn & Wound
Jul 20, 2023

Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ 02R Aerolite

Direnzo is a brand that I’m fortunate enough to have followed closely over the last few years, first taking a look at the DRZ03 ‘Eclipse’ and following that up with hands-on reviews of the DRZ 04 ‘Mondial’ and DRZ 05 ‘Solaris’. It has been fun to see the early stages of the evolution of the brand while it remains resolutely faithful to its design language. The next stage of this evolution is to revisit and rework an early, but important, model for the brand – the DRZ 02. That happens to be the release before I truly became aware of the brand, so isn’t a reference that I’ve had the pleasure of going hands-on with before. While the DRZ 02R ‘Aerolite’ may be similar to its predecessor in case outline and dial layout, the ‘R’ in the model name stands for ‘Reduced’, which gives a hint to one significant change. It could equally stand for ‘Refined’ as Direnzo founder and designer Sergio Godoy continues to hone his design skills and pursue quality. Another major update is the presence of a stainless steel bracelet to complete the package. I couldn’t fit this in with the ‘R’ theme, but if you have a suggestion, drop it in the comments! $750 Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ 02R Aerolite Case Stainless steel Movement Sellita SW-200-1 Elaboré Dial Black, Purple, Gray, Blue, Burnt Orange Lume BGW9 SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire with anti-reflective coating Strap Steel bracelet Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 39mm x 44mmmm Thickness 10.8mm Lug Wi...

The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment Worn & Wound
Norqain Wild ONE Gets Jul 20, 2023

The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment

This one seems like it was bound to happen. When Norqain unveiled the Wild ONE last year and hailed it as a next-gen, materials focused sports watch, it seemed clear that we’d get some ultra modern dial executions down the line to match the tech in the case. I was a pretty big fan of the first batch of Wild ONEs, but if there was an element that seemed a little “off” to me it was the dial. The repeating Norqain logo motif just didn’t seem to match the visual tone and vibe of the rest of the watch. I couldn’t quite put my finger on what would make it better, but with the new skeletonized version that was recently unveiled, I think they have the Wild ONE heading in the right direction.  Right off the bat, I realize this might be a somewhat controversial take. When Blake went hands-on with the Wild ONE earlier this year, one of his chief gripes was legibility. That concern is not likely to be abated with a dial that’s perhaps even more of an eye-chart, but in my opinion it “fits” the spirit of the watch a little better. While Norqain is ostensibly selling these as adventure watches for all manner of outdoor activities, to me they feel more in line with stylish, contemporary headturners like the Zenith Defy, or even watches in the Royal Oak Offshore line. Capable, yes, but designed to be gawked at more than anything.  The new Wild ONE Skeleton comes in two variants. One with a burgundy NORTEQ case with gold dial accents, and the other with a black NORTEQ case...

Using Your Time to Make a Difference: an Interview with Chris Baker Worn & Wound
Ming ownership Jul 19, 2023

Using Your Time to Make a Difference: an Interview with Chris Baker

Chris Baker is not the typical watch enthusiast we’re used to reading about. He’s not an actor, a titan of industry, or any sort of celebrity brand ambassador. He is, however, the type of person we need more of. Chris describes himself as a “homelessness and housing advocate and service provider.” In fact, he is the founder of The Other Ones Foundation (TOOF) in Austin, Texas, a nonprofit that offers humanitarian aid, case management and extremely low-barrier work opportunities to people experiencing homelessness.  You may know Chris from Netflix’s hit reality show, Queer Eye. He was the hero featured in season 6, episode 8. For those unfamiliar, Queer Eye is a feel-good show where five hosts come into the lives of extraordinary people who do and represent extraordinary things, but need a hand in claiming ownership of the incredible people that they are. This was my introduction to Chris. I connected with his story so much that I began following him on Instagram, and over the last couple of years he’s become a friendly online acquaintance. Eventually I found out that Chris is a watch enthusiast, so I reached out to him to have a conversation about his love of watches and where they fit into his life.  Chris comes off as a rocker who’s made his way around the block, cracking jokes, delivering a bit of snark in a gravel tone, evoking some 90s grunge vibes – I was waiting for him to croon “Black Hole Sun,” alas, it didn’t happen. Instead he explained t...

Nodus Auctions off their Limited Edition Collaboration with the Atlanta RedBar Chapter for a Great Cause Worn & Wound
Nodus Auctions off their Limited Jul 18, 2023

Nodus Auctions off their Limited Edition Collaboration with the Atlanta RedBar Chapter for a Great Cause

Nodus fans take note: a rare version of the Sector GMT is about to be sold at auction for a worthy cause, and you can bid on it until the auction closes tomorrow. This limited edition was created in partnership with RedBar’s Atlanta chapter, and features some distinctive details that make this version particularly rewarding for Atlanta residents, but it’s also just a nice looking execution of an already attractive watch, and we think it can be enjoyed just as easily north of the Mason-Dixon line. Or in Nodus’ hometown on the west coast. You get the idea.  The dial is black with red accents, a nod to the colors of the Atlanta Falcons football franchise, and features an image of the Atlanta skyline on the caseback, along with the RedBar logo and limited edition number. This particular watch carries the “00/50” designation, and is the last remaining of the limited run (all 50 watches in the limited edition were claimed by Atlanta RedBar members when the watch was unveiled in April). The Sector GMT is a classically proportioned sports watch (it measures 38mm in diameter) filtered through the Nodus contemporary design language and point of view. Like other watches in the Sector collection, the GMT makes use of a multi piece dial with distinct layers, creating a unique sense of depth and calling attention to the finishing and materials Nodus is using. This collection has grown and matured a great deal in just a few years, with a total of six models spanning every vari...

Formex Gets in on the Summer Watch Act with the New Essence Splash Collection Worn & Wound
Formex Gets Jul 18, 2023

Formex Gets in on the Summer Watch Act with the New Essence Splash Collection

Windup Watch Fair Chicago is officially in the rearview mirror, and as we come up for air from another successful event in the Windy City, it’s time to take stock of some of the new releases that saw their debut at the show. Windup is increasingly becoming a venue for brands to unveil new releases to a captive audience, and this year’s Chicago show saw a handful of both completely new and iterative drops that had watch enthusiasts buzzing all weekend. Formex is just one example, bringing a new collection of Essence references in 39mm and 43mm case sizes with bold colors that make an already fun sports watch just a little more vibrant.  The new Essence Splash Chronometer Limited Collection feature dials that are hand-sprayed with bright and bold colors in the brand’s Swiss dial manufacture. The colors range from pastel shades to bold neon, with the full lineup including Sunflower Yellow, Jungle Green, Sunset Orange, Baby Blue, and Lavender Purple. The distinctive feature of the Essence dial, the CNC machined horizontal lines that are run across it, remain in this collection. These dials have a matte finish, which makes the colors pop and appear more uniform, and stands in contrast to other Essence dials that are a bit more reflective.  The Splash collection appears across both the 39mm Essence in stainless steel as well as the 43mm Essence Leggera with a case made from carbon and ceramic components. Seeing them in person at Windup, the larger Essence Leggera dials r...

Archimede Does Classic German Design at a Fair Price with the new 1950-4 Worn & Wound
Ming nod Jul 17, 2023

Archimede Does Classic German Design at a Fair Price with the new 1950-4

The 1950’s were a unique time in terms of both manufacturing and design. Post-war Europe and the United States were, in many ways, still reeling from the previous decade’s global conflict while also enjoying the benefits of a revitalized economy. This, in turn, created a boon of creativity and a sort of mid-century design renaissance that is still admired today. One company that has looked back to the archival design language of the 1950’s is German brand Archimede. The 1950’s collection nods to the design language of this decade with a visually flat dial and an array of small design details which shows a knowledge and respect for this time period. Their latest in the collection, the 1950-4, continues this study in mid-century excellence with new dial executions in green and black, with a variety of strap pairing options to choose from. While the new watches have a subtle charm to them at first glance, it’s the small details that really shine. For starters, each of the references is a 40mm stainless steel ICKLER case with a classic Arabic numeral dial layout and a subsidiary seconds scale at the 6 o’clock mark. A railroad track pattern circumvents the dial, adding just enough detail to be visually appealing without detracting from the overall clean visuals. Most interesting, perhaps, are the lumed hands, numerals, and indices which were inspired by the use of radium in vintage watches, and light up in a charming nod to the past (but don’t worry – it’s not...

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2023

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

Picking out my favourite references for this year’s Only Watch auctions, I was pretty shocked to realise how much my tastes have changed over the last handful of years. Some of these brands I even used to hate, although I won’t be admitting which ones. Only Watch is the perfect chance for brands to change … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Citizen s “Unite Jul 14, 2023

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch

If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes Time+Tide
Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm Jul 14, 2023

The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes

The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm shrinks down the crowd-favourite dive watch. Despite its reduced size, it retains all necessary diving specifications. Three models are available in black, blue or grey with a gold PVD case. Given the sheer amount of dive watches which get released every day, it’s pretty common for them to include some … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Launched Jul 14, 2023

Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper

Launched in 1968 as a chronograph for sailors, the Skipper ref. 7754 has long been one of the more idiosyncratic models created by Heuer, novel and rare enough to be sought after by Heuer aficionados. Now the brand has revived the model in a gently modernised format with the TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper. Based on the Carrera “Glassbox” introduced in March, the new watch retains the regatta-inspired aesthetic of its predecessor but is very much its own watch. Initial thoughts  While not nearly as well as known as its auto racing-inspired stablemates like the Autavia and Monaco, the Skipper is very much in keeping with Heuer’s historical speciality of functional chronographs conceived for professional sportspeople. Despite being a fairly niche model, the vintage Skipper is memorable thanks to a distinctive aesthetic, which has been smartly transplanted into the new Skipper. The new Skipper has a vintage-inspired aesthetic but is a clearly a modern watch, demonstrating TAG Heuer’s ability to successfully reimagine its historical models. It retains the key design elements that made the original memorable, namely the coloured sub-dials and orange seconds hand. But the new model isn’t a remake, but is essentially a variant of the Carrera Glassbox. As a result, it shares the appeal of the Glassbox, including the case styling and in-house movement. But like the Glassbox, the Skipper feels a little thick at just under 14 mm high, a consequence of the movement inside. Notab...