Revolution
Introducing the TAG Heuer Carrera Green Special Edition
A new deep hue of green arrives in the ever-cool-looking and most classic of the Carrera chronographs.
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Revolution
A new deep hue of green arrives in the ever-cool-looking and most classic of the Carrera chronographs.
SJX Watches
Having introduced the oversized Big Bold in bright, funky iterations such as the Jelly Fish Neon, Swatch is now going minimalist – and green – with the Big Bold Bioceramic. Clad in solid, pastel colours, the Big Bold Bioceramic is clean and coherent. Though simple, it manages to be interesting in both style and materials. The open-worked dial reveals some of its mechanics, while the case is composite of ceramic and plastic made from plant matter. Initial thoughts For those who appreciate the bold presence of large watches like the Royal Oak Offshore, the Big Bold is a lot of fun at a far more accessible price. So when the Big Bold was launched a few years ago, I very much liked the idea of a 47 mm plastic watch. But I found the earlier iterations to be at either extreme – too funky or too plain. The latest version, however, lands in the sweet spot for me. Vibrant in colour – especially in “power pink” or sky blue – but pared back in design, the new Big Bold also has an open-worked movement that’s intriguing despite being quartz. And the new “bio-sourced” material also adds to the appeal, as does the fact that it only costs a bit over US$100. The Big Bold is ergonomic, despite the seemingly massive diameter. With almost non-existent lugs, its lug-to-lug span is a mere 44.8 mm, a length more commonly found on watches with a diameter of around 36 mm. Despite the wide case, it wears well on most wrists, without a significant overhang on either side of the w...
Time+Tide
I still remember the morning that the Zenith brand manager for Australia stepped into the T+T HQ, excited to show us what he’d brought with him on that summer day. The watch roll unfurled and we all saw it for the first time – the Zenith Chronomaster – a watch that we all knew would … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Rose Gold brings warmth to a winning design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introduced just earlier this year, the Chronomaster Sport is the first regular-production model equipped with the El Primero 3600, the latest iteration of Zenith’s storied chronograph movement. Having debuted the line with versions in steel, Zenith now unveils the rose gold Chronomaster Sport, adding a touch of luxe to the sports chronograph. Initial thoughts While not the most novel, the new Chronomaster Sport is a sensible addition to the line. Flagship sports chronographs – Daytona, Speedmaster, Big Bang et al – are offered in solid gold, so it makes sense that Zenith would take the same approach with the Chronomaster Sport. I’ve handled the watch in the metal, and it is eminently striking in gold and black. Admittedly, it does have a passing resemblance to the Daytona in the same livery, but I would say that the Chronomaster Sport more than holds its own, especially considering its movement. The dial is recognisably Zenith with its signature tri-colour registers, as well as the date at 4:30. More crucial is the inscription on the bezel that hints at the movement within. The calibre has a 1/10th second resolution for the chronograph, surpassing most chronographs in its price segment. Funnily enough, one of my favourite aspects of the watch is actually the gold flange with the minute track that circles the white dial – the colour pops and works wonderfully against the precious metal case. Priced at US$21,300, the rose gold Chronomaster Sport is substantially m...
SJX Watches
As the Geneva auctions are almost concluded – with the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 cloisonné world time having sold for US$7.83 million – it’s on to the Hong Kong sales that’ll take place in a few weeks. At Phillips’ Hong Kong auction, the top lot is, unsurprisingly, a complicated Patek Philippe. Specifically, a first-series ref. 2499 in yellow gold, which is not exceptionally uncommon in itself, but this example has a rare Wenger case and a valuable piece of paper – the original certificate from 1956. The sale also encompasses another ref. 2499 with its original certificate, a third series in yellow gold that’s more accessibly priced, along with an interesting selection of independent watchmaking. Notably, the line up includes a Harry Winston Opus 1 Tourbillon by F.P. Journe, along with an Opus V by Urwerk. The Phillips Hong Kong watch auction will happen on June 5 and 6, and the full catalogue is available online at Phillips.com. 2499 duo Most of the first-series ref. 2499s had cases made by Emile Vichet, a Geneva case maker that supplied the cases for the first two years of the model’s production, making about 10 cases in yellow gold and about four in pink. Patek Philippe then turned to Ed. Wenger, another Geneva case maker run by brothers Edouard and Andre, for the rest of the first-series, as well as all subsequent series until 1982 when Patek Philippe starting making its own cases. Only about 30 yellow gold cases were made by Wenger for the first-serie...
SJX Watches
Though taking the form of its signature aviation-instrument watch, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military is the latest in a lineage of dive watches that started in 1997. Pilot’s watches are its bread and butter, but Bell & Ross (B&R;) has been making high-spec dive watches almost since its founding in 1992. Five years later it launched the Hydromax, which was created in collaboration with Sinn. Featuring a case filled with incompressible synthetic oil, the Hydromax boasted a staggering water-resistance rating of 11,100 m. Two decades later, B&R; launched the BR 03-92 Diver, which transformed the aviation-instrument case into a diving tool with a 300 m depth rating. First unveiled in steel, and subsequently also in either bronze or ceramic, the newest iteration of the BR 03-92 Diver has a functional olive-green dial that evokes the military inspiration behind many of the brand’s watches. Initial thoughts On the surface, the BR 03-92 Diver Military is seemingly a mere facelift, a new dial for the BR 03-92 Diver Black of 2019. Only the olive-green dial is new – but it makes a difference. While green seems to be the colour du jour for 2021, the olive-drab dial colour underscores the B&R; spirit perfectly. The brand often looks to the military for inspiration – and has made watches for both police and military units in France – while being inclined towards a vintage style, particularly in its round watches. Best described as a retro-military colour that evokes unif...
Time+Tide
The line between watch journalist and collector sometimes blurs. My interview with Chris Alexander (@thedialartist), a creative designer with a growing sideline in watch modification, inspired me to take urgent action. Chris’ abstract art that transforms dials from G-Shocks to Speedmasters, seriously struck a chord, eventually leading to this hot drop today. While researching his … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: An exclusive space odyssey with the Dial Artist x Bamford Cosmic Rainbow. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Sit back and enjoy as Quill & Pad co-founder and editor-in-chief Elizabeth Doerr, freelance journalist Roberta Naas, and Barbara Hans, head of marketing at A. Lange & Söhne, talk with Dr. Carl Naughton about their experiences as women in the predominantly men’s world of mechanical watches.
Time+Tide
When it comes to watches, I am continuously torn between the two extremes of my personality. On one side there’s my inner OCD stress-head who agonises over every hairline scratch. But then there’s the side of me that yearns for a spot of adventure. Reconciling the two isn’t always easy. We all love to read … ContinuedThe post Would you rock a $100,000 rose-gold tourbillon for cave diving? Meet the man who does… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The most common choice for classic dress watches has to be gold, but have you ever wondered where that gold originally came from? And by "originally" Ian Skellern isn't referring to a gold mine on earth but the original source of the gold before it even arrived on our planet. Spoiler alert: it involves an explosion, a very big explosion!
Time+Tide
Imagine a watch that could give you sexual superpowers. Buckling it onto your wrist would invest you with such dangerous charm and animal magnetism that no mortal could possibly resist you. Admittedly, as watch complications go, this would be a damn sight more useful that any piddling moon-phase. But this far-fetched object might actually exist … ContinuedThe post Voodoo sex and a 1950s gold watch – the missing link between Marlon Brando and Zsa Zsa Gabor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you’ve ever come across the singer and songwriter James Blake, you’ll know he’s got one of the best voices in the business and goes about his work with the detached cool of a guy that knows it. His unique style of ambient electronic music has won him critical acclaim and a global fan set, … ContinuedThe post From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A bon vivant from an era where many watch retailers were personalities, Gino Cukrowicz passed away in Singapore on May 6, 2021, just shy of his 62nd birthday. Gino was proprietor of Ginotti, a watch store in Belgium that he cofounded with Thierry Maldague in 1987, but perhaps best known as one of the partners in F.P. Journe. He’s pictured above with his wife Radhi and Francois-Paul Journe. A notable individual in both style and substance, Gino was always dressed in colours and eye-catching shoes, along with a large diamond stud on each year. Though Gino only owned a single watch store, his had an influence in the business, much like his peer Laurent Picciotto of Paris, because of his experience and taste. As a measure of his stature, Gino’s funeral service in Singapore included tributes from Francois-Henry Bennahmias and Patrick Pruniaux, the chief executives of Audemars Piguet and Ulysse Nardin respectively, as well as Masaki Saito, the longtime head of sales at F.P. Journe, and Jean-Claude Biver. Gino with Thierry Maldague outside Ginotti (left), and pictured in the 1990s. Photo – Shawn Mehta I last spoke with Gino at length in 2018, when he was in Singapore along with Francois-Paul Journe. Having arrived early for the interview with Mr Journe, I spent the time having a fascinating conversation with Gino, who had on his wrist an F.P. Journe Ruthenium Tourbillon with a platinum bracelet. He was frank, his outsized passion for independent watchmakers obvious, and hi...
Quill & Pad
Before Joshua Munchow realized that he loved watches he was sure that he loved mechanical things and stood in awe of the many mechanisms and contraptions that he saw over his young life. Joshua eventually became aware of watches and the amazing marvels that they held within. To him, the Corum Golden Bridge stood out as an example of perfect horological exhibitionism. And the automatic version is even better to him!
Revolution
Wei sits down with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele with a couple of their latest novelties on hand, discussing Chopard’s 25th anniversary and their watches launched at Watches & Wonders 2021.
Revolution
The flying carrousel equipped Freak X receives a dose of artistry inspired by naval camouflage and Cubist art.
SJX Watches
Introduced last year as part of the 175th Anniversary trio, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” is the first straightforward split-seconds chronograph wristwatch unveiled by A. Lange & Söhne. Simpler, but not simple, the 1815 Rattrapante is appealing in the way that many Lange watches are – the quality of fit and finish is obvious – but it is also notable in both style and movement construction. Initial thoughts A small run of just 100 watches, the 1815 Rattrapante is mostly sold out. Nonetheless it’s a beautiful and unusual enough that it is worth a look. While the other two “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th Anniversary limited editions – the 1815 Thin and Tourbograph – are powered by movements found in other models, the 1815 Rattrapante is equipped with its own calibre, the L101.2. Granted, the L101.2 derived from the movement in the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar, but it is still substantially different. For one, it has more elegant proportions than the average complicated Lange, with a profile that’s relatively flat. The brand’s complex watches are often big – both wide and thick – so the 1815 Rattrapante stands out for being smaller in comparison. It is a still a largish 41.2 mm in diameter, but just 12.6 mm high. While clearly an 1815 in style, the Rattrapante diverges in its colours. Lange rolls out fewer colour iterations of its models than its peers, which makes this combination unorthodox. Bringing to mind the f...
Deployant
We go hands-on and take a deep dive into the new 2021 edition of the Little Lange 1 Moonphase with the magnificent goldstone faced dial.
Revolution
To mark Mr Porter’s first decade as the leading, global destination for men’s style, IWC has launched the “10 Years of MR PORTER” Limited Edition Pilot’s Chronograph.
Deployant
We take a look at one of the more refined diver's watches available in the market currently, in the form of the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date.
SJX Watches
Last year’s 60th anniversary was a major event for Grand Seiko, which unveiled several new movements and plenty of limited editions to mark the occasion. The most notable launch was probably the 9SA5 movement, a high-frequency and high-end automatic calibre. The movement made its debut in the luxe yellow-gold SLGH002, then in the steel Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 a few months later. Since then the movement has been installed in a similar, but even more pricey platinum edition, and finally the regular production “White Birch” SLGH005. The cal. 9SA5 All the models are essentially the same, save for different dial finishes and case materials. Here we take a close look at the SLGH003 in steel as a representative for the “SLGH” family. Like its siblings in the family, the SLGH003 is a brand-new reference. The case and dial designs evolved from the existing and familiar Grand Seiko style, but inside is a radically new movement – the cal. 9SA5 with a Dual Impulse escapement. The aesthetic changes have created more refined exterior that better showcase the brand’s case finishing, but more crucially, the improvements signify the brand’s moves upmarket – exemplified by the more elaborate movement and higher price tag. The SLGH003 Initial thoughts Unique among the Grand Seiko line up in terms of its movement and styling, the “SLGH” family boasts new features that are mostly for the better, such as the more elaborate case and sophisticated mov...
Time+Tide
Online shopping is an incredible thing. You can’t come into physical contact with every new watch release, so poring over press releases and store catalogues has become the only way we can analyse new watches. As a result, scrutinising images is now a hugely important part of our pre-purchase tool-set. Occasionally though, the quality of … ContinuedThe post 5 watch photos that leave us with a goofy grin and make us grateful we’ve got wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
OK, I admit that I can be self-contradictory. While proclaiming last week that I enjoy the thrill of breaking established dress codes with a banged-up diver’s watch under a formal shirt sleeve, what I’m secretly longing for is the chance to dress up properly, and that does include the watch. In Norway we’re still semi-locked … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A return to the dapper dress watch with Swiss-manufactured debut brand, Fifty Eight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow recently had the opportunity to spend some time with the new slate-grey Tutima Flieger Automatic, a simple three-handed pilot's watch with date that comes in at an incredibly affordable price. He shares his thoughts here.
Quill & Pad
Once upon a time in a small watch shop in a (relatively) small California town before GaryG really knew much at all about Vacheron Constantin as a brand and company. there was a display case. And a watch: the Vacheron Constantin Malte Squelette.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Whether it’s Bill Clinton’s Timex or Barack Obama’s Jorg Grey, the watch of the US President always gets scrutinised in detail. But as Shashi Baltutis reveals, there’s a forgotten brand that holds a strong claim to be the original presidential timepiece. It’s November 22 1963 and US President John F. Kennedy has just … ContinuedThe post Why the Vulcain Cricket is the real President’s watch and offers killer value for vintage hunters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Paris, Haute Couture and summer on the French Riviera – France has elegance ingrained into its very soul. Wrist-worn style is something we are used to seeing from both Cartier and Chanel, while Hermès has evolved into a serious horological prospect – take their sporty H8-series this year. But for the more budget-conscious, there is … ContinuedThe post The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is in every way a well-designed and reliable tool-watch. The novelty of the rarely used silver case will add to its collectibility - not referring to flipping potential, but a fun factor for any watch collector.
SJX Watches
Unveiled just recently at Watches & Wonders 2021, the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine is the newest – and best – iteration of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Historiques wristwatch. Modelled on a 1920s wristwatch with a dial rotated 45 degrees off the vertical, the American 1921 has long been available as a standard-production model in pink and yellow gold, as well as platinum. The new American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a limited edition of 100 pieces with the same idiosyncratic design, but with the enhancements typical of the CEP editions. That means a solid platinum dial along with platinum threads for the strap. Crucially, the 1921 CEP has applied numerals, a bonus found on none of the other versions of the 1921, which makes a good design even better. Initial thoughts Having been launched just over a decade ago, the American 1921 is a familiar watch. I’ve examined the different versions at length, and also wore one for a short period for a review. The 1921 gets most things right – design, details, and size – and looks good on the wrist. The 1921 CEP is unquestionably the best looking iteration of the model to date. Even though the aesthetic changes are modest – primarily the addition of applied hour numerals – the 1921 CEP looks strikingly different. The dial has less contrast but more depth, which results in a more refined appearance. It is, however, pricey. Already the standard version of the 1921 in platinum i...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Last year, Bruno Molino was sitting in his Melbourne home when his Apple Watch started frantically beeping. Here, the 55-year-old describes exactly what happened next… “It was a Sunday evening and I was just sitting on the couch after dinner. Suddenly, I started to feel a little bit heated and I said to … ContinuedThe post “This is how my Apple Watch saved my life” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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