Revolution
Povey’s Picks: Sotheby’s Important Watches Hong Kong 11 July 2020
Ross Povey gets his picks on from the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Important Watches sale catalog set for 11 July 2020
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Revolution
Ross Povey gets his picks on from the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Important Watches sale catalog set for 11 July 2020
Quill & Pad
Stefan Kudoke’s time has arrived. All the long years of learning, obsessing, wondering, and hard work are now paying off for the German watchmaker and engraver, whose gorgeous Kudoke 2 won the Petite Aiguille award at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). And Elizabeth Doerr finds the brand-new Kudoke 2 Nocturne just as enchanting; she explains why here.
Time+Tide
Longines has had quite the 2020. First came the excellent Khaki Green addition to the HydroConquest collection, and then we scored an entirely new and very exciting collection in the Longines Spirit. And now, to round out something new and something updated, comes something from the past – but, we think you’ll agree, very much … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jay Gatsby of the class of 2020 is in the (Art Deco) house, meet the Longines Heritage Classic ‘Tuxedo’ and ‘Tuxedo Chronograph’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
When it was launched in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet became the most-talked-about new releases of the year, and also of the most panned, largely for the way it was hyped before launch and the perceived plainness of the design. But Audemars Piguet is undeterred and affirmed its commitment to the new collection with the launch of a face-lifted Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph, featuring new dials with a smoked, graduated-colour finish, along with a variant in a two-colour gold case. The new Code 11.59 Selfwinding Initial thoughts The most frequent criticism against the Code 11.59 had to do with the rather bland dials of the base models. In contrast, the pricey, complicated models were the standouts of the collection, having fired enamel dials with a smoked finish (for the minute repeater and the flying tourbillon) or aventurine glass (for the perpetual calendar). Audemars Piguet doubtlessly realised the appeal of the smoked enamel dial, and followed up with the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition, which featured the same graduated, dark blue dial in enamel, but on a time-only watch. The downside of the enamel dial on the base model is a massive price premium of over 55%, or a bit over US$14,000. Evidence that Audemars Piguet is receptive to feedback, the new dials for the Code 11.59 show how a slight tweak can completely change the visual impact of a watch. It’s highly probable that if the Code 11.59 had been launched with smoked dials in the first plac...
SJX Watches
Based on the souscription calibre created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the Tradition is characterised by an open, symmetrical movement layout and an off-centered time display. The distinctive look has made it one of Breguet’s modern-day hits, though most variants of the Tradition have been watches for men. The latest Tradition Dame 7038 adds to the compact line-up of Tradition watches for ladies. Exclusive to boutiques, the Tradition Dame 7038 combines a dark, iridescent Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial with a deep-brown movement treatment. And unusually for Breguet, the watch is delivered with a matching clutch bag. Initial thoughts The off-centered, Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial was the first thing that caught my attention when this arrived in my inbox. With enigmatic colours that shimmer and vary between violet and green, Tahitian mother-of-pearl never fails to be captivating. Obtained from black-lipped oysters around Tahiti and French Polynesia, they are much rarer compared to white mother-of-pearls as was featured in the first Tradition Dame 7038, making this more appealing, not just for its colour but also the material. The brown undertones of the Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial are complemented by the brown treatment of the frosted finish on the movement and the rose gold case. In typical Breguet style, the mother-of-pear dial is finished in clous de paris engine-turning, a decorative touch that is tradition and always welcome as it adds visual interest to the ...
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Time+Tide
This year appears to be Year of the Luminor for Panerai. Having redefined the warranty with the lavishly lumed and 3D printed PAM01117, the introduction of the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313 sees a bit more restraint return, with classic Luminor design cues but a similarly luscious blue sunburst dial. With its technologically impressive three-day movement, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313, where a dressy blue dial meets a proper diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The 30-year wait is over. Liverpool are Premier League champions, having clinched the title with a record seven games of the season to spare. Frankly, it turned into an annihilation. Jürgen Klopp’s team won 26 of 27 league games from August to February 28 and haven’t lost at home in the league for three whole … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille – the Liverpool players’ watches are as spectacular as their football appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko’s growing reputation over the last few years has been because of three main factors - outstanding quality, mind-boggling value for money, and the most refreshingly expressive dials. As such, it’s not often one of these uniquely dialled watches flies under the radar upon release, but that’s exactly what the SBGH279 aims to do. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGH279 with brushed granite-grey dial is a total smokeshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Grand Seiko released a collection of blue dial models for its 60th Anniversary. It comprises a 44GS hi-beat automatic, ladies watches and 2 Quartz models. Grand Seiko SBGP015 60th Anniversary Quartz Case and Dial The stainless steel Grand Seiko SBGP015 measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness. An attractive deep blue ceramicRead More
HODINKEE editors on which watch from this year's intros is the one they'd like to look at every day.
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SJX Watches
Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie made a name for itself with its beautifully crafted watches that capture the grace of 1940s timepieces. But all of its work so far has centred on time-only watches, all powered by heavily decorated vintage Omega movements. But now the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph takes things to a whole new level. Retaining the elegant feel of the brand’s earlier creations, the AdC #8 is powered by a reworked movement that started out as a Venus 185 but completely reworked by Atelier de Chronométrie, with a substantial number of parts made from scratch. Commissioned by an American collector, the AdC #8 is largely hand made, with everything hand finished to a superlative, artisanal standard, which is why it took took two years to complete. Initial thoughts I first found out about this watch late last year, and it sounded promising given Atelier de Chronométrie’s track record in design and movement finishing. Though I am going by photos, the finished product definitely lives up to expectations, and then some. Everything about it is just done extremely well, and while it costs a lot of money, the AdC #8 is compellingly and reasonably priced as such things go. Having closely examined Atelier de Chronométrie’s earlier watches, the AdC #8 will undoubtedly have the same feel – visually similar to a vintage watch but much more solid in the hand thanks to a more robust, modern case. A little under 40 mm in diameter, the AdC #8 has the proporti...
WatchAdvice
Introduction Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection has always piqued my interest, and when a 42mm variant was released back in 2016 – I paid attention. Primarily because I saw the size as more accessible, and the design more refined and in proportion. In fact, back then I wrote about this exact model — The Hublot Spirit Big Bang Moonphase Titanium — for another publication. Surprisingly though – it took a good four years before I actually went hands-on for proper inspection. After a couple of weeks on loan, I’m happy to report back on what it’s like to wear the Spirit of Big Bang around town. First Impressions As far as first impressions go, the Spirit of Big Bang is bold, brawny and makes quite the splash. Although fairly monochromatic in design, the SOBB feels significant, carrying an aura of cool on wrist. The size isn’t outrageous, it’s comfortable to wear, and from a distance, the Skeleton dial seamlessly blends into the titanium case. Although watch enthusiasts will instantly recognise the tonneau case shape, the Spirit of Big Bang maintained an ‘under-the-radar’ feel to it – which I found appealing. On The Wrist On the wrist, the Hublot SOBB sits snugly thanks to the curve on the underside of the tonneau case, which balances its height. Coming in at a reasonable 42mm, the case has a balanced blend of polish and satin finishing. Initially, I found the height took some getting used to, being a little thicker than my usual. The Spirit Of Bi...
SJX Watches
Longines is continuing its streak of affordable and handsome remakes of vintage watches, with the last big hit being the Heritage Classic “sector” dial, with the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”. Modelled on a 1940s chronograph powered by the cal. 13ZN, regarded by collectors as the brand’s best chronograph movement, the remake gets its nickname from the stylish black-and-white dial. Initial thoughts There’s almost nothing to criticise in the new chronograph. Aesthetically, it is spot on. The design is faithful to the original, smartly doing away with the much-derided extras of the date and “automatic” often found in remakes. It’s a moderate size, albeit a bit thick. The movement is modular, rather integrated. But it only costs US$3,000, which is excellent value for money. More generally speaking – and this is criticism – Longines has rolled out several well-executed remakes in recent years, notching hit after hit. Paradoxically the success has made the Heritage remakes a little less appealing, just because there are so many of them – and most of them are pretty good. When the original Legend Diver was introduced in 2007, it was special, because the only affordable, good-looking remake. That said, it doesn’t take away anything from the watch itself; the new chronograph really is a compelling buy. Two-tone and tachymetre The Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” manages to capture most of the elements of the original. The dial is in silver...
Time+Tide
Looking at these two Grand Seiko GMTs, it’s easy to see how the world has changed from the time when the complication was invented. What began as an essential tool for pilots crossing the skies with a priority on legibility and simplicity has evolved into a different artform altogether. This centres around the creative, and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ237 and SBGJ239, two terrific GMTs with lovely lume appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We want to start this post with a shoutout to some YouTube commenters by the name of Nicolas, Hani and Lee. This trio recently commented on the Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green video and each echoed the same sentiments, which to paraphrase, are: “We are in doubt between this Longines and an Oris Aquis.” … ContinuedThe post Apples to Apples: Longines HydroConquest Vs. Oris Aquis, specs, pricing and value propositions compared appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
2020 has been a year for a lot of things: a global pandemic, a quarter of a year spent indoors, no Baselworld, no Olympics, and iconic watchmakers like Patek Philippe and Rolex seemingly putting the kibosh on any new novelties. Except, while the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation has so far stuck to their guns, a short … ContinuedThe post The 4 details that make the the all-new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 Limited Edition so compelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
First revealed a year ago as a prototype with a dial that was a work in progress, the Petermann Bédat 1967 wristwatch with an unusual deadbeat seconds mechanism has just been launched in its final form. Mechanically identical to the prototype – it’s equipped a secondary escapement for the jumping seconds – the refined 1967 now has a partially-open dial that shows off the finely-finished keyless works. Initial thoughts The prototype 1967 deadbeat seconds was let down by an uninspiring faux-classical dial, which was a shame, because the movement was executed to an impressively high level. Fortunately, Messrs Petermann and Bedat embarked on a total redesign of the dial. Independent watchmakers don’t often make drastic changes to designs in response to criticism, but the two did so, and the result is a success. The new 1967 is a handsome watch that manages to look modern while evoking classical dial design. In fact, the new dial is essentially a “sector” dial with a sapphire chapter ring, a novel combination that has not been done before. And it is matched with Petermann Bédat’s take on classical lance-shaped hands, which complete the contemporary feel. The new 1967 in rose gold. Photo – Petermann Bédat Dial aside, the rest of the watch is largely identical to the prototype. The movement was already excellent and will be almost unchanged in the production versions, although Mr Petermann says that the engraved lettering on the three-quarter plate will be im...
Time+Tide
It was recently decided in a 15-second phone call between myself and DOXA CEO Jan Edocs that Time+Tide and DOXA would jointly contribute a SUB 300 Carbon Aqualung US Divers Edition to the Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 solidarity auction. The auction has raised a staggering $193,559USD so far, with four days left to bid. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Time+Tide and DOXA contribute a sexy carbon SUB 300 Aqualung US Divers Limited Edition to Revolution x The Rake’s Covid-19 Solidarity Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz produces some of the most refined artistically-inclined timepieces, typically using a variety of artisanal decorative techniques to express its peculiar aesthetic sensibility inspired by the splendours of nature. Encapsulating the brand’s approach is the new Petite Heure Minute “Tiger” featuring black and ivory grand feu enamel dials that adeptly captures the majestic essence of the tiger with a lifelike miniature painting. Initial thoughts Tiger motifs are not new for Jaquet Droz timepieces; the big cat was found on several other versions of the Petite Heure Minute. But the latest version is easily the most enchanting. While the earlier tiger-motif watches were decorated in the style of a Chinese painting, the new watch depicts the tiger’s gaze up close. The dial immediately arrests with the lifelike details of the tiger’s eyes that fill the lower half of the dial. Every strand of the tiger’s fur can be discerned, with the highlight undoubtedly the eyes, which reflects the brooding, mysterious and ferocious personality of the feline. For this reason, I find the white gold version significantly more interesting than its red gold counterpart as the painting is more outstanding; the white brush strokes are enhanced and sharper thanks to the contrast against the glossy black enamel. The painting is also more appealing as the blue-eyed white tiger is more exotic. Although the painting on the red gold version represents the prototypical, orange-and-b...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This week we're returning to our most beloved segment here at TBWS. That's right - it's the one that started it all: Affordable Vintage Watches. This episode we're breaking down our picks for Affordable Vintage Pilot Watches.
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Time+Tide
For many in the watchmaking world, the word homage is as dirty as the word quartz. Despite this, I would hazard a guess that most who feel a strong negative association with those words wouldn’t have particularly clear or compelling arguments as to why, simply that they once read it was bad and now it is. … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Meet Mk II Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Made exclusively for the American market, the Grand Seiko Soko US Special Editions, like many Grand Seiko watches, are a nod to a Japanese theme or motif. Made up of a pair of Spring Drive watches – the SBGA427 and SBGA429 – with bamboo-green accents, the special edition is named after Soko (霜降), one of the 24 periods of the traditional seasonal calendar. In the Japanese seasonal calendar, the year is divided into 24 periods known as Sekki (節季), each lasting about two weeks. Like any calendars in use before the modern age, the seasonal calendar was based on the solar year, and used by farmers for agriculture. Soko translates as “frost descending”, and marks the end of autumn. Specifically, the two watches take inspiration from Kyoto’s tranquil Arashiyama Bamboo Forest at autumn’s end, translating the scenery into elements of the dial. The Soko SBGA429 Initial thoughts I always love how Grand Seiko encapsulates Japanese concepts or culture in their watches – reflecting a strong national pride – which gives its timepieces an intrinsically distinct style compared to watches from other parts of the world. This is being done more often now that Grand Seiko is being sold widely outside of Japan, especially in the United States. With Grand Seiko gaining traction in America, the brand has produced several special editions available only in the country, such as the Kirazuri and the Japan Seasons special editions – effectively distilling the essence of J...
Hodinkee
A sporty chronograph for Longines' new line of chronometer pilot's watches.
Time+Tide
The IWC Big Pilot collection is a pillar of the brand for a reason. The design is iconic and has remained unchanged for the best part of a century, the wrist presence is almost unparalleled, and the double-barrelled power reserve means you can take it off for a week without needing to reset the time. … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever IWC Big Pilot references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
When Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 last year, the best looking of the collection were the two watches with smoked enamel dials, which were the minute repeater and flying tourbillon. The base models, on the other hand, were plain and looked a bit flat. But as proof that dial colours and shading are as important as design, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition is the three-hand base model, but with a smoked blue enamel dial – and it is a good looking watch, with the downside of a substantial price premium for the enamel dial. Launched in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s sponsorship of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, the parent organisation of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi edition was a limited edition of 99 pieces. And it’s the only base-model Code 11.59 with an enamel (or smoked-finish) dial to date, though that might change in the future. Initial thoughts The Bolshoi edition is surprisingly attractive, even though only a single element has changed. Though it keeps the design exactly the same, the Bolshoi edition fixes the bland looks of the original simply but effectively with a fired enamel dial. While the smoked finish is not new – H. Moser & Cie. does it all the time and now MB&F; does too – the dial of the Bolshoi edition is fired enamel, which is doubtlessly difficult to produce and tangibly impressive. Because everything else remains the same as the standard edition, the Bolshoi edition also...
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