3,357 articles · 81 videos found · page 102 of 115
Quill & Pad
When Martin Green first got into watches in the late 1990s, Breguet was one of the brands that captivated him right from the beginning. And one Breguet stood out to Martin more than others: the Hora Mundi. Now he thinks that the new Hora Mundi 5557 is even better and with a complicated dial that is simply sensational.
Worn & Wound
After spending some time with Alex Bescoby, it doesn’t take long to be completely disarmed by his charm and charisma. A conversation with Alex seems less akin to getting to know a stranger, and more like catching up with a long-time friend. And if one thing can describe just how much of a jovial person Alex is, then let this tiny anecdote he shared about how he got his watch stolen in Argentina while filming a documentary paint a picture for you – “It was the nicest robbery I’ve ever been a part of.” Alex Bescoby, Author and Filmmaker of The Last Overland In a crowded bar, he blends right in, participating in each new interaction with the same warm enthusiasm. Standing next to him however, you would never guess that the guy is an established documentary filmmaker, premiering successful works such as In Forgotten Allies which explores the bygone history of WWII in south-east Asia, as well as a documentary entitled We Were Kings, which tells the true story of Burma’s lost royal family, and won Alex the inaugural award for the first-ever Whicker’s World Foundation Funding Award. Enamored by world history, Alex has traveled to the far corners of the globe in search of interesting stories to tell, but more importantly, to shed light on a locale’s culture and current events. More recently, Alex completed one of the most epic road trips ever to be documented by summiting what those in the overlanding community call, the Mount Everest of motoring. CCC Manhattan In ...
Quill & Pad
Over the years, Ken Gargett has been fortunate to have tried almost all of the Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnays, usually on several occasions. And he has found that he wine has never been anything less than enthralling at whatever stage he has encountered them.
![[VIDEO] Review: The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/04/PANERIA_RADIOMIR_QUARANTA_20.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Are there any watches or watch brands that you just have an odd relationship with? Not in a literal sense, but rather in the sense of vacillating appreciation. Once you loved them, then you didn’t, then, on a cold rainy night, you met again by chance and it was happily ever after? Ok, that’s overly dramatic, but the reason for this odd intro is that the brand featured in this review is one that I have had mixed emotions about over the years, making this very post the first time I’ve ever actually reviewed, neigh, worn one, despite the prominence and popularity of the brand. As you already know, the watch is a Panerai Radiomir Quaranta, and this review was a long time coming. You see, before the days of Worn & Wound, when my knowledge of watches was only that of the proverbial tip of the iceberg, Panerai was a brand I quite admired. I recall, distinctly, walking past a Panerai boutique on the East Side of Manhattan and seeing the Black Seal model in the window. It was stunning. I stared at it like in some scene from a bad Hallmark movie of a sad child looking at a puppy dog. But hardly being in the market for a luxury watch at the time, I eventually just kept walking. Years later, after launching Worn & Wound, my knowledge and exposure grew. 2011 was a different time for watches. Microbrands weren’t quite a thing. Tudor wasn’t for sale in the US. Vintage watches were still a niche, and dealers were few and far between. The “internet” was sort of mistrusted by ...
Worn & Wound
I am not a chronograph guy. At least that’s what I keep telling myself. I’ve owned my share of chronographs over the years, but they always seem to be first on the chopping block when something new comes along that I need to clear out space for. They also, in general, don’t appeal to me aesthetically. I tend to like a less cluttered, more serene dial than what you’ll find on a typical chronograph, simply because of the nature of the complication itself. And I certainly don’t belong in the nerdiest segment of chronograph lovers, who have deeply held beliefs about the best chronograph movements ever made, and can rattle off the most minute differences between Speedmaster references at the drop of a hat. I admire the dedication and knowledge of these hardcore chronograph superfans, but I’ve never counted myself among them. And yet, day to day, the watch I’ve worn the most by far over the last year is a chronograph that flies in the face of everything I tend to think about my own watch preferences. And if you were to ask me, “Hey Zach, out of all of your watches, which one has your favorite dial?” I’d have to respond with another chronograph, that has one of the most intricate and beautifully made dials I’ve had the pleasure of owning. So what’s going on here? How did such a non-chrono guy wind up with this weird chrono subcollection? My IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceratanium has effectively become my daily wearer since picking it up last sum...
Worn & Wound
What’s your pop culture blindspot? Everyone has at least one. I know people who have devoured every important prestige TV hit over the last two decades except The Sopranos, for example. And then you’ve got music obsessives who have an encyclopedic knowledge of the most obscure indie rock from a specific period of time (usually whenever they went to college) but might have ignored an entire genre for years. These blindspots are nothing to be ashamed of. No one can possibly be exposed to everything, and there are so many variables involved when it comes to access – it’s easy for something to slip right by you if you don’t have a subscription to a particular cable channel, use the right music streaming service, or are on the cusp of aging out of the target market for something. I have two pop culture blindspots I’m prepared to volunteer today. One is anything related to Harry Potter. I’ve never read the books, and I have only the foggiest memories of seeing what I think is one of the first two or three of the movies. The second is anything related to Pokémon. It feels good to get that off my chest. I honestly don’t even know what Pokémon is, really. It’s an animated series, right? But also a card game? I do know that certain Pokémon cards sell for amounts that could finance dream watches for many of us. I’m also vaguely aware of Pokémon video games, but I’ve never played one. The truth is, I don’t know a Charmander from a Chimchar (I looked both ...
Time+Tide
It’s easy to read about a watch brand having an incredible turnaround and soar in popularity, and you may even notice the rise in social media posts or news articles written about a new phenomenon. But, if you really want to capture the excitement behind something amazing, then you need to be able to see … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier are maintaining their killer momentum in style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you’re a horological junkie, there are better ways to rouse yourself from Dreamland than your iPhone. For the totally hardcore watch aficionado, you could always hunt down a classic Swiss travel clock, such as a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox travel alarm, but if you’re looking for something minus the mechanical ticking that might keep you awake … ContinuedThe post The best part of waking up: 5 awesome alarm clocks for watch collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I don’t like selling watches. I don’t think I’m alone here among watch collectors and enthusiasts, but when the time comes to let a watch go, it gets my anxiety up. There’s just nothing about the process I enjoy. Being lowballed or tire-kicked on the forums? No thanks. Worrying if a stranger is going to claim you sent them an empty box? Hard pass. And then there’s the existential dread, wondering if you’re doing the right thing, conflating a watch sale with a Sophie’s Choice type of scenario that has real meaning, when in fact, it’s actually just a watch. Nine times out of ten, selling a watch is a process that I one hundred percent do not recommend. But at the same time, we all have to recognize that it’s an essential part of the hobby for just about everyone. I recently had an experience selling a watch, though, that made me rethink how I approach the “dread” aspect of this whole deal, as described above. I’m still not sure about dealing with strangers on the forums, but my outlook has shifted a little bit. As it so often happens, I found myself looking to replenish the Watch Fund with my eyes on a future purchase. My particular problem here was that I didn’t have a clear idea of what I wanted to sell. I just knew that I needed to raise some cash. I found myself browsing through the r/watchexchange “Want to Buy” listings, just to see if, by sheer dumb luck, someone might be after something I’ve got. I actually don’t own a lot of watc...
Worn & Wound
And now, readers, we’ve come to that portion of our Watches & Wonders coverage that I know at least two of you have been anxiously anticipating, Yes, it’s now an annual tradition I guess, where I will wax rhapsodically about a mind bending Hublot novelty fit for a modern version of an 18th century French king. I can’t really think of a better way to describe the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire than to contextualize it with something commonly understood to be shorthand for over-the-top indulgence, but that’s what this watch is all about, in the best possible way. It’s a huge swing, which is exactly what I like to see from brands at Watches & Wonders. If I’m going to fly across an ocean and deal with travel delays at every step, I’d like to see things that I can only see in a presentation in the back of one of those enormous booths. Last year I wrote about the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire and characterized it as one of the best watches of last year’s Watches & Wonders because it succeeded at being compelling from a watchmaking perspective while also being completely outlandish in a way that Hublot is uniquely great at. It marked a point in my own appreciation for the brand where they rose above the level of a mere curiosity and reached a point where, in my opinion, they are deserving of the respect given to any other serious innovator in contemporary watchmaking. This year they’re back with a sequel of sorts to last ye...
Time+Tide
Dive watches are more popular than ever, especially compressor divers. These ubiquitous watches herald from a time when horological engineering was at its peak, and when man’s explorative mind had no limits. Compressor divers were built to withstand submersion whilst remaining relatively thin and were therefore comfortable to wear. This was made possible by the … ContinuedThe post Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Champagne is a lot more robust than people think. While reds and even whites get a fairly rough hand on occasion, there is a feeling that champagne must always be handled with the proverbial kid gloves. When discussing or presenting champagne, Ken Gargett is often asked how long it can be kept. And the answer is far longer than we sometimes suspect. Here he explains why. Cheers!
Worn & Wound
It has been awhile since we’ve checked in on Depancel, an up and coming watch brand based out of the sleepy alpine town, Annecy, France. It was their Serie-A Allure that last caught our attention last year – a dual-register automatic chronograph heavy on the automotive design cues, which for the spry brand, was their first-ever production chronograph. Since then, it seems they’ve come a long way in a relatively short time. Depancel has expanded their collection, defined their design language (primarily auto-inspired), and now they even have a showroom (in Annecy) for those keen on seeing their collection in the metal. Despite the evolution, that doesn’t mean the brand has lost touch with the watch enthusiast community or their passion for all things automotive. Their new Legend 60s chronograph encompasses everything that has made the brand successful thus far. The brand has heard a growing number of requests from Depancel collectors and enthusiasts alike to return to their racing chronograph roots. Even though they’ve done away with their online questionnaire that allows for the community to directly make suggestions as to what they’d love to see from the brand, the Legend 60s chronograph proves that they firmly still have their ear to the ground. And what better way to return to their “racing chronograph roots” than to develop a watch inspired by the Formula One racing scene in the 1960s. The Legend 60s marks another first for the Depancel, and that com...
Time+Tide
I do not know about you guys, but I watch a fair bit of television and with so many shows and streaming platforms there is more content than ever before. But, whilst juggling all the different plot lines and narratives, nothing ticks me off more, at least in regard to TV, then when a series … ContinuedThe post Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
This is one for the “better late than never” file. Last week, Kurono Tokyo launched their latest collection of watches, a series of four sector dials that quickly sold out after being made available on Friday morning. These watches, sized at just 34mm, are part of the “Special Projects” series that Kurono has undertaken, which seem to be personal labors of love from watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. On the webpage where these watches were announced, he writes about his own preference for 34mm watches, and not being sure of their mass appeal. When Kurono last experimented with a 34mm case size, the watches quickly sold out at a pop-up event, and that inspired Asaoka to make another run, in a new batch of colors. The near immediate sell out of this new collection would indicate to most observers that he’s onto something. I’m a big fan of Kurono and enjoy that they produce watches in a more traditional size. It just seems to suit Asaoka’s design sensibilities – it’s tough to imagine the Toki, for example, being nearly as appealing in a 40mm case. That said, 34mm is a little small for me, but I have a big wrist, and the 37mm cases that Kurono favors are at the low end of my sweet spot. That means that a lot of people with “average” sized wrists will probably find 34mm to be a nice fit if they’re going for a more classic and subtle look. Kurono cases are always designed in such a way as to maximize comfort and wearability, which I think can largely neutralize ...
Worn & Wound
The Lamborghini Miura is something a legend, and not just of its era. It is arguably among the most beautiful sports cars ever produced, and set the template for the rear mid-engined two seat supercar. Fewer than 1,000 Miura’s were produced between 1966 and 1973, and tend to fetch 7 figure sums when they appear at auction. While the car is firmly out of reach for many of us, Atelier Jalaper has found a way to incorporate a small piece of that car into the dial of a watch called the AJ-P400. Like the car, the watch will be quite limited in production, naturally, as parts of the car aren’t exactly easy to come by. The watch takes other design cues from the Miura, and brings it all together in a mostly respectful manner. The AJ-P400 is offered 4 colorways, each a take on the colors seen on the original Miura, including light blue, green, and orange joining a full black dial. The inspiration appears to be Azzuro Mexico for the blue, Verde Rio Metalizzato for the green, and of course, Arancio for the orange, though none look to be dead ringers for the distinctive paint codes. The color is used sparingly, only found in the chapter ring rehaut at the dial’s perimeter. Given the colors, it’s plenty to make a statement, however. The star of the show is the central dial piece, which is a piece of an actual Lamborghini Miura, according to the brand. According to Atelier Jalaper, it took them over a year before finding what they were looking for in France, and what they foun...
Worn & Wound
When we last checked in on Garrick, the small British indie had just unveiled the S5 series of watches, their most high-end and luxurious creations to date. Coming in at nearly $20,000, many longtime admirers of the brand might have felt some sticker shock (although not too many – the initial run was pre-sold to existing clients before the embargo lifted). It will be a relief, then, to note that Garrick’s latest watch, the S6, is back to four digit territory, and a deliberate evolution of the S4, the brand’s entry-level line. There are some minor aesthetic tweaks to the S6 that give it a noticeably different character than other Garrick creations, but they allow the artisans who work on these watches to really flex their muscles when it comes to dial work. And of course they are still completely customizable, so the end result, almost by definition, is precisely what you were looking for. The key differentiating factor between the S4 and S6 is the dial layout, specifically the lack of large numerals at the perimeter that remain a defining feature of the S4. Garrick’s goal with the S6 was to achieve an aesthetic that’s more contemporary (the S4’s design language, like all of Garrick’s creations to a certain degree, is rooted in classic English pocket watch design). On the S6, time is read via a thin chapter ring at the outer edge of the dial, with small markers for the minutes and hours that have been hand filled with ink. Removing the numerals gives the dia...
Time+Tide
It’s funny to think that there was a point in time where a turning bezel was a major selling point, but by 1960 a dive watch with a rotating bezel hadn’t even existed for more than seven years. Embracing some of the quirkier elements of midcentury design and marrying them with modern style, the Certina … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Certina DS-2 Turning Bezel is a cushion-cased diver with a touch of retro flair appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
There are several watches that most watch enthusiasts should own in their collection at one time. The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver is one of those watches. If it’s good enough for James Bond, then it’s good enough for me! This isn’t the first time that I’ve owned a Seamaster. I had a 2005 quartz version almost 20 years ago. At that point I’d only owned a Tissot PRS 200 as a “good” Swiss watch. As a fan of James Bond, (and what young male isn’t?), I always wanted his watch. I mean how cool was the wave dial, the deep blue bezel and at the time, that unmistakable bracelet. It looked great in the office and on weekends at the beach. I loved it. Financial issues meant I had to sell it about 7 months after buying it, and that hurt. About 15 years and many watches later, I decided it was time to purchase another, this time the latest iteration of the SMP 300. I chose the black polished ceramic dial with the laser etched waves, date at 6 O’clock, glossy, almost silky polished ceramic bezel with white inset dive indicators. And this time, on the steel and opting to add the rubber strap too. Very versatile and with the steel bracelet and rubber strap, two very different looks for different occasions. Just a casual low light shot In 2018, Omega launched their updated version of the classic Bond watch. This time in a 42 mm case, making it a little bigger and bolder, and after a slight hiatus, bringing back the wave pattern on the dial. The new wave pattern is ...
Worn & Wound
Given the endless amount of watches Seiko offers throughout their various collections and sub-collections, there’s a sure-fire chance that there’s a Seiko for you. But on the rare occasion there isn’t a Seiko that checks all the boxes, then all I can say is, just give it some time, because Seiko has a knack for giving us what we want if we’re patient enough. Whether it’s a different dial color for a particular reference, a change in date window placement (or window shape), or an affordable (Dive) GMT, Seiko has pretty much answered the bell, making the exact watch we’ve described thoroughly in the Instagram comments of a watch that jussssst missed the mark. The newly announced Seiko 5 Sports Mid-Field Collection follows this exact theme. The current line of field watches within the Seiko 5 Sports catalog include a wide variety of dial colors and variations. However as currently presented, every model within that range comes with a stainless steel case that hovers a touch north of 39mm in width. That’s not a slight to this particular model by any means. It’s a simple, straightforward field watch that has a retail sticker that no one can really argue with. I currently own our Worn & Wound 10th year anniversary limited edition with Seiko that uses this exact case and dial platform. My only nit that I have to pick with the watch is that I wish it came in a more compact package. And then yet again, Seiko answered the call, as if they had been reading my mind thi...
Worn & Wound
If you’re a watch fan of a certain age, chances are you’re going through something (or about to go through something) that will do nothing less than force you to face your own mortality. It’s been happening for years, in fact, and it has nothing (directly) to do with watches. As my fellow elder millennials know, all the stuff you liked in the 1990s is turning 30. Yes, the unavoidable march of time comes for everyone, but there’s something, I don’t know, kind of insane and troubling about the pieces of popular culture that helped shape your worldview and taste as an adolescent entering their fourth decade of existence. Sometimes, lucky for us, those anniversaries are marked with watches, and the folks at G-SHOCK are celebrating the 30th year of a truly important hip hop group with their latest release. That’s right, it’s a Wu-Tang Clan limited edition. Feeling old yet? It’s hard to overstate the influence and importance of Wu-Tang, not just on hip-hop but on pop music in general. In addition to releasing albums as a collective that are considered by many to be among the best rap albums ever made, individual members have gone on to have solo successes of their own, discover and produce a new generation of talent, and cross over into other musical disciplines (RZA scored both Kill Bill films, for example). The larger musical sphere of Wu-Tang inspired and bred talent is so significant that artists falling into this category are known as the Wu-Tang Killa Bee...
SJX Watches
In the quest for precision chronometry in a mechanical watch, perhaps no other component is as crucial as the escapement – often consisting of an escape wheel and lever that engage with the oscillating organ. The history of watchmaking recounts many an attempt at inventing a better-performing escapement, with some attempts naturally more successful than others. By the 20th century, the watch industry had settled upon the Swiss lever escapement, which has proven itself to be a reasonably solid performer and crucially, one fit for mass production. However, in the latter decades of the century, one English watchmaker attempted to challenge the industry status quo. In 1974, George Daniels invented the “co-axial escapement”, a seemingly novel and practical escapement of his own design that was conceived as an functionally superior alternative to the Swiss lever escapement. Daniels’ invention fulfilled his ambition, at least in part, when it was sold to Omega and then successfully industrialised starting in 1999; today it is found in hundreds of thousands of movements that Omega produces each year. The latest iteration of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is kitted out with the co-axial escapement With the merits of the co-axial escapement having been proven in part by its large-scale adoption, my aim here is not to examine its intrinsic qualities, but rather delve into its development. Specifically I will explore the fact that the co-axial escapement might not be an ent...
Quill & Pad
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon lives up to its name. It has a date, a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon. But it has more: this watch has character. Assigning human traits to a cold machine is a – romantic – fool’s errand, but it’s also irresistible in the presence of a masterpiece. A. Lange & Söhne’s warmest watch is more than a machine with a heartbeat. It has soul.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself. Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine. Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter ho...
SJX Watches
The world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has in recent years revealed steadily growing ambitions in haute horlogerie, especially after its acquisition of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFDT). To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of its namesake founder, the brand created the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”. Conceived by LFDT, the Tambour “200 Years” is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that demonstrates its watchmaking division’s mastery of fine watchmaking as well as its appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship: the movement combines both a minute repeater and automaton, while the dial is enamel miniature painting by none other than Anita Porchet. Initial thoughts Some two years in the making, the Tambour “200 Years ” exemplifies Louis Vuitton’s development as a maker of haute horlogerie. The movement is impressively complicated, while the dial is nuanced and artisanal. Granted, the watch is huge at almost 48 mm, so it’s far from subtle, but that reflects the house style of Louis Vuitton. The dial in particular reveals the thought that went into its conception and execution, with the cosmos represented by shaded, translucent blue enamel that is nearly ethereal and complemented by automaton elements sculpted in white gold. The impressionistic depiction of the night sky and planets brings to mind Stanley Kubrick’s sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Tambour “200 Years” is actually the se...
Teddy Baldassarre
History First introduced in 1961, the Seiko Alpinist was a significant milestone in the Japanese brand's history It was the first ‘Sports Watch’ for Seiko. Like all great watch designs, it was created with a purpose in mind. The Alpinist was geared up to take on the great outdoors with Japanese mountain climbers. It needed to be rugged and legible. In this story, we will aim to share the full Seiko Alpinist lineup (going back some!). And then finally, although we think you will be sold within the first paragraph or two - why you should consider one! Let’s get into it. In 1961 we saw the first Alpinist, the Laurel. It is, in collecting circles, the holy grail Alpinist! Produced in black and cream dials, it was categorized by the now iconic arrow markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9. Later in 1963 saw the introduction of the Alpinist Champion 850, this Alpinist reference was instantly recognizable by its bold central lines which extended to the hour markers. A year later in 1964, it was time for the gold variation, the “85899” (interestingly it did not boast the central hour markings like the previous reference). Many, many years later in 1995, we were presented with the Red Alpinist, with the now legendary red writing at 6 o’clock and Arabic numerals at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10. The early 2000s saw the introduction of the Alpinist 8f56 which used the same inner bezel compass as the 1995 Prospex, and there was even a limited edition of 500 pieces in a blue dial made for SS...
Worn & Wound
Much of the country might be gripped by the dead of winter, but that doesn’t mean we can’t start thinking about the summer watches we’ll be wearing just a few (OK, maybe more than “a few”) months from now. In fact, I’d argue that a week where you see multiple major snowstorms leaving the landscape gray, salt stained, and dangerously icy is the perfect time to consider the next summer sports watch. The power of positive thinking, and whatnot. Citizen, it turns out, has a few contenders that have just been announced if you’re on the hunt for something fun and sporty for the warmer months. A bonus: these also work perfectly fine in an Ice Station Zebra situation, but I’m trying to lift myself out of a winter funk, so bear with me while I indulge a short lived fantasy of beach weather and strong drinks with those little umbrellas in them. The pair of watches making their debut this month are built on Citizen’s fantastic Eco-Drive platform of solar charged quartz movements, perhaps the ultimate in affordable grab-and-go watch tech. Each watch is also based on Citizen classics from the early 00s, a period of time when the Big Watch trend was reaching a peak. The “Autozilla,” released in 2002, was a titanium dive watch with a water resistance rating of 1,000 meters in an enormous 55mm case. Citizen followed that watch up with the “Ecozilla,” a version of the watch with a similar case but powered by light, in 2004. Both are highly sought after by Citize...
Worn & Wound
Today, Omega has unveiled a new Speedmaster that their social media team has been teasing aggressively for the past few weeks. They promised a “tiny device” delivering a “massive change,” and to that end the announcement today is really more about mechanics than a new watch. There is a new watch, of course, but to the extent that today’s news excites you, it will almost certainly be a result of a very small component that Omega has completely rethought. The Speedmaster Super Racing is the first timepiece from Omega to feature what they’re calling “Spirate” technology. Spirate is essentially a new method of movement regulation by way of a small knob connected to the balance that allows a watchmaker to adjust the rate in increments down to the tenth of a second. Omega claims that the end result is a movement that’s accurate to within 0/+2 seconds per day. Again, this is a mechanical movement that is, yes, METAS certified to be within two seconds per day. That’s Spring Drive level accuracy, without the benefit of quartz derived regulation. Assuming Spirate works as advertised (there’s no reason not to assume that given Omega’s proficiency in making highly accurate movements at a large scale) this is an enormously impressive accomplishment. How does it work, exactly? Omega had to develop an entirely new silicon balance spring that can be adjusted for stiffness via a mechanism connected to the balance bridge (easily visible through the sapphire caseb...
Worn & Wound
Data nerds, rejoice: Mark Cho’s watch size survey is back. Back in 2019, watch collector and menswear retailer Mark Cho conducted his first watch size survey in an attempt to put some data behind one of the most peculiar yet foundational facets of watch collecting (we wrote about that survey here). The questions in Mark’s survey go beyond simple preferences, but get to how we view our own wrist size. Is it smaller or larger than average? And what effect does that have on the watches we choose to buy? Mark even asks about preferences for a potential “secondary watch” (a sports watch for the weekend, for example) to put an even finer point on the way we feel about watch size. When Mark first conducted the survey, he found that a significant percentage of respondents viewed their wrist as smaller than average, which could theoretically have been a result of the tail end of the Big Watch era making us all think our wrists were too small to comfortably handle some of the most popular watches of the time. In the relatively short period that’s passed since that first survey, though, smaller watches (not small watches) have fully come back into fashion, so it will be interesting to see if perceptions change along with preferences. Regardless, there’s sure to be a ton of data, and it will be interesting to comb through it once the survey is complete. If you’re interested in Mark’s findings from that first survey, be sure to check out his lecture for the Horologi...
Worn & Wound
It’s safe to say that the Metric from our friends at Brew has struck a certain chord since its release in mid 2021. The watch is a perfect expression of the brand’s retro-modern design forward sensibilities, and it happens to be utterly fantastic on the wrist. We’ve seen a few other colorways pop up since its introduction, and at less than $500, supply can never never seem to keep up with demand. Today, the Brew Metric welcomes its chicest colorway to date: gold. The Metric Gold touts a full gold plated case and bracelet with a striking black dial beset with gold hands and markers. The Brew Metric Gold retains the 36mm x 41.5mm case dimensions (10.75mm in thickness) that we loved in the earlier variants, and embraces a clean pure gold and black colorway that works shockingly well in this design, which also did pretty well in its color-forward sporty guise. The dial design has been altered slightly, welcoming Arabic numerals in the rehaut marking each 5 minute segment. Gone is the subtle callout between the 25 and 35 second mark, which was a nod to the ideal brewing time for an espresso shot. Inside, Brew is using the hybrid vk68 meca-quartz chronograph, with a running seconds hand at 6 o’clock, and a minute totalizer at 9 o’clock. The TV shaped dial section is completely covered with a sapphire crystal, which is a welcome touch in this price range. A polished bevel along the side of the case meets the integrated(ish) flat link bracelet creating something of a s...
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