Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Recommendations for a Budding Collector, from Our Archives
We recommend six watches for a budding collector, from brands like Rolex, IWC, Oris, Montblanc, Seiko, and Chopard.
3,097 articles · 63 videos found · page 102 of 106
Deployant
We recommend six watches for a budding collector, from brands like Rolex, IWC, Oris, Montblanc, Seiko, and Chopard.
Deployant
Our Throwback Sundays article today focuses on aviation themed watch, which includes brands like Patek Philippe, IWC, Rolex, Sinn, Breitling, and Zenith.
Revolution
As is the trend now for so many brands with model-rich histories - think Cartier, Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre - “re-booting” a different range has become an annual activity. IWC is part of that tradition, having in recent years relaunched, for example, the Portofino and Portuguieser families. To the delight of a swathe of IWC devotees, this […]
Deployant
Name a brand with a historic case of more than half a century's fame and has had both a Rolex movement and a Unitas 6497 in it. Yours truly, Panerai.
Deployant
A short guide for a big watch, with pieces from Lange, Audemars Piguet, Urwerk, Panerai, Zenith, and Rolex.
Deployant
A short guide for a watch with a racing theme, with pieces from MB&F;, Bremont, Hublot, L.U. Chopard, Tudor, and Rolex.
Deployant
Six recommendations for a chronograph part 1. Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph, IWC Top Gun, Tudor Heritage Chronograph
Revolution
Collectors the world over eagerly anticipate the bi-annual Only Watch auction. Held under the patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco, the event brings together the most prestigious watch brands on behalf of research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy. For Only Watch 2015, Blancpain has created a unique example of its Traditional Chinese […]
Deployant
A recommendation guide to purchase a heirloom watch, with pieces from Breguet, Patek Philippe, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, Lange, and Kari Voutilainen.
Deployant
A short guide to purchasing gold watches, with pieces from A. Lange and Sohne, Rolex, MB&F;, Panerai, L.U. Chopard, and HYT.
Deployant
A short recommendation guide to purchase tool watches, with pieces from IWC, Seiko, Rolex, Sinn, IWC, and Audemars Piguet.
Deployant
Baselworld 2015: Top 5 watches patek philippe rolex zenith debethune cabestan split seconds chrono yatchmaster tourbillon triple axis collector's view
Deployant
The history of dive watches date back to 1950s, when Blancpain and Rolex came up with the Fifty Fathoms and the Submariner respectively. These are not just mere devices that tell time; they are tool watches that provide information to assist people in carrying out their work. They were also immensely popular, due to their robustnessRead More
Revolution
Tudor has gained incredible momentum in the last couple of years. Although they are still Rolex’s little brother, their collection is no longer an emulation of Rolex. Taking a more independent approach to watchmaking, Tudor watches are no longer made with Rolex-cases with ETA-movements. Instead, the brand showcases their rich heritage with modern interpretations of […]
Revolution
There’s a lot of postulation as to why suddenly a whole new generation of watch collectors, myself included, have become so fixated with vintage watches. To me, the charm of an over-half-a-century-old Rolex GMT or a nearly-40-year-old Patek Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A is that when you strap it to your wrist, you realize that, while time […]
Revolution
The Rolex Submariner, the Omega Seamaster Professional and the Cartier Santos Galbee are classics that are more often than not worn on a bracelet. You’d wonder sometimes if these watches would have been the successes they are now if they had only been offered on a strap. Even more so for watches like the Audemars […]
Revolution
Avtomat Kalashnikova 1947, better known as the AK-47, is easily the most recognizable and, unfortunately, most widely produced and distributed assault rifle in the world. Designed in Russia in the aftermath of World War II, it was meant to put the most firepower possible into the hands of as many Soviet soldiers as possible, as […]
Fratello
Maen has been gracing us with a string of interesting new releases over the past few months. First, the Swedish brand with Dutch roots released the updated Hudson 38 MK5. After that, Maen continued its partnership with Nico Leonard with the Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin. And last month, I reviewed the refreshed Hudson GMT MKII. Today, […] Visit Maen Kick-Starts Its Boutique Exclusive Series With A New Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin to read the full article.
Hodinkee
It's somehow nearly halfway through June, and your reward is a chance for a breather with a few interesting watches to distract you from the heat. While, to my knowledge, Hodinkee has no specific editorial policy for supporting sports teams, given that it's a New York-based publication, it feels only fair to note that I hope the NBA Finals conclude tomorrow and the Knicks get their (long-overdue) chip, and I hope the long-suffering fans get a chance to absolutely freak out. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Cartier pocket watch sold for €3,980, the Explorer sold, but the auctioneer didn't list the price and hasn't answered my email yet, the Gruen Techno Quadrant sold for €1,300, the Tudor Ranger II for €1,600, the Broad Arrow Polerouter for £6,200, and the Railmaster did not sell. On to the main course. Strays Photo courtesy Dannenberg. If you're looking for ways to jump-start a relationship with a local watchmaker, or if you're simply in the mood for what promises to be an equally fun and maddening series of projects, here's a tantalizing box of Valjoux 72 parts/movements/dials/cases (if yes on chronographs but no on that particular option, here's a box of Tissot parts and here's one of Lemania and Valjoux parts). Crazy for LIP watches? It's your lucky day (well, technically, next Friday is). Photo courtesy Finarte. Perhaps you, like me, have felt an odd urge toward asymmetric watches of late; if so, this Vacheron Constantin should get your motor running, and, ...
Hodinkee
In two recent conversations, I repeated my frequently used adage: "I can't collect the watches, so I collect the knowledge." This was said when talking to two world-class collectors; one has one of the most complete collections of Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, and the other has probably the most important collection of Lange, F.P. Journe, and historical watches in the world. Both of them said the same thing, which I'll paraphrase. "I didn't have the money to collect these watches until X years ago, but before that, I was learning." That's why I own a lot of books—even if I probably will never reach those heights—and I'm always looking for more. Knowledge means a lot. Watch books often fall into two categories: either overly esoteric, with a ton of information, or overly broad, without a ton of information but with a lot of nice pictures. I have a bit of each, but I find myself returning to the former most often. You can glean a lot of information from books like AP's "20th Century Complicated Watches" or Patek Philippe's two-volume museum collection tomes, but you only need them once or twice a year. My books on Rolex Day-Dates or Khanjar Daytonas are awesome, but a bit less visited after the first pass. Dr. Helmut Crott's "The Dial" is maybe the most important book on my shelf, but sometimes more information than I want to sit and mindlessly digest. Taschen's new two-volume offering, "Ultimate Collectors Watches" by Charlotte and Peter Fiell, bridges the g...
Hodinkee
Earlier in the week, I got a chance to see the new Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop collaboration in person, the hottest (and most hotly debated) thing since, well, Swatch did their first collaboration with Omega. There were some restrictions, like the fact that I couldn't handle some of them without gloves, but I did get enough of an impression to have a lot of thoughts. Yes, I think they're a lot of fun, and actually pretty impressive in some ways. I get that a lot of people will disagree, and that's fine. But to answer the last part of our headline first: you can get the Swatch x AP Royal Pop watches only at select retail stores starting May 16. You can find those stores on the Swatch website by going to the homepage, looking for the collab, and clicking the "See Stores" link. One version (with a crown at the right) is $420, while the other (with a crown at the top) is $400. Also, this is not an AP-led product, so don't call your local AP AD hoping to get one. Swatch is in charge here. Love it or hate it, the Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop is big news. How big? A few hundred comments on our site is a good measure. But how about the fact that, in 24 hours, our "Introducing" story on the collab got about 20x an average story would do in a month and 1.75x more page views than the Rolex "Pepsi" GMT cancellation (which was the highest-traffic story of Watches & Wonders to date). We love watches over here, but it can be a bubble. There are a few rare moments when the wa...
Worn & Wound
This month, I’ll be on 12 flights across four cities, two continents and nearly three weeks away from home, so – yeah – I’ve been thinking a lot about planes lately. Perhaps, quite coincidentally, Farer has been, too, with the launch of their new Pilot Collection Series II, with three new models debuting. The collection has been redesigned around a 40mm Grade 2 titanium case, with a bead-blasted finish and a brushed bezel with a coin-edge profile. Across the line, Farer keeps the focus on legibility and performance, using large markers, broad minute tracks and lozenge-shaped hands applied with Grade X2 Super-LumiNova. Powering each watch is the Sellita SW300-1 Elaboré automatic movement, offering a 56-hour power reserve. Since cockpits can be highly magnetic environments, Farer has protected the movement with an internal soft iron Faraday cage, giving the watches anti-magnetic resistance up to 500 Gauss – these are the little details of Farer that go beyond just theming a watch and making it functional and operational to those that inspired the collection. The Curtis, named for English aviator and flight test engineer Eleanor Lettice Curtis, uses a blue-grey guilloché dial divided into twelve slightly concave sections, catching the light in a way reminiscent, as Farer notes, to the motion of a propeller. It has applied Lumicast markers, pale yellow lume and orange accents, with an additional Curtis Eastern Arabic edition limited to 100 pieces. The Barnwell is...
Hodinkee
Ask people about the most exciting thing they saw at Watches and Wonders, and I'm willing to bet that a few people might just mention something that wasn't even at the show, but rather tucked away in Old Town—the new Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback. And you know what? That's understandable. I mean, the new RRCHF has been the talk of the town since its introduction earlier this month, marking the first release from Rexhepi and his brand in literal years. Years in which the brand has continued to climb in legend, desirability, and hype, thanks to the growing recognition of Rexhepi's previous Akrivia line of watches, as well as icons like the Chronomètre Contemporain I and II. If you came here looking for a lengthy read about the new chronograph, I'll steer you instead to Ben's original article covering the release, which has plenty of words that encapsulate everything around the watch and the history leading up to it. And not to spoil anything, but Mark's working on a deeper, hands-on look at the new watch, hitting Hodinkee this summer. So, during our visit last week to Rexhepi's Atelier Akrivia, we decided to do something fun and expand on Ben's initial write-up, which compares the RRCHF to two iconic, high-end, hand-wound chronographs that seem most similar to the RRCHF in the vein of a classically designed chronograph. So we brought along a Patek Philippe 5170P, as well as an A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Chronograph, just so I could shoot them alongside Rexhepi's chronogra...
Hodinkee
It was bound to happen. I've written nine Bring a Loupes, covering 38 watches (excluding Strays or Buyer Beware watches). Two weeks back, I picked a clunker of a Doxa Sub 300T, which, among other issues, had the wrong hands (I'd actually been more concerned with the dial), and in my enthusiasm for vintage Doxa divers, I screwed up and included it. My apologies, though, as Coleman Hawkins consoles, "If you aren't making mistakes, you aren't really trying." Scorekeeping the picks from two weeks ago, the Esso Breguet sold for €15,2000, the Juvenia Arithmo's still available, the Blancpain Bund sold for €15,500, the Doxa Sub 300T passed, the Chaumet sells Friday afternoon and has been bid to $12,000 at the time of writing, and the black dialed Seamaster sold for CHF 1,000. Strays A Universal Genève Railrouter. For sale on OmegaForums. A Gübelin Cioccolatone at Monaco Legend this weekend. For absolutely no reason whatsoever, here's a lovely Doxa Sub 300. As Stefon (from SNL) would say, this watch has it all: original (correct!) black hands, no-T dial, signed expandro bracelet and screw-down crown, and, of course, the OG thin case. These early thin-cased Doxa Sub 300s were made for only a year, and aside from minor paint loss on the bezel, this looks like an excellent example. If the Doxa's not your flavor and/or diving's not your bag, maybe this UG Railrouter'll do it for you. I have an overdeveloped fondness for railroad watches, which fondness is equaled by my appreciati...
Fratello
Pilot’s watches have a habit of getting carried away with themselves. Some lean so hard into the heritage side that they end up feeling more like costume pieces than modern watches. I don’t know about you, but I’m not interested in cosplaying as a WWII fighter pilot. Others go big for the sake of it, […] Visit How HTD’s New Phantom Finally Keeps The Pilot Watch Formula In Check to read the full article.
Fratello
Over the past year, I have had the pleasure of reviewing three watches from Makina. The young Filipino brand has quickly demonstrated a wide range of offerings. What ties the different models together is their combination of industrial, almost futuristic design that still features a good injection of classic watchmaking elegance. With the new Makina […] Visit Going Back To The Beginning With The Makina Uriel_VII to read the full article.
Fratello
The first Credor watch I ever saw in real life was an Eichi II. We organized a trip for our readers to Grand Seiko in Japan several years ago, and one of the guests just pulled one out of his pocket (I kid you not). Credor is the cream of the crop, the crown jewel […] Visit Introducing: The New Credor Goldfeather Urushi And Tourbillon to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I used to really enjoy watching sports. But over the last few years, it’s become almost impossible to enjoy, as it feels like telecasts exist for the sole purpose of driving viewers toward gambling websites like FanDuel and DraftKings. It’s truly pervasive, and depending on how you view sports betting it’s either a mild annoyance or the sign of something darker and more insidious: the steady financialization of every form of entertainment. This isn’t an editorial on the ethics of gambling (or capitalism) but I’ve been thinking about both over the last several hours after we learned that Bezel, the online watch retailer that acts as an authenticated marketplace for many sought after watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and others, has teamed up with Kalshi, the prediction markets platform that lets users place bets not just on sports, but on questions like “What will Pete Hegseth say during his press conference?” and “Which bank will take SpaceX public?” Now, Kalshi users and presumably watch collectors and speculators can bet on changing watch valuations, as well as the likelihood of potential new releases. This seems like a uniquely terrible idea, and I hate everything about it. First, and this goes almost without saying, as watch enthusiasts, we are always trying to divorce ourselves from placing a high degree of importance on the value of any given watch. While nobody wants to lose money on an expensive watch purchase, real joy in this hobby comes ...
Worn & Wound
Every year at around this time, watch publications like to make predictions about what we’ll see over the course of the next twelve months. Personally, I really enjoy this type of content. It sets the stage for the year in an interesting way, and it also reveals something about whoever is making the prediction. Because at the end of the day, none of us really know anything. We’re all just throwing spaghetti at the wall, hoping some of it will stick. Here at Worn & Wound we have a truly terrible track record on making predictions about what will come next in the watch industry. If you dig back into our podcast archive and look at our claims, you’ll see that we’ve been very wrong about watches from Tudor, Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and many more brands. Sometimes we’re a bit early – when you make a Pelagos GMT prediction every year, eventually you’re going to be right. This year, I’m embracing chaos. These predictions are kind of wild and don’t really make any sense. But in the spirit of a world where you can bet on literally anything, I’m giving watch enthusiasts who like long odds something to spin a dream or two on. Prediction: the tide finally turns on textile straps in a war torn world Let’s face it, folks: the world is on fire. Watches offer a respite from the insanity for many of us, the same way Sunday night HBO and mom’s meatloaf feel like a warm blanket when things get crazy. This feels like it might be the time when those lingering ...
SJX Watches
It was a mixed year for affordable watches, led by segment stalwart Tudor. While appealing offerings from brands like Grand Seiko moved up beyond the US$10,000 mark, the gap was filled by a slate of interesting releases from so-called micro-brands. Here is a selection of affordable releases under US$10,000 that stood out this year. Tudor Ranger 36 - SJX I’m a fan of Tudor – I own several – because its watches are well made and priced even better. But the brand is increasingly appealing because of its gradual evolution towards enthusiast-friendly designs. The Ranger 36 illustrates that. The original Ranger was a little bit too large for this vintage-inspired design. Tudor doubtlessly received feedback to that effect. It took the brand a while, but now the 36 mm version is pretty much spot-on. The compact size fits the design well and the watch also feels good on the wrist. And because the case and bracelet are both entirely brushed, the Ranger 36 also has a low-key look that makes it a practical watch in almost any situation. The “dune white” dial is also a nice touch; it’s a nod to the “albino” dials found on some vintage sports watches (from Rolex rather than Tudor, but that’s a distinction without a difference for most of the brands’ histories). And importantly, the Ranger 36 is the most affordable Tudor with an in-house movement. It’s a solid entry into Tudor’s world of sports watches with high-spec movements. As an aside, Tudor clearly excels ...
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