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Results for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

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HANDS-ON: This Rado Golden Horse 1957 is one of the best watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Rado Golden Horse 1957 Dec 19, 2019

HANDS-ON: This Rado Golden Horse 1957 is one of the best watches of 2019

2019 has spawned a literal plethora of new watches for all us timekeeping enthusiasts out there in the horological ether to enjoy. And while not all of them have been unmitigated successes *cough, cough*, the best watches of the year, in my opinion, have been the rather large assortment of reissue and homage pieces. Chief … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: This Rado Golden Horse 1957 is one of the best watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: The Meaning of Quality in Vintage Watches SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Dec 18, 2019

Editorial: The Meaning of Quality in Vintage Watches

There are endless ways to collect in any category of art and collectibles, including watches. The easiest way is to buy whatever strikes one’s fancy, as a hobbyist’s pastime. Carried on over an extended period of time, one is bound to possess a sizeable collection, a mixed bag consisting of nice and, more likely than not, middling objects. But is this the best way? The alternative – and far more meaningful – way to collect, is the focus on quality. But just what, one may ask, is “quality”? In this day and age, it is a word thrown around a lot, by laymen, dealers, and collectors alike. To me, “quality”, first and foremost, refers to the significance of a given object. For the most serious collectors of timepieces made by Rolex and Patek Philippe – the two most important manufactures in watchmaking due to their continuous histories of producing illustrious craft – it entails the pursuit of models that are the most significant both aesthetically and technically.  At the pinnacle of Rolex collecting lies the ref. 6062. Debuted at the Basel fair in 1950, the 6062 was the world’s first waterproof, self-winding wristwatch with complete calendar and moon phase (pictured at top, a steel Rolex ref. 6062 from 1953). One of only two original Rolex models with moon phase – the other being the non-waterproof ref. 8171 with snap-back case – the 6062 represented the epitome of postwar Rolex watchmaking: a complicated yet robust and accurate automatic movement s...

Hands-On: Panerai Radiomir 8 Days 45mm PAM 992 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir 8 Days 45mm Dec 17, 2019

Hands-On: Panerai Radiomir 8 Days 45mm PAM 992

Panerai has gently eased itself towards a focus on more civilian sports watches, as opposed to retro-navy diver instrument remakes, since chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué took the helm in 2018. So its most recent releases this year include the extra-thin Luminor Due in titanium, along with commemorative editions for the America’s Cup yacht race. But Panerai is still keeping one eye on its Marina Militare heritage, exemplified by the pair of Radiomir watches unveiled last month, the most interesting of which is the Radiomir 8 Days 45mm (PAM00992). It has a vintage-esque style – not really a one for one remake – combined with an in-house, eight-day movement and a relatively accessible price of US$8,500. Most unusually, the steel case has a faux aged finish that Panerai is trying for the first time. Marina Militare The new Radiomir is not a remake of a vintage Panerai, but rather it’s a mix-and-match of various elements, including the engraved logo and “8 Giorni” emblem at three. Traditionalists might find it impure, but that was essentially the founding formula for the modern Panerai company. The result is a good-looking watch that approximates the look of a vintage Panerai while offering modern conveniences like a long power reserve. Even though it’s a large watch – the case is 45mm – it’s smallish by Panerai standards, since the military-style Panerai watches are usually 47mm. But it is big enough to look like a Panerai, and it wears well for a 45mm...

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue USP Dec 17, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue

USP – the acronym for “unique selling point”. A watchmaker’s USP is paramount to their success, and if you look at the general consensus of what’s considered the best brands out there, they’ve all got it - they each excel at something that puts them a cut above the rest. Whether it’s Rolex and their storied … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Introduces a Duo in Delicate Wood Marquetry SJX Watches
Hermes did Dec 16, 2019

Hermès Introduces a Duo in Delicate Wood Marquetry

In its usual tasteful yet quirky style, Hermès has unveiled a pair of wristwatches featuring dials decorated in wood marquetry,  tiny pieces of exotic woods assembled like a puzzle to form striking, abstract motifs; last year Hermes did the same in leather. Created by a young French marquetry artist, the dials start with a line drawing on tracing paper, which is then digitised and scaled down to the size of the dial. The reduced drawing is then printed out and cut into its component parts with a scalpel, forming the pattern for cutting. Each piece is then glued to a thin slice of exotic wood that is then cut with a small electric fret saw. The resulting bits of wood are then assembled with a tweezer, and occasional gentle hammering, before the dials are sanded and varnished, making them seem like an unbroken whole. Monochromatic yet intriguing enough to make you look twice, the Arceau Astrologie Nouvelle reproduces the pattern from the silk scarf of the same name. The original Astrologie scarf featured a classical star chart, but in 2012 designer Cyrille Diatkine reinterpreted the motif – nouvelle is French for “new” – breaking it up into alternating and inverted segments. The Astrologie Nouvelle motif has been recreated using tulipwood, a wood that can vary in colour from white to dark blue according to Hermès, resulting in the contrasting colours of the dial. Its case is 41mm and 18k white gold, containing the H1837 automatic made by Vaucher, a movement maker...

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 5 favourite articles of 2019 Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2019

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 5 favourite articles of 2019

As 2019 draws to a close and I get the opportunity to reflect on the year that was (as well as prepare for endless upcoming jokes on my 2020 vision), it’s impossible not to acknowledge that it has been a massive year for Time+Tide. The team has worked hard on a number of different projects, … ContinuedThe post LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 5 favourite articles of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 “One of the Best Value Watches” of recent years? Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 “One Dec 16, 2019

HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 “One of the Best Value Watches” of recent years?

Creating a timepiece that needs to pay homage while simultaneously capturing the imagination of the horological community is no mean feat … in fact, it’s fraught with failure. Time and time again, we’ve seen new watches based on vintage timepieces be unveiled, only to have them fall flat on their crystal-domed faces. Unveiled at this … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 “One of the Best Value Watches” of recent years? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique It was Dec 15, 2019

3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique

It was only three short years ago when the first-ever Australian Seiko Boutique opened in Sydney, but the Japanese powerhouse has kept very busy, announcing the exciting news of the opening of the first-ever Australian Grand Seiko Boutique. This is a strong statement from the brand as they continue to drive the distinction of Grand … ContinuedThe post 3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swiss Authorities Weigh ETA Sales Ban SJX Watches
Dec 15, 2019

Business News: Swiss Authorities Weigh ETA Sales Ban

According to Swiss newspaper Schweiz am Wochenende (via Reuters), Switzerland’s Competition Commission, a federal body that oversees competition and antitrust matters, is considering an outright ban of movements sales by ETA to third parties, in other words brands outside of the Swatch Group, starting January 2020. Also known as COMCO, or its German acronym WEKO, the agency is expected to deliver a verdict on December 19 . No explicit reason was cited for the potential ban, but it was implied that a recent COMCO report on the industry structure of the movement business is the reason. It is possible that COMCO believes the number of alternatives to ETA is sufficient that the watch industry would be better served over the long term by forcing watch brands to switch away from ETA. COMCO has long tussled with Switzerland’s biggest movement maker, in a dispute that began 17 years ago, when ETA announced it would gradually halt sales of ebauches, or movement blanks, to brands not owned by its parent company, Swatch Group. Because ETA was, and still is, Switzerland’s largest movement, reputedly producing some five million movements a year, its decision was regarded by COMCO as anticompetitive. And the wider Swatch Group – which is the country’s largest watchmaking conglomerate – produces perhaps a third of the components needed for watch movements in the entire industry. In the subsequent years ETA and COMCO reached various agreements over movement supply, with the l...

Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update Dec 14, 2019

Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update

Editor’s note: It may surprise the uninitiated to read this, but creating a completely new calibre, in-house, from scratch, is a very, very costly exercise. And there’s a reason that most boutique and micro watchmakers stick to third-party movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita, because to make their own movements is financially unviable. … ContinuedThe post Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco? It’s been Dec 14, 2019

VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco?

It’s been a big year for the TAG Heuer Monaco as it celebrated 50 years of production from when it was first released in 1969. The brand has released a number of limited editions this year in celebration; however, they arguably saved the most important release till last with the new TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-on: Tissot T-Complication Squelette SJX Watches
Tissot T-Complication Squelette Tissot has Dec 11, 2019

Hands-on: Tissot T-Complication Squelette

Tissot has a stellar reputation for well-made watches at notably affordable prices, like the recent Ballade Powermatic 80 or Heritage Petite Second. Switzerland’s biggest watchmaker by production, Tissot maintains a vast portfolio of vintage-inspired, dress and technology-focused watches, including a skeleton wristwatch with modern styling. Skeletonised watches are intriguing as the intricate mechanics that make a movement tick are front and centre. Combining both aesthetics and mechanics can be a tough nut to crack, however, as legibility in particular suffers when a movement is open-worked. Tissot managed to nail both looks and legibility with the T-Complication Squelette, which retails for a little under US$2000. At 43mm in diameter and 12mm high, the T-Complication Squelette is a sizeable watch on the wrist – it has presence – but also an expansive canvas of gears and springs. The stainless steel case is fully brushed with substantial “horn” lugs, and a handful of interesting details that contribute to its character. Most notably is the asymmetry on its upper right flank that is not initially obvious. The case subtly widens from the crown to the top-right lug, filling the angular space between the lug and case that’s present on the other three lugs. And the signed crown has an interesting knurled pattern reminiscent of a turbine, creating a subtle mechanical motif that is echoed in the movement. The bezel is relatively narrow and simply gets out of the way....

3 reasons why the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum is still amazing Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum Dec 11, 2019

3 reasons why the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum is still amazing

Much as it pains me to admit it, these days, haute horology is usually reserved for the rarified and uber-expensive micro-brands of the Swiss watchmaking world. It’s not that the heavyweights of the industry have completely given up on the idea of innovation – far from it – but it does seem as though there’s … ContinuedThe post 3 reasons why the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum is still amazing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We take a look at 5 seriously cool vintage TAG Heuer Autavias Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavias One Dec 11, 2019

We take a look at 5 seriously cool vintage TAG Heuer Autavias

One of the best things about TAG Heuer is the Swiss marque’s remarkable history with motorsport - few other watchmakers, if any, have such a rich back catalogue of timekeeping devices purpose-built for the ultimate expression of man vs machine. And while many will immediately associate the angular Monaco as the most iconic wristwatch associated with … ContinuedThe post We take a look at 5 seriously cool vintage TAG Heuer Autavias appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches worn by Al Pacino on the big screen Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2019

Watches worn by Al Pacino on the big screen

As promised in the article on Robert De Niro and his watches in film, we are following up with watches worn by Al Pacino. Pacino is best known for his roles as Detective Vincent Hanna in Heat, Cuban gangster Tony Montana in Scarface, Lieutenant Colonel Frank Slade in Scent of a Woman, and Mafia don Michael Corleone … ContinuedThe post Watches worn by Al Pacino on the big screen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Everyone’s Dec 8, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36

Everyone’s first Rolex purchase is important - it’s a milestone that, for most, carries with it a great amount of pride and sense of accomplishment. And for almost all of us out there lucky enough to have bought their inaugural timepiece from the legacy watchmaker, it isn’t something that was entered into lightly; we have known … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Stefanie Ng Appointed CEO of Audemars Piguet SE Asia SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet SE Asia Audemars Piguet Dec 7, 2019

Business News: Stefanie Ng Appointed CEO of Audemars Piguet SE Asia

Audemars Piguet (AP) recently named Stefanie Ng to lead its operations in Southeast Asia, India and Australia. She succeeds Jonathan King, who departed the brand in April 2019. Having started her career at Swatch Group, Ms Ng joined AP in 2012 as marketing manager for the region, where she helped execute projects like the Royal Oak 40th anniversary exhibition and a giant floral clock at Gardens by the Bay. The past two years have been formative for the brand, both in Asia and the wider world, as it has steadily trimmed its third-party distribution while growing sales within its own stores, making the marketing efforts of Ms Ng and her team vital, particularly with the launch of the all-new Code 11.59 collection earlier this year. As chief executive, Ms Ng will work alongside two board members of AP, which is unusual amongst Swiss watchmakers in having shareholders resident in Singapore: Oliviero Bottinelli, whose family inherited its stake from former AP chief executive Georges Golay (1921-1987), and Sunil Amarasuriya, who was once the distributor for AP in the region and acquired a minority stake in 1990. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 tourbillon made for Only Watch, which sold for a record 1m Swiss francs at the charity auction in November Though the watch industry in the region, like that back home in Switzerland, is dominated by men, it’s noteworthy that two of the most important brands – coincidentally both family owned – are now run by women. The Patek Philipp...

The ‘Barty Party’ hits Australia, and there are just 123 Rado watches available to celebrate Time+Tide
Rado watches available Dec 5, 2019

The ‘Barty Party’ hits Australia, and there are just 123 Rado watches available to celebrate

I’m fortunate to be able to say I’ve met a couple of world number one tennis players in my time. Ash Barty, current women’s number one, is not like any of them. She has no star vibes as such. No X Factor. No celebrity aura. What she carries with herself, which comes across in person, … ContinuedThe post The ‘Barty Party’ hits Australia, and there are just 123 Rado watches available to celebrate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph Time+Tide
Vertex Dec 4, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph

Vertex is a brand with a wonderful history. Founded in 1916 by Claude Lyons, the brand produced watches for Allied troops in the Second World War, following the specifications of the British Ministry of Defence, alongside 11 other brands (a group of manufacturers now known by collectors as the Dirty Dozen). The brand continued to … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari Dec 3, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire

Unlike Ferrari’s frankly dismal efforts in Formula 1 this year, 2019 has been a great 12 months for the Italian supercar manufacturer in terms of their commercial and creative partnership with watchmaking vanguards, Hublot. The curvaceous and inimitable Classic Fusion Ferrari GT was not only one of my personal favourites from the provocative Swiss marque, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolling in the deep with the Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm It Dec 2, 2019

Rolling in the deep with the Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm

It has been a big year for Panerai’s distinctive Submersible range, with the new and now standalone collection featuring heavily at the watchmaker’s 2019 SIHH showing. The amphibious timepieces, while varied, have been a great opportunity for Panerai to show off some of their newest innovative materials. Case in point is this Submersible, the BMG-TECH … ContinuedThe post Rolling in the deep with the Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.