Hodinkee
Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S With Silvered Dial
The most understated true sport watch of 2021 has landed.
Results for Windup Watch Fair New York
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: Unraveling The Mysteries Of Time With Scientists From MIT
Turns out you don't need to be a nuclear physicist to understand a new breakthrough in atomic timekeeping.
Hodinkee
The World Needs More Diverse Watchmakers
Marginalized communities often face barriers to learning the craft. With two new scholarships, America’s first watchmaking guild is trying to increase representation.
Hodinkee
Aldis Hodge’s Path To Purpose - Hodinkee Magazine
The actor and watch designer explores his personal history with horology and how watches can be used to build a lasting legacy.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1979 Rolex Submariner With Mark 3 'Lollipop' Maxi Dial, A 1970s Heuer Monaco Ref. 1133B, And A 1970s Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Polaris II 'GT'
New year, new vintage watches.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1977 Rolex Submariner Retailed By Tiffany & Co., A 1960s Universal Genève Polerouter Sub, And A 1970s Omega Constellation Electroquartz
Give the gift of a vintage watch this holiday season.
Quill & Pad
The Schmidt List: Top 5 Funky Clicks
The click spring is one of the smaller components of a mechanical watch, but it is of enormous importance. Ever wondered why the crown doesn’t retaliate furiously and unwind every time you crank it? Without the click spring, a wound mainspring would immediately – and explosively – uncoil like a raging viper in a hat box.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date oozes with decadent panache
The recent Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date is a perfect example of how a limited-edition collaboration can achieve something timeless, classic, and ultimately lust-worthy. In a watch such as this, it’s hard to pick out just one thing which makes it special, however, the oxblood dial is as sumptuous as they come. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date oozes with decadent panache appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Available to Buy: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze
Hamilton deploys a new bronze Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm into action.
Revolution
Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection
There’s a fresh breeze blowing through the world of watch design and floating on that breeze like a clump of gossamer goodness is Oris’ latest confection: the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy”. The case is the familiar and popular Divers Sixty-Five bronze, clocking in at a versatile 38mm across, domed sapphire crystal, rated to 100 metres and with a stainless steel caseback concealing the automatic calibre Oris 733 inside. The dial comes in three super sweet flavours, complemented by the use of bronze for the case and bracelet. What remains to be seen is how bronze - famous for how it tends to patina - will interplay with the dial. Will a hint of verdigris make the dials seem that much more delicious? Only time will tell.
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso Interviewed By Elizabeth Doerr On How The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Launched His Love Of Watches On ‘Talking Time With Tim’ Podcast
Elizabeth Doerr guest stars on this episode of the Tim Mosso podcast but turns the tables when she ends up interviewing Tim about his history as a collector, his experience with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, and his views of the 90th anniversary of this famed watch. Elizabeth and Tim discuss the Reverso series at length and reflect on their favorite models from its 90-year history.
SJX Watches
Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition
While Breguet is associated with classical timepieces – and a history laden with gems that continue to inspire watchmakers today – it does have a significant history with military watches. In the mid-20th century, Breguet, along with a few other watchmakers, supplied the French military with the “Type 20” aviator’s chronograph. Breguet has referenced that military history since the military-inspired Type XX of 1994, which was succeeded by the more complex Type XXI and Type XXII. And now Breguet has just unveiled the Type XXI 3815, which has a titanium case and strikingly peculiar dials in two colours. The version with orange “lume” is especially striking Initial thoughts Breguet has been iterating the Type 20 for almost 30 years – rumour has it a replacement for the base model is due next year – and the Type XXI was an upgrade to the original that never gained the popularity of the original. The new Type XXI 3815 is the third variant of the model to date, and perhaps a missed opportunity. Most elements on the watch are taken from historical models, each correct on its own way – including faux-radium lume and a “big eye” register – but combined haphazardly. The result is an aesthetic that tries to be bold but ends up looking odd. The combination of elements on the dial leaves it off balance. The “big eye” counter feels too big, creating the impression it is far off centre, while the text under 12 o’clock leaves the dial top heavy. Add to t...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2021
Patek Philippe went big at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition that just opened at its Geneva Salon. The watchmaker unveiled the 75 timepieces of this year’s Rare Handcrafts collection, along with as many more from last year’s line up that is on show for the first time, since the 2020 exhibition was cancelled. The most accessible watches of the collection, relatively speaking, are the complicated watches that will join the regular catalogue, which include a trio of chiming watches, from the graceful minute repeater for ladies to the new Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R But it is the rest of the Rare Handcrafts collection that capture the creativity and diversity the brand’s metiers d’art. Each unique, the watches and clocks are mechanically uncomplicated, and instead use the dial and case as a canvas to showcase exquisite, vivid depictions of animals, landscapes, and art with a variety of artisanal techniques. Here’s a selection of a few standouts from this year’s collection, all one-off creations that are expensive but usually sold in advance, so most will be dispatched to their owners after the exhibition. Dome clocks One of Patek Philippe’s most distinctive timepieces is not a watch, but the round-topped table clock. A fixture in its catalogue for decades, the Dome Clock is produced in small numbers every year, typically with its exterior panels decorated in enamel. This year’s Rare Handcrafts catalogue includes...
Revolution
Introducing the Breitling Endurance Pro IRONMAN®
The new watches evoke the strength and endurance that characterizes triathletes in the grueling competition.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R
At the opening of its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva, Patek Philippe took the covers off a suite of watches and clocks decorated with artisanal techniques, including a new version of its ultra-fancy grand complication, the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R. First offered in blue enamel, and then black, the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 was the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s catalogue, until the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 and Grand Sonnerie ref. 6301. But the Sky Moon Tourbillon remains the most ornately decorated amongst its peers, with every surface of the case – and even the hands – engraved with arabesques and the dial in cloisonné enamel. Initial thoughts Enormous at 44 mm wide and over 17 mm high, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is an expensive, complex wristwatch that looks, well, expensive and complex. It’s often a statement piece for the segment of clients who find a Richard Mille affordable but unrefined, the new rose-gold variant makes sense. The metal is the most popular for high-end watches, globally but especially in Asia. It is warmer and richer, making the watch seem even more luxe – a useful characteristic in watch like this. The rationale for the Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold is clear. As a watch, I am certain it will be impressive, probably even more impressive than the earlier versions of the watch due to its brighter colours. It’s too baroque – and of course unaffordable – for most, but the target demographic w...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Chrono Monopoussoir
An architect-turned-watch-designer who made his reputation with a distinctive, whimsical style, Alain Silberstein founded one of the most prominent independent watch brands of the 1990s. Located in Besançon, the historic centre of French watchmaking, the Alain Silberstein brand went under in 2012 but has since enjoyed a revival thanks to a collaboration with Louis Erard that gave birth to an affordable regulator-style wristwatch. More recently, Mr Silberstein designed a charming pendulum clock. An early Alain Silberstein from the 1990s, this one the uncommon Krono Saphir with a sapphire crystal case Now the designer is back with a set of wristwatches, once again made by Louis Erard, but this time designed from the ground up as an entirely new model. The Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein is made up of three watches, all having the same case and design cues, but featuring different complications. They are available individually or as a box set. The top-of-the-line model is the Le Chrono Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, an automatic, single-button chronograph. The other two watches in the set are priced identically but quite different: La Semaine shows the time along with the trademark Silberstein “Smileday” calendar, while Le Régulateur has a regulator-style display. The Triptyque with the Le Régulateur (left), La Semaine (centre), and Le Chrono Monopoussoir. Photo – Louis Erard We’re only going up close with the mono-pusher chronograp...
SJX Watches
Corum Marks 10 Years of the Golden Bridge Automatic
While known for unorthodox designs such as the Coin, Bubble and Admiral’s Cup, Corum’s piece de resistance is the Golden Bridge. Devised by independent watchmaker and ACHI co-founder Vincent Calabrese in 1980, the delicate, elongated movement remains a watchmaking feat. In 2011, Corum debuted the automatic Golden Bridge movement that was wound by an innovative weight that slid on rails. To celebrate the decade since that milestone, Corum has created the 10th Anniversary Golden Bridge Automatic, which puts the movement within a larger case with a wraparound sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts I’m not the biggest fan of Corum’s better known designs, which are often oversized and ostentatious. The exception is the Golden Bridge, which is to Corum what the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is to Girard-Perregaux – a movement defined by its construction and aesthetics. I’ve always liked the Golden Bridge – the baguette shape is not only unique, but also a mechanical marvel. The automatic Golden Bridge further stands out for its vertical winding mass, instead of a traditional rotor. My pick of the collection Starting at about US$35,000 in titanium, the 10th Anniversary Golden Bridge Automatic is actually rather well-priced, considering the movement. In fact, the new anniversary models are priced lower than their 2011 counterparts. The watch is available in either titanium or titanium and rose gold, along with diamond-set variants Smoked Sapphire Like the original...
Time+Tide
Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection…
All too often we discuss watches as assets. Usually when we hear about people selling pieces from their collection it is part of an effort to fund the next watch – something I am well documented in doing. But when you reach a certain collection tier, or have the right references, moving such watches can … ContinuedThe post Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
#Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs
Seiko diving watches are invariably fantastic. But we all eagerly anticipate the deep blue hues and structured dials of the Save The Ocean releases which, for me, are yearly high points within the Prospex range for dial art, coming close to the brilliance of big brother Grand Seiko, but at great prices. Here, we’re pairing … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection - Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature
As you might know, I am a bit of a dial fetishist, so when faced with a new limited collection from Grand Seiko, the risk is always there – that fear of repeating myself or getting so carried away that I overreach and baffle you with new adjectives that I’ve accidentally made up in an … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua
When it was first announced that Audemars Piguet and Marvel would be collaborating on a watch, social media lit up with criticism of the project. Yet only a couple of months later, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon has been seen on the wrists of more taste makers than you can … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
George Daniels Millennium Wristwatch With High Estimate Of £300,000 To Be Auctioned By Bonhams
With auction prices soaring, it’s a good time for an auction house to be offering rare timepieces by the world’s best independent watchmakers. George Daniels and Roger Smith made a series of 50 Millennium wristwatches back in 1999, and Bonhams is now offering one in its sale on June 16, 2021 with a high estimate of £300,000. Don't be surprised if it goes for much more than that, though.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The dark panache of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud
The Bol d’Or Mirabaud is the world’s biggest inland lake regatta, running the length of Lake Geneva, and Hublot is celebrating its eighth consecutive year as official timekeeper, with a brand new version of its 45mm Classic Fusion Chronograph, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud. Hublot knows how to pluck at our heartstrings, with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The dark panache of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces the Alain Silberstein Le Triptyque
Having debuted the first Alain Silberstein collaboration two years ago, Louis Erard is now back with a trio of watches conceived by the designer known for his Bauhaus-inspired, offbeat style – the Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. Featuring a titanium case with unusual fixed lugs that form a frame, the watches are rendered in Mr Silberstein’s recognisable style made up of geometric shapes and primary colours. The three are essentially Mr Silberstein’s interpretation of the traditionally-styled Excellence Triptych that Louis Erard debuted last year. Available individually or in a box set accompanied by a Silberstein NFT artwork, the watches are priced affordably, starting at CHF3,500 for the time-and-date and rising to just CHF4,500 for the single-button chronograph. Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein II Initial thoughts The Alain Silberstein triptych is easy to like. The watches have a distinctive, cheery style while being accessible in price. They are simple in construction and finish – the movements, for instance, are reliable but not much to look at – but appropriate for the price and still good value. Although the design is entirely new, the case retains the character of Alain Silberstein’s original timepieces, as do the dials. That said, the shape of the hands doesn’t help legibility so it takes a while to read the time. And although La Semaine is the base model in the line up, it has the bonus feature of Mr Silberstein’s amusi...
Revolution
Trailblazers: German Independent Watchmakers
Marco Lang, Stefan Kudoke, Dirk Dornblüth and Jochen Benzinger are blazing a trail and earning the respect of their peers and admiration from watch collectors around the globe.
Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 20th Anniversary Featuring One Mainspring, One Differential, Two Geartrains, And Two Remontoire d’Egalité Escapements
Launched in 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance was the first wristwatch with a resonance mechanism and it catapulted F.P. Journe into the major leagues. This latest model in celebration of its 20th anniversary is an entirely new piece based on the resonance phenomenon that now incorporates a larger single mainspring (the original had two mainsprings) with a differential driving the two going trains and a pair of remontoire d’égalité escapements.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ - Reprise
A good friend of GaryG's owns a cream-dialed Reference 2526, and Gary has often admired it over the years but hadn’t really understood the role that the 2526 plays in Patek Philippe’s history until talking with him and other watch pals and doing some late-night online research. Read on to learn why he bought this special "Gobbi Milano" edition from 1954 in an exciting spur of a moment.
Revolution
Wei Koh’s Favourite Independent Brands and the People Behind Them
Wei’s love of independent watchmaking sparked his friendships with some of the watch industry’s kindest and most genuine individuals.
Revolution
Introducing the Bvlgari Octo Tattoo Aria
Wei Koh speaks with Laurent Picciotto, founding owner of Chronopassion in Paris, and one of the most influential personalities in contemporary watchmaking; Mo Coppoletta, a London-based aesthete renowned for his artistic tattooing; Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director of Bvlgari on the now sold out limited edition of 10 pieces, the Octo Finissimo Tattoo Aria.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Gradient Blue “Tuna” 1000 m Diver
One of Seiko’s pioneering dive watches, the “Tuna” ref. 6159-7010 was launched in 1975 as an automatic, titanium-case diver with the greatest depth rating Seiko could muster at the time, an impressive 600 m. And in 1986, Seiko upped its game with the 1000 m “Golden Tuna” ref. 7C46-7009/7010, a quartz watch that got its nickname from the gold-coated titanium inner case. With this year being the 35th anniversary of the “Golden Tuna” 1000 m, Seiko has announced a commemorative model that’s an essentially a dressed up version of the vintage original. The Seiko Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver’s 35th Anniversary Limited Edition retains the iconic shrouded case in titanium and ceramic and the same, exceptionally robust quartz movement found in the original. The key design feature of the anniversary model, however, is the gradient blue dial that’s dark blue on the upper half of the dial and fades downwards into black, evoking the depths of the sea. At the same time, the gilded details of the original have been reduced, leaving the gold plating for just screws that secure the shroud as well as the buckle. Initial thoughts The “Tuna” – in all its myriad variations – is an attractive, both for its distinctive style and its legit professional-diver heritage. More notable is the fact that the most basic “Tuna” starts at just a few hundred dollars – though the entry-level models are not true dive instruments – making the design relatively wallet-friendl...