Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,201 articles · 291 videos found · page 103 of 117

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ237 & SBGJ239 are two of the boldest, and best looking steel sports watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ237 & Aug 15, 2020

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ237 & SBGJ239 are two of the boldest, and best looking steel sports watches of 2020

Editor’s note: When I first saw this video in the middle of last week, I hit the team WhatsApp message thread with a vengeance. Omitting some more colourful language, the gist was: “I am mind blown by these GMTs, they can’t possibly look as good in the metal as they do in this video?” Both … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ237 & SBGJ239 are two of the boldest, and best looking steel sports watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nature Aug 14, 2020

5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for)

Is your feed currently flooded with the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” Exhibition in New York City? There’s a reason for that. Taking place Downtown in the SoHo area, in partnership with Watches of Switzerland, this event has completely raised the bar for watch pop-ups. As thoughtful in design as the watches themselves, the exhibition … ContinuedThe post 5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Announcing the SJX Horological Anthology Volume I – Tudor [CLOSED] SJX Watches
Tudor [CLOSED] I am happy Aug 14, 2020

Announcing the SJX Horological Anthology Volume I – Tudor [CLOSED]

I am happy to announce Volume I of A Horological Anthology by SJX is finally complete. As some of you would know from a couple of hints on Instagram, I’ve been working on the first-ever print publication by SJX – a book dedicated to Tudor. A project that began in late 2018, Volume I is a hardbound volume that delves into Tudor’s history, notable timepieces, and most crucially – the a detailed look at the brand’s factory in Geneva. [All copies are gone. Thank you for the overwhelming interest.] Behind the curtain Tudor caught my attention long before the project began, specifically in 2010 when the Heritage Chronograph was launched. Before that, for as long as I could remember, the brand offered solid watches with little allure. But the Heritage Chronograph marked a turning point for Tudor, which then embarked on a gradual but radical transformation into something entirely more exciting. But more significant than the smartly retro designs – especially for me as an industry observer – was the brand’s shift to proprietary movements (which are now produced by Tudor-owned specialist Kenissi) without upping prices much. That remains pretty much an unrivalled accomplishment in the industry. How did Tudor do it? The answer was the starting point of Volume I, which involved several visits to Tudor in Geneva, giving me a fascinating peek into the brand’s watchmaking facility and archives. I came away deeply impressed by the extreme attention to quality in every...

Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review Aug 13, 2020

Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review

Since its introduction to market in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer has been a hallmark of not only Breitling as a brand, but the luxury watch industry at large. When one thinks of pilots watches, the Breitling Navitimer is principal amongst those thoughts. Traditionally the Navitimer is a large, bold timepiece, designed for not only legibility but practicality.  It is the principal purpose of the Navitimer that it be practical in almost any aviation endeavour. To achieve its purpose, Breitling equipped the Navitimer with its signature slide rule bezel. The slide rule bezel is the watches bi-directional rotating bezel, traditionally adorned with a number of mathematical conversion scales which, when used in conjunction with the watches other signature function, a chronograph, is able to decipher a variety of equations useful to Pilots prior to electronic monitoring devices becoming commonplace in cockpits.  So when Breitling launched the paired down Navitimer 35 as part of their ground-breaking digital launch earlier in 2020, it would be fair to say that the new chronograph-less timepiece left me with some reservations. Firstly, the elephant in the room, this is the first ever 35mm mechanical Navitimer that the brand has launched. It shows the brands commitment to trimming the diameter of its timepieces, and its push into smaller wristed markets. This may seem like a good thing in a vacuum, however, instead of leaning into the size down, Breitling market the Navitimer 35 a...

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm Aug 11, 2020

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm

One of the longest-lived models in the Ulysse Nardin line up, the Marine is modelled on vintage marine chronometers, the precision clocks in gimballed boxes found on ships of old. Originally introduced in 1996 as the Marine Chronometer 1846, the watch was one of the brand’s signature models during the tenure of former owner Rolf Schnyder, a larger than life entrepreneur who made Ulysse Nardin (UN) a presence in contemporary watchmaking. Several generations later, the design is now found on an entry-level model that is surprisingly accomplished despite being quite affordable, the Marine Torpilleur 42 mm. (NB: The version pictured here is in rose gold and naturally costs more; the steel model is priced under US$7,000.) Initial thoughts The Marine Torpilleur is an interesting proposition because it’s a fairly thin sports, or at least sporty, watch that has an obviously classical design that still manages to be functional. It manages that because the design is based the marine chronometer, a classical yet functional instrument. And the Marine Torpilleur is powered by the excellent, in-house UN-118 movement, while being priced at a little under US$7,000 in steel. That sets it apart from most watches in the same price segment, because the Marine Torpilleur has a competent dial and case, but an excellent movement. So from a technical perspective, it is a strong value-buy. The watch is largish but slim, with a dial that’s essentially a replica of a marine chronometer di...

Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Hands-on Review Aug 6, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Hands-on Review

Innovation is a word that is symbolic of the famous Swiss watch brand Ulysse Nardin. The brand has created some fantastic movements as well as designs that defy belief. A true testament to this is Ulysse Nardin’s Skeleton X model. Released back in 2019, the Skeleton X model belongs to Ulysse Nardin’s Executive collection. A collection which has been disrupting the watchmaking industry, with timepieces inspired by the sea.  The Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X comes in Titanium, Titanium Black, Rose Gold, and Carbonium case design, with all of them having the same skeleton dial design and movement. It does also come in two sizes; a 42mm and 43mm case size.  Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X – 42mm Case We have our hands on the 42mm Skeleton X in titanium black DLC. Ulysse Nardin has drawn inspiration from the letter X for the design of the skeleton dial. As the brand put it themselves “more than a means, exploring has become Ulysse Nardin’s motivation. The X-factor is the answer: X like an adventure, X like our deepest desires, X for the unknown, X for what’s forbidden, bold and exciting.” The hour indices at 1 o’clock, 5 o’clock, 7 o’clock and 11 o’clock are partially connected to form the “X” shape.  The hour indices at 1 o’clock, 5 o’clock, 7 o’clock and 11 o’clock are partially connected to form the “X” shape The open-worked dial on the Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X takes skeletonisation to new heights. Only the bare necessities are left on the moveme...

Hermès Arceau Harnais Français Remix: Colorful Horseplay Quill & Pad
Hermes Aug 3, 2020

Hermès Arceau Harnais Français Remix: Colorful Horseplay

For the Hermès Arceau Harnais Français Remix, Hermès’ watch designers found inspiration in a pair of beautifully harnessed horses that formed the centerpiece of a silk scarf designed by Hugo Grykar, who served as the brand's in-house designer from the 1940s until 1959. The dial is engraved Limoges porcelain painstakingly decorated with colorful oven-fired enamel. And the result is a wearable work of art!

Pandemic Truths – Shellman’s Yasuhiro Kojima SJX Watches
Aug 3, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Shellman’s Yasuhiro Kojima

One of the world’s most venerable retailers of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman in Ginza (pictured above) has long been a destination for horologically-inclined visitors to Tokyo. Shellman was founded in 1971 by Yoshi Isogai – the company name is a play on his last name, which loosely translates as “beach shellfish” – and is probably best known as the Japanese agent for Philippe Dufour and selling over half of the 200 first-run Simplicity watches. Two years ago Shellman was acquired by Komehyo, a publicly-listed merchant that has taken the business of selling pre-owned luxury goods to a whole new level with spacious, sharply-appointed stores offering items in stellar condition. Shellman is now the specialist-watch retail division of Komehyo, with six stores in Tokyo – including outposts in the city’s most prestigious department stores – and a diverse stable of independent watch brands, including Atelier de Chronometrie, Habring2, and Kudoke. It’s run by Yasuhiro Kojima, a 15-year veteran of Komehyo’s watch department who joined Shellman shortly after the acquisition. We caught up with Mr Kojima recently to discuss the state of the business, especially in light of the pandemic. Yasuhiro Kojima. Photo – Shellman The interview has been edited for clarity and length. What does your reopening look like? We take basic measures such as hand sanitisation before entering the store, measuring body temperature when entering the store, i...

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Time+Tide
Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Jul 30, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition

The Longines Record Collection is an important pillar of the brand today, representing the clean classicism that is embodied by the brand. The Heritage Collection is popular with the vintage enthusiast, just as the Sport Collection is a favourite of the adventurous type, and the Record Collection is designed to be an everyday companion and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; and Massena Lab Introduce the T-Rex Bronze SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduce Jul 30, 2020

MB&F; and Massena Lab Introduce the T-Rex Bronze

Massena Lab was founded by watch industry veteran William Rohr – who is better known by the pseudonym William Massena – in 2018, with the purpose of collaborating with notable independent watchmakers, and perhaps one day make its own watches. Having made its debut with Habring2 , Massena Lab has just announced the T-Rex Bronze, a 15-piece variant of the quirky MB&F; table clock launched last year. Best described as a hand-blown Murano glass eyeball inside a bronze socket with legs, the T-Rex is made by L’Epee 1839, who is also responsible for all of MB&F;’s other clocks. Initial thoughts The T-Rex is an offbeat, statement piece for the desk, but powered by old-school mechanics – a key-wound, eight-day movement made by L’Epee 1839, a clockmaker founded in, well, 1839. That blend of contemporary creative and classic mechanics makes it cool. But the Massena Lab edition is a departure from the usual MB&F; clock style, which is dominated by metallic silver or black, resulting in a highly mechanical look. The Massena Lab T-Rex replaces the steel of the original version for frosted bronze and “aged” feet, giving the clock a striking, steampunk aesthetic. Permanent patina Standing a little under 27 cm high, the T-Rex weighs about 2 kg. According to MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser, the form was inspired by a bipedal Christmas ornament on his desk. Freelance watch designer Maximilian Maertens then created the clock, relying on images of an actual Tyrannosaurus Rex to d...

INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB Time+Tide
Massena Lab How can Jul 30, 2020

INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB

How can a table clock be desirable? My thought process is well on the way to becoming coherent, meaning Sellable To The Wife. She has a background as a buyer in the oil business, so I can’t tell her that the need for a USD$27,000 non-wearable time piece is driven by desire.  The title of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet Time+Tide
Bulgari s two worlds meet Jul 28, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet

Bulgari has, for more than a century, been regarded as one of the finest luxury jewellery makers on this blue marble we call earth. Their expertise, attention to detail, passion and visionary design has resulted in some of the most stunning pieces of jewellery and objet d’art imaginable. As such, throughout the 20th century, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe vs Armin Strom vs Jul 26, 2020

Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each

Many people believe resonance to be very rare, when in fact every single timekeeping device (yes, even quartz) is a resonant mechanism. But clocks and watches featuring resonance as we generally understand it in watchmaking are few and far between. In the last few decades, less than a handful of highly skilled watchmakers have taken up the challenge of creating a resonance watch. Here, Joshua Munchow looks at the pros and cons of the different approaches taken by the three leaders in this technology.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk” Submariner Jul 25, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids

The first time I held the Seiko Prospex SNR045J in my hands, I laughed, turned to my left, and said to Deputy Editor Nick Kenyon, “What on earth is this?” To describe the limited edition dive watch as evocative is more than an understatement – it conjures up many, many thoughts in my mind, scrambles … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner? Time+Tide
Omega Planet Ocean Vs Jul 20, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner?

Since 1948, Omega have been perfecting their formula for conquering the sea. What began as a splash-proof dress watch, quickly spiralled into a race for innovation amongst Switzerland’s finest as to who could plunge the deepest depths and still tell the time. The Seamaster line is Omega’s crown jewel in technical achievement and design, with … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Play it cool: the rules of “stealth bling” and what they mean for your watch Time+Tide
Jul 17, 2020

Play it cool: the rules of “stealth bling” and what they mean for your watch

“To be truly elegant one should not be noticed.” So said Beau Brummell, who despite ultimately dying as a syphilitic loon, is still regarded as the biggest single influence on contemporary men’s style. This recognition stems, in part, from Brummell creating the forerunner to the modern suit. But equally significant was his insistence that dressing … ContinuedThe post Play it cool: the rules of “stealth bling” and what they mean for your watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jul 17, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red

H. Moser & Cie. debuted its inaugural sporty watch in 2015 with the Pioneer Centre Seconds (and followed up recently with the even more sporty Streamliner). Now Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red with a red fumé dial joins the line up. Both the colour and name are inspired by the original Swiss Mad watch of 2017, which took its colours from the Swiss national flag. Initial thoughts As is typical of Moser’s fumé finish, the dial is immediately gripping. The graduated, smoked finish results in a colour that varies in shade depending on lighting and perspective, which adds a lot of visual appeal. Though graduated-colour dials were not invented by Moser, it has become synonymous with the brand. Moser has presented fumé dials in green and many shades of blue, but bold red finish is perhaps the most enticing to date. Although the Pioneer is technically a sports watch, the elegant styling of the dial does not translate well onto such the large, almost-43 mm case, which definitely wears and looks large on the wrist. I would have preferred a case of say, 38 mm, large enough to be a sports watch, while still complimenting the dial. Minimalism While the colour is striking, the watch itself is minimalist and no-frills in the usual Moser style, displaying only the time without any superfluous elements on the dial. Still, the dial manages to incorporate several details that add to the appeal, including faceted markers, open-worked hands, and luminous dots on the flange. De...

A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets Jul 16, 2020

A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on

Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch of 2020 didn’t go down quite as well as the complicated models that have followed this week to practically unanimous praise. By contrast, the Calatrava Ref.6007A-001, limited to just 1000 pieces and made to celebrate the legacy brand’s new manufacture was met with many more brickbats than bouquets. Why? Well, according … ContinuedThe post A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko SBGM221 review WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko SBGM221 review Jul 16, 2020

Grand Seiko SBGM221 review

The nature of time.  At first glance, the phrase reads as if some form of pseudo philosophical jargon, the kind of slogan born in the Grand Seiko PR departments internship program. That is, until you hold a Grand Seiko in your hands, until you feel the piece and experience the brands physical manifestation of their philosophy. For the past week or so, I have been taking a look at the Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT. A watch from the Elegance line of Grand Seiko, and for that week I have found myself both enamoured and underwhelmed by the nature of this timepiece. As a brand, Grand Seiko prides itself in their craftsmanship, they have been heralded for the famed Ziratsu polish, and admired for the intricacy and complexity of their dials. So it should be noted right away, the finishing and construction of the SBGM221 is first class. The watch has clearly been held to a very high standard during production, nothing is out of place, nothing is even remotely undercooked. The SBGM221 spans a precise 39.5mm in diameter by an equally precise 13.7mm thick. Lug to lug the watch measures 46.3mm, this is achieved by the use of dramatically yet elegantly down curving lugs which hug the piece on to your wrist. I have a wrist size of 17.5cm and found the piece was right in the sweet spot of comfort for me personally, the watch could comfortably be worn down to as little as 15cm due primarily to the curvature of the lugs.  The case of the SBGM221 is where I found the most wonder within the watc...

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020 SJX Watches
Panerai suffered from widespread store Jul 16, 2020

Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020

Just days after the Swatch Group posted dismal half-year results, Richemont reported predictably poor sales for its first quarter, with revenue falling 47% to €1.99 billion compared to a year earlier. Like its rival the Swatch Group, Richemont was hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. The owner of almost two dozen watch and jewellery brands, including Cartier, IWC and Panerai, suffered from widespread store and distribution centre closures, a worldwide halt in tourism, and dampened consumer interest in many of markets, although China was a bright spot. Degrees of resilience The group’s business across the world was affected to varying degrees from region to region, depending on a combination of factors, namely the duration of closures, tourist spending, and spending of the domestic buyers. Although Richemont reported double-digit sales declines across all regions, distribution channels and business areas, the decreases were less pronounced in the Middle East, Africa, and Asia Pacific – the latter benefitted from a 47% year-on-year growth in sales in China, which exited its lockdown earlier than the rest of the world. China’s performance helped keep sales in the Asia Pacific resilient, to a degree. Sales in the region decreased by 29% at actual exchange rates to €277m, declining in all Asian markets, except China. Amongst the hardest hit were Japan and the Americas, where sales dropped 62% and 60% respectively due to widespread closure. The 2020 Cartier Privé Tank...

Renaissance Man Aldis Hodge is appointed to America’s oldest watchmaking guild HSNY Time+Tide
Jul 14, 2020

Renaissance Man Aldis Hodge is appointed to America’s oldest watchmaking guild HSNY

One of the brightest and most dynamic minds in the world of watchmaking, Aldis Hodge, has been appointed as a Trustee of the Horological Society of New York today. His is a name that should be well known to Time+Tide readers, through his interview with Andrew McUtchen in the latest edition of NOW Magazine (of … ContinuedThe post Renaissance Man Aldis Hodge is appointed to America’s oldest watchmaking guild HSNY appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205G-013 Deployant
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref 5205G-013 Jul 13, 2020

Review: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205G-013

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205G-013 Patek Philippe is widely regarded as one of the most prestigious watchmaking firms today. This much deserved reputation is thanks – in no small part – to its rich, productive history. The manufacture not only boasts a long list of distinguished patrons, it is also responsible for numerous inventionsRead More

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Jul 13, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT

A star of contemporary watchmaking as a result of its consistent innovation in unusual, lightweight materials, Richard Mille watches have a unique style that is instantly recognisable. A bestseller that’s arguably the brand’s signature watch, the  RM 11 is large, technical-looking, and now in its fifth generation. The RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT is the latest to join the RM 11 line-up, which was first launched over a decade now but regularly face-lifted. Limited to 140 pieces and powered by the same RMAC3 calibre found in its predecessors, the RM 11-05 continues Richard Mille’s material-centric design with a case in grey cermet. Initial thoughts Richard Mille watches are unfailing bold, and often extravagant; the RM 11-05 sticks to that formula and is immediately identifiable. It is a modest, incremental change over earlier RM 11 variants, so it doesn’t offer substantial novelty. But for a fan of the brand and its trademark style, it is very much the traditional Richard Mille look and feel. Blending metal and ceramic The RM 11-05 is novel in its case material – surprising since the brand seems to have used every conceivable modern material – which is grey cermet case, a first for Richard Mille. A contraction of ceramic and metal, cermet is a composite of ceramic and metal alloy, resulting in a material that combines the properties of the two. Cermet is more commonly employed in  ballistic protection and aerospace components. Although the m...

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph Jul 11, 2020

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph is arguably the most captivating piece in the new Master Control series. The case is sharper than before in finishing, with more straight edges as opposed to rounded sides. Accompanied with the easily patinated strap, there is a certain sportiness to the otherwise classical watch. While the triple calendar may be seen as a budget calendar, the overall merit to the watch is its versatility.

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport Jul 10, 2020

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes

Much like a car manufacturer does when it designs a brand new engine, TAG Heuer are making sure that their flagship self-winding chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, finds its way into every chrono they’ve released this year. And just days after letting us know that their three in-demand limited edition chronographs equipped with the … ContinuedThe post The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Desert Island Dials with Wei Koh Revolution
Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Jul 10, 2020

Desert Island Dials with Wei Koh

In episode nine of Ross Povey’s Zoom video interview series, “Desert Island Dials,” where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island, this time we our own Wei Koh. Wei talks about several watches from his personal collection that many of us may be familiar with as well as his latest pickup, the Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Blue.

Omega Introduces the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm with Ceramic Bezels SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jul 9, 2020

Omega Introduces the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm with Ceramic Bezels

One of the longest-lived models in the Omega line up, the Constellation with its characteristic “claw” bezel made its debut in 1982 as the Constellation Manhattan. Still looking like a 1980s design many years after that, the collection was face-lifted this year and given a smart new look that retained all of the key elements but with tighter, more modern lines. Now Omega has just taken the covers off the flagship men’s model, the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm that features an unusual combination of a metal case, polished ceramic bezel, and an integrated strap or bracelet. Initial thoughts Offered in a variety of striking dial and bezels combinations – with the red gold and blue ceramic being the most striking – the latest Constellation is the most noteworthy of any recent model. Despite the number of iterations, each model has a cohesive look with all the elements complementing each other. My favourite is undoubtedly the steel version with a irregularly textured dial thats adds visual appeal and intricacy compared to its counterparts with simpler dial finishes. Regardless of iteration, the new Constellation also has a slightly sporty look that is appealing, unlike earlier attempts at a sporty Constellations – like the chunky Constellation Double Eagle – that fell flat. Overall its a good-looking but affordable luxury-sports watch in steel And it does look much better in 18k gold, but then it costs three times as much. Shiny ceramic What makes them special a...

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe Parmigiani Jul 8, 2020

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection

Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...