Hodinkee
Introducing: The Grand Seiko x Watches of Switzerland Group Toge Special Edition SBGM241 (Live Pics & Pricing)
A new GMT with a British Racing Green Mount Iwate dial.
Results for Louis Moinet
3,202 articles · 212 videos found · page 103 of 114
Hodinkee
Two Broke Watch Snobs
CWC 1983 Quartz Royal Navy Diver Review
In my mind, this is the best, no-nonsense quartz dive watch you can buy today and the easiest gateway to the wide world of British military watch history.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Briston Watches & the Clubmaster Diver
Editor’s note: It’s somehow Monday again, and while that would normally mean feelings of malaise and discontent, since this pandemic shifted into top gear and lockdowns now rule the lay of the land, Mondayitis isn’t really a thing anymore. Which is good, because the start of the working week also means it’s Micro Monday, and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Briston Watches & the Clubmaster Diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The thin and the bling: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept and Piaget Limelight
This year, Piaget has focused on the two strengths that most clearly define the Maison: on one hand, ultra-thin men’s watches (taken to their most technically demanding extreme) and on the other, boldly designed and extravagantly gem-set women’s watches. Altiplano Ultimate Concept Nobody could reasonably dispute that this insanely thin new watch is quite mind-blowing. … ContinuedThe post The thin and the bling: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept and Piaget Limelight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève
When applied to watches, “bespoke” brings to mind the ultra-complicated timepieces made for famous historical figures like James W. Packard and Henry Graves Jr., who each commissioned a succession of one-off watches that pushed the technical boundaries of watchmaking in the early decades of the 20th century. One of those watches, the landmark Patek Philippe “Supercomplication” made for Graves, long held the title of most-expensive-watch ever sold. In the modern day, watchmakers continue to create unique watches. Patek Philippe does it quietly for its best clients, while Vacheron Constantin is more public with its Atelier Cabinotiers department that specialises in customised timepieces. Similarly, artisanal independent watchmakers like Voutilainen often accept commissions. But as a collector, how easy is it to dip your toes into the waters of bespoke or custom watchmaking? This is my maiden experience with such watches, which started at Andersen Geneve some six years ago. Svend at work Industrial vs. artisanal I first wanted to get involved in the creation of a custom watch in 2014. I already knew then it could not merely be changing colours on the dial or hands, neither could it be an engraved monogram. What I wanted was a truly unique world-time watch with a Louis Cottier-type mechanism. At the same time, I had a certain budget in mind, so I approached independent watchmakers that made watches I liked, but with steel cases. Somewhat naively, I thought adding a ti...
Quill & Pad
French Champagne House Ruinart Collaborates With British Artist David Shrigley For Its Annual Carte Blanche Art Commission
David Shrigley is not your conventional artist. He says what’s on his mind without beating around the bush. Not taking himself seriously while opening our eyes to the bigger picture is why French champagne house Ruinart commissioned the 51-year-old artist to present the champagne house in a new light as its 2020 carte blanche artist,
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus In Machina
This piece-unique minute repeater is not for shrinking violets.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music”
Just revealed at Watches & Wonders 2020, the Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Grand Complication “Ode to Music” is the latest chiming watch to emerge from Ateliers Cabinotiers, Vacheron Constantin’s dedicated department for commissions and ambitious unique pieces that showcase the brand’s technical as well as artisanal skills. If the watch looks familiar, that’s because it is based on the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, the most complicated wristwatch ever created by Vacheron Constantin at the time of its launch in 2017, but more importantly, the most comprehensive astronomical complication wristwatch ever made. The new Ode to Music retains all of its astronomical prowess, but replaces the tourbillon with a minute repeater, while omitting the tide indicator and power reserve display. Rebuilt grand comp As a result, the Ode to Music retains the same astronomical display module but is actually constructed on an entirely different base movement from the Celestia. While the Celestia relied on a base movement with a tourbillon and six barrels, the Ode to Music utilises the minute repeating cal. 1731, a wide but ultra-thin movement measuring just 3.9 mm high. Comprising a total of 600 parts, the resulting cal. 1731M820 is hand-wound, with a frequency of 3Hz and a 60-hour power reserve on a single barrel. Because of the thinner base movement, the Ode to Music clocks in at a relatively svelte 12.45 mm high, versus 13.6 mm for the Celestia. ...
Deployant
New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties for 2020 with Editorial commentary
Vacheron Constantin Novelties for 2020 For 2020, Vacheron Constantin highlights iconic creations and its watchmaking savoir-faire with new additions to the Traditionnelle and Fiftysix collection, rare crafts and one-of-a-kind creations from the Les Cabinotiers collection, and displaying sporty elegance with extreme technical feats from the Overseas collection. Traditionelle Tourbillon & Traditionelle Tourbillon Jewellery Vacheron ConstantinRead More
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph “Tempo”
Three years after the debut of Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication boasting 23 complications, Vacheron Constantin has topped its own achievement at Watches & Wonders 2020 by launching Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph “Tempo”. Without going into the minefield of what counts as a complication; the new Grand Complication incorporates 24 complications, if each function counts as one – with everything displayed on a massive, two-faced case. A reversible giant In addition to showing the time, the Grand Complication includes a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph as well as a number of astronomical indications including equation of time, sunrise and sunset times, plus a retrograde moon phase. The reverse face Unsurprisingly, the case is enormous – 50 mm wide and 21 mm high. But it is intriguingly designed – perfectly symmetrical in profile, the case allows the watch to be worn with either side facing up thanks to a quick-release strap. Swapping faces is a matter of unlatching the strap, flipping the watch over, and reinstalling the strap. Time, chronograph and perpetual calendar on the front; tourbillon, running Equation of Time, retrograde moon phase and times for sunrise and sunset on the back Mechanical layer cake Inside is the cal. 2756, which is derived from the cal. 2755, a movement first found in the Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 grand complication that has since been iterated ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cartier Santos-Dumont Le Brésil, La Baladeuse, And No. 14 Bis Limited Editions
A trio of LEs with hand-wound movements and special engravings.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock
The more watches you see, the less likely it becomes that you see something you’ve never seen before. The Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock, however, is absolutely unlike anything I’ve seen before. While the case shape and dial layout has been seen, in different references within the Laureato collection, the eye-catching element of this watch is the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Watches & Wonders to Debut Online Starting April 25
Cancelled because of the COVID-19 coronavirus pandemic, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was due to take place in Geneva but will now go online starting April 25, 2020 at 12:00 pm CET (or 6:00 am in New York, 6:00 pm in Hong Kong and Singapore), where most of the year’s new watches will be revealed. Once known as SIHH, W&W; was meant to take place in the Palexpo convention centre in Geneva. Now the 30 brands that would have taken part in the event will be presenting their wares on a brand-new W&W; website, a project that has been completed in barely a month. Amongst the exhibiting brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, Hermes, IWC and Panerai, as well as independent brands like Ressence and H. Moser & Cie. Three cheers for a long, long time ago, when W&W; was actually real The virtual fair will showcase most of the year’s new launches, accompanied by videos, articles and other content. And the April 25 opening is just part one of W&W;, with the second part slated to arrive in summer 2020, where additional products will be launch, along with “strategic e-commerce partnerships”. Ambitious as it is, being the first large-scale virtual “fair”, this may be the first and final instalment of W&W;, given that Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard and Chanel have withdrawn from Baselworld and will be joining the new, as-yet unnamed fair in Geneva in April next year that will substitute W&W;. The virtual W&W; will go live on April 25 at Watchesandwonders.com. You’ll find all of the new la...
Quill & Pad
Fabergé Pearl Egg: The First Imperial-Class Egg In Nearly 100 Years – Reprise
Many have heard of the famous Fabergé eggs. But why are they so famous? The answer surely lies in where the eggs came from. Celebrating its “rebirth” at Baselworld 2015, Fabergé introduced the first egg of the new era as a unique piece: the incredible Pearl Egg, “the first egg created in the ‘imperial class' since 1917.”
Time+Tide
The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it
Let’s not mince words. Watch and carmakers have been jointly responsible for some very, very lazy collaborative timepieces. I won’t pick on too many examples … but to say that some of Ferrari’s early efforts with Panerai and Girard-Perregaux lacked imagination would be a gross understatement. The Prancing Horse turned it around though – Maranello’s latest … ContinuedThe post The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Bremont Martin-Baker II Review
INTRODUCTION There is a story that is Bremont. One of hardship and loss. One of innovation and perseverance. A young brand, perhaps, in an industry filled with centuries-old maisons, but perhaps by virtue of this very fact, Bremont is not burdened by legacy approaches and is boldly pushing forward to create timepieces of exceptional character and quality in house, at their own workshop in Henley-on-Thames. Aviation is the defining theme for the company, and it shows in their watches, their partnerships, and in the love of flight of brothers-founders Nick and Giles English. I’ve had the pleasure of recently acquiring the distinctive MBII watch, and today I am glad to be sharing some words about my experience, feelings, and thoughts on it with you. Nick and Giles love for aviation has heavily influenced Bremont’s direction, from it’s branding to partnerships. And, although Bremont has since expanded beyond the category, Pilots watches are still very much the essence of the brand, remaining its core focus since launch. Over a decade ago, Bremont was approached by aviation company Martin-Baker, who supply over 70% of the world’s air forces with ejection seats for their fighter jets, with collaboration in mind. In 2010 these discussions led to the development of the Martin-Baker (MB) range, which included the MBI, a model reserved solely for Martin-Baker ejectees. Now a decade into production, the MB range is quintessentially Bremont, and their most popular collection...
Quill & Pad
Omega, Patek Philippe, And Jaeger-LeCoultre: A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage – Reprise
To my longtime friends in the watch hobby, and perhaps to regular readers here as well, the mention of my name may conjure up a number of connotations: patron of the independents, fan of A. Lange & Söhne, admirer of Patek Philippe grand complications, and longtime customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre, among other characterizations more or less favorable. But vintage?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hamtun H2 Kraken Review – A Wild Kickstarter Success Delivers….But Not Without Labor Pain
By any measure, the Kickstarter campaign of the Hamtun H2 titanium dive watch was a wild success. Fully funded in less than 30 seconds, the pledges ultimately exceeded $550,000 with 1,300 enthusiastic backers in the queue...
Time+Tide
“If you don’t have a Rolex by the time you reach 50, then you have clearly failed in your life.” Remembering Sarkozy, the ‘Bling-Bling’ president
In the lead-up to the 2012 presidential election, France’s leader Nicolas Sarkozy, was preparing to deliver a campaign speech in Paris. Striding through the heaving crowd in Place de la Concorde, Sarkozy grinned and shook the hands of his cheering supporters. But halfway along, a realisation flashed through his mind. Without stopping, he whipped off … ContinuedThe post “If you don’t have a Rolex by the time you reach 50, then you have clearly failed in your life.” Remembering Sarkozy, the ‘Bling-Bling’ president appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB149J
Dive watches have come a very long way in 55 years. It was 1965 when Seiko first dipped their toe into the waters of serious dive watches when they released the Seiko automatic 6217 62MAS, water resistant to 150m. Featuring large luminous hands and hour markers, a rotating dive 60-minute bezel and a rubber strap, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB149J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
11 Ugly Vintage Watches: The 70s Called… and They Want Nothing to Do With Your Watch
Overwhelmed Swiss factory guy 1: “Hold up, why is there a tachymeter scale if half the numbers are gone?” Overwhelmed Swiss factory guy 2: “Because of le quartz, man. Don’t ask questions. Do you want to lose your job?!”
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Feat. Celebrity Death Match, Notorious Robberies and Every Watch Tells A Story returns!
Good news is about as rare these days as a Hodinkee Limited Edition, especially the cache of their Limited Editions they released at retail this week as a goodwill gesture. But we do have some to make your Friday feel a little less surreal. Two months after the ‘Watch & Act!’ Auction had its glorious … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Feat. Celebrity Death Match, Notorious Robberies and Every Watch Tells A Story returns! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: MB&F; HM10 Bulldog
MB&F; has always been about pushing the boundaries of aesthetic and conceptual creativity in watchmaking, lassoing in everything from pop culture to science fiction to build its Horological Machines. Reminiscent of the HM3 Frog and HM9 Flow, the HM10 Bulldog is the tenth watch in the series and another intergalactic timekeeper reassembling a robotic animal. While MB&F; has historically been all about less-than-friendly animals, like a cyclops-chicken, luminous jellyfish, or giant spider, the HM10 is modelled on a domestic favourite (and perhaps also takes inspiration from the LM1). The design language of the HM10 is a familiar one as it borrows liberally from MB&F;’s past machines. Bulging eyes in the form of rotating displays take their cues from the HM3, while the suspended balance wheel under a high domed crystal is also found in the Legacy Machine series, and finally the mobile jaw that’s also a power reserve display brings to mind the vertical indicator on the LM1. An elaborate body It’s a complex-looking watch, so an explanation is in order. Available in either titanium, or red gold with titanium accents, the HM10 has a flat, elongated body with a protruding pair of collets for the crowns, as well as two domed sapphire crystals on the front and back to accommodate the time display and power reserve indicator respectively. At 54 mm by 45 mm, the HM10 does have a large presence – which is usually the point of a Horological Machine – but the overall shape, pa...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Taking the DOXA SUB 200 over the water, but not into it
Kayaking isn’t the sport that immediately comes to mind when you think of DOXA, given that your DOXA is most comfortable hundreds of metres under the water, not necessarily on a narrow boat above the water. But that is exactly where fellow watch writer Sophie Furley from Watchonista took two different DOXA models on quite … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Taking the DOXA SUB 200 over the water, but not into it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Welcome to Watchland, the story of the Franck Muller manufacture
From Watchland, the Genevan estate where Franck Muller is based, you are able to look out across the calm blue waters of Lake Geneva to the far bank, and in the distance gaze up at the white peak of Mont Blanc. In this postcard setting, Watchland is an open expanse of chalet-style buildings designed by … ContinuedThe post Welcome to Watchland, the story of the Franck Muller manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: A Game Of Tones
Don't worry, we didn't lose the plot: It's the Audemars Piguet Concept Supersonnerie.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ Engraved
Twenty-twenty marks the 60th year of Grand Seiko and the brand is pulling no punches with its high-end commemorative editions. Dedicated to Grand Seiko’s workshop in the town of Shizukuishi, the 60th anniversary pair of Elegance Collection Thin Dress watches both feature decorative engraving, but executed by hand and machine respectively. Located in the northern province of Iwate, Shizukuishi is a small town surrounded by mountains, including the imposing Mount Iwate, which is an active volcano. The town is home to the Shizukuishi Watch Studio, where the best mechanical Grand Seiko watches are produced (Spring Drive watches, on the other hand, are produced at Seiko-Epson’s facility in Shiojiri in Nagano province). Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ hand-engraved SBGW263 (left) and machine-engraved SBGW264 Shizukuishi, or しずく いし, translates literally as “water droplet on stone” – shizuku is “droplet” and ishi means “stone”. Legend has it that the town was founded a millennia ago when an old man living in the area heard the sound of dripping water, which originated in a cave where water from the ceiling was dripping onto the rocks below. The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Thin Dress ’60th Anniversary’ Hand Engraved (ref. SBGW263) is a nod to the ancient origin story. It featured a solid gold dial hand engraved with a motif inspired by the town’s founding. Made entirely of 18k white gold, the dial is comprised of three parts – bas...
Time+Tide
Restoring my Great-Grandfather’s Omega Seamaster
We all have those knick-knacks lying around that get forgotten. Dried-up sharpies, matchboxes, and screwdrivers are the common offenders in my household, however there had always been one outlier. A small, unassuming wristwatch had been sitting in an antique drawer for at least 20 years. Freshly into my 20s, I landed a job that meant … ContinuedThe post Restoring my Great-Grandfather’s Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Geneva-city-jet-deau.jpg)
SJX Watches
Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]
Following the cancellation of both the year’s biggest watch fairs – Baselworld and Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) – due to the COVID-19 coronavirus, a consortium of watch brands have come together to show their wares come April. The event, dubbed Geneva Watch Days, was the brainchild of Bulgari and its chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin – one of the first brands to pull out of Baselworld – and conceived with European press and retailers in mind. [Update March 24, 2020: GWD will now take place August 26-29, 2020 instead.] WWG to GWD Taking place when WWG was due to happen, April 26 to 29, Geneva Watch Days now has a line-up of brands big and small: Girard-Perregaux, Gerald Genta, Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, MB&F;, De Bethune and Urwerk. A handful more might sign on, including H. Moser & Cie. and Chopard. However, at present, none of the brands belonging to the major watchmaking conglomerates, Richemont or Swatch Group, or either of the Geneva giants, namely Rolex and Patek Philippe, has announced their participation – and are unlikely to due to the complexities of the industry. Crucially, Geneva Watch Days is not a fair per se, rather it is a series of events organised by brands in separate venues, including boutiques and hotels, but happening during the same period. Because the individual events during Geneva Watch Days are small-scale and discrete, none of them will run counter to the Swiss government’s temporary ban on events with over 1,000 people. ...
Quill & Pad
Corum Celebrating 65 Years Of Avant-Garde History In 2020 (Plus Videos)
To celebrate its 65th anniversary, Corum invited a few people to its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds to look at some lovely vintage pieces and talk about what the brand has meant to the history of watchmaking. Elizabeth Doerr shares her visit, and visuals, here.