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Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

4,409 articles · 668 videos found · page 103 of 170

Introducing – The new Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche, a.k.a the Sensu NOS Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo was defined as his Oct 2, 2024

Introducing – The new Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche, a.k.a the Sensu NOS

The brainchild of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka (also behind the return of Takano), Kurono Tokyo was defined as his vision of a more accessible take on his design language, with watches merging traditional Japanese cues and classic vintage flair. Recent introductions of the brand focused on compact, retro-inspired watches with a bit less of […]

A Collector’s Perspective: The Cartier Crash SJX Watches
Cartier Crash Sep 27, 2024

A Collector’s Perspective: The Cartier Crash

A fever dream - form that bent and curved the very idea of what a wristwatch could be. The Cartier Crash, born out of myth and mystery, is no conventional timepiece. As established notions of purpose and design in watchmaking, the Crash exists at the intersection of watchmaking and sculpture. To the uninitiated, the Crash may seem bizarre, wildly eccentric for the sake of it, but to those steeped in horology, it is an icon. For me, Crash was more than just an addition to my collection; it was the culmination of years of passion, patience, and persistence. The author and his special order Crash A product of Swinging Sixties London There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that tell stories. The Crash belongs to the latter category. Beyond its appearance, the allure of the Crash also stems from its founding myths. Introduced in 1967 by Cartier London – the jeweller was then three separate companies in Paris, New York, and the British capital – the Crash is easily the most avant-garde watch design ever produced by Cartier. Its warped, melted form defies the conventional standards that most watches adhere to, making it as much an artistic statement as a timekeeper. An example of a vintage London Crash To truly appreciate the significance of the Cartier Crash, one must delve into its history, which is almost as enigmatic as the watch itself. One popular origin story is macabre: a Cartier client wearing a Baignoire Allongée was in a car crash that damag...

First Look – The New and Colourful Louis Erard 2300 Chronograph Sport in Titanium Monochrome
Louis Erard 2300 Chronograph Sport Sep 26, 2024

First Look – The New and Colourful Louis Erard 2300 Chronograph Sport in Titanium

The La Sportive collection of chronographs, a staple in Louis Erard‘s catalogue for several years, has been rebranded to reflect the brand’s forward-looking vision – now called the 2300 collection. The name also pays homage to the postal code of La-Chaux-de-Fonds, a watchmaking centre near Le Noirmont, where Louis Erard is based. To mark this […]

Hands-On With The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs SSH159, SSH161, SSH163, And Limited SSH158 Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Sep 26, 2024

Hands-On With The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs SSH159, SSH161, SSH163, And Limited SSH158

It’s been only a few months since Seiko introduced the first Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs with the new caliber 5X83. Today, the Japanese brand unveils a quartet of chronographs powered by the same movement. The line is expanding with the standard-production SSH159, SSH161, and SSH163. Additionally, we get a titanium and ceramic limited edition, […] Visit Hands-On With The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs SSH159, SSH161, SSH163, And Limited SSH158 to read the full article.

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World Worn & Wound
Sep 24, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the second part in the new series from Andrew Canter, the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this installment, Andrew examines the invention of the balance spring, a watchmaking advancement that not only charted a path for the watch industry, but can be said to have legitimately changed the world, enabling accurate, reliable, and portable timekeeping for the first time in human history. Who actually invented it, though, is still a matter of some debate, even after 350 years.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. Prior to the Balance Spring Early watches were powered by a verge escapement which was the same type of movement used in the early clocks. The verge is the earliest known type of mechanical escapement that controlled its rate by allowing the gear train to advance at regular intervals or ‘ticks’. Verge escapements were used from the late 13th century until the mid-19th century in clocks and pocket watches. Drawing of a verge escapement (bottom) and balance wheel (top) from an early pocket watch from an encyclopaedia c.1820 In the earliest watches a plain wheel, known as the balance, was used to control the rate of going of the mechanism. There wasn’t a consistent restoring force (such as a fusee), so consequently, its period of oscillation and, hence, the rate of the timekeeper were dependent on the driving force. Oval verge escapement watch movement by William Petit, Londo...

First Look – The Titanium-Clad Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.4 Monochrome
Chopard Sep 24, 2024

First Look – The Titanium-Clad Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.4

ART IN TIME was founded in Monaco by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2019, Co-President of Chopard and President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The gallery was established with the vision of creating a unique platform for watch aficionados, curating a select group of brands representing the pinnacle of independent watchmaking. To celebrate the 5th anniversary of the […]

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References Worn & Wound
Seiko KSK” Line Grows Once Sep 23, 2024

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References

When it comes to mastering the balance between refinement and artistry, does anyone do it better than Japanese watchmakers? King Seiko’s latest additions to the KSK line-up just proved my point. These three new references – the latest from the recently reintroduced Seiko spin-off brand – are inspired by the company’s roots in Kameido, Tokyo and show not only the beauty of the region, but speak to King Seiko’s history and technical precision. Each dial is something truly unique, bringing traditional Japanese patterns with color gradients. First on the list is SJE103, which takes the deep red of regional plums and turns it into a sanguine interpretation against the dial. SJE107 is a bit more subdued, with a purple gradient and a wisteria-brand pattern that’s subtle (some motifs of nature can be a little too on-the-nose, in my opinion, but this one balances between inspiration and interpretation well). And finally, my favorite, is SJE105, which has a turtle shell pattern and a rich blue dial, inspired by the local Sumida River in Kameido. Each watch runs on Seiko’s Caliber 6L35 automatic movement, offering a 45-hour power reserve. All references measure in at 38.6mm and are crafted from stainless steel with a matching bracelet, making for a dressy option that I think fits the motifs of the dial perfectly. Like other KSK references, these watches recall classic King Seiko case lines that will certainly appeal to vintage watch aficionados. They also serve as a rem...

Affordable Travel-Time with the Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer SJX Watches
Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Sep 23, 2024

Affordable Travel-Time with the Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer

Seiko adds travel time functionality to its line of affordable dress watches with the Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447. The new Presage is part of the Craftsmanship series that sports dials decorated with traditional Japan artisanal crafts ranging from lacquer to porcelain to enamel, and features glossy urushi lacquer dial to go along with the GMT function.  A key part of Japanese culture for millennia, urushi is obtained from the lacquer tree and used for a variety of applications, ranging from kitchenware to samurai armour. Here it is applied to the dial by hand at the workshop of urushi specialist Isshu Tamura, which was also responsible for lacquer dials on past Presage models. Initial thoughts The new GMT offers a similar value proposition as past Presage Craftsmanship models: the dial is decorated by skilled artisans, a feature typically associated with more expensive watches, but the price tag remains an affordable US$1,750. And it has the added bonus of a GMT, giving it an added dimension of utility compared to most Craftsmanship models that either have calendar or power reserve functions. The only downside is the fact that it’s not a “true” GMT with an independently adjustable hour hand, but that is the case for practically all GMT watches in this price range, so it doesn’t put the Presage GMT at a disadvantage relative to the competition. Urushi dial The Presage GMT sports a dial finished in black urushi, with the gilt markings on the dial done in...

Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Registration and Programme SJX Watches
Sep 20, 2024

Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Registration and Programme

Announced a month ago, IAMWATCH is a three-day event centred on independent watchmaking that encompasses lectures, classes, and panel discussions. Taking place in Singapore from October 18 to 20 at the Edition hotel, Iamwatch has just revealed its programme for the event, which promises three full days – from breakfast to sundown drinks – of watches, watchmakers, and watch industry personalities. Entry is free but registration online is required. Boldface names attending the event include independent watchmakers Felix Baumgartner, Konstantin Chaykin, Kari Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi; watch entrepreneurs Jean-Claude Biver, Manuel Emch, Maximilian Büsser, and Jean Arnault; and auctioneers Aurel Bacs and Sam Hines. Konstantin Chaykin, Felix Baumgartner, and Rexhep Rexhepi Each day begins with a breakfast hosted by industrial notables, including Maximilian Büsser on October 19. The breakfast is followed by a full schedule, including daily lectures about history and horology by historian David Rooney, author of About Time, a history of timekeeping. Jean Arnault, Aurel Bacs, and Manuel Emch Afternoons include classes on various topics, including Jean-Claude Biver on being a watchmaking entrepreneur – a pitch perfect match of speaker and subject if there ever was one. Panel discussions take place daily as well, including one dedicated to independent watchmaking on the final day, October 20, moderated by myself with Felix Baumgartner, Kari Voutilainen, Rexhep Rexhepi ...

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Sep 20, 2024

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph

Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...

Introducing – The MIH Gaïa Series III, and a Special Guilloché 50th Anniversary Edition Monochrome
Sep 19, 2024

Introducing – The MIH Gaïa Series III, and a Special Guilloché 50th Anniversary Edition

The MIH, or Musée International d’Horlogerie (International Watchmaking Museum), is a must-see for anyone interested in the history of horology. This institution gathers a museum, a restoration workshop, and a research centre, and houses a vast collection of about 10,000 conserved objects. The year 2024 marks the 50th anniversary of the MIH’s residence in its […]

Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro” Worn & Wound
Minase Sep 19, 2024

Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro”

Minase, the independent Japanese watch brand, and our friends at watch media outlet Fratello have collaborated on a third edition of the brand’s cult favorite M-3. After versions in purple and green each of the last two years, this latest release strikes a more classic and refined tone. The new M-3 “Shiro” features a white lacquered dial and some subtle but well chosen accent colors, all with an eye toward traditional Japanese craft.  “Shiro” is Japanese for white, and in Japan is historically a sacred color symbolizing spiritual and physical purity. It’s a color that is frequently worn by Japanese Emperors, and comes up frequently in Shinto rituals and traditions. For this M-3, Minase has given the dial a weave-like texture that recalls the garments that might be worn in such rituals. The dial has been coated with Japanese lacquer, and the brand promises the result is a dynamic silvery color with plenty of depth.  Other callouts to Japanese culture include the red tipped second hand, a color that symbolizes good luck. The precise shade of red chosen for this edition, “Hinomaru,” translates roughly to “circle of the sun.” And the blue strap, according to Minase and Fratello, is a tribute to Japanese denim. Fratello and Minase see parallels in high craft denim to traditional watchmaking, noting that good denim, when taken care of, is meant to last a lifetime, just like a mechanical watch.  The original impetus for the Fratello x Minase collaborations ...

Introducing – The Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447 Monochrome
Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Sep 17, 2024

Introducing – The Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447

The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series is all about traditional crafts deeply inspired by Japanese culture. And this collection has resulted in some of the most appealing dress watches of the brand. With this collection, Seiko brings classic artistic crafts such as enamel, Arita porcelain, Urushi lacquer, and even combinations of arts such as guilloché and enamel at relatively […]

Just A Minute With The Tissot PRX Worn & Wound
Tissot PRX While Tissot Sep 13, 2024

Just A Minute With The Tissot PRX

While Tissot is a storied Swiss watchmaker, having been founded in 1880, right now they are best known for their line of sexy, 70s-inspired sports watches called PRX. A throwback to an era of bell bottoms, big cars, record players, etc… the PRXs feature an “integrated bracelet” design, meaning the case and bracelet or strap seamlessly flow into each other. A sleek-looking concept, it became the rage in the 70s, exuding a certain luxurious bravado, and had a recent resurgence. The PRX executes the concept with style to spare, all at an affordable price point. While Tissot is a storied Swiss watchmaker, having been founded in 1880, right now they are best known for their line of sexy, 70s-inspired sports watches called PRX. A throwback to an era of bell bottoms, big cars, record players, etc… the PRXs feature an “integrated bracelet” design, meaning the case and bracelet or strap seamlessly flow into each other. A sleek-looking concept, it became the rage in the 70s, exuding a certain luxurious bravado, and had a recent resurgence. The PRX executes the concept with style to spare, all at an affordable price point. The post Just A Minute With The Tissot PRX appeared first on Worn & Wound.