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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.
Rolex Submariner Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Submariner Guide Few watches Sep 19, 2023

Rolex Submariner Guide

Few watches have achieved the worldwide fame and collectibility of the Rolex Submariner, one of the very first purpose-built dive watches and the one that established the formula that so many others still emulate. Nearly every luxury divers’ watch on the market today owes some stylistic debt to the Submariner, which remains to many collectors the gold standard of the category. The Submariner’s association with James Bond, which stems from its being worn by Sean Connery in the iconic movie role, doesn’t hurt its case either. Here’s what you need to know about the Rolex Submariner and why it continues to be an industry trendsetter in the modern day. Origins: The Rolex Oyster Case While most watch historians rightly pinpoint the 1950s as the era that gave rise to the modern, purpose-built diver’s watch, Rolex began paving the way as early as the 1920s. Hans Wilsdorf, who founded Rolex in 1905 and moved its headquarters to Geneva, Switzerland in 1919, was one of the earliest and most prominent proponents of making wristwatches more waterproof. It was a challenge that had plagued watchmakers for years, ever since pocket watches began fading from common usage in favor of the wrist-worn timepieces that gained wide acceptance in the wake of World War I. Wilsdorf’s 1926 invention, the so-called Oyster case, proved to be (no pun intended) a watershed for an evolving industry. Its innovative design combined a threaded, hermetically sealed caseback and a crown that screwe...

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Seiko Adds New Enamel and Urushi Lacquer Dials to their Presage Craftsmanship Series Worn & Wound
Seiko Adds New Enamel Sep 18, 2023

Seiko Adds New Enamel and Urushi Lacquer Dials to their Presage Craftsmanship Series

Seiko has been bringing the heat (quite literally) with sophisticated and labor-intensive dials to its mid-level lines like Presage. Last week we saw a slew of releases celebrating the 110th anniversary of the Laurel, Seiko’s first watch. The headliner was the Presage SPB401 and its enamel dial. Today we see enamel and lacquer make their way to the Presage collection in the form of three new references. The changes don’t stop there, though; there’s more to these watches than new dials. In a break from the current porcelain dials in the Craftsmanship Series, the new SPB403 features a white enamel dial courtesy of Mitsuru Yokasawa and Co. The dial layout on these references has been simplified with thin stick hour markers (as opposed to thin roman numerals). This results in a more versatile watch and allows the color and material to take center stage. In a nice touch, the chapter ring is further subdivided into sixths, corresponding to the movement’s 3Hz beat rate. Of the three, the SPB403 is the most classic-looking and comes on a five link bracelet with Seiko’s super-hard coating. The SPB405 (black dial) and SPB407 (green dial) incorporate the ancient art of lacquering into the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series. Made from the sap of the Urushi tree (Rhus verniciflua, found primarily in China and Japan), Japanese lacquer is notoriously expensive and highly prized. Master Usshu Tamura and his team at Seiko have developed a method that, unlike enamel, allows the la...

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Aeronom Aero One BLK Time+Tide
Ball Watch Co but any fan Sep 18, 2023

Aeronom Aero One BLK

Industrial watch design comes up a lot when discussing brands such as Hublot and Ball Watch Co, but any fan of Rammstein can assure you that nobody does industrial like the Germans. Aeronom was founded to be brash and bold, inspired by the urban sprawls of city architecture, streetwear and hip-hop. Their first release focused … ContinuedThe post Aeronom Aero One BLK appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black

Tudor expands their FXD family today with a new regular production reference that features a black dial and bezel. The watch follows the same formula as the Marine Nationale FXD that was released in late 2021, a flat 12.7mm thick, 42mm titanium case with a fixed lug design. There are a few changes here worth noting, however, and this might just be the most approachable FXD to date. While there is no official affiliation with this watch, the latest FXD was released alongside a display of the brand’s rich history in issued watches, right next to the original Sealab I at the Man In The Sea museum in Panama City Florida.  The setting is a fitting reminder of the remarkable Sealab program, and an era when watches like this were used as indispensable tools, the same as a compass or knife. This the spirit of the FXD and even the broader Pelagos collection as a whole, and as such we’ll be putting the new watch through its paces on a dive in the Gulf of Mexico, keep an eye out for the full report from the experience coming soon. The black FXD welcomes the same bit of red text at the bottom of the dial that we saw in the Pelagos 39 released last year. It provides the same benefit here, serving to reduce the visual weight of the 4 lines of text at the bottom of the dial. The matte black dial is joined by a matte black bezel insert (no sunburst pattern here), and the bezel is the biggest departure from the original FXD. Rather than counting down, and bi-directional (features done...

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TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver

TAG Heuer has been synonymous with motorsport for decades, and they’re back with an eye-popping new edition of their classic Monaco chronograph. The Monaco is one of the cornerstones of the brand’s legendary foundation, and has been since it burst into the spotlight way back in 1969, as one of the very first automatic chronographs … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Apple Brings Updates to New Generation of Apple Watches Series 9, & Ultra 2 Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2023

Apple Brings Updates to New Generation of Apple Watches Series 9, & Ultra 2

Apple held their annual September event today, introducing new iPhones and new Apple Watch models in the process. This year, Apple is leaning heavily into environmental consciousness across all of their new products, including new straps that utilize recycled materials, as we’ve seen with increasing recency in the watch world. In addition to new Series 9 watches, Apple also introduced a second generation of their Apple Watch Ultra, with the Ultra 2. Both utilize Apple’s new home cooked silicon, the S9 SiP, a more powerful chip, allowing for a slew of new on board features that are less reliant on your connectivity status, including the ability to recognize gestures. The watches retain largely the same design across the board, so the real story is the new silicon, and the 100% carbon neutral status of the product in many configurations.  The Apple Watch has established itself as the most popular watch in the world since it was first introduced 9 years ago, and while its form factor hasn’t substantially changed over the years, it’s become far more powerful with each generation, allowing it to blossom into its own product category for Apple. I suspect we’ll see the first big design update for its 10th anniversary next year, but until then the Series 9 and Ultra 2 will look to keep the trend moving forward. The Apple Watch Ultra was introduced just last year, a rugged take on the formula which won over those of us who prefer using the Apple Watch for specific scenar...

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Marco Lang Open Sources His Movement and Constructions SJX Watches
Lang & Heyne Sep 12, 2023

Marco Lang Open Sources His Movement and Constructions

As a gifted and passionate watchmaker, Marco Lang is committed to preserving his legacy for future generations. This extraordinary commitment involves providing unrestricted access to all the construction data related to every component of his Zweigesicht-1 timepiece on his website. This open-source initiative aims to assist future watchmakers in servicing Marco’s watches for generations to come. The beginning of independence When a watchmaker, especially an independent one, makes the commitment to ensure that his creations will remain fully functional and cherished by generations to come, it truly demonstrates the depth of his devotion and altruism toward both his present and future clientele. Marco Lang embarked on his journey as an independent watchmaker when he founded his modest workshop in Dresden in 2003, in collaboration with Mirko Heyne and Lothar Zieger, which eventually became known as Lang & Heyne. In 2019, he once again chose the path of an independent watchmaker, this time working entirely on his own. He found a delicate balance between idealism and art, a topic he delves into in this article he penned for us during the year he decided to embark on this new chapter. Marco Lang in his workshop, located within his home. Photo – Marco Lang The subsequent year marked the introduction of his inaugural creation under the “Marco Lang” signature, the double-faced Zweigesicht-1, housing the remarkable calibre ml-01. The calibre ml-01 With all 18 pieces of the ...

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5 of our favourite watches available via Sotheby’s x Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned Time+Tide
Sep 11, 2023

5 of our favourite watches available via Sotheby’s x Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned

According to the Boston Consulting Group, pre-owned watch sales accounted for nearly one third of the total watch sales for the year – with pre-owned watch sales representing $22 billion of the $75 billion in watch sales for the year. Pre-owned watch sales are also projected to overtake first-hand ones by 2033 according to Bloomberg. … ContinuedThe post 5 of our favourite watches available via Sotheby’s x Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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From podium to pandemonium - Carlos Sainz chases down $500,000 Richard Mille thief Time+Tide
Richard Mille thief After delivering one Sep 10, 2023

From podium to pandemonium - Carlos Sainz chases down $500,000 Richard Mille thief

After delivering one of the drives of his career and scoring a podium in front of the Tifosi, Ferrari driver Carlos Sainz found himself in a highly uncomfortable situation just hours after the podium celebrations. With the perpetrators reportedly posing as fans waiting for a signature upon his arrival to the Armani Hotel, the three … ContinuedThe post From podium to pandemonium – Carlos Sainz chases down $500,000 Richard Mille thief appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Is Silicon Here to Stay in (Rolex) Watch Movements? - Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Sep 10, 2023

Is Silicon Here to Stay in (Rolex) Watch Movements? - Reprise

Hairsprings are miniscule. Generally no more than one centimeter in overall diameter when coiled, they are roughly 50 microns thick and 150 microns wide. Tiny they may be, but insignificant they are not. In fact, they are so significant that Rolex refers to them as “the guardians of time.” But what do silicon hairsprings bring to the table? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy explains why he went from skeptic to fan.

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Andrew picks out three new watches under $1,000 from Geneva Watch Days Time+Tide
Sep 10, 2023

Andrew picks out three new watches under $1,000 from Geneva Watch Days

While the numbers reveal many of you love luxury timepieces, there is an equal, if not larger, interest in more budget-friendly watches – this is especially true within the daily wearer segment. As much as people romanticise the idea, not everyone is comfortable getting down and dirty with a pricey watch on their wrist. While … ContinuedThe post Andrew picks out three new watches under $1,000 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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