Hodinkee
In-Depth: How The Five Time Zone Shaped Modern Watch Culture
Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet as we know them wouldn't exist without the Jacob & Co. watch that brought horology to hip-hop.
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Hodinkee
Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet as we know them wouldn't exist without the Jacob & Co. watch that brought horology to hip-hop.
Deployant
Counting down to the end of 2023, and before welcoming 2024, here are the best posts on Deployant for 2023. Part 1 lists the no6 to 10 spots.
Time+Tide
Two customised Rolex, one winner. Which fared better at the Sotheby's Fine Watches auction: the Supreme Submariner or the Asprey Daytona?The post The Supreme Submariner versus the Asprey Daytona – which went for more? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Arnold & Son Luna Magna Red Gold “Year of the Dragon” is a limited edition watch that celebrates the 2024 “Year of the Wooden Dragon”. The watch is crafted with fine watchmaking, miniature sculpture, and gemstone craftsmanship, showcasing a dragon and a moon made from red gold (5N). The watch is available in two variations featuring pietersite or onyx.
Time+Tide
It may seem the most boring choice, but Zach makes a case for why Rolex made the most of 2023.The post Why Rolex is the brand that won 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
On main sponsor Chopard's racing team we pushed ourselves, and our cars, to the limit to understand what makes the Mille Miglia so special.
Hodinkee
A late-night host and a President sit down to record a podcast... both wearing Seamasters. Dare we call this horological history?
Worn & Wound
It’s the FINAL COUNTDOWN! You’ve waited till the absolute last moment to grab that gift you’ve always wanted for yourself or for that person in your life who finally dropped a hint you can act on. Whatever the case, you now find yourself scrambling through our Gift Guides and Sales and Promotions page for the perfect gift. Well, I’m here to let you know that we still have a ton of great items in stock. And the icing on the cake? Today, until 1:00pm EST, we’re offering free overnight shipping in the USA on orders over $500. It’s the FINAL COUNTDOWN! You’ve waited till the absolute last moment to grab that gift you’ve always wanted for yourself or for that person in your life who finally dropped a hint you can act on. Whatever the case, you now find yourself scrambling through our Gift Guides and Sales and Promotions page for the perfect gift. Well, I’m here to let you know that we still have a ton of great items in stock. And the icing on the cake? Today, until 1:00pm EST, we’re offering free overnight shipping in the USA on orders over $500. The post 2023 Holiday Sale: Gifts to Grab in the Final Hours appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Corporate climber or board billionaire? Your choice of wristwear may say more about you thank you think.The post What the watch you wear to the the office holiday party says about you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We recently caught up with Samuel Hoffmann, Brand Manager of Hautlence and we discussed what makes the brand tick.And why it is making a comeback.
Monochrome
It’s pretty surprising when you think that the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant’s take on the luxury sports watch, has been around for fewer than three years. Thanks to its well-designed and finished case, its integrated and interchangeable bracelet, its clean dial, its well-represented range of complications, its affordable price tag, and the fact that it […]
Quill & Pad
As anyone who has seen Tom Mosso talk in his numerous (6,000+) podcasts or a horological seminar, he has a prodigious memory for watch reference numbers and details. But there's much more to Tim's brain than that as Ian Skellern explains.
SJX Watches
As we reported earlier in the year, the F.P. Journe boutique in London at 33 Bruton St is now open. Perfectly placed in the heart of Mayfair, with Berkeley Square at one end and New Bond St at the other, the space used to belong to English gunmaker Holland & Holland, which was once owned by Chanel, an investor in F.P. Journe. We have been lucky enough to go down and see the new store for ourselves, and chat with the friendly team led by Shawn Mehta (pictured above centre alongside Francois-Paul Journe and Amelie Lefevere, chief executive of F.P. Journe). With an aesthetic that will be familiar to anyone who has stepped into one of the brand’s other stores, the space is thoughtful segmented into three parts, with the plan laid out by Mr Journe, who attends to every detail himself. The main area at the front contains the displays of the brand’s watches along with a traditional watchmakers bench and portraits of historical watchmakers that have inspired Mr Journe, including Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Next sits the “heart” of the boutique according to its staff, the bar area. Stocked with F.P. Journe’s own wine made by Chateau Seguin, it is a fantastic space for discussion. Overlooking this convivial area is a frosted depiction of a Resonance movement that is actually the drinks cabinet. Finally, at the back is a private area with seating where clients consultations take place. A dinner was held to launch the boutique, attended by clients and friends o...
Hodinkee
Sixty years after its introduction, we give you everything you need to know about the Carrera – and lots you don't.
Worn & Wound
Seiko has recently expanded their Seiko 5 Sports Field series to include two new references, each with a GMT function. A first for this line of watches following the popular series that included rotating 24 hour bezels last year, the GMT function allows for a secondary timezone to be easily read in a tidy field watch format. Whether choosing the silver SSK023 or the more rugged black SSK025, each balances functionality against a backdrop of timeless design. As for the specifications of this watch, the Seiko 5 Sports Field series is a robust and reliable timepiece designed for everyday wear. Equipped with a 4R34 automatic movement, it offers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours and is equipped with 24 jewels. The watch incorporates practical functions such as a 24-hour hand for dual time display and a stop second hand function. Functionality is identical to the earlier Seiko 5 Sports GMT release, which means an independently adjustable 24-hour hand and “caller” GMT functionality. Its stainless steel case, measuring 39.4mm in diameter and 13.6mm in thickness, includes a curved Hardlex crystal and showcases Lumibrite on both hands and indexes for enhanced visibility. The watch has a water resistance of 10 bar and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m, making it suitable for various environments that really lives up to its field watch bona fides. Importantly, these watches feature a fixed 24-hour bezel in the style of a Rolex Explorer II, which naturally gives these watc...
Monochrome
In 2001, Mr Pascal Raffy bought the Bovet watch brand, and ever since, he has been carefully building the brand with a strong focus on Haute Horlogerie and doing as much as possible “in-house”. The vertical integration at Bovet 1822, which is the brand’s full name, is pretty impressive, and the number of in-house-made parts […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today. 1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...
Monochrome
Maurice de Mauriac is a family-run watch business based in Zurich. Founded by the late Daniel Dreifuss in 1997, it is now in the hands of his three children. With four basic collections and a section dedicated to collaborations, the brand has a strong affinity for 1980s styling and does not shy away from colour. […]
SJX Watches
The Raketa Sonar is a unique take on a dive watch. Featuring a funky, 1970s design with a colourful, 24-hour display – that was designed with the help of a Soviet navy captain – the Sonar has 200 m of water resistance. Two versions are available, a regular production and a limited edition – but it’s the latter that stands out. Both have steel cases, but the limited edition Sonar Kashalot has a bezel fabricated from titanium taken from the hull of the K-322 Kashalot, an Akula-class nuclear submarine that was deployed by the Soviet navy and decommissioned in 2019. Initial thoughts Known for its ostentatiously retro styling strongly evocative of Soviet-era timekeepers, Raketa sticks to its specialty with the Sonar. The design follows the mantra of form follows function: every aspect is catered to someone working in a nuclear-powered submariner. The 24-hour scale, for example, is useful since there is neither night nor day in a submarine. While the execution may not be to everyone’s taste, the originality of the concept is unmistakable. Recycled metal from Soviet nuclear submarines aren’t exactly rare – the Kashalot weighed over 14,000 tonnes fully loaded – but it gives the Sonar an additional degree of novelty and appeal. The submarine-titanium bezel is, however, substantially more expensive and only found on the limited edition. The standard model costs €1,900, and is the quality is as expected for the price. Raketa has improved its quality in recent years,...
Time+Tide
The mid-range integrated-bracelet watch was just updated with a fresh colour palette.The post The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Summer collection is beach-ready for all wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In Tim Mosso's opinion, a tourbillon watch like the Breguet Classique Grande Complication 5317 would cause a sensation. On its own terms as a modern luxury article, the 5317 is both a wonder and a comparative value.
WatchAdvice
The new Rado Centrix Diamonds is that perfect all-around watch for women – a touch sporty and a touch dressy that can pair with any outfit for any occasion. What We Love The rose gold paired with the white ceramicThe ability to dress up or downThe diamonds are not too showy What We Don’t The weight (compared to other pieces worn)The stripes on the dial (initially)The movement finishing could be a little higher Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 So, this isn’t your typical watch review from me. I’m not the intended target for the new Rado Centrix Automatic Diamonds, which you may have seen Rado Ambassador and former Women’s World Number 1 Tennis Champion, Ash Barty sporting recently. However, my wife, Dominique on the other hand is the person who would buy and wear this particular piece. Given she already owns a Rado True Ceramic Thinline in white, which I bought for her 10 years ago, I felt she was the perfect person to test out Rado’s new Centrix Automatic Diamonds. The new Rado Centrix Automatic Diamonds So I gave it to Dominique for a week to wear as she went about her week. And as a busy Mother of our two girls, running around after them, working 3 days a week in a senior corporate job and juggling a side business as well, she had her hands full. While wearing it for the week, I asked her a range of questions about the piece on its design, how it wore and felt on the wrist. So I’ve turned her w...
Monochrome
Let’s cut to the chase. In my book, the Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve takes the crown as one of the most aesthetically pleasing, if not the most attractive watch currently offered by the brand. I’ve appreciated certain pieces in the Belisar and Noramis collections, and Union Glashütte consistently demonstrates a keen […]
Time+Tide
Out of the ten craziest watches of 2023, it's arguable that half of them are from this Vacheron Constantin collection.The post Vacheron Constantin explore the world’s styles with Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The continued rise of Cartier and complicated Patek, a $400,000 G-Shock, along with what's not-so-hot in today's market.
Worn & Wound
While recovering from COVID, I recently watched a documentary I had heard about while listening to The Grey NATO Podcast. 14 Peaks: Nothing is impossible is the story of Nepali mountaineer Nimsdai Purja, who summited all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in only seven months. The previous record was 7 years! Nims’ goal was to highlight the Nepalese climbing community. To this day, climbing these peaks cannot be done without the incredible endurance, courage, strength, and sheer determination of the Sherpas. It is these Sherpas that inspired Enicar in the 1950s to create dive watches that could not only withstand the depths at sea but get even more water-resistant the deeper you dove. Thus, the super-compressor was born. Sadly, Enicar did not survive the 1970s quartz crisis. Thankfully, all was not lost, as in 2019 Martin Klocke of Germany revived the Sherpa and created a brand around this model. Just like its namesake, these are proper super-compressors. Featuring many of the original features combined with modern technology and know-how across two models, the Ultradive and OPS. Now, a new version of the latter is available thanks to a collaboration with a popular watch podcast. Sherpa has teamed up with The Real Time Show podcast, hosted by industry insiders Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nubbs, to create a sandblasted stainless-steel version of the OPS model (it was available only in polished steel or a black DLC finish previously). The result is a beautiful satin fin...
Monochrome
With its superb movement and innovative escapement, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer (CIC) is a fascinating watch and technical development. 4 different variations of the CIC have been presented so far: two initial limited editions in white gold followed by rose gold and steel editions. The independent watchmaker has just dropped the first pictures […]
Monochrome
Since its debut in 1957, the Hamilton Ventura has been a head-turner primarily because of its unconventional shape and, technically, because it was the first electric watch on the market. However, the wrist that catapulted the watch to fame belonged to Elvis Presley, who wore the watch in the 1961 film Blue Hawaii. To celebrate […]
SJX Watches
Now a cultural icon of New York City, Tiffany & Co. has turned to 1950s taxicabs of its home city for its latest tabletop timepiece. The Tiffany Taxi is an eight-day clock in aluminium and steel – in brand’s signature colour naturally. Taking the shape of a typical 1950s American automobile with tail fins, the Tiffany Taxi is both a timekeeper and automaton – it incorporates a time display as well as a V8 engine with moving pistons. And like past Tiffany clocks, it is made by L’Epée 1839, the go-to specialist in Switzerland for high-end clocks. Initial thoughts While primarily known for jewellery watches like its signature Bird on a Rock and double-signed Patek Philippe timepieces, the New York jeweller has recently unveiled a line of table clocks. The Tiffany Taxi is its most elaborate to date. In addition to the time display inside the engine compartment, the Taxi clock also has an “engine”, a mechanism taking the form of a V8 engine with pistons that move when the engine is “started”. Charming as it is, the Tiffany Taxi is a pricey horological novelty, with a retail price of US$50,000. It is, however, an impressive object for the desk that is particularly faithful to Tiffany’s history as a New York City institution. Inspired by midcentury cabs The Tiffany Taxi is modelled on the iconic taxicabs of New York City, in particular the Yellow Cabs made famous the world over by films about the city – but the clock is of course in the familiar Robin egg bl...
SJX Watches
I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.
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