Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
Meet the new lead ship in the armada of Carrera chronographs.
Results for Equation of Time
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Hodinkee
WatchAdvice
Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Review
Early this year, Breitling announced a series of new watches for 2020. In it was the revival of the Superocean Heritage ‘57. This particular model stood out for us and now we finally have the chance to go hands-on. This particular model, reference A10370161C1X1, is part of Breitling’s Capsules collection where they pay tribute to the 1950’s and 1960’s laidback surfing lifestyles. Breitling drew design inspirations from the songs created by musicians such as Beach Boys, Jay and Dan and the Ventures. Reference A10370161C1X1 CEO of Breitling, Mr. Georges Kern said “The Capsule Collections let us tell some of our brand’s most inspiring stories while we produce some remarkably unique watches for a limited amount of time. With the Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection, we’ve focused on the relaxed Southern California fun-in-the-sun culture that defined an era. The surfing itself in the 1950s and 1960s is at the heart of our storytelling here, but those times offered so much more: the great music, the amazing cars, and the almost spiritual connection to freedom found on endless sandy beaches and in the search for the perfect wave.” We chose to go hands on with the blue dial SOH ’57 (reference A10370161C1X1) as it caught our eye. Reference A10370161C1X1 Breitling SOH ’57 Case: SOH ‘57 comes in a 42mm size casing and the case is constructed from stainless steel. The dial without the concave bezel is measured at just 38mm!. With a thickness of just u...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Tudor Royal Day-Date
Unveiled quietly in July and destined only for a handful of Asian markets to start with – and then worldwide from November 2020 – the Tudor Royal is a lightly retro wristwatch with an integrated bracelet, almost a luxury-sports watch, but for decidedly entry-level money. Like many of Tudor’s more affordable watches, the Royal Day-Date is powered by a Sellita movement, as opposed to the in-house movements found in the upper-end models. But the Royal still boasts the brand’s typically excellent quality, especially of the case and bracelet. The design of the Royal, however, is a mixed bag. Initial thoughts The Royal is good enough that I hope it will be gently tweaked, which would make it outstanding; it could be so much better. In fact, the Royal is Tudor’s most paradoxical watch. The quality and wearability are good, some details are great, but the bezel and dial are both old fashioned and dull. Nevertheless, the Royal is, like nearly all Tudor watches, excellent value for money. Priced at about US$2,400, the Royal has an Oyster case that’s excellent in both construction, finish, and design. And it provides another alternative for those who want a solid Tudor watch that doesn’t look like a sports watch. The wide, flat face where it meets the bracelet is perhaps its most attractive feature The bracelet is a simple but robust construction that integrates well into the case And the watch wears well. Although the Day Date is wide at 41 mm (there are several smalle...
SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces the UR-220 “Falcon Project”
Urwerk has just revealed the next generation of its flagship wristwatch – the UR-220 “Falcon Project”. Retaining the same case shape and signature satellite-cube hour display as its predecessor, the UR-210, the “Falcon Project” is nonetheless an entirely different watch. The UR-220 is powered by a newly-developed movement that hand-wound, instead of automatic as before, and in a first for the brand, the case is made of carbon composite, matched with a rubber-carbon composite strap. Initial thoughts A landmark in avant-garde independent watchmaking for its three-dimensional wandering hours, the UR-201 evolved into the UR-203 and then the UR-210. The new UR-220 is an incremental improvement in the same vein, though a substantial one. I had hoped for a brand-new time display to succeed the satellite-cube indicator, but that is perhaps something for the distant future. Even though the UR-220 retains the same general aesthetic on the front, it is fundamentally different mechanically. The movement has been substantially reengineered – the base remains the Zenith Elite calibre in the UR-210 but now minus automatic mechanism – and now incorporates new functions like the cylindrical service indicator. It also sees the addition of a split power-reserve display, which Urwerk says was a complex mechanism requiring 83 parts. While that may be true, it feels unnecessary, except to give the face a symmetrical layout. But one of the most significant changes is the case mate...
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Sotheby’s to Sell Legendary, Royal Breguet Pocket Watches
Sotheby’s watch auction at the end of October will be headlined by a trio of historically important and highly complicated Breguet pocket watches that were all once owned by royalty, and then part of the David Salomons Breguet collection. The top lot will unquestionably be Breguet no. 2788, nicknamed “The Prince Regent’s Resonance”, an experimental 1818 watch with twin balance wheels operating on the principle of resonance. [Update October 27, 2020: The sale of watches from The Museum for Islamic Art will be postponed until sometime in November 2020, due to the museum having decided to rethink the deaccessioning of part of its collection.] The twin balance wheels of Breguet no. 2788 Given their hallowed provenance, the trio of Breguet watches being offered for sale is surprising, but perhaps in keeping with the times. Despite the golden age of pocket watch collecting having seemingly come to an end – or perhaps because of it – several important pocket watches have sold well in the last two years. Amongst the recent highlights is one of the oldest watches known, the 369-year old Cremsdorff preserved in mint condition, and the 20th century masterpiece by George Daniels. The majority of those came from the massive collection put together by the late Erivan Haub, a supermarket tycoon who was perhaps the most important collector of pocket watches in his day. Sotheby’s upcoming London auction, however, has a handful of exceptionally important pocket watches from...
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite 2020 New Releases For Under $3,000
Some of our favorite offerings right in the sweet spot.
SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary
Originally just a model name for the bestselling watch of the brand MDM (short for Montre des Montres), Hublot got off the ground with one of the “it” watches of the 1980s that a first in combining yellow gold with a rubber strap. The brand is now 40 years old and a global success thanks to a late-in-life rejuvenation. To commemorate the occasion – which chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe hinted at in January – the brand has unveiled the sleek and simple Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary modelled on the original Hublot wristwatch of 1980. Minimalist in style, the anniversary watch sticks to the restrained look of the maritime-inspired original – hublot is French for “porthole” – but is substantially larger to cater to modern tastes. And like the original it is available in 18k yellow gold – combining the precious metal and rubber was a novelty in 1980 – but also in titanium or black ceramic. The 1980 model in steel (left) and the anniversary edition Initial thoughts While modern-day Hublot watches are often maximalist and sometimes over the top, the anniversary Classic Fusion is the opposite, a look that works well with the case and bezel. The 1980 original was a compact, pared-back watch that was at odds with the fashionable watches of the era – think two-tone Cartier Santos or Ebel – and proof that less is more. The dial of the remake sticks closely to the original, with a white-on-black date that is a welcome improvement. But the addition of ...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph
Last year’s debut of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet was widely panned, with with most of the criticism centred on the dial that was widely regarded to be flat. That left the highlight of the new model to go unnoticed – a new case made up of an intriguing blend of geometric forms and intricate edges. Just after launching warmly-received variants with smoked dials (following last year’s Bolshoi edition in smoked-finish enamel), Audemars Piguet has taken the covers off the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, which follows the aesthetic direction set by the record-setting Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”. Initial thoughts Audemars Piguet did well in combining two classical complications – a flyback chronograph and flying tourbillon – in a surprisingly contemporary and slightly sporty watch, which owes its looks to the complementary movement and case design. The skeletonised movement echoes the clean, angular lines of the case and open-worked lugs. A newly-developed movement – and one seemingly designed from ground-up as a skeleton – the cal. 2952 is thoughtfully constructed with a neatly symmetrical layout. As important is the high-contrast finish that emphasises the skeletonisation, achieved with rhodium-plated bridges against a matte-black base plate. The styling of the watch addresses the key shortcoming of the original Code 11.59 – the plain dial – and allows the Code 11.59 to come into its own with a cohesive des...
![[Satire] Mark Zuckerberg Purchases Rolex Brand… Just Because.](https://twobrokewatchsnobs.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/tbws-zuckerburg-buys-rolex-1024x768.png)
Two Broke Watch Snobs
[Satire] Mark Zuckerberg Purchases Rolex Brand… Just Because.
[Satire] Zuckerberg comments, “That new blueberry Submariner kind of reminds me of our Facebook logo,” he remarked. “I think I’ll keep that one. All of that one. The ‘smurf’ too.” Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Colour Me Beautiful - Six Vibrantly Coloured Watches to Add Into A Collection, from Our Archives
Looking to add some colours in your life? This week's, we take a look at some of the vibrantly coloured watches that you can add into your collection.
Quill & Pad
Seiko’s Secret: Specialist Haute Horlogerie Micro Artist Division In Japan - Reprise
Seiko’s story is much more complicated than most people might think. This is a manufacturer that not only followed a trend, but actually created some of its own, capitalizing on expertise, knowledge, and skills that were practically the mother of necessity for this manufacturer located so far away from the established European centers of watchmaking. Including its extraordinary Micro Artist Division, its little-known department for high horology.
Deployant
The new Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune - review
The new Hermès de la lune watch offers a unique vision of Earth’s satellite with the simultaneous display of moon phases in both northern and southern hemispheres. Two mobile counters gravitate on a lapis lazuli dial, revealing mother-of-pearl moons in step with an exclusive module, coupled with a Manufacture Hermès movement.
Revolution
Coco Clock
The 20th-anniversary celebration of Chanel’s J12 unwinds in glorious black and white.
Quill & Pad
Transparently Sublime Bovet Ottantasei By Pininfarina: Near Perfection - Reprise
Ian Skellern tried, but didn't quite manage, to come up with a more diplomatic way of saying this, so he just came out with it: up to this point, he had not generally been a fan of Bovet 1822. So he was surprised by just how much he was impressed with the Ottantasei by Pininfarina and would be very happy to wear one daily. But there is one niggle that he just can't shake off . . .
Quill & Pad
Breitling Vintage-Inspired AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II, and Chronomat B01 42 Bentley: Do They Hit The Mark?
With no travel for GaryG over the last COVID-19-restricted months, he has been grateful for opportunities to add variety by handling some of this year’s new watches. And recently Breitling lent Gary three of its new re-edition watches. He shares his thoughts and stunning photos of these new Breitling models here.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
First Omega in Space Review: Numbered Edition 311.32.40.30.01.001
The FOIS is attainable, wearable, and relatively affordable when compared to the limited editions of the Speedmaster Professional and other Swiss mechanical chronographs like the Rolex Daytona, Zenith El Primero, and Breitling Navitimer.
SJX Watches
Laine Watches Introduce the 13ZN Chronograph Piece Unique
Best known for his affordable, customisable watches, Torsti Laine recently completed a chronograph that was several years in the making. Commissioned by one of his earliest clients, the Laine Watches AKIL13ZN Piece Unique reimagines a fabled Longines 13ZN chronograph movement, while still retaining originality in style and substance. The watch is powered by a vintage 13ZN movement that was rejuvenated by Mr Laine and matched with a newly-made case and dial inspired by chronographs of the 1930s and 1940s. Initial thoughts Even though the watch is a one-off that will not be repeated – Mr Laine is no longer making chronographs – it is a well-executed realisation of the owner’s vision that is worth a quick look. And it was also done at reasonable cost, illustrating Mr Laine’s focus on excellent but affordable watchmaking. The aesthetic is clearly vintage inspired, but done with an eye for detail that clearly came from a collector. Elements like the arrow-shaped hand on the minute register, or the large, flat crown, are small yet important in establishing the pleasing, period-correct look. Notably, the movement is nearly identical to how it was when it left the factory, having only been modestly modified. This is contrary to current tastes in refinishing vintage movements to a modern standard, but it is sensible in both aesthetics – the vintage-inspired dial and case suit the movement well – and also cost, since extensive decoration is not necessary. The watch is ...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Early Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
A market-defying synthesis of Audemars Piguet at its best.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: An Olympic Seiko, A Deep-Diving Girard-Perregaux, And A First-Execution Heuer Autavia
All that, and more, in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
Time+Tide
What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold?
Now that Rolex has released watches and ended that dreadful rumour that they were sitting 2020 out, the important work begins. Nicknaming them. The one that has perhaps caused the most contention, is this one, the Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold. We’re going to tell you everything you need to know about it … ContinuedThe post What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: HODINKEE Insurance, The Hassle-Free Way To Insure Your Watches
All of the protection, none of the headaches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Top Reddit Watch Seller Nominated for Nobel Peace Prize
“In the past year, despite a global pandemic, social unrest, and economic catastrophe, [Ramachandran] successfully found homes for thousands of neglected watches.” Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
Revolution
Introducing the USD325 UNDONE Tropical Dial Type 20 for The Rake & Revolution
We’ve partnered up with UNDONE to create the 300-piece limited edition Tropical Dial Type XX, with USD50 from the sale of each watch committed towards the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride 2020 charity fund.
Revolution
UNDONE x Revolution Tropical Type 20 Chronograph, Launched in Conjunction with The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Fundraiser 2020
Revolution and custom watch brand UNDONE collaborate to release this cool limited-edition watch, and, even better, a part of the sales proceeds will go towards causes supported by the DGR.
SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Introduces the Highlife Perpetual Calendar
Long focused on affordable mechanical watches, Frederique Constant continued with its specialty after its acquisition by Japanese watchmaking giant Citizen. Now the Swiss brand has just revived its bestseller from two decades ago, the Highlife collection, which has been redesigned extensively. It’s a new watch in all but name – the revamped Highlife harks back to the integrated-strap of the original, but it is a design very much catered to today’s taste. The Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture The new Highlife collection debuts with three models that share the same tonneau-shaped case and integrated bracelet with quick-release pins. The most interesting watch of the trio is the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, which is affordable despite its in-house movement and styling that’s reminiscent of more expensive watches. The other two models in the line up are simple automatics: one is time-only with an “Open Heart” dial revealing the balance wheel, and the other is a COSC-certified three-hander with date. Highlife Automatic COSC The Highlife Heart Beat Initial thoughts The Highlife manages to translate the look of high-end luxury-sports watches into an affordable watch by keeping a few design elements and simplifying everything. It is unavoidably derivative in style, but competently designed. So the 41 mm case is a simple affair with simple lines and surfaces, but dressed up with a polished, domed bezel. However, it avoids looking too plain even with t...
Deployant
Swatch goes bio-sourced fully with new collection: Gents “1983” BIO-RELOADED
Swatch introduces a new collection “1983” -a contemporary interpretation of an iconic watch design, using bio-sourced materials and innovative technologies.
Time+Tide
3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future
Cometh the crisis, cometh the man. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, has grown in stature yet again over the last six months as Bulgari has taken a militant stance against COVID-19. Whether it’s delivering Bulgari hand sanitiser to hospitals to assist in their fight against this deadly virus, or delivering a fair with 16 of … ContinuedThe post 3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Man Tears Rotator Cuff Trying To Get Rolex Into Frame On Video Call
ReadySetMarketing is contesting Mr. Jung’s filing of worker’s compensation, stating that his Rolex isn’t an essential tool for his day to day duties and that no one else in the video call had their camera on except him. Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
Two Broke Watch Snobs
YouTube Watch Reviewer Confused That He Can’t Pay Rent with Freebies
"I showed her the quality of the logo on the box." Blaine Parker, the YouTube watch reviewer, explained as he raised a box for us to see the embossed lettered. "See? That's pressed into the box - not printed. Quality!" Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Watch Collector Optimistic with Latest Acquisition’s Potential to Raise His Sex Appeal
Having come across a flattering photo of Ryan Reynolds in a Google search for “celebrity watch brands,” Melvin Greenberg, 41, was convinced, “This is the one. This is the one that will finally get me laid.” Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).