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Quill & Pad
The 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore (ROO) is an excellent time to think seriously about how good this watch is as a collector’s item. An essential aspect of this subject is mechanical watches with complications.
Here at Worn & Wound, we’re massive movie fans and as you likely already know, Hamilton has a movie lineage that reaches all the way back to 1932. We’re honored to partner with them to bring you the ultimate holiday gift guide for the movie lover in your life! The movies evoke emotions, shared experiences, and most importantly, cultural touchstones that become the iconography of future generations. Besides the smell of butter flavored popcorn, there’s no quicker way to the heart of a movie lover than to gift them any one of these iconic items. The post Holiday Gift Guide for the Movie Lover in Your Life with Hamilton appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Just a couple of weeks ago, we brought you news on the new Airain Type 21 and the updates for the Type 20. Now it’s time to focus on sister-brand Lebois & Co for a new and admittedly very handsome edition of the Heritage Chronograph. Both brands are owned and managed by Dutchman Tom van […]
Worn & Wound
In the sea of vintage-inspired, sport-watch focused microbrands – with which there is nothing wrong, of course – are a select few brands who seem to have stumbled upon an aesthetic that is uniquely theirs. One such example is Havid Nagan whose 2021 debut model was aptly named HN00. We were impressed with it and covered it here, and today Havid Nagan is back with the follow-up to its opening shot: Introducing the HN01 Lucine, Havid Nagan’s interpretation of, and ode to, the moonphase. So what changed and what hasn’t? The closest thing the two watches share are their cases: The HN01 titanium cushion-esque case keeps the same 40.2mm diameter as its predecessor but has slimmed down from 11.6mm thick to only 10.2mm. Its profile has also been massaged slightly to better accentuate its profile. This is even more impressive when you consider the effort required to fit an entirely new complication module inside. The HN01 Lucine’s powertrain is a Chronode base movement that has been heavily modified to include a moonphase module (which itself has been improved to err only one day from every 2.5 years to every 11.6 years). The module itself, which displays the moon at 12 o’clock, contains two photorealistic moons that float on a “mystery” style transparent sapphire wheel. Havid Nagan has also taken it upon themselves to decorate the movement with hand-applied anglage and additional perlage clouds on the mainplate (both sides) and skeletonized bridges. There is also a...
Time+Tide
We take a closer look at a microbrand entry into an surprisingly sparse section of the GMT market.The post The Lorca Model No.1 GMT is 36mm of horological goodness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In 2020 Breitling presented their throwbackiest watch to date. Yes, I made up that word. From its distinct concave bezel to its form fitting mesh bracelet, the SuperOcean Heritage ‘57 very much looked the part, yet had a very contemporary sizing of 42mm. Since then, this watch has been offered in multiple color variants, which included a very impressive rainbow colorway that featured a black dial and multicolored hands and indices. Being so wildly different from their other SuperOcean models, including the standard Heritage line, I do not believe it got the attention it deserved. Despite being 42mm, the Heritage ‘57 was only 9.9mm thick. Its profile was impressive, and the lug thickness matched the bracelet thickness perfectly. It must have been a joy to wear. Breitling is now introducing four new versions of the Heritage ‘57 dubbed the Highlands Capsule Collection. These new pieces have been downsized to more traditional vintage proportions and many will be jumping for joy at the 38mm diameter and short 42mm lug to lug length, making this one truly unisex. Somehow, they have even managed to shrink the thickness down to only 9.35mm and maintain the 100m of water-resistance. Inspired by the Scottish Highlands, there are four land-and-sea inspired dial colors available: beige, green, mustard, and blue. They all feature stainless steel cases and scratch-resistant ceramic bezels rimmed in 18k red gold. Powering these watches will be the Breitling Caliber 10 (a modifi...
Deployant
Franck Muller extends their famous Cintrée Curvex cased collection with the new CX Ladies collection, now in two sizes of 30mm and 33mm.
WatchAdvice
The 75th Anniversary Seamaster Professional Diver 300M “Summer Blue” may just be the perfect watch for Summer and we’ve taken it out to see if it really is. What We Love The gradient blue dialComfort factor of the rubber strapWears smaller than stats suggest What We Don’t Colourway could limit it’s versatility across the yearThis version on the bracelet, get the rubber!No display caseback on this version Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9.5/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 This year marks the 75th Anniversary of the Omega Seamaster, and to celebrate, the brand released the “Summer Blue” Collection in one of the most iconic locations, Mykonos Greece. In a unique move, Omega released a Summer Blue variant of each watch in the Seamaster lineup (which you can read our coverage of here) designed to mimic the Aegean Sea, and the deeper the watch’s depth rating, the darker the blue. It’s a cool concept. The Omega 75th Anniversary Summer Blue Seamaster Collection Now it’s Summer here in Australia, it felt timely to take possibly the best-known, and most popular of the Seamster collection, the Diver 300M on rubber strap out and about to see if this is “THE” watch for the Summer. Initial Thoughts The Omega Seamaster Diver isn’t an unfamiliar watch for me. I’ve now owned two of them: an original Seamaster Diver James Bond Quartz, and then more recently, the current SMP300 with the black dial and bezel. You can read my Owners Perspe...
SJX Watches
Positioned as a creative endeavour rather than a traditional brand, Kollokium debuts with a departure from conventional watchmaking norms, the Projekt 01. Born from the aesthetic sensibilities of its founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium is about unconventional design and raw, unpolished aesthetics. Kollokium is a project-based offering, with each “projekt” iterated into variants but produced in limited numbers. Projekt 01 begins as a “Friends & Family” edition only for insiders, but a publicly available version will soon be launched in early 2024. Initial thoughts The Projekt 01 blends avant-garde design with innovative manufacturing processes, and an affordable price tag. And it also doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by the case back – something that collectors tired of self-important brands will appreciate. The cast steel case delivers an industrial and robust aesthetic, setting it apart from watches in this price segment. On top is a highly-domed “box” sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that enhances the visual experience. But most intriguing is the three-dimensional pixellated dial made up of with 468 hand-applied cylindrical markers tipped with Super-LumiNova, a surprising degree of craftsmanship given its price. Kollokium’s philosophy is also reflected in the decision to identify the La Joux-Perret G101 movement. Like many watch start-ups, Kollokium is committed to transparency, while being mor...
Time+Tide
Omega's brawniest diver makes a blue-tinged comeback with vintage sizing.The post Omega Ploprof Summer Blue – the return of the beast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Patek Philippe 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon launched in platinum for the 2001 model year, the 12-complication featured two dials. Dial one was devoted to a moonphase indicator and a perpetual calendar with retrograde date display. On the sub-dial display for months, simple text promised a tourbillon regulator within the case.
Worn & Wound
You know when you run across something so rad that you realize “wow, I never knew I wanted that, but I totally do!” What if I told you there’s a watch that’s been made in collaboration with an iconic ejection seat manufacturer, and the watch itself has been tested to the same extremes as said ejection seats: vibration, extreme endurance, live ejection, altitude, and aircraft carrier deck testing? Well, Bremont and Martin-Baker brought life to a limited edition watch that expands on Bremont’s popular MB line - the MBIII Stealth is born. Limited to only 50 pieces, the MBIII Stealth is an almost totally blacked-out watch that would curl the toes of any secret agent. The case itself is 43mm of jet black DLC coated stainless steel with a knurled aluminum barrel, that pulls from the design elements of Martin-Baker ejection seats, and matches with the knurling on the duel crowns: one crown for setting and winding your watch, and the other is for the inner rotating 24-hour bezel. The MBIII Stealth has GMT and date functionality, made possible through Bremont’s chronometer certified BE-93-2AV automatic movement. The movement itself is anti-shock with a faraday ring that makes it both shock resistant and anti-magnetic, and it can all be seen through a smoked sapphire exhibition caseback that adds to the jet-setting super spy motif of the watch. In fact, the only area in which any color can be found is underneath the sapphire crystal on the dial, whose Arabic numerals...
Worn & Wound
One of the challenges of gift-giving is striking the balance between sentimentality and practicality. Today we will be focusing on the latter by highlighting a few products that have a wide appeal and can find great use in everyday life. This Chronicle is all about EDC items that can be stocking-stuffers or just nice small gifts. They are all handy, useful, and under $100. Check out these and all our other EDC items right here in the Windup Watch Shop! One of the challenges of gift-giving is striking the balance between sentimentality and practicality. Today we will be focusing on the latter by highlighting a few products that have a wide appeal and can find great use in everyday life. This Chronicle is all about EDC items that can be stocking-stuffers or just nice small gifts. They are all handy, useful, and under $100. Check out these and all our other EDC items right here in the Windup Watch Shop! The post EDC Picks for the Holidays appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
The ins and outs of vintage Patek Philippe including dream references, peak values, and sleeper hits.
Deployant
And to close our Dear Santa roundup this year with the Chief Editor's picks. We return the rationale for the wishlist, and why we do this exercise annually.
Monochrome
Camouflage dials have been a big hit in the past couple of years, and we’ve covered several combat-ready models. Zenith pushes the camouflage concept to the extreme, giving its Defy Extreme a radical makeover with a reflective mirrored surface. Undoubtedly the boldest take on its high-performance 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph, the latest manifestation blends into its surroundings […]
Quill & Pad
Mascarello is an Italian wine producer family that adheres to the old ways. Apparently, there is no email nor website (I certainly could not find one), and until 1990 they did not even have a phone. However, there are many who believe that Maria Teresa (granddaughter of founder Giulio Mascarello) has taken the wines to unprecedented heights. After a recent visit to the winery in Italy, Ken Gargett is one of them.
Monochrome
In the vast realm of heavenly wonders, a timepiece exists tailored for every cosmic inquiry. Whether you yearn to unravel the Earth’s speed at the equator, comprehend its orbital dance around the Sun, or learn the angles at which sunrays caress your corner of the world throughout the year, rest assured. There’s a watch designed […]
Worn & Wound
When it comes to setting the standard for British elegance, does anyone do it better than Farer? The London-based watchmaker, whose timepieces are produced in Switzerland, recently launched their latest in the Cushion Case collection: The Durham Pullman. Evoking a bygone era, this latest from Farer takes inspiration from the Pullman Company, manufacturer of train cars throughout the United Kingdom. With this, the mixture of greens and silver balances a bit of sophistication with everyday wear. The dial is the real selling point of this watch, so we’ll talk about that first. The dial boasts a luxurious dark green hue with a metallic brushed finish, lending it a dynamic tone under varying lights. Atop this base, a raised ring with a radial brushed finish creates the distinctive sector dial effect of the Cushion Case collection. Resting on this ring are highly polished silver markers- a blend of batons and Roman numerals-accompanied by a refined dauphine handset. Complementing these silver elements is the seconds sub-dial, featuring a sunken silver channel with an engine-turned finish. These meticulous details converge to establish the seasonal release of the Durham Pullman as an exceptionally refined timepiece suitable for both formal occasions and weekend outings alike. As part of the Cushion Collection, the Durham Pullman is bound to have presence when worn due to its shape and easy-to-style size that complements a variety of wearers. Sitting at 38.5 mm with a 43.8mm...
Monochrome
While being strongly driven by the release of new models in recent years, Grand Seiko does carry a few emblematic models in its collection; watches that have barely changed over the last 10 to 20 years. We can immediately think about the cream-dial Elegance GMT reference SBGM221. Another important model for Grand Seiko is a […]
Deployant
Stanley makes his picks for his Dear Santa Wishlist. With a diverse selection ranging from UN to JLC and MB&F;. What will Santa bring him this Christmas?
Time+Tide
Thought that diamonds on a watch cannot be tasteful? Think again.The post Vacheron Constantin applies subtle bling to the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Fire has captivated everybody with the mesmerizing appearance of its twin balances and the unusual, long, sinuous, grey spring gently oscillating along the middle of the watch. 'The Horological Journal' editor and watchmaker Justin Koullapis asks the question, "Does it live up to the hyperbole?"
Monochrome
For about a year and a half, basically since the launch of the 5 Sports Style GMT collection, it seems that the dual-time complication has become the main focus of Seiko, applying this convenient feature across most of its ranges. We’ve seen it in the SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385, the first mechanical GMT divers of […]
SJX Watches
With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...
Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann (a manufacturer named after the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking) creates some of the most beautifully crafted wristwatches available today, and one of its finest offerings is the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, introduced earlier this year. Like the brand’s Tremblage, Hamatic or Benu Heritage models, this watch is rich […]
Monochrome
As the leading watchmaker of his day, Abraham-Louis Breguet hobnobbed with France’s royalty and aristocracy. Apart from his commissions for gentlemen, his celebrity client list also included Queen Marie-Antoinette, Empress Josephine, and Caroline Murat, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, aka the Queen of Naples. A keen collector of Breguet’s revolutionary timekeepers, in 1810, Caroline Murat placed […]
Time+Tide
The meanest AMG goes perfectly with the biggest Pilot's Watch.The post IWC pick the biggest AMG for the Big Pilot’s Watch Armor Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
It can get a bit tiring introducing “another” affordable field watch from “another” new microbrand, but the Rubus from Montford Watch Company is different, supporting Tusk’s charity work in Africa with a well-thought timepiece that’s anything but an afterthought. From the textured steel grey dial, proven automatic movement and a pair of cool straps, the […]
SJX Watches
In keeping with its tradition of special editions for the Chinese Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” to celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon that begins in early 2024. A limited edition that’s made-to-order, the Reverso “Dragon” maintains the timeless, double-sided design, but with a black grand feu enamel dial and a hand-engraved case back portraying a Chinese dragon. Initial thoughts Commemorative Lunar New Year editions are not new for Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand produced an equivalent edition last year. However, the formal works: combining enamel and engraving results in a more elaborate design compared to the typical Reverso while still retaining the elegance and character of the model. The watch showcases a captivating motif on its back. On closer inspection, intricate details come to the fore, with the dragon depicted in low relief against a fired enamel background. Although almost monochromatic, it is undeniably vivid. Just like last year’s Tiger edition, the Reverso “Dragon” is made-to-order and is priced at US$107,000 before taxes. It comes in slightly higher than the previous Reverso models featuring similar artwork. It is expensive for what it is, despite the evident artistry of the decoration, particularly since Jaeger-LeCoultre is historically a brand associated with more affordable watches. A lavish depiction of a Chinese dragon The Reverso “Dragon” depicts a dragon in the clouds against a ...
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