Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: A Smaller Murph, A Value Flyer, Bond's 60th, And A Rolex (Or Two) That Never Was
Digging into some exciting new watches and some that never existed (but could have?).
Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement
6,617 articles · 81 videos found · page 104 of 224
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Entry Level: A Quick Coast-To-Coast Trip With Tutima's Most Affordable Offering
The Tutima M2 Coastline nods to the brand's military ties with a modern titanium field watch.
Time+Tide
And one more thing… The last Zenith Defy Classics ever just dropped in collaboration with Fusalp
I am by no means an avid skier. My first experience on the slopes was last year on a press trip with Hublot, my instructor bluntly telling me that my next ski adventure should also have an instructor on hand as well. But, in preparation for that first trip, I definitely was immersed in the … ContinuedThe post And one more thing… The last Zenith Defy Classics ever just dropped in collaboration with Fusalp appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Editorial: The Geneva Auction Season, November 2022
A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...
Quill & Pad
anOrdain Model 1 Payne’s Grey Fumé: 50 Shades Of Grey Never Looked So Tempting - Reprise
anOrdain is not your average watch company. Located in Glasgow, Scotland, its name derives from a remote loch deep in the Scottish Highlands. There, Lewis Heath, a trained architect, first got the idea of creating a modern watch brand honoring traditional crafts. And the new Model 1 Payne's Grey Fumé exemplifies how anOrdain not only honors these crafts but superbly progresses them.
Time+Tide
Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph
Swiss watchmaker Tissot has been the name on everyone’s lips recently since the release of their category-disrupting integrated bracelet juggernaut, the ’70s-tastic PRX. But the brand’s horological history does, of course, go back more than 150 years, all the way to 1853. A page from their rich back catalogue serves as inspiration for their elegant … ContinuedThe post Tissot’s new Telemeter 1938 brings vintage style to a thoroughly modern chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Telemeter 1938 Review
The Tissot Telemeter 1938, which joined the Swiss brand's vintage-influenced Heritage collection in summer 2022, has garnered enthusiasts' attention with its charmingly retro design, optimized chronograph movement, and enticing price-to-value ratio. We had a chance to go hands-on with both versions of the Tissot Telemeter 1938; read on for the results from our in-depth review. Overview and History By just about any historical standard, 1938 was generally a pretty dark year, marked by the lingering economic woes of the Great Depression, the violence of Kristallnacht, and the slow march to war in Europe, with Germany annexing Austria and partitioning Czechoslovakia in the ill-fated Munich pact. One of the few areas in which forward-thinking creativity and energetic optimism still prevailed in that pre-war era was the world of art and design, which was still showing the influence of the Art Deco movement that had taken root in the 1920s. Wristwatches, which had largely supplanted pocket watches as the go-to portable timekeepers for both civilian and military use, displayed this enduring design ethos while also often incorporating a useful array of functions geared toward the timing of the era’s popular sporting events, many of which involved racing - on horseback, in automobiles, and on skis. Tissot, founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura, was one of the watchmakers that specialized in making these sport-timing instruments. One of the company’s earliest forays as an offic...
SJX Watches
Business News: Grand Seiko Inaugurates Asia-Pacific Arm
Having enjoyed several years of double-digit growth in its biggest markets outside of Japan, Grand Seiko is continuing to hone a marketing and distribution strategy inspired by its Swiss peers. One of the key planks of its brand development has been to vertically integrate its sales channels, with Asia being the latest to join the mothership. Headquartered in Singapore, Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific is a newly established entity that will take charge of sales and marketing of the brand in the region. Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific becomes the company’s third regional subsidiary, after those covering Americas and Europe, both amongst the brand’s most important markets outside of Japan. The Grand Seiko boutique in Place Vendome, Paris The Asia-Pacific division of Grand Seiko no doubt develop the brand along similar lines as its counterparts in Europe and the United States. The senior managers in both the Americas and Europe are Omega alumni, with the head of the American operations also being the brand’s Global Strategy Officer. Unsurprisingly, Grand Seiko has embarked on a game plan centred on brand boutiques in upscale locations as well as limited edition models, mirroring the familiar approach utilised by many of its Swiss rivals. The newly-established Asia-Pacific operation is a joint venture between Seiko Watch Corporation and Thong Sia, the Hong Kong-based company that was the longtime Asian distributor for Grand Seiko (as well as other Seiko brands). It is chaired by Ak...
Quill & Pad
The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking - Reprise
Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.
Quill & Pad
Why The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite Is One Of The Most Historically Important Modern Wristwatches - Reprise
Why is this timepiece important from a holistic view of horological history? The reasons are manifold and include the unheard-of technology nestled within its movement, the audacity of a German newcomer in challenging Swiss status quo, and the symbolic value for A. Lange & Söhne's rebirth as well as the golden age of mechanical timepieces.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever
There’s a necessary change of format to this week’s Wind Down because we’ve discovered the worst thing in the watch world ever. Admittedly, there’s some pretty stiff competition out there in a nefarious scene full of flippers, fakes and 4 o’clock date windows. But a forthcoming auction at Bonhams really takes the horological biscuit. The … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Willem Dafoe and the ever-cheeky Konstantin Chaykin
Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how he should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador match-ups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Willem Dafoe and the ever-cheeky Konstantin Chaykin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them)
EDITOR’S NOTE: Jeff Hess is one of the world authorities on Rolex. As CEO of Duber Time and owner of Old Northeast Jewellers and Hess Fine Auctions, he’s bought vintage Rolex for almost 40 years and is the co-author of Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History (Schiffer Publishing). Here he explains some of the most common pitfalls you’ll face … ContinuedThe post The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Chronoscope Isn't Just A New Omega Speedmaster - It's All Speedmasters Ever, Packed Into One
It's a souped-up Speedy with all the dial text. And if you ever wondered how to read it, wonder no more.
Quill & Pad
The Omega Watches Of Michael Phelps, The Most Successful Olympian. Ever. - Reprise
American swimmer Michael Phelps is the most decorated Olympian in history, having won 23 gold medals over the course of 5 Olympic Games. In addition, he is an Omega ambassador and has been since 2004, a longstanding partnership. What watches did he wear during the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro? Find out here!
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils the Thinnest Mechanical Watch Ever
Having signed Ferrari as a partner last year, Richard Mille was expected to debut a Ferrari wristwatch – and probably one with a seven-figure price tag. And so it has, although the watch itself is certainly a surprise. The first watch to result from the partnership is the RM UP-01 Ferrari, the thinnest mechanical watch ever at just 1.75 mm high, besting the previous record holder by 0.05 mm. Very wide and extremely flat, the RM UP-01 achieves that by relying on familiar principles in terms of mechanical deconstruction and reduction, but takes them slightly further to shave off the millimetres. Initial thoughts The last couple of years have seen the record for the thinnest mechanical watch change hands rapidly, with Piaget taking the title in 2018 with the AUC (that came to market in 2020), followed by Bulgari earlier this year with the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The Italian jeweller did not retain the crown for long because Richard Mille has just claimed the title with the RM UP-01 that stands 1.75 mm high, compared to 1.8 mm for the Bulgari. Tellingly, the approach taken by Richard Mille echoes that of Piaget and Bulgari, essentially deconstructing the movement and doing away with as many components as possible. As a result, the RM UP-01 has parallels with the former record holders, most obviously in the tiny time display as well as the deconstructed winding and setting mechanism that each require a key. That indicates that absolute thinness has more or less been achieved...
Quill & Pad
4 Gold Dress Watches For The Classic Gentleman: Yes, Gold Dress Watches Still Exist. Gentlemen On The Other Hand Are Ever Rarer - Reprise
Gold dress watches sometimes seem to be on the brink of extinction, and Martin Green was almost ready to write their obituary. However, they do still exist and here he presents us with four classic gold dress watches for the consideration of the discerning modern-day, yet classically inclined, gentleman.
Hodinkee
Entry Level: Defeat Your Budget Concerns With The Longines Conquest Automatic
The brand's most affordable automatic is also a solid daily.
Time+Tide
“Price on application”: the most annoying three words any watch buyer can ever hear
I recently had to write a round-up of 24 of the most intriguing watches of 2022. The brief was for a glossy lifestyle magazine with an upmarket audience and some of the glossiest paper stock you’ll ever see. When it came to the reviews, all the usual suspects were present and correct from Rolex to … ContinuedThe post “Price on application”: the most annoying three words any watch buyer can ever hear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A
It is quite fitting Furlan Marri decided to name their collections “stories”. Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri knew from the outset they had many stories they wanted to tell. And by stories, I mean an effort to carefully roll out different horological visions, or chapters, with the goal of shaking up the notion of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
“Sparkling Burgundy,” Spurgles, Cold Duck From Detroit, Rene Pogel (Spell It Backwards), And Other Australian Oddities: If They Are Your Thing You’ll Never Regret It - Reprise
Effervescent red wine in Australia was originally known as "sparkling Burgundy" and is often still affectionately referred to as “Spurgles” in accordance with the country's national need to shorten every name. Ken Gargett confesses that he is a fan and shares a few of his favorites here alongside the history of this fascinating sub-genre.
Time+Tide
Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made?
What’s the biggest difference between Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet? For me, while both manufactures embody the best of traditional watchmaking, Audemars Piguet does a far better job of re-interpreting their tradition towards modern sensibilities and bringing their creations to a younger demographic. It’s the 50th anniversary of the AP Royal Oak this year, and … ContinuedThe post Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968
Heritage revivals are all the rage right now, and the manufacture that really kicked off the trend was Longines – the entire heritage collection range is devoted to digging into their rich archives and resurrecting their historic designs. From the Heritage Military to the BigEye Avigation Chrono to the Legend Diver (among others), their heritage … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: It’s never overcast with the new Hublot Big Bang Integral Sky Blue
Each day, when you step outside, it is always great start to a morning to look up and see a clear blue sky. As a master of materials, Hublot has captured that essence within their ceramic with this dreamy hue that’s adjacent to Tiffany blue. Sky blue is not a new hue for Hublot, but … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: It’s never overcast with the new Hublot Big Bang Integral Sky Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Entry Level: The Least Expensive Lange Is A Precious Metal Saxonia That Rocks
The cost of entry to A. Lange & Söhne might not be cheap, but boy is it worth it.
Time+Tide
The ultimate Rolex barn find in the desert: “I’ve been watch-hunting for 30 years, but never found anything like this…”
EDITOR’S NOTE: John Karambelas is the man behind @barnfindwatches, an Instagram account that documents his watch-collecting adventures as he attempts to uncover old watches gathering dust in flea markets and thrift stores across America. Here, John shares the story of his ultimate barn find, which he randomly stumbled upon while driving through the Mojave Desert. … ContinuedThe post The ultimate Rolex barn find in the desert: “I’ve been watch-hunting for 30 years, but never found anything like this…” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
You’ll never guess the watch of footballing wonderkid Erling Haaland…
Top footballers have the financial muscle to indulge their wildest horological dreams. But I’m often surprised at how predictable their picks tend to be. When perusing the wrists of the stars of the Premier League or Serie A, the likes of Rolex and Patek Philippe invariably make regular appearances while a Royal Oak or Richard Mille … ContinuedThe post You’ll never guess the watch of footballing wonderkid Erling Haaland… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon: The Blues Have Never Been So Joyful - Reprise
De Bethune’s watches can be equally as technical and eyebrow-raising on the outside as they are on the inside. Nonetheless, Elizabeth Doerr is still surprised every single time that she catches a glimpse of one of the Kind of Blue beauties: the depth, shimmer, and shine of this particular color is mesmerizing. And surely not only to her. Find out how she felt wearing one of these for a while!
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499
Sotheby’s just concluded the first sale of the spring auction season, which now moves to Geneva with a series of auctions in the Swiss city starting the first weekend of May. The season opened strongly with several records set at Sotheby’s, most notably with The Nevadian Collector, a sale of Patek Philippe timepieces all owned by an American collector. Made up of 38 watches and one lot of vintage Gay Freres bracelets, the auction was led by an unsurprising favourite that sold for a record price – the possibly unique ref. 2499 in pink gold with a dial signed “Gobbi Milano”. Sotheby’s consultant Sam Hines bringing the hammer down on the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” Four telephone bidders competed for the watch, with bidding swift and aggressive. One of the bidders went big early on, taking the bid from HK$19 million to HK$30 million with one bid – an increment of about US$1.4 million. Eventually one of the phone bidders triumphed and set the record for the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction. The pink ref. 2499 “Gobbi” hammered for HK$50 million, resulting in a total of HK$60.265 million including the buyer’s premium. That’s equivalent to about US$7.68 million, making it the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction by some margin. The last record holder was the ref. 2499 “Asprey” that sold in 2018 for about US$ 4 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva – which was also sold by the Nevadian. While the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” was the headline lot,...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater
Hublot is all about material innovation and each year they continue to step it up. This Watches & Wonders, for example, they expanded their sapphire portfolio by adding the colour purple. But while it seems Hublot can bring something new each release cycle with ease, each effort is, of course, the fruit of extensive labour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.