Deployant
New: Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork Orange Carbon
Another newish (est 2017) independent brand Bianchet releases a new version of their only watch - the Tourbillon B1.618 now in Orange Openwork.
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Deployant
Another newish (est 2017) independent brand Bianchet releases a new version of their only watch - the Tourbillon B1.618 now in Orange Openwork.
Deployant
A new (est 2018) French independent Depancel releases the Serie-A Stradale, a new neo-vintage inspired meca-quartz chronograph.
SJX Watches
Continuing the brand’s well-known intentions to liven up the Calatrava, Patek Philippe unveiled a brand-new take on its quintessential dress watch at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, the Calatrava ref. 5226G-01. The ref. 5226G indicates where the Calatrava line is going – more contemporary design, albeit still informed by vintage models hence the faux vintage lume, which is enhanced with sharper and higher quality detailing. Despite an entry-level watch of sorts (despite a substantial price tag), the ref. 5226G is nonetheless elaborately executed. The hobnail decoration found on last year’s ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”, for instance, has been repurposed and applied to the case band. The dial gets a pronounced grained finish And the case a clous de Paris decoration Initial thoughts I first encountered the ref. 5226G in larger-than-life format when it appeared on the floor-to-ceiling display on the side of Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders. The scale of the projection meant the patterned dial and hobnail case were instantly obvious. Though unexpected elements in an entry-level Patek Philippe, they work well together, both on screen and in real life. Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2022 with its oversized digital display. Image – Watches & Wonders When I tried on the watch during the fair, my positive impression was reinforced. Even though the ref. 5226G is a combination of elements not usually put together, it is compelling and appealing in the metal. ...
Hodinkee
This hefty, vintage-inspired platinum watch comes in handy in our watch-related movie of the week.
SJX Watches
Launched earlier this year as a follow-up to the time-only PRX, the PRX Automatic Chronograph is a natural evolution for the line-up. But unlike its little brother, the chronograph is not modelled on a vintage model, making it more creative, though it still retains the same styling as the base model. Being more complicated than the time-and-date version, the PRX Chronograph is expectedly wider and taller – it is rather bulky in fact – but it is surprisingly appealing in the metal. Plus the PRX Chronograph is also affordable and well priced. The PRX Chronograph ticks a lot of boxes, so we test drove the watch for a couple days to see if its appeal endured. Initial thoughts When I put the PRX Chronograph on my wrist, I instantly found it more appealing than most of Tissot’s offerings. In fact, the chronograph is even more appealing than last year’s time-only PRX. That was unexpected because the time-only model seems to do better on paper. The original PRX is smaller, thinner, plus it has a patterned dial, all desirable features in an integrated-bracelet sports watch. But it is perhaps those very features that might seem like shortcomings – the simpler design and large size – that make the chronograph appealing. Many Tissot watches are over-designed, but despite being one of the more complicated watches in the Tissot catalogue, the PRX Chronograph is just right. Any more and it might have been too much. At the same time, it’s exactly the size that gives the chr...
Time+Tide
Provenance is a huge buzzword in the watch world and refers to an object’s origin and record of ownership. The romantic side to timepieces, and a crucial element of what draws collectors to vintage timepieces, are the stories they tell and the lives they have lived. We have seen watches owned by Paul Newman, Marlon … ContinuedThe post A rare pocket watch gifted by Abraham Lincoln after a shipwreck rescue is up for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A watch that commemorates the World Athletics Championships 2022 and Seiko's rich chronograph history.
Quill & Pad
The Le Mans Classic is the world’s largest gathering of its kind, hosting 8,500 vintage cars grouped by brand and model from automobile clubs around Europe. Richard Mille returned as main sponsor and official timekeeper of the event for the tenth time running. Here's an eyewitness report.
Deployant
Zenith unveils its second Defy Extreme E Special Edition during the Island X Prix in Sardinia. The Island X Prix is raced from July 6-7 and 9-10, 2022.
Time+Tide
You’d think that Doxa has covered most of the spectrum with their colour options - everything from bold oranges and yellows to toned-down silvers and blacks. For Watches and Wonders 2022, however, the Swiss manufacturer introduces a brand new colour to their lineup - the Doxa Whitepearl collection. Presenting as highly contrasting references with optional colour-matched … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Doxa does everything white and it works appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: These videos for our Every Watch Tells A Story series were filmed off-the-cuff at the Time+Tide Club Christmas party. Here, Editor Luke tells the story about how he lost his watch and learned that “vintage” is sometime just a euphemism for old and decrepit. At the end of 2018, I quit my day … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “My Vacheron had disappeared from my wrist” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
How much does a Patek Philippe Nautilus cost? How will Nautilus prices evolve? Answering these questions, as relevant as they are, has become extremely difficult following the bubble formed in the luxury men’s watch market. This article analyzes the price history of 31 Patek Philippe Nautilus models, revealing the models that have gained an absolute value, the most dramatic relative increases, and the influence of case and bracelet material.
Quill & Pad
As a reminder that Ian Skellern is getting old, it seems like it was only yesterday that Urwerk was a brash young startup, however 2022 sees the brand celebrating its 25th anniversary. For him, the one timepiece that encapsulates the most of Urwerk in one watch is the incredible UR-112 Aggregat.
Deployant
Introducing the fourth Louis Erard collaboration for 2022 - the Louis Erard x Massena LAB Le Régulateur, available in two dial variants.
Quill & Pad
Château Pontet-Canet is a Fifth Growth in the 1855 Classification, but for the last 15 years has been considered the equivalent of a top Second Growth. Ken Gargett is a big fan of the 2015 vintage.
Deployant
We take a look at one of the most interesting timepieces in 2022, in the form of a 3D printed watch by SEVENFRIDAY. Cue the Free-D.
SJX Watches
Longtime Patek Philippe retailer in Singapore Cortina Watch marks its 50th anniversary in 2022 with a series of limited edition watches, including the Calatrava ref. 5057G, a remake a 1997 reference created expressly for Cortina by Patek Philippe. But besides the 100-piece ref. 5057G, Patek Philippe created something even more special for the occasion, the Dome Clock ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”. Like most Dome Clocks, the Singapore Skyline is a unique piece decorated entirely in enamel, primarily cloisonné but also gold powder and paillons. The clock bears a commemorative engraving on its base The 50th anniversary clock is not for sale, instead it will join Cortina’s own collection that already includes the Dome Clock ref. 1677M “The Esplanade – Singapore”. Created in 2015 for Singapore’s 50th year of independence, the “Esplanade” Dome Clock served as inspiration for the Singapore Skyline – together the two Dome Clocks form a perfect pair. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe may be most famous today for its sports watches, but its Dome Clocks are just as emblematic of the brand. In terms of large-format timekeepers the Dome Clock is amongst the most recognisable in horology, ranking alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos and Cartier Mystery Clock as an iconic design. At the same time, Dome Clocks are exceedingly rare, with perhaps a dozen made every year. Within Patek Philippe’s repertoire of timepieces, Dome Clocks are the most artistic. Each Do...
Quill & Pad
At Watches and Wonders 2022, Martin Green was impressed with the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer, a striking watch with a yellow gold case and a forest-green dial. So he made a little video for Instagram that went viral. Here he explains why.
Hodinkee
Colors abound in this limited edition timepiece from the brand that built itself around the term, "vintage-inspired."
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Eric Wind is one of the world’s foremost vintage watch experts and the owner of Wind Vintage. In this interview, he tells the amazing tale of how he acquired and restored the Rolex Explorer of rodeo cowboy and bull-riding champion, Gary Leffew – a watch that had an unfortunate run-in with a 2000lb … ContinuedThe post What happened when a rodeo cowboy’s Rolex Explorer met a 2000lb bull… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s just concluded the first sale of the spring auction season, which now moves to Geneva with a series of auctions in the Swiss city starting the first weekend of May. The season opened strongly with several records set at Sotheby’s, most notably with The Nevadian Collector, a sale of Patek Philippe timepieces all owned by an American collector. Made up of 38 watches and one lot of vintage Gay Freres bracelets, the auction was led by an unsurprising favourite that sold for a record price – the possibly unique ref. 2499 in pink gold with a dial signed “Gobbi Milano”. Sotheby’s consultant Sam Hines bringing the hammer down on the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” Four telephone bidders competed for the watch, with bidding swift and aggressive. One of the bidders went big early on, taking the bid from HK$19 million to HK$30 million with one bid – an increment of about US$1.4 million. Eventually one of the phone bidders triumphed and set the record for the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction. The pink ref. 2499 “Gobbi” hammered for HK$50 million, resulting in a total of HK$60.265 million including the buyer’s premium. That’s equivalent to about US$7.68 million, making it the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction by some margin. The last record holder was the ref. 2499 “Asprey” that sold in 2018 for about US$ 4 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva – which was also sold by the Nevadian. While the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” was the headline lot,...
WatchAdvice
The Watch That Changed My Mind On TAG! What we love: Comfortable and easy to wear, light for its size and specsBang for buck in finish, movement and specsGood looking design with vintage ques What we don’t love: Wears on the larger size for a 42mm mainly due to its heightNoisy movement and winding rotor (some may like this though)Some wearers may find the dial harder to read at a glance with the lack of contrast in the numerals Overall rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5 / 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Tag Heuer has always been one of those brands that never grabbed my attention. I always saw it as a watch brand that was a little overpriced, and like a lot of brands, you’re paying for more marketing than the watch itself. Now, I have owned a Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer01 in the past, so I’m not adverse to TAG at all, but it has since moved on to make way for others in my collection. So when I had the opportunity to get my hands on the new 60th Anniversary limited edition Autavia Flyback Chronograph, I was looking forward to road testing the latest iteration of the distinguished Autavia line. A Short History Lesson Before we go any further, let’s take a step back and in case you’re not familiar with the Autavia model and its history, here’s a quick refresh. The Autavia wristwatch collection, the first product launched under the leadership of Jack Heuer 60 years ago, got its name from two pillars of TAG Heuer’s history: Automobile and Av...
Quill & Pad
Rarely has the term sports watch been as appropriate as when applied to the BR 03-94 Multimeter from Bell & Ross. This nifty chronograph displays five different scales on the dial to measure various things. In that sense, it is a modern-day version of the vintage chronographs with “snail scales” that did the same, though not in such an elaborate way.
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s is kicking off the spring season of the year’s watch auctions with two consecutive sales in Hong Kong that take place in a week’s time. The first is an evening sale of a single-owner collection of exceptional vintage Patek Philippe watches. And it will be followed by Important Watches I, which includes several good examples of independent watchmaking. Though the single-owner sale has most of the significant vintage Patek Philippe watches offered by Sotheby’s, it doesn’t encompass all of them. One of the major lots is a Patek Philippe ref. 2524 minute repeating wristwatch. We take a look at that along with several other highlights from Important Watches I, both vintage and modern, including an arguably underrated complicated (and bejewelled) watch for men by Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;). Important Watches I starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The VC&A; Midnight Poetic Wish Lot 2144: Rolex Daytona ref. 16523 “Floating” signed “Tiffany & Co.” The most desirable Rolex Daytonas are typically steel, with the two-tone versions often being the most affordable, perhaps because the two-tone look is generally less sought after regardless of brand. But this steel-and-gold ref. 16523 is notable enough that it was included in Daytona Perpetual, the reference tome covering many rare and unusual variants of the model published by Italian Rolex specialist Pucci Papaleo. The key fe...
Time+Tide
START YOUR ENGINES: In 2018, we had a little dalliance with the brand that used to inhabit our HQ space, and now lives next door: Royal Enfield. Basically, we had a few beers one afternoon and found some matte-black, lightly modded common ground between watches and vintage-inspired bikes. The result: a Time+Tide motorcycle, later raffled off … ContinuedThe post William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In 1995 Piaget, who was then part of the Vendôme group that would later become Richemont, entered the highest segment of the watch market by releasing a grande sonnerie wristwatch developed by François-Paul Journe. At the time, Journe was a freelance movement designer and hadn’t officially founded F.P. Journe yet.
Quill & Pad
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will hold the Geneva Watch Auction XV in Switzerland on May 7 and 8, 2022. What’s particularly interesting about Phillips’ traditional late spring auction this year is that it is preceded by an “appetizer” on May 6, the Royal Oak 50th auction with a catalogue so rich it could arguably serve as the main course. Brendan Cunningham went to the New York City preview and shares a few of his highlights with us here.
SJX Watches
Launched in 2007, Top Gun is IWC’s line up of all-ceramic pilot’s watches. But since its inauguration over a decade ago, the Top Gun has largely relied on a singular colour of ceramic – black in either a matte or glossy finish. IWC did offer a few models with coloured ceramic cases, but they were limited editions, until now. At Watches & Wonders 2022 IWC revealed ceramic cases in white or green with a pair of Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition – both regular production models. Instantly evoking stormtroopers from Star Wars, the “Lake Tahoe” edition has a case of white ceramic, while the “Woodland” edition is in forest-green ceramic. Both are 43.5 mm in diameter and contain the in-house cal. 69380. The two new models double the range of ceramic colours offered by IWC. They join the Pilot’s Watch “Mojave” editions launched in 2019 that had an unusual sand-coloured ceramic case, and last year’s “Laureus Sport for Good” in blue ceramic. “Woodland” Initial thoughts Long the brand’s bestselling line, the Pilot’s Watch has been a focus of IWC in recent few years. The brand has made safe bets with iterating on popular models that have received upgrades such as in-house movements, new dial colours, or more compact cases in new materials. In comparison the latest pair of chronographs are more adventurous. Intrinsically interesting because of their colours, the white and green ceramic cases are relatively uncommon for chronographs in this ...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer is injecting advanced materials technology into what was the most affordable tourbillon-chronograph on the market, creating the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. The new watch makes liberal use of carbon in all its forms, most notably with a carbon-composite hairspring along with a dial and crown made entirely of synthetic diamond, reflecting chief executive Frederic Arnault’s interest in technology and industrial processes. Priced at the equivalent of US$375,000, the Plasma is the first luxury mechanical watch to utilise artificial, or lab-grown, diamonds. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has developed a suite of cutting-edge technology unusual a brands in its price range, though the brand’s most significant innovation, the carbon-composite hairspring, has never really gotten the recognition it deserves. While extremely expensive and slated to be produced in tiny numbers – just a handful a year according to Mr Arnault – the Plasma will certain broadcast TAG Heuer’s accomplishments in innovation, as well as that of its in synthetic diamond suppliers. While lab-grown diamonds aren’t new, they have never before been used in high-end watch. As befits their unconventional status, the synthetic diamonds have been set in an abstract manner on the case, as opposed to typical gem setting. Combined with the synthetic diamond dial and crown, the result is a watch that is weird yet compelling. But more important than the decorative use of synthetic diamond is the...
Hodinkee
The new range of shades at Watches & Wonder 2022 proves it.
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