WristBuzz
AP's Code 11.59 Gets Stone Dials in Gold Obsidian and Onyx, and They're Actually Pretty Convincing
Two new 38 mm references lean into the mineral dial trend, pairing natural stone with yellow and pink gold cases
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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SJX Watches
Insight: Modern Escapement Developments Part I
Mechanical escapements have long captured the hearts of enthusiasts and the minds of watchmakers tasked with improving them. Escapement development remains a steady leitmotif throughout the horological industry, even though novel escapements are only launched seldomly. But there’s been a flurry of activity recently. Just last year, Rolex unveiled a proprietary silicon escapement and Breguet launched a highly advanced magnetic Swiss lever, revealing a glimpse of the exciting research and development work that’s being done by the industry’s leading industrial powerhouses. The most radical take on the Swiss lever, Breguet’s magnetic constant force escapement. At the other end of the spectrum, we see more and more independent watchmakers going to great lengths to develop new escapements or provide fresh takes on history’s lesser known variants. Smaller players are naturally more resource-constrained, and their results tend to be rooted in traditional manufacturing techniques. That said, clever independents retain the capacity to produce surprising innovations. This two-part series offers a comprehensive look at the major escapement innovations of the last few decades, which range from products of industrial technology to innovations championed by craftsmen. We begin by examining classical escapement designs that would have been familiar to past generations, which have been modernised to suit the demands of the wristwatch. Natural escapement Between the dominanc...
Teddy Baldassarre
Atelier Wen Inflection Tantalum Review: An Unexpected Integrated Bracelet Watch
Tantalum construction, Beijing-made enamel dials, and a Girard-Perregaux movement give the brand’s flagship a look all its own.More
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Five New Code 11.59 and Royal Oak Models
Audemars Piguet’s latest releases continue its embrace of the stone dial trend while revisiting one of the brand’s signature complications. The Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38 mm gains a pair of mineral stone dials in gold obsidian and onyx, while the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie returns in titanium and, for the first time, 18k pink gold. Completing the line-up is the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie, now in 18k white gold with a smoked sapphire dial that reveals the striking mechanics of the cal. 2953. All five watches are variations of established models, with the changes concentrated on materials, colours, and dial finishes. But there is variety within the familiar formats, particularly among the repeaters. Initial thoughts Audemars Piguet’s latest releases represent selections from near the top and bottom of the brand’s model hierarchy, updated in terms of materials and colour. In this sense, none of the new models are particularly surprising, especially considering the brand’s ongoing rollout of watches with natural stone dials. The mineral-and-baguette format of the pink gold 38 mm Code 11.59, for example, mirrors that of two 41 mm models launched previously with malachite and sodalite dials. The trio of Supersonnerie models are likewise variants of existing models, extending both the Royal Oak and Code 11.59’s collections of chiming watches equipped with the brand’s proprietary approach to sound amplification. First unveiled a decade ago, ...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 Strikes Gold
Audemars Piguet continues its embrace of the stone dial trend with two new versions of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38 mm. One pairs yellow gold with gold obsidian, its dark surface enlivened by shimmering mineral inclusions; the other combines pink gold with mirror-polished black onyx and baguette-cut diamond markers. Neither breaks new ground, but both put the Code 11.59’s restrained dial layout to good use, leaving the stone to do most of the work. They retain the compact dimensions of the existing 38 mm model, but dispense with the date thanks to the automatic cal. 5909. Initial thoughts Neither model is particularly surprising given Audemars Piguet’s ongoing rollout of watches with natural stone dials. The mineral-and-baguette format of the pink gold 38 mm Code 11.59, for example, mirrors that of two 41 mm models launched previously with malachite and sodalite dials. The restrained dial layout of the Code 11.59 gives the stone room to stand out, while the 38 mm case suits the dressier character of these variations. The two treatments offer different kinds of appeal. The obsidian model relies on texture and glittering gold flecks, while the onyx version is more formal, with a uniformly black surface that emphasises the baguette-cut diamond markers. At US$57,500 in yellow gold or US$68,500 in pink gold with diamond indices, however, both represent a substantial premium over the standard 38 mm models for what is essentially an aesthetic upgrade. That said, they are pri...
Deployant
Hands-on Review: LOTH Watch 1 by Independent Watchmaker Tristan Ho
We go hands-on with the LOTH Watch 1, the first commercial watch by Singapore independent watchmaker Tristan Ho, and visit his home atelier to explore its creation and philosophy.
Fratello
Audemars Piguet Introduces Three Supersonnerie Watches And Two Stone-Dial Code 11.59 Models
Audemars Piguet expands its Royal Oak and Code 11.59 collections with five new references that explore two very different aspects of the manufacture’s watchmaking. Three new Minute Repeater Supersonnerie models showcase its work in acoustic engineering, while two 38mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding watches introduce natural stone dials in gold obsidian and black onyx. The releases […] Visit Audemars Piguet Introduces Three Supersonnerie Watches And Two Stone-Dial Code 11.59 Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - H. Moser & Cie. Drops Two Heritage Models, Including a new Chronograph
When thinking about indie brand H. Moser & Cie., you might have either the integrated Streamliner, the sporty Pioneer or the elegant Endeavour collections in mind. There is, however, another range that should be mentioned: a more discreet range with vintage-inspired design cues, the Heritage. Defined by its drum-shaped case with wire-like lugs, it makes […]
Time+Tide
Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical gives Modern Warfare 4 a suitably hardcore tribute
We go hands-on with the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical COD, exploring its tactical design, textured dial and everyday wearability.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Indies Step Up for Charity with Watches for ELA
Watches for ELA brings together a selection of charitable lots within Christie’s upcoming Rare Watches auction on November 9th in Geneva. Proceeds will benefit the European Leukodystrophies Association (ELA), which supports research into leukodystrophies and helps families affected by these rare genetic diseases. François-Henri Pinault, scion of the family that owns Christie’s, is a board member and longtime supporter of ELA. One of the most notable lots is football great Zinedine Zidane’s personal Cartier Pasha, donated as part of his longstanding commitment to the European charity. While his contribution is a watch he has owned for decades, the other watches on offer were created as unique pieces specifically for Watches for ELA. Zinedine Zidane’s personal Cartier Pasha Lot 130 – Atælier Haute Complication Dual Time Art for ELA Vladimir Victor Négault founded Atælier Haute Complication in 2018 after 14 years at F.P. Journe, where his work in the research and development department included building 3D models and animations of the brand’s movements. This was an unusually advantageous training ground for the aspiring independent, who struck out on his own in 2018. Launched in 2022, the brand’s debut watch offered an unusual take on the dual time complication. Its proprietary hand-wound calibre was based on the going train of the proven Peseux 7001, but with a unique bridge architecture and dual time display. The 41 mm stainless steel ELA edition relocates...
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
Still a Dive Watch Benchmark Years Later - Tudor Pelagos 42mm Black Dial
Today we’re looking at Tudor’s standard-bearer professional dive watch family with the Tudor Pelagos. Specifically, the 42mm black-dialed titanium Pelagos, the definitive iteration of the model family that has become a collector favorite since its introduction in 2012. Nothing like it existed in the Tudor lineup before
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Turtle vs Orient Mako II: Which Budget Dive Watch Is Worth Your Money?
We put the Seiko Turtle and Orient Mako II head-to-head, examining build quality, movement performance, and whether Seiko's higher price delivers enough to justify it.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Five Indie Watchmakers Making a Solid Impression with their Debut Watches
Not too long ago, just before summer, in fact, I lined up a series of new and rather impressive independent watchmakers for you to discover. A recurring topic, it remains at our very core, and because of this, we’re always on the lookout for new and exciting projects, people and brands. It’s a segment we […]
Fratello
Should You Upgrade Your Existing Watch Instead Of Buying A New One?
A while back, a 39mm Tudor Ranger on loan from Rolex Australia arrived for review. I expected to spend two weeks writing about its dial and movement, as usual. Instead, I kept coming back to the bracelet — specifically, its clasp. Compared with the one on my Black Bay 58, it felt like a significant […] Visit Should You Upgrade Your Existing Watch Instead Of Buying A New One? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Arsène Lippens adds two new dial options and display case backs to its Artigiano collection
The Arsène Lippens Artigiano Collection introduces new Italian textile dials, updated casebacks and refined details across its five models.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Datejust 36 “Ombré” Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB015 “Lake Suwa”
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! The days are getting shorter and colder in this part of the world, but that won’t stop our writers’ burning horological passion. This week, Jorg and Daan decided to pit the ombré-dial Rolex Datejust 36 and Grand Seiko SLGB015 “Lake Suwa” against each other. Both watches […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Datejust 36 “Ombré” Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB015 “Lake Suwa” to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rolex Air-King vs Orient Bambino: Can an Affordable Watch Replace a Vintage Rolex?
From Rolex's refined 34mm Oyster case to Orient's affordable automatic movement, we explore the differences in quality, everyday wearability, and ownership.
Worn & Wound
Recapping Fossil Signature’s Launch at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026
Fossil’s new Signature Collection made its debut at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026, with a behind-the-scenes film, a Q&A; with Senior Creative Director Ryan White, and the first chance to get the watches on the wrist in the Fossil Signature Lounge. Fossil is taking a fresh swing at enthusiast watchmaking with Signature CS-1, a new collection built around thoughtful design, elevated materials, and Swiss craftsmanship. Launched at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026, the collection brings Fossil’s distinctive design sensibility to a new premium watch platform. And we got to kick things off with a morning dedicated to the people who matter most: the watch enthusiasts who showed up ready to see what it was all about. A week before the fair, we shared a behind-the-scenes look at the creation of the Fossil Signature Collection, filmed at Fossil’s Dallas headquarters with Ryan. We also extended an invitation: come watch the film with us, here from Ryan directly, and get your hands on the watches before the rest of the fair got underway. The Screening Before Windup opened its doors on Saturday and Sunday, we gathered for the premiere of our short documentary, tracing the collection from its first spark of inspiration to the finished pieces. Seeing it on a big screen is one thing. Seeing it in a room full of people who care about how watches get made is something else entirely. The Q&A; Next, our Head of Partnerships, Kyle Snarr, sat down with Ryan for a conversation that picked up right wh...
Worn & Wound
Remember You Must Die: 12 Skull Watches to Keep Your Mortality in Check
While the idea of a skull watch might sound like a kitschy Halloween-themed novelty, they actually run deep in horological history, dating back to pocket watches of the 17th century in the memento mori tradition of reminding you of your own mortality. However, these were not the skull dial timepieces we think of today but instead “form” watches that, like the name states, take a shape beyond a traditional round timekeeper. In the case of the skull form, they typically shared a similar blueprint with the jaw unhinged, exposing the dial on the underside or roof of the mouth. Today, we see many watchmakers continuing in this tradition, shifting away from form watches and extending the imagery to dial designs, some of which are achieved by simple painting while others more closely echo the form watches with sculptural elements – here are a dozen of them. Bell & Ross Laughing Skull Bell & Ross steps out of its aviation roots with a series of skull watches adopting the skull and crossbones motif also known as the Jolly Roger. Here, the brand takes its signature square watch case to lay the foundation for the design, which extends across the dial and bezel. The piece comes to life thanks to a mechanical jaw automaton that moves up and down to mimic laughter when you wind the watch. Bomberg Edge Skulls Mosaic For Bomberg, the skull motif is not just a one off for a special edition collection – its core imagery featured prominently across several of the brand’s major line...
Monochrome
Interview - Giving Artisans and Young Watchmakers a Platform - In Conversation with Baudouin Van Es of Tad Kozh
When Baudouin van Es set out to establish Tad Kozh, the goal was not simply to produce another limited-edition luxury timepiece. Instead, it was conceived as an incubator for heritage craftsmanship and a springboard for the next generation of independent watchmakers. By pairing independent manufactures with master artisans – giving those craftspeople full artistic carte […]
WristBuzz
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur: Antiqua DNA at a Price You Can Actually Consider
The latest Louis Erard collaboration channels Vianney Halter's iconic Antiqua perpetual calendar into a dual-movement regulator that costs a fraction of the original
SJX Watches
Hands On: Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur
Louis Erard has become adept at translating the design language of pricey independent watchmaking into affordable watches, and the best proof of that is the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur. Modelled on the Vianney Halter Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Futur Anterieur is a regulator-style watch powered by two separate automatic movements. Named after Vianney Halter’s collection of steampunk watches, Futur Antérieur is Louis Erard’s third outing with the independent watchmaker, and is arguably a more sophisticated version of the preceding collaboration. While both share the same inspiration, the Futur Antérieur tangibly embodies the Antiqua, reproducing the feel of the original at a fraction of the price. Initial thoughts The Futur Antérieur is clearly an affordable watch that is not an Antiqua, but it is appealing. It captures the ambience of the Antiqua well. The shape is similar, and even the feel on the wrist. In this price segment this stands out as one of the more interesting offerings. Though this costs more than preceding collaboration editions, this is arguably better value. More broadly, the Futur Antérieur illustrates the growing sophistication of Louis Erard’s collaborations. They started as stock models with a new dial superimposed, while the Futur Anterieur is a new model conceived from the ground up. It’s also worth noting the details that replicate the Antiqua, like the chamfered edges on the case and bezel, and the stepped, two-to...
Deployant
New Oct 26: Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur
Vianney Halter collaborates with Louis Erard once again and introduces the Futur Antérieur: a watch looking like an Antiqua. Discover the watch.
WristBuzz
Glashütte Original Senator Aventurine: Two Dials That Actually Sparkle
Platinum, red gold, and aventurine glass - Glashütte Original strips the Senator back to let the dial do all the talking
Time+Tide
AP launches its CPO with restrictions and Norman Foster designs a watch
For the news you may have missed this week in the watch world, we have you covered from vintage news to under-the-radar releases.
SJX Watches
Stopping Time: Rare Rolex Chronos with Pucci Papaleo Provenance
This November, Phillips will present Stopping Time, a selection of 16 Rolex chronographs owned by collector and publisher Pucci Papaleo, as part of The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV, taking place on November 7 and 8 at the Hotel President Wilson. The selection is the first instalment of Mr Papaleo’s collection of approximately 70 Rolex chronographs, dating from the 1930s to the 1970s – and all in outstanding condition and some can even be rightly described as “unpolished”. Phillips presents these 16 watches as a compact survey of the Rolex chronograph: early pieces made before the Oyster chronograph was established, the waterproof chronographs of the 1940s and 1950s, and finally the Cosmograph Daytona. The Rolex ref. 6239 of about 1969 with the “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial, lot 22. Image – SJX composite/Phillips The publisher becomes a collector To say that Mr Papaleo loves vintage Rolex is an understatement — he even gave his children watch-inspired names. Besides building an impressive collection of vintage Rolex, Mr Papaleo contributed to horological knowledge as a publisher and has produced a number of reference books regularly cited in auction catalogues. Pucci Papaleo and his Rolex ref. 3233 being offered by Phillips. Image – SJX composite/Phillips His interest in watches grew out of his work in publishing. He began his career managing a small publishing house of his own, making guidebooks to Rome, Venice, and Milan, always with fine photographs. By hi...
Hodinkee
In Partnership - Dialed In: Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes Global
When Seiko introduced its first dedicated sports watch, the Laurel Alpinist, in 1959, it was designed to provide reliable, legible timekeeping for outdoor enthusiasts amid Japan's postwar boom in activities such as hiking and skiing. The name "Laurel" paid homage to Seiko's first wristwatch, produced in Japan in 1913. Built to withstand harsh outdoor conditions, the watch featured an airtight screw-down case back to keep out dust and sand, wedge-shaped indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock for legibility, a 17-jewel hand-wound movement, and a leather strap pad to protect the case from sweat. In 1995, Seiko expanded the Alpinist's capabilities with an inner rotating compass ring, controlled by a second crown at four o'clock. Wearers could use the hour hand and the sun to determine cardinal directions, aligning the "S" marker halfway between the hour hand and 12 o'clock. The updated model also offered 20-bar water resistance, reinforcing its role as a robust field watch built for demanding use. Several design details introduced with the 1995 model remain central to the Alpinist today. Although it was offered in several dial colors, the distinctive green version became a lasting favorite. Green was an unconventional choice at the time, and Seiko initially expected the color to struggle commercially. Seiko introduced mechanical GMT models in 2023. While the blue and black versions (SPB377 and SPB379) launched globally, the coveted sunray green dial version was initially reserved ...
Monochrome
Introducing - Citizen Brings Damascus Steel and Forged Carbon to a new Series 8 GMT
With its Series 8 collection of mechanical watches, Citizen has been delivering rather impressive models over the years, with the GMT collection being possibly the most appealing of them. Not only is it powered by a true GMT automatic movement (something rare in this price range), but Citizen has dared to bring singular designs, colours […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Grand Seiko Influence Shows Up in Christopher Ward’s New Automatic Watch
Christopher Ward brings Grand Seiko-style dials to the Sealander Yalos, with a slimmer case, refined details, and an automatic movement.
SJX Watches
Habring² and SJX Reunite for a Finale with CFP “Star”
Our third and final collaboration with Habring² brings together the stellar motif of the Erwin “Star” and the monopusher chronograph format of the Chrono-Felix “Medicus”, adding a perpetual calendar to create our most complicated collaboration yet. Limited to 30 pieces, the Habring² x SJX Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star” pairs a glossy black dial with applied gold stars and a matching gilded moon phase display, all housed in a compact 38.5 mm stainless steel case. The key facts A vintage-inspired, perpetual calendar monopusher chronograph Piano-black dial with eight applied star-shaped hour markers inspired by vintage Rolex “Galaxy” dials Gold-plated moon phase disc at 12 o’clock with a textured moon and stars Hand-wound Habring² A11CP movement combining the A11 chronograph base with a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module Chronograph pusher doubles as the day-of-the-week corrector Steel parts of the chronograph mechanism finished by German independent watchmaker Pöhlmann-Bresan Compact steel case measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and 13 mm high Triple-stepped bezel accommodates the perpetual calendar module “Star” motif repeated on the individually numbered case back and buckle Limited to 30 pieces total Priced at US$28,500 before taxes Concluding the trilogy The “CFP” formula is self-explanatory but uncommon: a hand-wound monopusher chronograph combined with a perpetual calendar, all executed in the compact, practical manner that defines the work...