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Auction: Christie’s Auction to Benefit Medical Charity ELA SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Swatch Oct 7, 2024

Auction: Christie’s Auction to Benefit Medical Charity ELA

Christie’s has just announced Watches for ELA, a thematic auction of 11 watches, mostly one-of-a-kind, to benefit the European Leukodystrophy Association (ELA), which supports research into the disorder. The brands that have created watches for the sale include Bovet, Konstantin Chaykin, Girard-Perregaux, Swatch, and most crucially from a value perspective, Richard Mille. While Christie’s is best known for staging Only Watch, a biennial charity auction, the ELA auction is notable for being the brainchild of François-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of French luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns brands like Gucci and Balenciaga. Mr Pinault is on the board of ELA, while Christie’s is owned privately by the Pinault family. Each timepiece in the ELA auction is offered without reserve, with all proceeds going to ELA. The sale takes place on November 11, 2024 as part of Christie’s customary Rare Watches auction. The catalogue and online bidding will be available at end October. Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph Dark Yellow Quartz TPT The flagship offering in the sale, and the only watch with a six figure estimate, the RM 65-01 is one of the most complicated Richard Mille watches, the RM 65-01 is powered by a high-frequency, self-winding rattrapante chronograph movement made by Vaucher. This example is part of a 120-piece limited edition that’s the latest iteration of the RM 65-01. It sports yellow Quartz TPT carbon composite case and is th...

The best affordable transparent watches that easily show of their value proposition Time+Tide
Oct 4, 2024

The best affordable transparent watches that easily show of their value proposition

Transparent watches are often split into two categories – the cheap, plastic stuff that you find in the toy section or invisible paragons of crystal clarity, unattainable by mere mortals like you and I. And even though brands like Code41 and ArtyA have been making cool sapphire-cased watches with high-end movements more affordable recently, spending … ContinuedThe post The best affordable transparent watches that easily show of their value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph Worn & Wound
Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph When Sep 30, 2024

Introducing the Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph

When I think of Louis Erard, two things tend to spring to mind: regulators and collaborations. As a brand, they have mastered each of these, and they have contributed to some of my favorite releases in recent years (the brand’s whimsical collaborations with Alain Silberstein spring to mind as a high watermark). The consequence of this success is it can be easy to ignore the other things Louis Erard does well. With the new Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph, the brand is trying to remind us. When compared with mother-of-pearl dialed regulators, this latest trio of limited edition sports watches - each of which will be available in a “99-piece limited edition numbered in multiples of 3” - is a more down-the-middle release than we’re used to seeing from Louis Erard. But as one might expect from the brand, a closer look will reveal Louis Erard’s signature touch. On its surface, the 2300 Sport Chronograph is a fairly by-the-number Valjoux 7750-powered sports chronograph, with a large case (44mm across, 52.4mm lug-to-lug, and 15mm thick in well-finished Grade 5 Titanium) reminiscent of straight-lug Speedies and Carreras, a black ceramic bezel, and the very familiar 6-9-12 layout with day and date that most often accompanies the iconic movement. But the signature Louis Erard touch is there and, as with so many of their other watches, the magic here comes with the dial. When you take a moment to step back and think about it, chronograph dials - with their multiple ...

The New Leica Q3 43mm Has Arrived: Hands-On Impressions From Camera West Worn & Wound
Sep 26, 2024

The New Leica Q3 43mm Has Arrived: Hands-On Impressions From Camera West

Editor’s Note: This post on the new Leica Q3 43mm from Ben Carpenter, Director of Marketing at Camera West, appears in a longer version on the Camera West blog.  Today, Leica announced the Leica Q3 43, a highly anticipated addition to their popular Leica Q series. At Camera West and Leica Store San Francisco, we’ve long been hoping for a longer focal length in the Q lineup, and many of those that we meet through our stores have expressed the same. It’s exciting to finally see this come to fruition with the release of the Q3 43mm. The Leica Q3 43mm offers a “sweet spot” focal length between 35mm and 50mm. This seemingly odd focal length isn’t new for Leica-past cameras like the Minilux, CM, and CL featured a 40mm focal length, which have their own dedicated fan base. While the original 28mm Q lens has its enthusiasts, the 43mm provides a more compressed field of view that some photographers may prefer. Both the Q3 43mm and the Standard Q3 (28mm) share the same internal components, including the 60MP BSI sensor, autofocus system, and OLED viewfinder, but the standout feature of the Q3 43 is its 43mm f2 APO-Summicron ASPH lens, which delivers superior microcontrast and precision thanks to Leica’s advanced optical design. Details At A Glance – The Leica Q3 43mm APO-Summicron 43mm F2 lens contains 4 aspherical elements and a leaf shutter just like its predecessors ISO Range of 50-100k  60mp BSI Sensor with triple resolution technology (18/36/60MP) and 8k vid...

One of the All-Time Great Movie Watches Gets an Update: Interstellar and the Khaki Field Murph Worn & Wound
Hamilton Sep 23, 2024

One of the All-Time Great Movie Watches Gets an Update: Interstellar and the Khaki Field Murph

For as long as I can remember, movies have been my deepest obsession and primary interest. Watches came much later in comparison and followed half a dozen other deep dives into hobbies both mainstream and incredibly niche (talk to me about Scotty Cameron putters and the minute audible differences between two different brands of high end speaker cable sometime). But movies are my first love and I naturally look for connections to them in just about every other facet of life. Something a friend will say will remind me of a random piece of dialogue from some obscure 90s comedy, or a piece of music takes me back to a needle drop in a Scorsese or Wes Anderson film. And, yes, I scroll through Instagram and see watches and think about movie star ambassadors, or the films where they’ve been spotted. No brand has a longer or prouder history of being tied to the movie industry than Hamilton. Their watches have appeared in films for decades, both intentionally and accidentally, and we’ve covered much of this history at length. There’s a pattern to how these things usually work: as a movie approaches its release date, the watch brand’s PR team reaches out to websites like ours to pitch stories and introduce the watch (particularly if it’s a new variant or an entirely new watch), and that’s how these articles take shape and the watch and movie become connected in the public consciousness. The Murph, though, is a little different. Hamilton was a partner on Christopher Nolan...

Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro” Worn & Wound
Minase Sep 19, 2024

Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro”

Minase, the independent Japanese watch brand, and our friends at watch media outlet Fratello have collaborated on a third edition of the brand’s cult favorite M-3. After versions in purple and green each of the last two years, this latest release strikes a more classic and refined tone. The new M-3 “Shiro” features a white lacquered dial and some subtle but well chosen accent colors, all with an eye toward traditional Japanese craft.  “Shiro” is Japanese for white, and in Japan is historically a sacred color symbolizing spiritual and physical purity. It’s a color that is frequently worn by Japanese Emperors, and comes up frequently in Shinto rituals and traditions. For this M-3, Minase has given the dial a weave-like texture that recalls the garments that might be worn in such rituals. The dial has been coated with Japanese lacquer, and the brand promises the result is a dynamic silvery color with plenty of depth.  Other callouts to Japanese culture include the red tipped second hand, a color that symbolizes good luck. The precise shade of red chosen for this edition, “Hinomaru,” translates roughly to “circle of the sun.” And the blue strap, according to Minase and Fratello, is a tribute to Japanese denim. Fratello and Minase see parallels in high craft denim to traditional watchmaking, noting that good denim, when taken care of, is meant to last a lifetime, just like a mechanical watch.  The original impetus for the Fratello x Minase collaborations ...

Formex Introduces their New Travel Watch, the Stratos UTC Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces their New Travel Sep 13, 2024

Formex Introduces their New Travel Watch, the Stratos UTC

If you’ve chatted with the Formex team at a Windup event over the course of the last year or so, they have subtly teased their latest release, the Stratos UTC. It’s a watch that’s been in the works for some time, and a pretty big move for the brand. Formex has built a large following and an impeccable reputation in the enthusiast community through their ingenious solutions to all manner of issues pertaining to the physical case and bracelet. Their case suspension system designed to reduce the effect of shock is of course a prime example, but they’ve also developed a fantastic carbon fiber folding clasp that fits most straps and can easily adjusted on the fly, plus they make watches with interchangeable bezels, and they have a great bracelet with a simple and effective micro-adjustment capability of its own. But in terms of their movements, they’ve always been off the shelf (though chronometer certified). The Stratos changes that, introducing a clever travel complication similar to what you mind on watches well over twice the cost.  What we’re dealing with here at a high level is a watch that’s still easily recognizable as a Formex. It’s a modern, somewhat burly sports watch with an angular case that recalls the Essence design that many will be familiar with while cranking it up a notch or two in complexity. Like the Essence, we can expect the Stratos to wear small thanks to short, integrated lugs – the lug-to-lug measurement is just 46.5mm against a 41mm...

The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part III: Branding vs. Breakthroughs in Recent Years Quill & Pad
Rolex Movements Part III Branding Sep 8, 2024

The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part III: Branding vs. Breakthroughs in Recent Years

The last two decades have witnessed regular Rolex engineering advances, often in plain sight and in rapid succession. Despite these developments, Rolex remains a brand defined not by movements but by continuity, model families, and the Rolex image itself. Tim Mosso thinks that the root of Rolex’s soft-pedaled reputation for movement virtuosity lies in the company’s own branding strategy. That and more in this third installment of Rolex's history of movement technology.

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition Worn & Wound
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Sep 6, 2024

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

Moving from meeting to meeting at Geneva Watch Days, it’s easy to get lost in the opulent, luxurious novelties. But when you meet with Armin Strom, you’re brought back to a kind of pure watch nerdery that transcends the luxurious surroundings of shows like this. Armin Strom, even while producing watches that I think are objectively great looking, is all about mechanical innovation. There isn’t a watch in their collection that doesn’t have a novel mechanical trick up its sleeve. The Gravity Equal Force that Zach looked at recently is a great example. It has all the aesthetic and design trappings of what we think of as today’s modern high end indie watchmaking, but the real appeal lies in the watchmaking itself. It’s an important distinction that most enthusiasts understand intrinsically – some watches and brands just have a laser focus on engineering, and that’s sort of what sets Armin Strom apart.  The brand’s big Geneva Watch Days release is, simply put, a showstopper, and perhaps the most fascinating watch of the week. It’s certainly a significant horological accomplishment. The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition takes Armin Strom’s already unique take on the resonance concept and shrinks it down to an almost impossible to believe size in a watch that takes a completely novel approach to timekeeping and provides a great deal of practical functionality to make it downright approachable. It also just happens to be a stunning piece of horological a...

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Gets Extreme Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras

If you’d told me eighteen months ago that the TAG Heuer Carrera would, in very short order, find itself once again at the center of enthusiast interest, there’s a very good chance I’d have laughed you out of the room. And yet, here we sit, 17 months on from the release of the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and there can be no doubt - thanks in part to an expanded lineup of compelling variants of the 39mm chronograph, as well as exciting interpretations like the widely discussed and sought after Seafarer LE for HODINKEE - that TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph is one of the hottest watches on the market. But the Glassbox is only one side of the Carrera story. Now, TAG Heuer is leaning into the other side with the unveiling of a new technical chronograph. Where the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ looks to the history of the Carrera, the new Carrera Extreme Sport - introduced as a collection of six watches spread across two models: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport - present a vision of the future and a bold one at that. The two new models share a lot in common, most notably a shared aesthetic and case design. Both the Chronograph Extreme Sport and the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport measure 44mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug. Certainly not small, but also decidedly wearable for a chronograph meant to wear large. The lug-to-lug measure, in particular, is deceptively compact and shou...

Roue Adds Two New References to the TPS Collections Worn & Wound
Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement which Sep 5, 2024

Roue Adds Two New References to the TPS Collections

Since 2019, watchmakers Roue have been updating their TPS model in new colors, bringing new life to a vintage-inspired design. In the past, we have covered their releases of Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, and Seven – so you can make a pretty educated guess of what’s been released this week.  Like previous iterations of their TPS collection, the Eight and Nine are inspired by the iconic Porsche 910, winner of the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967 (a detail which can be seen on the embossed caseback of this line). The racing inspiration can be felt throughout this watch, most especially in the colorways for both new references. In Eight, you will find a gray dial with orange and yellow accents. For Nine, the tonal language is more classic, utilizing a blue dial with red and white accents. Both watches come with complementary straps which are at once sporty and a bit elegant – much like the TPS line itself. One can choose either a perforated leather Driver strap, or a sportier silicone option.  Features of this watch include a chronograph with both a tachymeter and pulsometer scale. Given the limited real estate on this 40mm case, one would think these functions might be a little squeezed into the frame, so to speak. But Roue has proven time and again that the TPS model is a great example of a perfectly proportioned dial.  The Roue TPS Eight and Nine, like previous iterations, run on a Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement, which combines the accuracy of quartz techno...

The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Sep 3, 2024

The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage

The upward trajectory of Christopher Ward in the eyes of enthusiasts and collectors has been well documented over the last few years. The Bel Canto, of course, completely changed the game for the brand, and was an announcement to the broader watchmaking community of something ardent supporters have known for quite some time: that the team at Christopher Ward is capable of real outside-the-box thinking, and has an ambition to tweak expectations far beyond that of most brands in their price range. They have periodically introduced watches since that in one way or another qualify as what you might call “statement pieces,” or watches that seem to exist for the purpose of shifting the community’s expectations around the brand. The Twelve X, introduced earlier this year, is a perfect example, and I’d also point you toward a personal favorite of mine, the C1 Moonphase, which works as an art piece the same was some of the watches created by my favorite high end independents. Their latest offering, at least on the surface, is perhaps not as paradigm shifting as any of the watches mentioned previously, but it’s still generating an awful lot of chatter online for a series of dramatic improvements to just about every feature of a core offering from Christopher Ward: the dive watch.  The Trident collection, Christopher Ward’s dive watch range, is now in its 15th year, and the new C60 Trident Lumière is described by the brand as the pinnacle of the series to date. There ar...

H. Moser & Cie. And Studio Underd0g Unveil The Fruits Of Their Shared Passion Project Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Aug 31, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. And Studio Underd0g Unveil The Fruits Of Their Shared Passion Project

Have you ever seen or heard something and said to yourself, “Why didn’t I think of that?” That’s exactly what I did when I saw the press release for this collaboration between H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g. At first glance, these brands couldn’t be any more different. The first makes high-end watches, often […] Visit H. Moser & Cie. And Studio Underd0g Unveil The Fruits Of Their Shared Passion Project to read the full article.

H. Moser and Studio Underd0g Partner on an Unlikely Collaboration Worn & Wound
H. Moser Aug 30, 2024

H. Moser and Studio Underd0g Partner on an Unlikely Collaboration

If you had any doubts that the collaboration frenzy that has gripped the watch world has cooled, the first day of Geneva Watch Days may have gone a long way toward silencing that particular intrusive thought. Not only did we see a formal alliance between Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro that we told you about yesterday, but Moser, one of our favorite high end independents, and Studio Underd0g, one of our favorite affordable independents, joined forces in an unexpected way. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and the Studio Underd0g Passion Fruit 03Series play to each brand’s unique strengths, and reveal that while it might seem like an odd match on paper, these brands really do have a lot in common.  Let’s look at the perpetual calendar first. The stainless steel Endeavour case measures 42mm in diameter and is a very wearable 12.8mm tall. The dial has a blissful, tropical quality to it, dominated by a solid gold base dial and a lacquered purple surround. It runs, of course, on the HMC manufacture caliber 800, which is simply one of the best perpetual calendar movements in the game, providing more information at a glance you are likely to realize at first.  The Passion Fruit 03Series chronograph could be the Endeavour’s twin separated at birth – it makes use of the same color combinations but transposes them to a chronograph layout. It bears a lot of similarities to the original Studio Underd0g chronos, and the “passion fruit” theme feels like someth...

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie and Studio Underd0g Team Up, Reveling the Passion Fruit Watches Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Aug 29, 2024

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie and Studio Underd0g Team Up, Reveling the Passion Fruit Watches

Collaborations in the watch industry have become all the rage, bringing diverse brands and creative minds together. While most collabs typically result in a single watch that blends the DNA of two brands, high-end independent watchmaker H. Moser & Cie and micro-brand Studio Underd0g join forces for a fun and unexpected collab dubbed “it’s about […]

Oris Celebrates Geneva Watch Days with Two New Releases: an Updated Aquis Chronograph and a Limited Edition Divers Sixty-Five Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates Geneva Watch Days Aug 29, 2024

Oris Celebrates Geneva Watch Days with Two New Releases: an Updated Aquis Chronograph and a Limited Edition Divers Sixty-Five

It’s been an undeniably good year for watches over at Oris. Whether your tastes skew toward the Aquis or the Divers Sixty-Five, there have been plenty of wonderful new additions to the Oris catalog in 2024, from the all-new Aquis introduced at Watches and Wonders to the slew of exciting LEs that have punctuated the year. For Geneva Watch Days, Oris is continuing the trend, marking Geneva’s second biggest week in watches with not only a new Divers Sixty-Five LE but a brand new generation of Aquis Chronograph as well. Since its introduction in 2015, the Divers Sixty-Five has been a clear hit for Oris. It’s one of those watches you actually see in the real world, and the versatile model has been the platform for some of the brand’s most popular and sought-after collaborations and limited editions. This summer alone has seen three wildly different interpretations of the Divers Sixty-Five hit the market, each with its own distinct appeal. This latest addition to the lineup sees Oris collaborating with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP), along with LFP’s charity partner CNAPE (the National Convention of Child Protection Associations). Inspired by CNAPE’s mission, this 1,000-piece LE is replete with small details highlighting the partnership. Standouts here include the deep blue dial and the distinct font used for all the dial text, which is inspired by a child’s handwriting - a choice augmented by the rainbow of color used to spell out “water resi...

MB&F; and L’Epee 1839 Introduce Steampunk Airship Clock SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 28, 2024

MB&F; and L’Epee 1839 Introduce Steampunk Airship Clock

MB&F;’s sculptural clocks made by L’Epee 1839 have ranged from sci-fi spiders to robots. And now the pair have debuted their most elaborate and expensive desk clock to date, the Albatross. Inspired by the airship of the same name in the Jules Verne novel Robur the Conqueror, the steampunk Albatross does more than tell the time. The clock also incorporates an hourstriker as well as a propellor automaton that activates alongside the hourstriker. Initial thoughts The Albatross is more interesting mechanically than MB&F;’s past collaborations with L’Epee, which were mostly about the form of the clock. This, on the other hand, incorporates mechanics into the design with the propeller automaton linked to the hourstriker. Coupled with the chiming and spinning propellors, the sheer size – 60 cm high and some 17 kg – makes the Albatross a truly impressive object. But the Albatross costs about CHF120,000 before taxes, which is a big number even considering its complexity. While the impressive mechanics and careful construction of the clock arguably justify the price, the price tag puts it in competition with a lot of compelling watches, at least for a watch collector. For someone looking for an impressive desktop object or the ultimate in home decor, this has arguably less competition. Jules Verne’s airship Made of steel, brass, and aluminium, the Albatross contains two separate movements. The first is a twin barrel, eight-day movement for the timekeeping and hourstriker...

Introducing Gagà Laboratorio, a New Independent Watch Brand with Italian Flare Worn & Wound
Bvlgari Aug 28, 2024

Introducing Gagà Laboratorio, a New Independent Watch Brand with Italian Flare

Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...

Bangalore Watch Company’s Latest is Inspired by Himalayan Rescue Helicopters Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2024

Bangalore Watch Company’s Latest is Inspired by Himalayan Rescue Helicopters

As India’s luxury market continues to grow, there has been an opportunity for more domestic-made brands to shine. One such brand is the Bangalore Watch Company. Since 2018, the brand has been making timepieces that are inspired by the rich landscape and heritage of the subcontinent. One such series of watches, MACH 1, has centered on the Indian Air Force. Past iterations have focused on various motifs, from formation aerobatics to aircraft carriers. For their latest launch, Bangalore Watch Company has set their sights to the clouds and high-altitude helicopters. The Himalayas have long captivated the cultural imagination of the world – and especially those in India. With over 1,600 peaks with a towering 6,000 meter presence, the mountain range inspires both fear and awe. It’s incredible, then, to think that some of the top aviators in India use helicopters for reconnaissance and resupply operations in some of the most challenging flying conditions on the planet. Enter the Mach 1 Avalanche, inspired by the harsh beauty of the Himalayan peaks and the danger that is intrinsically tied to the airspace. This is first evident with the “Frostpeak” dial, inspired by freshly fallen snow, which shimmers with a motif de grain that plays with light in varying conditions. The bright red minute hand, coated with Super-Luminova, draws inspiration from airspeed indicators and the vibrant colors of mountain rescue helicopters while the case back is engraved with an image of a hel...

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration Aug 27, 2024

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone

Over the past few years, Zenith’s limited edition releases made in collaboration with Felipe Pantone have been a highlight among the deluge of collaborative limited editions that have become so popular as of late. The Zenith x Pantone pieces tend to feel like little pieces of art, which is appropriate when the collaborate is a visual artist. These collaborations also seem to be right at home within the Defy line, a collection that has embraced a flair for color and the avant-garde as long as it has been in existence. The latest release from the pair is perhaps their most ambitious yet, and marks the first time Pantone has had a hand in a watch in the current Defy Skyline collection.  The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone takes what is almost certainly the brand’s most exotic Defy and gives it a blast of the chromatic and optical touches that Pantone is known for. The tourbillon, of course, is the literal centerpiece of the design, and the bridge has been refashioned here as a lightning bolt, a motif found throughout Pantone’s work. Its colorful gradient and metallic finish is reminiscent of the finishing that made the first Pantone collaboration such a standout.  While the previous Felipe Pantone collaborations have featured dials that are largely skeletonized, a different approach was taken with the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon. The dial is a large sapphire disc and has been micro-engraved with a pattern of concentric circles. This “moire” effect is anothe...

Microbrands vs. Independent Watchmakers: The Rise of (Relatively Affordable) Microbrands Quill & Pad
Aug 21, 2024

Microbrands vs. Independent Watchmakers: The Rise of (Relatively Affordable) Microbrands

In recent years, several factors have come together resulting in the exponential rise of microbrand watches. This new microbrand wave is one of the biggest developments in the broader watch market. I would mention here that not all microbrands are equal. There are many watches out there that, to be honest, are not worth your time. However, some microbrands are getting it right as Raman Kalra highlights here.

A New Chronograph From Xeric Celebrates the Upcoming NASA Artemis Missions Worn & Wound
Aug 20, 2024

A New Chronograph From Xeric Celebrates the Upcoming NASA Artemis Missions

Xeric is a watch brand with a cult following based on a reputation for creating some of the most ingenious and affordable statement watches in the microbrand world. Their pieces are often conversation starters, featuring unusual time telling displays and lots of color. If you’re familiar with some of their avant-garde designs, it’s perhaps not a surprise that they have an entire sub-collection of NASA branded watches. It just kind of makes sense that watches with a decidedly futuristic, sci-fi inspired look would connect to the space agency. Their latest NASA piece, however, is almost subdued in comparison to prior efforts, and if you’re interested in jumping into Xeric but not ready for a watch with complex satellite time telling mechanism, the new Artemis Chrono might be your speed.  The Artemis Chrono is named for the NASA program that will bring human beings to the lunar surface for the first time since the Apollo missions over 50 years ago. Returning to the moon is an important space travel milestone so it’s no surprise that Xeric would celebrate it with a limited edition release. The basis for the design, according to Xeric, is an updated take on the tachymeter equipped chronograph, which of course is exactly the type of watch that has become famous as the space watch over the last five decades.  For the new Artemis Chrono, the bezel has become a focal point and is highlighted with bold colors and has been glass coated to aid in legibility and make the whol...

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Aug 6, 2024

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project

Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house.  Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously.  Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, b...

Mid-Sized Dive Watches For Small To Medium Sized Wrists Worn & Wound
Aug 2, 2024

Mid-Sized Dive Watches For Small To Medium Sized Wrists

Dive watches have always been popular, and it is no wonder nearly every brand must have one in their repertoire. People love owning overengineered things. This could be a car capable of reaching speeds well over 100mph, even though the highest maximum speed limit in the U.S. is 85 (in Texas), or a watch with a water resistance rating of 200+ meters, despite the maximum depth for recreational diving being only 40. Not to mention that most dive watch owners rarely get their timepieces wet. The advantage of wearing a rugged dive watch is that it can withstand more than just water; it can also protect against dust, humidity, sweat, and even baby drool, prepared to handle any adventure. We have curated a selection of medium-sized dive watches suitable for small to medium wrists now that the trend for oversized watches has waned. We even believe that individuals with larger wrists may find them appealing. Dive watches have always been popular, and it is no wonder nearly every brand must have one in their repertoire. People love owning overengineered things. This could be a car capable of reaching speeds well over 100mph, even though the highest maximum speed limit in the U.S. is 85 (in Texas), or a watch with a water resistance rating of 200+ meters, despite the maximum depth for recreational diving being only 40. Not to mention that most dive watch owners rarely get their timepieces wet. The advantage of wearing a rugged dive watch is that it can withstand more than just water;...

Introducing – The Refreshing Chronoswiss Delphis Sub Zero Monochrome
Chronoswiss Aug 1, 2024

Introducing – The Refreshing Chronoswiss Delphis Sub Zero

The Ebstein family acquired Chronoswiss from founder Gerd R. Lang in 2012. Respecting many of Lang’s signature complications and design language, including his iconic Regulator, CEO Oliver Ebstein and his team have infused the brand with a refreshing contemporary spirit. Classical decorative techniques are injected with eye-catching colours and textures, producing a repertoire of vibrant […]

Citizen Celebrates a Major Milestone with the Essence of Time Exhibit Worn & Wound
Citizen Celebrates Jul 31, 2024

Citizen Celebrates a Major Milestone with the Essence of Time Exhibit

Citizen watches have played an enormous role in shaping the taste and opinions of many of us at Worn & Wound, and the same can likely be said for a large percentage of our readers. They are a brand that is truly ubiquitous in that their philosophy has always been to create watches for everyone, for every citizen, and that comes through loud and clear when you take even a cursory look at their product offerings at any given time. Over the past several years, Citizen has expanded their reach into the enthusiast watch world through a variety of releases that offer an exceptional amount of bang for buck when it comes to materials, technology, and aesthetics, while always maintaining their mass market appeal. Anyone who follows the watch industry closely knows that there are only a handful of brands that can truly claim to be embraced by both the mass market and the cult of watch aficionados, and Citizen is most definitely part of that exclusive group.  This year marks the 100th anniversary of the very first Citizen watch, and they’re marking the occasion with a traveling exhibition that should appeal to hardcore collectors and hobbyists as well as more casual watch lovers and Citizen owners. The Essence of Time exhibit, which we had a chance to tour recently at its New York City debut, is an impressive testament to Citizen’s impact on the watch landscape over the past century, and offers the public an opportunity to view important Citizen watches from throughout the brand...

Horage and the Ingenious New Revolution 3 MicroReg Worn & Wound
Jul 30, 2024

Horage and the Ingenious New Revolution 3 MicroReg

Okay, I admit it. I don’t really care about my watches’ accuracy. Don’t get me wrong, I want my watches to be relatively accurate - and I certainly want them to be in spec - but I want the watchmakers to care about that so I don’t have to. At the end of the day, I just can’t bring myself to care all that much about a couple of seconds over the course of a day. After all, what’s 10 or 15 seconds held up against 86,400? The world doesn’t really operate on that sort of accuracy, and my day-to-day writing about watches certainly doesn’t demand it. That said, while I may not care all that much about accuracy in the abstract, I love it when brands pursue accuracy. I’m a sucker for a clever escapement, a new technique, or a wild swing, and beyond all that, I love the creativity that the pursuit of accuracy tends to elicit. So when Horage announced the Revolution 3 Microreg last week, it certainly caught my eye. The standout feature of the Horage Revolution 3 Microreg, which was made using technology developed by Swiss engineering firm Miniswys, is the ability to regulate the watch at home using a miniature electric motor connected to the escapement’s regulator and controlled by an external dock which allows adjustment in increments as low as 0.1 seconds. Pair this with what is already a COSC-certified movement and what you get is the potential for a remarkably accurate watch that bridges the gap between, as Horage puts it, regulation and reality. One of t...

Our Favorite Releases of the Year (So Far…) Worn & Wound
Sinn U50 HYDRO I had Jul 26, 2024

Our Favorite Releases of the Year (So Far…)

Well, we’re a little more than halfway through 2024, so we thought it would be a good time to ask our contributors about their favorite watches of the year to this point. It’s been, to put it mildly, a strange year. Coming off 2023, a watch release year that saw an almost never ending string of hits, 2024 seems a bit more sedate. But the highs, as they say, have been high, and there are specific sectors of the watch world that seem to be thriving with creativity and pushing serious boundaries.  The selections here from our staff and contributors run the gamut, as always, from large brands to small, affordable to luxury. We’d love to hear from you: let us know what your favorite releases of 2024 are in the comments below.  Zach Weiss – Sinn U50 HYDRO I had a bit of a hard time picking a watch for the topic, and to be honest, it’s because I haven’t been overly blown away by anything yet this year. Not that they’ve been bad; there just hasn’t been much that has really tempted me personally. That’s probably a good thing, but, as I pondered releases, one watch eventually stood out: the Sinn U50 Hydro. The Sinn U50 line was already a great success for the brand, bringing their distinctly modern, tool watch language to a manageably-sized dive watch. But, this year when they added their HYDRO technology to the package, it made it a watch that truly could only be a Sinn, and likely appreciated by only devoted Sinn enthusiasts. For those unaware, Sinn’s HYDRO w...

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions Jul 25, 2024

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger

Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....