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Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – A Modern Classic! WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – Jul 12, 2023

Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – A Modern Classic!

Raymond Weil recently released their new limited edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph, and as the official launch partner, we’ve had the pleasure of testing it out over the past couple of weeks. Here’s the results… What We Love Vintage StylingThe multi-faceted dialFlyback functionality What We Don’t Stiff strap and clasp designNo date windowOverhanging lug design Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8/10 Initial Thoughts Sitting in a café in Sydney a few weeks ago, my colleague and I laid eyes on the the Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph for the first time. We knew they were releasing a new pilots watch to add to the Freelancer Chronograph line, and having only seen the press pics, in person it looked the goods, especially the dial. Playing around with it for a little while, it seemed solid and well done, and being a limited edition of just 400, with a price point of AUD $6,995 for a good-looking flyback chronograph that was well built, seemed fair to us based on the competition and price points out there now. And if you missed our article on the release of this watch, before you dive into this review, check out all the details with more live pics here. The Design The design of the new Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is quite multifaceted, to say the least. Raymond Weil has used different design cues and inspiration to craft the watch to look and feel vintage, but it is anything but. The...

[VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 Worn & Wound
Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 Jul 11, 2023

[VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417

Seiko expanded their popular Sharp Edge family earlier this year with the release of an open heart design in the reference SPB415 and SPB417. The Sharp Edge is a series we’ve been curious about since it was first introduced in 2020, and this latest release has finally given us a chance to go hands-on. Our full review on this watch (from our Ed Jelley) is coming soon, but we took the opportunity to get a quick first reaction when the watch landed in our office, and it wasn’t without a few surprises. Chief among them is that dial texture, which hits very differently than the press images.  Open heart dials are a bit polarizing, but Seiko takes an interesting approach here with the design of the section over the aperture. It feels elevated somehow. The dial is downright perplexing, taking on a different personality at varying angles and lighting situations. But in use, the case itself presents what might be the most compelling feature here, with large geometric surfaces and a mixture of finishes breathing life into the ergonomic profile. How that stands up to further scrutiny remains to be seen. This watch may not have fully won me over on the open heart concept, but it has made me quite keen on the Sharp Edge collection as a whole. Stay tuned for the full review coming later this week to for Ed’s feelings. Seiko. The post [VIDEO] First-Look at the Seiko Presage Sharp Edge SPB417 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Ed Sheeran hands out free pizzas while wearing a six-figure “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Ref.1518 – the first serially produced Jul 11, 2023

Ed Sheeran hands out free pizzas while wearing a six-figure “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona ref. 6263

If you’re a budding watch-spotter, Ed Sheeran is the gift that just keeps on giving.  Highlights in his watch box include the Patek Philippe Ref.1518 – the first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph in the world of which just 281 were produced – and the Patek Philippe Ref.5208P-001, a platinum-cased grand complication that is valued north of … ContinuedThe post Ed Sheeran hands out free pizzas while wearing a six-figure “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion Jul 10, 2023

Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion

Greubel Forsey has revealed plans for a significant expansion of its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Set to nearly triple the current size of the distinctive, sloping building, the CHF20 million project signals a broader strategic move for the brand as it seeks a larger share of the high-end sports watch sector. The expansion, scheduled to commence next year, will not only increase Greubel Forsey’s research and development capacity and provide additional amenities for guests and staff, but it will also enable the brand to increase production. This move aligns with the brand’s recent shift from producing mainly complex tourbillon watches to introducing simpler, sportier watches that target the segment dominated by Richard Mille. In addition to the expansion, the brand is poised to launch its eighth “Fundamental Invention” this year.  Nearly tripling in size The manufacture expansion is a key pillar of chief executive Antonio Calce’s ten-year vision for growing the brand and professionalising its operations. According to Mr Calce, the expansion will enable Greubel Forsey to pursue “ever greater creativity and excellence in hand finishing.” Antonio Calce The planned expansion of the manufacture is ambitious; the floorplan is set to nearly triple in size, from 2,000 m2 to 5,460 m2. Fortunately, the expansion will not alter the current building’s recognisable architecture of a glass box rising out of the grass. Instead, the expansion will build on and around...

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023” SJX Watches
Omega Jul 10, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023”

For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial.  Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards.  But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...

The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2023

The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal

Sapphire is one of the most exotic materials for a watch case these days. Notorious for being incredibly hard to work with, the material has yet to appear in more affordable models; however, ArtyA is on the right track with their new sporty summer release, the AquaSaphir. ArtyA is a small independent brand from Switzerland, … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA AquaSaphir is the first aquatic watch with a case made of sapphire crystal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Look to the Skies With This New Aurora-Inspired G-Shock Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2023

Look to the Skies With This New Aurora-Inspired G-Shock

G-Shock is a brand who’s known for swinging wildly in two different directions, and few others can pull it off like they do. From the classic black square DW-5600 to the more wild offerings like this MTGB3000PRB1, they rarely miss. Inspired by the colorful natural phenomenon known as aurora borealis, where particles from solar winds interact with the Earth’s magnetic field and result in a stunning display of dancing light. The wide range of colors and textures that nature’s own little light show puts on can be seen in the design of the MTGB3000PRB1, where G-Shock has integrated some really cool material technology to replicate the look. Let’s dig in. G-Shock is a brand who’s known for swinging wildly in two different directions, and few others can pull it off like they do. From the classic black square DW-5600 to the more wild offerings like this MTGB3000PRB1, they rarely miss. Inspired by the colorful natural phenomenon known as aurora borealis, where particles from solar winds interact with the Earth’s magnetic field and result in a stunning display of dancing light. The wide range of colors and textures that nature’s own little light show puts on can be seen in the design of the MTGB3000PRB1, where G-Shock has integrated some really cool material technology to replicate the look. Let’s dig in. The post Look to the Skies With This New Aurora-Inspired G-Shock appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2023

Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece

E-waste. It’s an ever-growing problem, and one without easy solutions. Clearly, innovative thinking is needed, including new methods of manufacturing, recycling, and even upcycling when an electronic product reaches the end of its useful life. And while this example isn’t the answer, it is a showcase for some truly innovative thinking, as well as a … ContinuedThe post Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer 50th Anniversary Time+Tide
Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer 50th Jul 8, 2023

The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer 50th Anniversary

The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer celebrates the 50th anniversary of the 1973 bullhead chronograph. Instead of reissuing the model, Citizen have blended it with their modern Eco-Drive technology. Citizen achieved the look by rotating an Eco-Drive movement 90 degrees. Thinking of the 1970s resurgence in watchmaking, the mind turns to the likes of Gérald Genta … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer 50th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Owner’s Review: The Arcanaut Arc II Fordite Worn & Wound
Jul 7, 2023

Owner’s Review: The Arcanaut Arc II Fordite

It’s a simple fact that the longer we’re involved in this hobby, the more difficult it is to get really excited about any particular new watch. It doesn’t mean we love the hobby, or watches, any less, but it’s a natural side effect of constantly being exposed to new stuff. I wouldn’t say I’ve become blasé or jaded about new watches as a whole, but let’s just say that over time, I’ve found it easier and easier to reach a point of objectivity when evaluating something. I was already perhaps a little less inclined to be emotionally attached to a watch, and with several release cycles under my belt as a “professional” in the industry and being fortunate enough to handle some of the coolest watches that have been made over the last several years, it’s easier, not harder, to see them for what they are, and to look beyond whatever marketing, Instagram, or collector hype is associated with it.  So, for me, it’s notable when I take a step back from a new watch and realize I’m getting excited about something the way that I used to, when I was new to the hobby and felt like every new watch I handled (or just read about) was a great new discovery. As I’ve seen others enter the hobby since I’ve gotten involved, I’m frequently jealous of that feeling – I think it’s something all of us, regardless of our experience level – are chasing. Why wouldn’t we? If it’s a healthy intellectual curiosity about the history and stories behind these objects t...

Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear Worn & Wound
Jul 7, 2023

Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear

Whether it’s travel or staying close to home and relaxing, there’s always some room in your EDC to add some new gear. That’s half the fun of it – looking at your daily essentials and refining them to fit your individual needs. It’s an ongoing journey that focuses on having the right gear for the job. It’s no secret that we’re all pretty big gear fans at the Windup Watch Shop, so putting together some of our favorite Summer-ready EDC gear was a no-brainer. Let’s take a look at some brand new gear in the shop that’s sure to come in handy. Whether it’s travel or staying close to home and relaxing, there’s always some room in your EDC to add some new gear. That’s half the fun of it – looking at your daily essentials and refining them to fit your individual needs. It’s an ongoing journey that focuses on having the right gear for the job. It’s no secret that we’re all pretty big gear fans at the Windup Watch Shop, so putting together some of our favorite Summer-ready EDC gear was a no-brainer. Let’s take a look at some brand new gear in the shop that’s sure to come in handy. The post Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Garrick Introduces their Regulator MK 2, Another Highly Customizable Ode to Classic British Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Garrick Jul 7, 2023

Garrick Introduces their Regulator MK 2, Another Highly Customizable Ode to Classic British Watchmaking

Garrick Watchmakers is back with the Regulator MK 2, which puts their distinct design language inspired by nautical themes and classical British watchmaking into one of the oldest time telling formats there is, but in a contemporary way. One of the things we love about Garrick is the way they inhabit both traditional watchmaking tropes and combine them with new ideas that feel very much of the moment. Their commitment to personalization and making everything on their own is the ethos that links the old and new – these are ideas that were central to the earliest days of watchmaking, and are currently experiencing a resurgence in general interest as the hobby grows and expands. Garrick’s new Regulator is noteworthy for straddling that line, and of course for the elaborate and ornate finishing they’ve become known for (which, naturally, you can customize to your heart’s content).  Garrick introduced their first regulator in 2018, roughly five years after the brand was launched. It’s a time telling platform that originated in the late 18th century, and is most often associated with watchmakers who used regulator clocks to gauge the accuracy and rate stability of the timepieces they were working on. In the days before www.time.gov, a watchmaker’s regulator was an important tool when a predictable and reliable timepiece was essential for doing a particular job, such as an aid in navigation on a ship. With hours, minutes, and seconds each on a separate axis, it becom...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Instagram plagiarises Twitter, HSNY charity auction kicks off Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Instagram plagiarises Twitter, HSNY charity auction kicks off

While this week has had some interesting releases like the new Luis Vuitton Tambour W, the thing many watch enthusiasts have been discussing this week is not actually a watch or even industry news. It is a new social media platform: Threads. Meta launches Threads – will it take off within the watch community? I … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Instagram plagiarises Twitter, HSNY charity auction kicks off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Celebrating 50 Years of Being Fashionably On Time with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono Back Jul 6, 2023

Celebrating 50 Years of Being Fashionably On Time with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono

Back in January of 1973, Citizen, a pioneering Japanese watchmaking house, released a unique riff on a watch that they’d launched only a few months earlier. The watch was their very first mechanical chronograph. This version had the chronograph pushers situated at the top of the case, rather than on the side, in what’s affectionately referred to as a bullhead configuration called the Citizen Challenge Timer. Fans would soon nickname the “Tsuno Chrono” and its instantly recognizable 70s tones and panda dial layout would make this particular variant a legend. Fast forward to August 1, 2019, when a young watch journalist, and co-founder of a particular watch enthusiast publication, would rush home from a movie theater to research a timepiece he’d seen on screen. Zach Weiss had just finished viewing Quentin Tarantino’s critically acclaimed ninth film, Once Upon a Time … In Hollywood. Here’s an excerpt from the article he penned and published immediately thereafter. The film went on to be nominated for a total of ten Academy Awards at the 2020 Oscars and won two including Best Supporting Actor for Brad Pitt, which further cemented his role and this watch into absolute icon status. Despite a blatant continuity error, it’s clear that this was not a miscasting. It was still the right watch, on the right wrist, in the right role, at the right time. Now, 50 years later from the introduction of the original Tsuno Chrono, Citizen has reimagined the concept, form fact...

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel Time+Tide
Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives Jul 6, 2023

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Five has finally been given a steel alternative. While the bronze version from 2021 is still great, it’s not as versatile as a steel watch. Colour theory dictates that the different metal tones affect how we view the pastel dial colours. A couple of years ago you could barely go … ContinuedThe post The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Review: The Black Bay 54 – A Black Bay to Rule them All? Worn & Wound
Tudor launched Jul 6, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: The Black Bay 54 – A Black Bay to Rule them All?

It’s amazing to look back to 2018 and see the utter excitement and disbelief I felt when Tudor launched the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, a sentiment that was shared by many. It seemed as though our hopes and prayers had been answered. Finally, a vintage-inspired dive watch with a great movement at a smaller size, by a brand with provenance. While that seems like daily news in 2023, a sub-40mm dive watch, at the time, from a major Swiss brand was still hard to come by. It was clear Tudor had a hit. And, as per usual, we expected they would capitalize on that hit. In the conclusion of my review from 2019, I say “…it’s likely they will expand greatly on the collection.” I was wrong, and this is where the story of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, and Tudor, takes a slightly different direction. Rather than doing what most brands do, including themselves with other models, they pumped the brakes. The rainbow of options never came, instead, there were a total of five variations broken down as two in steel, a silver model (still crazy), a solid gold, and a bronze boutique edition. Not what we expected. 37mm is just right Tudor then left the Black Bay Fifty-Eight behind for a while, coming out instead with a series of unexpected sports watches in new-ish platforms. The Pelagos FXD, while part of their larger tech diver line, featured a different case, modified dial and bezel designs, and a genuine military tie-in. The Black Bay Pro put their GMT and a date complication into a 39mm c...

Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme) Quill & Pad
Jul 6, 2023

Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme)

Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet. This year the theme is rainbows: some brands ran with that superbly, while others took a different path. Here Ian Skellern highlights Lots 33-48.

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Seiko Announces Jul 5, 2023

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch

How many times can you go back to the well? If you’re Seiko, and the well is the 62MAS, the answer, apparently, is as many times as you’d like. Or, six. By my rough count, that’s how many re-editions of the historically important Seiko diver we’ve seen since 2017, when they began to really lean into the iconography of their first professional dive watch with the SLA017 along with the SPB051, setting a template for both limited edition, higher priced versions of the 62MAS reedition for collectors, and a more value oriented approach for everyday watch enthusiasts, an approach that was arguably perfected with the SPB143 and its many, many variants. Now, just announced, Seiko has revealed a new re-edition of the 62MAS that might be the closest yet to the aesthetic of the original, with a higher end movement that brings the watch into luxury territory.  The headline here is that the case size of the new SJE093 is the closest approximation yet to the original watch from 1965. It gets the diameter exactly right at 38mm, and, crucially, comes in at just 12.5mm thick. Those are nearly identical measurements to the original 62MAS, and a whole lot more slender than the reissues, and it’s thanks to a new caliber making its debut in this very watch.  The new caliber is the 6L37, which shares an architecture with the 6L35, but has been upgraded to be more durable and resistant to shocks. Seiko says this caliber was made expressly for divers. The “L” series movements are ...

Just A Few Days Left Of Our July 4th Celebration Sale! Worn & Wound
Jul 5, 2023

Just A Few Days Left Of Our July 4th Celebration Sale!

The fireworks may have ended but our party here at the Windup Watch Shop is continuing for just a few more days! Don’t miss out on some of the amazing deals we’ve got going on this week. Score a major discount on some of the best dive watches for the summer, today through July 7th, no discount code necessary. Let’s take a look at some of our favorite sale items below but check out the July 4th Spotlight page to discover more! The fireworks may have ended but our party here at the Windup Watch Shop is continuing for just a few more days! Don’t miss out on some of the amazing deals we’ve got going on this week. Score a major discount on some of the best dive watches for the summer, today through July 7th, no discount code necessary. Let’s take a look at some of our favorite sale items below but check out the July 4th Spotlight page to discover more! The post Just A Few Days Left Of Our July 4th Celebration Sale! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

ochs und junior line Collection Gets New Moon Phase Complication Worn & Wound
Jul 5, 2023

ochs und junior line Collection Gets New Moon Phase Complication

The industrial designs of ochs und junior watches have an immense impact allowed by their near brutalistic design codes, but the sheer simplicity of their approach to complications is what really draws us in. Their perpetual calendar being the penultimate example, requiring just 9 new components within the movement to operate. Ochs und junior are bringing this level of thinking to their line collection, which we’ve covered since its inception, with the introduction of a new moonphase capable of remaining accurate for 3,478.27 years before being off by a single day. In true ochs und junior fashion, they’ve accomplished this with the addition of just 5 additional parts to the ETA 2824-2 movement.  The new line watch is called the moon phase / selene, and it brings the moon to the dial in a unique manner, as you may have guessed when it comes to ochs und junior. There is a large moon phase aperture cut through through the bottom portion of the dial, with a monochromatic representation of the moon at opposing ends of a rotating disc. Dots underneath the dial represent each day, and each phase that the moon passes through. The remainder of the dial is rendered almost entirely in ochs blue, creating a rather serene experience of the romantic complication, save for the silver hour markers at each even hour. The total aesthetic here is classic ochs und junior, with minimal representation of the core components, and an untouched, raw experience of the materials at use. The two...