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Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fall Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mercator created Oct 2, 2023

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fall Auction

After delving into the notable complications in Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction on October 7, we shift our focus to the timepieces exhibiting a distinct artisanal touch, spanning the encyclopaedia of decorative techniques from cloisonné enamelling to wood marquetry. Several are exquisite examples of enamel crafted by the renowned artisans Anita Porchet and her eponymous workshop, along with a pocket watch with a miniature enamel made by Hélène May-Mercier for Patek Philippe. Another highlight is the commemorative Vacheron Constantin Mercator created to mark the handover of Hong Kong to China in 1997 that was the work of a Belgium husband-and-wife enamel workshop. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 2209: Vacheron Constantin Mercator “Hong Kong Handover 1997”  The transfer of sovereignty over Hong Kong from the United Kingdom to the People’s Republic of China was a significant historical event that brought an end to 156 years of colonial rule in the territory and marked the conclusion of the British Empire. To mark the handover, Vacheron Constantin created a special iteration of the Mercator. One of the brand’s best known models at the time, the Mercator set itself apart with a unique double retrograde display for the hours and minutes, with the top-of-the-line models having cloisonné enamel dials. While the initial Mercator editions portrayed entire continents or regi...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Bvlgari Jul 9, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 57 - Seiko Made What?!

Aaaaaaaaand we’re back for episode 57 of a Week in Watches! It’s been a crazy couple of weeks for launches which includes a bounty of 62 concept watches from the Only Watch auction, so we’re playing a little bit of catch up this week. We start with a trip to the stars with the new Ming 37.05 series 2 and then head to the races with the new Tudor FXDs. After, I couldn’t help but take another look at Only Watch focusing on the incredible offerings from Baltic, Bvlgari, and Konstantin Chaykin. Our last topic was a surprise and surprising drop from Seiko in the form of a new 62MAS re-issue. This week’s sponsor is Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023! After a successful weekend in San Francisco, the highly anticipated Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the vibrant city of Chicago from Friday, July 14, through Sunday, July 16, 2023. The fair will be held at Venue West, located at 221 N Paulina St in the West Loop neighborhood of Chicago, and feature over 40 brands. Visit and follow windupwatchfair.com for the full list of participating brands. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 57 – Seiko Made What?! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel Time+Tide
Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives Jul 6, 2023

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel

The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Five has finally been given a steel alternative. While the bronze version from 2021 is still great, it’s not as versatile as a steel watch. Colour theory dictates that the different metal tones affect how we view the pastel dial colours. A couple of years ago you could barely go … ContinuedThe post The Oris Cotton Candy Divers Sixty-Fives are finally in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer SJX Watches
May 5, 2023

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...

Opinion: Watch Collecting in the Quantum Realm Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Feb 24, 2023

Opinion: Watch Collecting in the Quantum Realm

Possibly against my better judgment, I saw Ant-Man and the Wasp: Quantumania recently. While it’s not my least favorite Marvel movie, it was pretty bad, somehow finding a way to rob Paul Rudd of nearly all of his natural charm, and filled with special effects that look not very special at all. I found my mind drifting, wondering if any of these actors actually met each other during filming, or if production had them fly in separately to film in front of massive green screens. And, as it too frequently does, my thoughts turned to watches. Wondering, as my colleagues did a few weeks ago, if Rudd chose that Grand Seiko for himself at the Ant-Man premiere, and if there was a quantum reality where he might have chosen a different watch for himself altogether, and if maybe in that reality he plays Captain America instead, and the MCU movies weren’t in a state of perpetual decline.  The premise of Quantumania is actually interesting. Without getting too deep into the weeds, everything in the movie hinges on the quantum physics inspired idea that every decision point you encounter has infinite possibilities, and those possibilities play out in the “quantum realm.” That means new versions of you, and everyone you encounter, are constantly splitting off of your own perceived reality. This type of multiverse enabling storytelling is core to comic book mythologies, and seems to be playing out more frequently in this phase of Marvel films. In Quantumania, it means that in one ...

Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum Time+Tide
Rado True Square inspired Jan 29, 2023

Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum

Apparently, Rado can turn you into a tennis champion.  When the British player, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012, he’d never won a Grand Slam. After signing with Rado, however, he proceeded to win the US Open and then became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936, when he won the … ContinuedThe post Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Am I supposed Sep 18, 2022

In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex

“Am I supposed to hate Jackie Rohr, because I f*cking love him!” That post on Reddit sums up the general feeling for everyone’s favourite anti-hero in City on a Hill. If you haven’t watched it yet, don’t miss out. Set in the 1990s, this gritty drama hits like The Wire with a Boston accent, unfolding … ContinuedThe post In City on a Hill, Jackie Rohr understands the sleazy magnificence of a two-tone Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else Time+Tide
Cartier Tank better than anyone Sep 3, 2022

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else

The Cartier Tank is hardly a watch lacking in high-profile endorsements. From Andy Warhol to Mohammad Ali and Fred Astaire to Steve McQueen, many great men have fallen for its square-jawed linearity, Roman numerals and cabochon crown that looks like an erotic police siren. But, let’s face it, the bad guys are always more interesting. … ContinuedThe post Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 15, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial”

Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...

Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show Time+Tide
Dec 14, 2021

Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show

Are you reeling from the finale of Succession, too? Over the nine episodes of the third season, the HBO show has consistently upped the dramatic ante, combining Machiavellian politics with sibling rivalry and filial warfare. Sure, that may just sound like the ingredients of your average family Christmas. But part of Succession’s giddy appeal – … ContinuedThe post Succession finale: The most significant watches from the hit show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s tool-tastic steel bezel Nov 24, 2021

HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs

I always find it interesting how certain releases seem to fly under the radar. We all remember that watch that grabbed our attention but barely got a peep from the community. Maybe it’s bad timing or just bad luck but whatever the case may be, some watches just don’t make headlines. However, it tends to … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore SJX Watches
Cartier Tank Experience Singapore Nov 16, 2021

Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore

An easily digestible journey through the history of Cartier’s most famous rectangular watch, the Cartier Tank Experience is now open in Singapore until December 5, 2021. Taking place at Malmaison by The Hour Glass, the Cartier Tank Experience explores the history of the Tank with a timeline that rings the exhibition. Punctuatated by famous faces enraging from artist Andy Warhol to First World War hero General John Pershing, the Tank timeline touches on the bewildering variety of models over its century-long history, including the Tank Cintree and lesser known variants like the Tank Normale. And it is also a showcase of the jeweller’s current line up of Tanks, including the bestselling Tank Must with solid-colour dials and the Prive Tank Cintree (which is perhaps under-appreciated because it’s not a limited edition). The exhibition also includes a “strap bar”, basically a section where custom straps for the Tank can be ordered – and the Tank wristwatch itself personalised. Visitors can choose from alligator hide in 16 colours, and also specify the stitching, lining, and even a personalised inscription on the lining. Alongside the custom strap (and included in its cost), Cartier is also offering the option of engraving the owner’s initials on the case back of his or her Tank. The strap bar Exhibition details Open from now till December 5, 2021 Monday to Saturday 11.30 am-7.30 pm Sunday and public holidays 11.30 am-7.00 pm Visitors should register in advance for...

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms which Oct 19, 2021

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver

Founded by Romanian native Andy Bica-Popi but based in Switzerland, Peren styles itself as a Transylvanian watch brand. The micro-brand’s offerings are characterised by a clean, functional aesthetic, a style encapsulated by the Nera Rogue. Peren’s first dive watch is loosely inspired by the Tornek-Rayville TR-900, a rare and obscure dive watch that’s actually a rebadged Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which the Swiss watchmaker made for its American agent who in turn supplied them to the US Navy in the 1960s. Utilitarian and cleanly styled, the Nera Rogue takes after the TR-900, which is reflected in the hour markers and bezel, but is evidently not a vintage remake. And in a nod to today’s fashionable colour, the Nera Rogue has dark-green dial. Initial thoughts Granted, the population of micro-brands is ever increasing, especially those making dive watches, but a handful are both interesting and affordable enough to be worth a second look. Since micro-brands typically rely on the same few outsourced movements (often Sellita or Miyota), it falls to design to distinguish one from another. And Peren manages to set itself apart – albeit only on the second try. The Nera Rogue is actually Peren’s second go at the design. What’s really new on the Nera Rogue is actually its bezel – which is the primary element inspired by the TR-900 – while the rest of the watch is actually identical to a past model known as the Nera that was equipped with a smooth, unmarked bezel, m...

“I lost my grandad’s Rolex. Can I replace it with a knock-off?” Time+Tide
Rolex Jul 22, 2021

“I lost my grandad’s Rolex. Can I replace it with a knock-off?”

“Moral Money” is a page in the British newspaper, The Telegraph that’s a bit like an Agony Aunt for the financially vexed. Readers submit their monetary dilemmas and then experts weigh up their best course of action. This week’s head-scratcher was a particularly curly one. A desperate reader called KB from Manchester wrote in to … ContinuedThe post “I lost my grandad’s Rolex. Can I replace it with a knock-off?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Deployant
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic DEPLOYANT Jun 26, 2021

Review: new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor adds a new material to its growing list of Black Bay variants, with the new Black Bay Ceramic. This is the first time a full ceramic case is used on a regular production model, succeeding an earlier Only Watch 2019 all black model. Other notable changes include METAS certification, an anti-magnetic movement, and a two-liner dial instead of the usual Rolex style 'paragraph'.

Breitling Introduces the Super Chronomat SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces May 6, 2021

Breitling Introduces the Super Chronomat

Breitling revived the classic 1984 version of the Chronomat just last year, right down to the signature Rouleaux bracelet. Now the brand ups the ante with the introduction of the Super Chronomat, a larger, 44 mm watch that’s available in two guises: the B01 chronograph and more interestingly, a chronograph combined with the “1461” four-year calendar that was once a signature complication for Breitling. Initial thoughts At a time where brands are downsizing their best known designs, the Super Chronomat bucks the trend. Bigger and bolder than its smaller sibling, the Chronomat “is a watch you’ll get noticed in without having to worry about it” says Breitling chief executive Georges Kern in the launch announcement. I’m inclined to agree – the new Super Chronomat definitely makes a statement. With the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet and oversized pushers, the Super Chronomat possesses a temerity in design that is reminiscent of Breitling in the mid 2000s when the brand favoured excessive sizing, but packaged in a modern manner. That said, the new Super Chronomat collection has a cool 1980s vibe as well, particularly with the UTC module that’s an option on the Super Chronomat B01. The black dial Super Chronomat B01 44, with a UTC module in the bracelet Then there’s the Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar, which features a semi-perpetual calendar. Formerly the flagship complication for Breitling, the calendar is known as the 1461 after the number of days in...

Breitling Revives the Hand-Wind Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling Revives Apr 6, 2021

Breitling Revives the Hand-Wind Split-Seconds Chronograph

Best known for its chronographs – especially those for pilots – Breitling now ups the ante with the Premier Heritage Duograph that just debuted alongside the new Premier Heritage chronographs. Named after the split-seconds chronograph Breitling produced during the 1940s to 1960s, the new Duograph is Breitling’s first hand-wind split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house movement (it did debut an automatic split-seconds in 2017). Capable of recording two elapsed time simultaneously, the split-seconds is also known as a rattrapante – derived from rattraper, French for “catching up” – and was historically Breitling’s most expensive chronograph due to its complexity. The B15 in the new Duograph simplifies the construction of the split-seconds mechanism, resulting in a surprisingly affordable watch, with the steel version priced at about US$10,000. Initial thoughts Alongside with the release of the Datora, the Duograph is proof that Breitling is inching towards more complicated chronographs, which is a good progression for the brand. Breitling has a storied history with chronographs, and the Duograph is a return to form for a brand that was put back on track when Georges Kern, previously the chief executive of IWC, took the wheel and set a new course. The Premier B15 Duograph in steel It is important to note that the rattrapante is a challenge to do well, which is why few brands offer the complication, while those that do often price the split-seconds ...

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 “Rainbow” - Again SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces May 20, 2020

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 “Rainbow” - Again

Just in April this year, Breitling unveiled the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Rainbow, a limited edition of just 250 pieces that it sold out within a few hours according to Breitling chief executive Georges Kern. With the presses for the 250 barely cool, Breitling has announced another rainbow-theme diver, the Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II. This time, the limited edition is 1,000 pieces – but with a charitable twist: 500,000 Swiss francs from the sale of the new edition will go to charities that support healthcare workers. The bulk of the sum has already been donated, split evenly amongst six charities in six countries that are amongst the hardest hit by the COVID-19 pandemic. Initial thoughts Issuing an almost-identical edition after the initial home run is not cool. It feels a bit too blatant. That said, it is substantially redeemed by the generous donation, which is equivalent to about 10% of gross revenue from the new “Rainbow II”. It is encouraging to see watchmakers leverage on their brand equity to aid relief efforts. As for the watch itself, the Rainbow II is actually a better looking watch. While the first edition had had a black dial and bezel, the new edition employs a blue dial and bezel that I find to be even more striking. The primary attraction is of course the rainbow-graduated hour markers that inject a playful element into what’s otherwise a serious-looking retro dive watch. While the rainbow markers may be divisive – I lo...

Breaking News: Bulgari Exits Baselworld 2020 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Feb 11, 2020

Breaking News: Bulgari Exits Baselworld 2020

Barely a month after the inaugural LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, Bulgari has announced it is out of Baselworld 2020, citing the “Coronavirus pandemic”. Instead, Bulgari will present its products at roadshows in key markets, where amongst other things it will unveil a new record-setting ultra-thin watch. In the Bulgari announcement of its exit, chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin was careful to note that the jeweller might return to the event, stating “we remain open for 2021 onwards to continue with Baselworld”, with a decision due to be made by June 2020. The Roman jeweller is the biggest revenue earner amongst the LVMH watch and jewellery brands, which also includes watchmakers Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. All four already showed most of their new products for the year in Dubai, though Bulgari is the only one to depart Baselworld. Sunny and free of the flu in Dubai In contrast, the three watch brands of LVMH will be staying put. In a press release swiftly put out by Baselworld after Bulgari’s departure, LVMH watch division president Stéphane Bianchi stated: “We believe in the importance of a major event for the Swiss watch industry and look forward to a successful fair, both in terms of image and sales, for our three Maisons.” The divergence between Bulgari and the LVMH watch division gives credence to talk within the industry that a keen rivalry has developed between Messrs Babin and Bianchi, who joined LVMH in 2018 after a successful stint running Fre...

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2019

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions

Editor’s note: Being a pilot who’s into watches is already cool enough, but when you add in some seriously serious photography skills, that’s the whole ballgame. If you need some watch photography inspiration, this is it. Here’s a story from a while back when Andy caught up with Dale Mracek of @MracekProductions … Hi Dale, … ContinuedThe post Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time) Time+Tide
Longines Weems Apr 28, 2019

How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time)

Editor’s note: We originally ran Andy’s interview with John a few years back, but seeing a spectacular Longines Weems that was awarded to a Submarine School captain in 1943 reminded us of just how cool this guy and his collection is – well worth a second look.  John, AKA @barnfindwatches, is a family man and … ContinuedThe post How to find the perfect barn find watch, according to @barnfindwatches (hint, it take time) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be… Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2019

Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be…

Editor’s note: Last year, Andy Green did what he does, and had an intense Instagram browsing session to come up with this list of five celebs who are more likely than most to rock some serious wrist hardware. Given John Mayer’s recent redux of his Hodinkee Talk Watches piece, we thought the time was ripe … ContinuedThe post Are you following these 5 watch loving celebs on Instagram? You should be… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness - Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold Time+Tide
Jan 8, 2019

HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness - Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold

There is absolutely zero doubt that Moser know their way around a fine dial. Their fumé is hypnotic perfection at its best. Last year the brand upped the ante with their conceptual perpetual with impossibly black Vantablack dial. Well, if this well of blackness (which is a wonder on the wrist) leaves you as cold … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Glimmering through the darkness – Moser’s Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept in red gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 9 things you could buy instead of an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel for the same money Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer May 20, 2018

LIST: 9 things you could buy instead of an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel for the same money

Full disclosure. Earlier this year I bought an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel with a blue dial. So the brand’s recent anti-campaign called ‘The Pioneer Chronicles’, which is, in actuality, as much about calling B.S on Swiss watch marketing departments as it is about the watch itself, was well and truly after the … ContinuedThe post LIST: 9 things you could buy instead of an H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in steel for the same money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.