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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026 Fratello
Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs Jun 14, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026

Oh yes, indeed, it is already Sunday again! Time flies, doesn’t it? The one upside of life rushing by is that it is already time for another Sunday Morning Showdown, our weekly highlight. This week, Thomas and Daan throw two minimalist, design-first dress watches into the ring. Thomas puts forward the classic Nomos Tangente Neomatik […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026 to read the full article.

Arnold & Son’s London in Lume SJX Watches
Arnold & Son s London Jun 12, 2026

Arnold & Son’s London in Lume

John Arnold was originally a pioneering English watchmaker of the 18th century. So it is fitting that his namesake brand resurrected in Switzerland is creating his home city – with a clever twist. The Arnold & Son HM London Skyline seemingly depicts the British capital of yesteryear on mother-of-pearl, but at night the dial lights up with modern-day landmarks rendered in Super-Luminova. The two-hand watch is a run of 20 pieces for The Limited Edition, a London-based retailer specialising in independent and niche brands. Initial thoughts Today’s Arnold & Son (A&S;) has nothing to do with the original firm aside from the name; the watches are Swiss while its parent company is Japanese. The HM London Skyline, however, is a simple and appealing nod to the brand’s history. The use of lume to create an “Easter Egg” of sorts on the dial is smart and sets this apart from the typical landscape dials. Though the dial is not quite top of the line metiers d’art, it is an appealing offering in this segment. Mechanically, the HM is also credible as Arnold & Son’s sister company is La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker that supplies a good number of brands. The A&S;1001 movement inside is solid proprietary calibre that borrows from an existing architecture but transforms it into a movement with a four-day running time. London landmarks The London skyline is depicted on mother of pearl. It shows Tower Bridge on a cloudy day, with many of London’s historical landmarks visi...

Bring a Loupe: A Grand Seiko Masterpiece, A Patek 570, A Certina DS, And A Jaeger-LeCoultre Uniplan Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin should get your motor Jun 12, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Grand Seiko Masterpiece, A Patek 570, A Certina DS, And A Jaeger-LeCoultre Uniplan

It's somehow nearly halfway through June, and your reward is a chance for a breather with a few interesting watches to distract you from the heat. While, to my knowledge, Hodinkee has no specific editorial policy for supporting sports teams, given that it's a New York-based publication, it feels only fair to note that I hope the NBA Finals conclude tomorrow and the Knicks get their (long-overdue) chip, and I hope the long-suffering fans get a chance to absolutely freak out. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Cartier pocket watch sold for €3,980, the Explorer sold, but the auctioneer didn't list the price and hasn't answered my email yet, the Gruen Techno Quadrant sold for €1,300, the Tudor Ranger II for €1,600, the Broad Arrow Polerouter for £6,200, and the Railmaster did not sell. On to the main course. Strays Photo courtesy Dannenberg. If you're looking for ways to jump-start a relationship with a local watchmaker, or if you're simply in the mood for what promises to be an equally fun and maddening series of projects, here's a tantalizing box of Valjoux 72 parts/movements/dials/cases (if yes on chronographs but no on that particular option, here's a box of Tissot parts and here's one of Lemania and Valjoux parts). Crazy for LIP watches? It's your lucky day (well, technically, next Friday is).  Photo courtesy Finarte. Perhaps you, like me, have felt an odd urge toward asymmetric watches of late; if so, this Vacheron Constantin should get your motor running, and, ...

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Calibre 89 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calibre 89 Jun 12, 2026

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Calibre 89

In 1989, Geneva’s storied watchmaker unveiled the most complicated watch ever made – the Patek Philippe Calibre 89. The genesis of the Calibre 89 arguably started almost a century before with a watch made in Besançon, the historical heart of French watchmaking. In 1977, the Association Française des Amateurs d’Horlogerie Ancienne (AFAHA) published the first issue of its journal Horlogerie Ancienne. The watch on the cover was the Leroy 01. The caption on the inside front page read, “Montre Leroy 01, la plus compliquée du monde” – “The most complicated watch in the world”. Inside, on page 15, a short article made the case: the Leroy 01, completed in 1904 by the Parisian firm of Louis Leroy for the Portuguese collector António Augusto de Carvalho Monteiro, held a title that no other timepiece had successfully disputed. In Geneva, the claim was noted. The first issue of Horlogerie Ancienne of 1977. Image – SJX composite/AFAHA Two years later, in early June 1979, Philippe Stern was at his desk in Patek Philippe’s offices on the rue du Rhône when Max Studer, the firm’s technical director, came in for what the records describe as a routine meeting. The 150th anniversary of the manufacture was a decade away. Among the ideas being considered to celebrate the occasion was a reproduction of the Henry Graves Jr. Supercomplication, the watch Patek had built in 1932, with its twenty-four complications, that had served as the benchmark of mechanical ambition ev...

Windup Watch Fair Chicago Returns July 10th – 12th at an Exciting New Venue Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen eBay Live Jun 11, 2026

Windup Watch Fair Chicago Returns July 10th – 12th at an Exciting New Venue

We’re back in Chicago and we feel it! From July 10–12, Windup Watch Fair Chicago returns for its fifth year, bringing together over 70 watch brands, thousands of enthusiasts, and some of the best conversations in watch collecting. This year, we’re excited to welcome everyone to an all-new home: Morgan MFG, a stunning industrial event space located just steps from Chicago’s vibrant Fulton Market district. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, June 10 – Sunday, June 12, 2026 Morgan MFG 401 N Morgan St Suite #100 Chicago, IL 60642 Free and open to everyone. No registration necessary. The move to Morgan MFG marks an exciting new chapter for Windup Chicago. The venue offers significantly more room to explore, gather, and discover, along with something every watch enthusiast appreciates: incredible natural light. Whether you’re photographing your latest find, evaluating a new release, or simply enjoying a weekend surrounded by fellow enthusiasts, Morgan MFG provides an ideal backdrop for what promises to be our biggest Chicago event yet. As always, admission is free and open to everyone, making Windup the perfect place for seasoned enthusiasts and newcomers alike to get hands-on with watches they may have only seen online. We’re also thrilled to announce our lead sponsors for Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026: Atelier Wen, Christopher Ward, Citizen, eBay Live, and Oris. We’re so grateful to our returning Lead Sponsors with their enthusiast-tuned collections. Stay tuned ...

Business News: Richard Mille Owner Files Legal Action Against Liberty Media And COTA After $750,000 Watch Stolen At F1 Race Hodinkee
Richard Mille Owner Files Legal Action Jun 11, 2026

Business News: Richard Mille Owner Files Legal Action Against Liberty Media And COTA After $750,000 Watch Stolen At F1 Race

A Texas businessman filed legal action against Liberty Media and the operators of the Formula 1 racetrack in Austin, Circuit of the Americas (COTA), alleging they failed to protect patrons from a criminal gang targeting high-profile watches at the F1 Grand Prix of the United States.  The Richard Mille watch that was allegedly stolen by a gang at the F1 race in Austin.(Photo courtesy of Nicholas Saady, plaintiff's lawyer) Dean Whitlock alleges his Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split-Seconds Chronograph "LeBron James" was forcibly taken from his wrist by a group of thieves at the F1 race in October 2025. The theft occurred the day after another racegoer had their Richard Mille watch stolen by the same group of thieves at the event, the lawsuit, filed in the District Court of Travis County, Texas, alleges. A spokesperson for Formula 1, the racing series controlled by Liberty Media Corporation, declined to comment. Media representatives of the Circuit Of The Americas LLC did not respond to a request for comment. The companies have yet to respond to the lawsuit, which seeks "more than $200,000 but not more than $1,000,000" in damages and states that it will cost approximately $750,000 to replace the specific timepiece, according to secondary market values.  The case underscores the rising number of targeted luxury watch thefts in some regions. It raises questions as to who is responsible for personal security when someone wears a wristwatch valued at more than half a million dollars...

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture Hodinkee
Hermes Jun 9, 2026

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture

We've all been told at least once in life to stick to our own lane. It's an old trope that historically holds merit. Stick to one discipline, master it, and you'll succeed. But in 2026, the rulebook has changed in almost every aspect of life, and sometimes those one-trick ponies aren't the ones leading the charge; they're actually left in the stable. La Montre Hermès S.A in Brugg, Switzerland. In watchmaking, it transpires that the latest crop of brands to realize this are the names we most associate with being wider fashion houses. Empires sustained by hand-stitching legacy into cloth, amplified in the theatre of the catwalk, now play in the watchmaking arena. We've witnessed many of these names turn to watchmaking as an additional arm to their already bulletproof name, and crucially, they're delivering watches with real merit. For Hermès, despite having a presence in watchmaking since the early 20th century, with Universal Genève as the brand's watchmaking partner from the 1930s and the production of exclusively Hermès-signed pieces such as desk clocks, this rise has been built brick by brick since the 1970s. Outfitting horses came first, then their riders, and it quickly proved that true luxury comes from mastery, not scale. During the 1970s, the maison decided to build schools to train artisans the Hermès way, passing along hand-stitching, leather cutting, and scarf-printing techniques from master to apprentice. While other names pursued mass production or outsour...

Recommended Reading: 'Ultimate Collector Watches' From Taschen Offers A Scholarly Approach To Watch Books Hodinkee
Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches Jun 9, 2026

Recommended Reading: 'Ultimate Collector Watches' From Taschen Offers A Scholarly Approach To Watch Books

In two recent conversations, I repeated my frequently used adage: "I can't collect the watches, so I collect the knowledge." This was said when talking to two world-class collectors; one has one of the most complete collections of Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, and the other has probably the most important collection of Lange, F.P. Journe, and historical watches in the world. Both of them said the same thing, which I'll paraphrase. "I didn't have the money to collect these watches until X years ago, but before that, I was learning." That's why I own a lot of books—even if I probably will never reach those heights—and I'm always looking for more. Knowledge means a lot. Watch books often fall into two categories: either overly esoteric, with a ton of information, or overly broad, without a ton of information but with a lot of nice pictures. I have a bit of each, but I find myself returning to the former most often. You can glean a lot of information from books like AP's "20th Century Complicated Watches" or Patek Philippe's two-volume museum collection tomes, but you only need them once or twice a year. My books on Rolex Day-Dates or Khanjar Daytonas are awesome, but a bit less visited after the first pass. Dr. Helmut Crott's "The Dial" is maybe the most important book on my shelf, but sometimes more information than I want to sit and mindlessly digest. Taschen's new two-volume offering, "Ultimate Collectors Watches" by Charlotte and Peter Fiell, bridges the g...

Hands-On With Cartier’s Most Versatile Santos de Cartier Yet? WatchAdvice
Cartier s Most Versatile Santos Jun 9, 2026

Hands-On With Cartier’s Most Versatile Santos de Cartier Yet?

I take Cartier’s titanium version of the Santos de Cartier hands-on to see if it really is the more versatile option in the brand’s signature collection. What We Love: A fresh take on a Cartier icon Much more suited as a daily wearer Light, robust and still has a sense of elegance What We Don’t: No open caseback for the 1847 MC movement Price point may feel high compared to other sports watches that also showcase movement Would love to see more dial colours for variation Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It’s not every day that we see Cartier venture outside the norm with the Santos de Cartier collection. For years, this collection has been one of the more appealing sporty-dressy everyday watches on the market, bringing together sporty proportions, a clean dial aesthetic, and a bracelet design that wraps beautifully around the wrist. But what has made it such a standout and appealing choice is that unmistakable Cartier charm: refined, instantly recognisable, and versatile enough to sit somewhere between a sports watch with dressy appeal and a daily wearer. The Santos’s history goes all the way back to 1904. As the story goes, Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed a practical way to tell the time while flying. Rather than having to reach for a pocket watch mid-flight, which was the norm at the time, Santos-Dumont wanted something tha...

Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition Jun 9, 2026

Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai

Making its debut in Shanghai, Oyster Story is an all-encompassing, immersive exhibition to mark the centenary of the Rolex Oyster water-resistant watch case, arguably the foundational achievement of the world’s largest luxury watch brand. Oyster Story takes place at June 10-28 at the West Bund Dome Art Center, a former cement factory in a district that was once an industrial area but is now being transformed into an arts and culture hub. The large, domed-shaped building on the banks of the Huangpu River covers almost 100,000 square feet, allowing for a comprehensive journey into the Oyster and Rolex history. The exhibition includes historical Rolex watches, including the actual timepieces worn by explorers and adventurers on landmark expeditions. The watches on show comprise those owned by Rolex “as well as privately owned watches kindly loaned for the event” according to the brand. Also on show is an in-depth look at modern-day Rolex watchmaking. “Cases, bezels, bracelets, dials, materials, movements: every stage of watchmaking is showcased here”, allowing a look into arguably the most advanced high-end-industrial watch manufacturing in Switzerland. The brand’s advances in timekeeping are also illustrated by the atomic clock developed by Rolex. Amongst other things it serves as a reference clock for Rolex watchmaking. Oyster Story is free to enter and open to the public.  

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5396R-016 Annual Calendar Jun 9, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink”

Patek Phillippe’s 2026 collection is diverse, but one of my favourites is paradoxically one of the least novel: the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016 with a metallic “sand beige” dial and rose gold case. This is merely a new dial for a model that’s been in the collection for 20 years so it is not genuinely novel – though the movement has been upgraded and improved over that period – but it is appealing. The new ref. 5396R is handsome, and importantly, subtly evocative of vintage “pink on pink” watches, which pairs well with its traditional layout. Initial thoughts For anyone who likes old-school Patek Philippe design, the new ref. 5396R is likely the best looking annual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Both the colour and style are classic with a capital “C”. Ironically, it is perhaps the least interesting because neither the design nor movement are new, but this illustrates the fact that the appeal of a watch is more than just intrinsic feature and specs. Good looks, however, come at a price. The new ref. 5396R costs CHF54,000, or about US$67,000. It’s expensive but not outrageously so compared to the competition. For example, it’s about 5% pricier than the recent Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar, which is a better watch in most tangible respects, but not quite as pretty as the Patek Philippe. The premium pricing reflects Patek Philippe’s privilege as it has both the status and history to price as it desires – which the brand deserves. But ...