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The Heuer Carrera (1963) TAG Heuer

Jack Heuer\'s 1963 motorsport chronograph named after the Carrera Panamericana road race. Reference 2447, Valjoux 72 manual.
Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan

When it comes to collecting vintage watches, all roads lead back to Rome. Literally. Well, Rome’s home country, at least, where the passion for horology (and vintage Patek Philippe) permeates the culture, and has done so for decades, in a way that you really can’t find anywhere else. Add to that Milan’s status as fashion capital of the world, and it makes sense that Patek Philippe would host the seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. The free exhibition (with reserved tickets) is meant to celebrate the art of watchmaking viewed through the lens of the craftsmanship (both technically and artistically) of Patek past and future. It opens tomorrow, October 2, and runs until October 18. As is tradition, the brand has launched new watches to celebrate the moment—7 new limited editions and 25 Rare Handcrafts models using various métiers d’art.  Ben wrote about the big news of a new manual-wind perpetual calendar chronograph (limited to 120 pieces) here. We'll also be sharing all the Rare Handcrafts pieces soon in a Photo Report from Milan. But while they're not all new references, the new treatments of a few pretty outstanding watches deserve their own story. First things first, all of these watches are ostensibly for the Italian market. But hey, better to have loved and lost (...out on a chance to buy them) than to never know they existed. As of launch, Patek has not released pricing for this model. We will update the article when more information becomes avail...

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Complicated Calatravas Headline Patek Philippe Exhibition SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Exhibition Patek Philippe has Oct 1, 2026

Complicated Calatravas Headline Patek Philippe Exhibition

Patek Philippe has just unveiled a suite of new limited editions for the Italian market, which make their debut at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. While the showstopper is the new instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5978P, Patek Philippe has expanded its range of complicated Calatravas with the Minute Repeater ref. 7047G, a new variant of a format that launched during Watches & Wonders, and the Perpetual Calendar ref. 7147G, which applies the brand’s familiar cal. 240-based perpetual calendar to a carbon-embossed Calatrava for the first time. Rounding out the selection of limited editions for the Italian market is the white-dialled time-only Calatrava ref. 7007G, a new Aquanaut ref. 5167 in stainless steel, and two variants of the World Time Minute Repeater ref. 5531G with enamel dials produced by Anita Porchet’s studio. Calatrava Minute Repeater ref. 7047G-010 While Patek Philippe is not an official partner of Ferrari, the vivid red dial feels distinctly Italian, suiting the Northern Italian location of the event. The colour makes it part of a trio of Calatravas in the colours of the Italian flag, but also has a connection to the history of this particular branch of the Calatrava family, making the automotive association more interesting than a passing resemblance to a red sports car. This generation of Calatrava, distinguished by its embossed “carbon” pattern dial and contemporary Arabic numerals, dates to the limited edition ref....

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Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 5978P Steals Milan Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight

Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition has just opened in Milan, three years after its last residency in Tokyo. The regular exhibit pops up in a new city every few years, and serves as a local demonstration of the brand’s prowess across complications and métiers d’art. For the Milan edition, the flagship new release is the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5978P-010, which combines the instantaneous perpetual calendar system from the ref. 5207 with the brand’s manually wound cal. CH 29-535 chronograph movement. Visually, this combination of elements resembles the more upscale ref. 5208, but without the minute repeater functionality. Debuting in platinum, the blue-and-red ref. 5978P is limited to 120 pieces, but additional (non-limited) variants seem likely at some point in the future. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe was the first brand to combine the perpetual calendar and chronograph complications in a wristwatch. This breakthrough came surprisingly early in the history of the wristwatch — the fabled ref. 1518 debuted all the way back in 1941. Since then, this format has become almost synonymous with the brand. The ref. 5978P builds upon this legacy without retreading the same territory. For one thing, the watch eschews the familiar triple calendar dial layout of the refs. 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970, 5270, and their cushion-shaped and split-seconds variants. Instead, the dial adopts the layout of the ref. 5208, characterised by three calendar windows across...

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Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives Fratello
Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives

As of today, Patek Philippe has opened the doors to its seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition, this time in Milan. Alongside the exhibition itself, the Genevan watchmaker has introduced seven limited-edition watches reserved for the Italian market. They range from a new platinum perpetual calendar chronograph to minute repeaters, a perpetual calendar, a Calatrava, an […] Visit Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts? Fratello
Oct 1, 2026

Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts?

Brand ambassadors have long been part of the watch industry. From actors and athletes to musicians and explorers, these familiar faces help bring brands’ watches to a wider audience. But can that visibility do more than sell watches? Can it spark interest in horology among people who might never have given the hobby a second […] Visit Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts? to read the full article.

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In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons SJX Watches
Breguet stopping Oct 1, 2026

In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons

Conventional wisdom holds that stopping a tourbillon for precise time setting — “hacking” in watchmaking parlance — is a difficult endeavor given the constant rotation of the cage. The hacking tourbillon wristwatch didn’t arrive until 2008, courtesy of the A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret. In fact, hacking of any sort remained a rarity until the last few decades — ironic, since the primary function of the seconds hand has arguably evolved from a way to assess accuracy into an indicator that a watch is running. Some brands are still in the process of adding stop-seconds features to their basic calibres, and hacking remains scarcer still in wristwatch tourbillons, appearing with regularity only in the last two decades. But building for the waistcoat pocket, historical watchmakers have been stopping tourbillons for almost as long as they’ve been building them, and developed a number of solutions for this problem along the way, each stopping the tourbillon, or merely the seconds, in a different way. Breguet – stopping the seconds without stopping the watch Almost 225 years ago to the year, the French Ministry of the Interior granted Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 – 1823) a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon, a clever way to improve a watch’s marks during accuracy testing. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions, the “balance complete” — comprised of the balance, staff, roller, collet and balance spring — mu...

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Photo Report: Toronto Timepiece Show 2026 Hodinkee
Baltic Sep 30, 2026

Photo Report: Toronto Timepiece Show 2026

Walking through the halls of the Meridian Arts Center in Toronto, through the 90-ish brands assembled for the event by Jason Hutton and his team, it's hard to believe the Toronto Timepiece Show is only in its third edition. The show feels far more established than you'd expect from what is still a relatively nascent endeavor. It's an impressive feat, made all the more impressive by the explosion of Hutton's Timepiece Shows across Canada. Besides Toronto, this year's Timepiece Show made stops in Vancouver and — for the first time — Montréal. But Toronto is the original, and so I'm glad to have finally made it up to the Great White North to see what it's all about. This is what these shows are all about — finding moments to connect with other enthusiasts. Although, checking out the watches — like the latest offerings from Baltic — is important too. If you're not familiar with the concept, the Toronto Timepiece Show is one of several open-to-the-public watch fairs that have become core gathering points for enthusiasts around the world in recent years. Having now seen the Toronto Timepiece Show in person, I'm also convinced it's not one to miss. So, without further interruption, below is a look at just some of the watches, people, and moments I saw at 2026's edition of the Toronto Timepiece Show (and if you want to check out some of last year's show, you can see James's coverage here) Tudor Black Bay 54 The iconic Seiko Alpinist. Early Seamaster Professional 300M wi...

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Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection Fratello
IWC Mark-series design silhouette made Sep 30, 2026

Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection

When Earthen Co. debuted with the Summit, I was immediately intrigued. The combination of ceramic cases with the famous IWC Mark-series design silhouette made the watches instantly recognizable and stylish. But the Hong Kong-based brand did not compromise on specs and made them proper tool watches. Considering the friendly price of well under €1,000, it […] Visit Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection to read the full article.

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Why I Bought A Replica - An Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50, That Is Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50 Sep 30, 2026

Why I Bought A Replica - An Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50, That Is

Recently, we’ve received a fair number of messages about the Speedmaster ’57 Replica (or Re-edition, as Omega now refers to it). It’s still a Speedmaster variation that is under the radar for the masses, but can consistently count on praise from enthusiasts and collectors. So that’s why we thought it would be a good idea […] Visit Why I Bought A Replica — An Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50, That Is to read the full article.

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Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee Raymond Weil Sep 30, 2026

Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee

Raymond Weil kicked off its 50th anniversary earlier this year with the Fifty, a vintage-inspired limited edition chronograph powered by an appropriately historical vintage calibre. The party continues with the Millesime Jubilee, a larger but more accessible “panda” variant that borrows the Millesime’s “sector” dial and appealing “pump” pushers. Limited to 500 pieces, the Jubilee exchanges the vintage movement for a modern automatic calibre, and looses its predecessor’s white gold bezel. But it retains much of what made the Fifty attractive at less than half the price. The Fifty (left) with the Jubilee Initial thoughts Raymond Weil appears to be claiming renewed relevance after years in the wilderness. Established in 1976, it was one of the few watch brands founded during that difficult period to survive and prosper. Classical designs at accessible prices, backed by widespread advertising, made it a familiar name. At its peak in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the brand was selling some half a million watches per year. But the affordable luxury category became crowded, and Raymond Weil gave up ground to new entrants, languishing for a number of years. The Millesime has given the brand a more convincing identity, combining familiar vintage styling with unusually good attention to detail for the money. The Jubilee chronograph is no exception. The conical flange carrying the tachymeter scale is particularly appealing. Attractively snailed, it slopes gently tow...

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Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Hodinkee
Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Sep 29, 2026

Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007

For the life of me, I can't remember if I've ever owned an Alpinist. I think I did, for a little while. I know I at least borrowed one for a while, but the Alpinist was never as central to me as it has been for a lot of watch guys of my vintage (by that, I mean collectors who got into this whole thing in the late 2000s). If I did own an Alpinist, it was a brief, flirtatious affair meant to satisfy curiosity before I found my way back to the SKX (a watch I have owned many, many examples of). Still, the Alpinist — specifically the SARB017 Alpinist with its green dial, compass bezel, and gold numerals — seemed as close to omnipresent as a watch could get in my early days of collecting and learning. They made daily appearances on wristcheck channels on forums, and their sudden appearance on one of my friends' wrists was a great sign that they were becoming properly watch-enthused. It's hard to quantify the Alpinist's impact, but here's the thing: while the Alpinist may not be the Seiko thatmost watch enthusiasts collect today, if you control for "dive watch," I'd hazard a guess it's at least close. And in an era when it felt like a Seiko was the price of entry to "watch enthusiast," it was a watch that mattered. And then, it vanished. Okay, that's maybe a little dramatic. The Alpinist had a long run, and like so many of the watches Seiko introduced in the '90s and '00s, it was eventually sunsetted and, a few short years later, replaced with something that looks awfully sim...

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Breguet Revamps Its Iconic Marine Collection Worn & Wound
Breguet Revamps Sep 29, 2026

Breguet Revamps Its Iconic Marine Collection

Breguet has long been a brand with a deep reverence to its history spanning over 250 years. In this tradition, Breguet’s designs have remained consistent and timeless. The brand’s Marine collection is a core part of this lineage, with roots that trace back to 1815 when Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed watchmaker to the French Royal Navy by King Louis XVIII. At the time, these marine chronometers were crucial scientific instruments, but as years passed and needs changed, the collection later evolved throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. On the coattails of Breguet’s 250th anniversary last year, we’re really seeing the brand’s offerings come into the modern era with new design updates. The latest comes to the Marine collection, which the brand has revamped with a new aesthetic that aligns with its latest stylistic codes.Two references anchor the contemporary Marine line: the 5517, a classic time and date version, and the 5527, a chronograph. For the first time, both the Marine 5517 and 5527 will feature Breguet numerals and the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloche pattern that was unveiled to mark the 250th anniversary. This motif takes its name from the address on the Ile de la Cite where Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop and where his early marine chronometers were produced. Its design draws inspiration from two sources: first, the contours of the Ile de la Cite and Ile Saint-Louis as well as the repetitive movement of ocean waves. Several other ...

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Business News: Gallet’s Return Heralds Renewed Battle For Mid-Tier Priced Watch Segment Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Sep 29, 2026

Business News: Gallet’s Return Heralds Renewed Battle For Mid-Tier Priced Watch Segment

Backed by Breitling's House of Brands group, Gallet's return was hotly anticipated and closely scrutinized. Priced between $2,900 for a three-hand Flying Officer model with date and about $6,700 for the vintage-inspired 'Classics' models, replete with Breitling B09 hand-wound calibers, the revived brand's pricing at Breitling boutiques is certainly aggressive.  Gallet's rebirth and price-category decision mark the most high-profile and ambitious attempt by the Swiss watch industry to reclaim a space it once owned but has largely ceded in recent years to so-called 'boutique' or micro-brands that have filled the gap left by traditional Swiss brands moving upscale.Over the past decade, brands have climbed the value-category ladder even higher, making fewer watches at higher prices. The so-called mid-tier premium—or luxury watches with an MSRP between $2,000 and $5,000—was once dominated by Swiss brands from Omega to Breitling to TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre. And while TAG Heuer still produces plenty of watches in the category, including the solar-powered quartz Formula 1, much of its development and marketing resources have been focused on new pricier versions of classic chronographs housed in titanium or other lightweight materials including the highly innovative, but eye-wateringly expensive, Monaco 'Evergraph' retailing at more than $28,000. Several of the new Gallet watches are available on a steel bracelet that is the same used on some Breitling models. Photo Cre...

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Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Set Shatters Auction Record SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s steel Grandmaster Chime Sep 29, 2026

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Set Shatters Auction Record

When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...

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Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Achieves Record Price SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s steel Grandmaster Chime Sep 29, 2026

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Achieves Record Price

When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...

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Visiting Manufacture La Joux-Perret SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Sep 29, 2026

Visiting Manufacture La Joux-Perret

Manufacture La Joux-Perret (MLJP) has become an increasingly important supplier to the growing ranks of micro-brands and independent watchmakers, offering capable Swiss movements at accessible prices. Though a fraction of the size of its neighbour Sellita, the manufacture has expanded through a pragmatic combination of selective automation, a more focused movement catalogue, and careful investments in production. Its approach offers an instructive look at how Swiss watchmaking can remain competitive while retaining the skills needed to produce everything from solar quartz movements to hand-finished tourbillons under one roof. To find out more about MLJP, we visited the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, one of the historical centres of watchmaking in the Swiss Jura. A primer on MLJP The history of MLJP can be traced to the revival of complicated watchmaking in the early 1990s. Established by Jean-Pierre Jaquet in 1990 under his own name, the firm supplied specialised movements, including shaped calibres and complications, to the growing fine watchmaking segment. Among its best-known offerings of that era was a monopusher chronograph designed by François-Paul Journe and produced for clients like Franck Muller and Girard-Perregaux. Loosely related to the cal. 045MC that Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) developed previously for Cartier, the platform remains in production today as the cal. A5000, one of the manufacture’s more upmarket movements. The cal. A5000 in an ...

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Introducing: Ianos Amfivios (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Sep 28, 2026

Introducing: Ianos Amfivios (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Ianos, the Greek microbrand best known for its Greek history and culture-inspired dive watches like the Avyssos and the Dytis, is back with a new dive watch that was never meant to be. When Ianos introduced the Dytis last year, it was noted as the last in a trilogy of dive watches from Ianos, after which they would move on to the next thing. Well, Ianos is still mostly sticking to that story, but in the meantime, we have the Ianos Amfivios, a civilian edition of a special-edition watch Ianos produced last summer for Greece's Underwater Demolition Command. The new watch, built on the same dive-watch platform as last summer's Dytis (which TanTan went hands-on with here), is a solid next step for a brand that has iterated gently, even as it's taken big aesthetic swings in developing its collection. And truly, few, if any, other watches on the market scratch the same itch as Ianos's watches do. That said, the Amfivios is about as mass-appeal a watch as Ianos has produced, thanks to the military-demanded touches that set it apart from the Dytis. The Amfivios is, for example, the first dive watch since the original Avyssos to include any kind of scale on the rotating bezel. And where previous Ianos watches have used the small seconds subdial as a visual gag, here it is a functional subdial, with hands, markers, and everything. That's not to say Ianos has purged all that makes these watches, frankly, a little funky, though. The unique date at 12 remains, with ...

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Guitarist Josh Smith Is Not A Purist; He’s An Open-Minded Musician AND Watch Fan Fratello
Sep 28, 2026

Guitarist Josh Smith Is Not A Purist; He’s An Open-Minded Musician AND Watch Fan

You might want to know who Josh Smith is. I mean, guitar players don’t often headline a Fratello story. Guitarist Josh Smith was born on October 7th, 1979, in Middletown, Connecticut, and is an American blues-rock guitarist, vocalist, songwriter, and producer whose playing sits comfortably at the intersection of blues, jazz, and rock. He received […] Visit Guitarist Josh Smith Is Not A Purist; He’s An Open-Minded Musician AND Watch Fan to read the full article.

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