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Time+Tide
Well, I have definitely been racking up some miles of late. Following the launch of the Norqain Wild One in Zermatt, I was scarcely back in New York City before heading off to Paris for the launch of the TAG Heuer x Porsche 911 Carrera R.S. 2.7 Limited Editions in honour of the classic car’s 50th … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Porsche parade in Paris with TAG Heuer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Coinciding with the launch of the UR-120 with its novel, split-cube display, Urwerk is documenting its journey from the very beginning with an exhibition in Singapore that’s part of the brand’s 25th anniversary celebration. Organised in collaboration with its Asian retailer The Hour Glass, Every Moment Counts offers a look at the brand’s history through its historical products as well as intriguing archival photographs, all straight out of the brand’s museum. Other items on show include sketches, trophies, and memorabilia that offer a full picture of the brand and its two founders, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. At bottom right is a sketch of one of the brand’s foundational models, the UR-101 Reflecting the brand’s philosophy and house style, the exhibition has a futuristic aesthetic, such as the neon green and black display for the historical timepieces that brings to mind the luminous time display found on many of the brand’s watches. But the exhibition is also about nostalgia and includes a “Watchmaker’s Studio” with soft lighting that showcases photos from the founders’ childhood, which played a major role in shaping their avant-garde approach to watchmaking. The exhibition includes landmark watches like the UR-103 and UR-201 For technically-minded enthusiasts, the “Immersive Room” displays the exploded movement of the UR-111C on the wall, revealing in detail the workings of the intriguing cylindrical drum display. The UR-111C Every Mom...
Deployant
The X-33 series is as much a practical modern Speedmaster as it is an impractical one. While the main arguments against practicality are the usefulness of functions, this point is mostly moot when it comes to luxury timepieces. That said, with high end Quartz timepieces, one has to consistently remind oneself to monitor the battery life, battery conditions and replace batteries in a timely fashion. This comes at a risk of melting batteries, out of sync micro chips and other general issues from neglect. Since most watch collectors would have more than a handful of watches, it is not uncommon for part or most of their collection to go without wear for a long period of time. That's mostly fine for mechanical timepieces, but it does get concerning with a high-end quartz timepiece. Priced at SGD$9350, the new X-33 with its ESA collaboration shares the same price tag as the Moonwatch. It is undoubtedly lesser loved by mechanical watch fans, but does have its own novelty factor. However, considering the perceived value of quartz to mechanical Speedmasters, it might take a real Space fan to truly appreciate the X-33.
Deployant
TAG Heuer strengthens its entry level position with the release of three new Formula 1 Chronographs in bright racing colours powered by quartz movements.
Deployant
A new (est 2018) French independent Depancel releases the Serie-A Stradale, a new neo-vintage inspired meca-quartz chronograph.
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Deployant
The new release marks Kurono's success once again in textbook execution of a product launch. It begins with a great design, good pricing and finishes with great marketing. Riding on Hajime's popularity, the brand story benefits from the watchmaker's credibility. The design is classic and accessible, with finishing that is a bar above most in its segment. It also benefits from finding a niche in the USD1-4k segment, in a non-mass production vertical. Its limited production possibly limited by assembly and manufacturing capacity works ironically in its favor, to create scarcity.
Time+Tide
Watchmaking in America was a thriving industry prior to the quartz crisis. But while some American manufactures either were absorbed by foreign conglomerates, or went out of business altogether, today more and more American watch brands are coming back into the fold. See how many current American watch brands you know below.The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #17 “American Watch Brands” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2022 Vacheron Constantin introduced watches in a diverse range, but sandwiched in between the artisanal decoration and complications was a new addition to the Historiques collection of vintage remakes. An unexpected launch given that Vacheron Constantin (VC) already has a luxury-sports watch in its lineup, and largely focuses on dress watches and complications in any case, the Historiques 222 was nevertheless a highlight amongst the new launches, especially given the current appetite for such watches. But the 222 is more than just something that caters to today’s fads. It is a sympathetic remake that manages to incorporate substantial, hidden improvements while preserving the look of the original – but not the feel thanks to a significantly improved bracelet. Initial thoughts As the Overseas has long matured into an established collection amongst VC’s offerings, the return of its predecessor is surprising. My initial reaction was that it is confusing to offer two different luxury sports watch models simultaneously, but it makes sense given that the 222 is a Historiques model, a vintage remake in other words. Not only does VC have a track record of reviving vintage models in style, the 222 can cater to an audience that seeks something more elegant and compact than the Overseas. It’s likely that the return of the 222 was a deliberate decision on VC’s part to create a luxury-sports watch that is different. Of the three luxury sports watches ...
SJX Watches
Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva is a 201-lot sale that comprises a myriad of rare and unusual timepieces. The selection of independent watchmaking at The Geneva Watch Auction: XV is particularly interesting, including several early and historically significant timepieces from high-profile brands. We round up five of the most notable watches, ranging from an F.P. Journe Resonance from the year of its launch, as well as early, unique pieces from Daniel Roth and Kari Voutilainen, a skeleton, double-face tourbillon and Decimal Repeater respectively. The Daniel Roth double-face tourbillon that is possibly unique thanks to the sapphire dials on both the front and back Granted, several of the watches we’re covering below will finish well into six figures. But even if you are not planning to bid, they are worth learning about. We provide a close look at rare watches that are rarely encountered. That said, there’s an eminently affordable example of excellent, honest independent watchmaking in the sale: the Habring² Erwin “Star”, the first-ever SJX Edition that was launched last year to 10th anniversary of this site. Though a handful have sold on the secondary market since – including one that sold on Loupe This for US$15,400 – this is the first example to go under the hammer at a major, international auction house. The Geneva Watch Auction: XV takes place at Hôtel La Réserve in Geneva, with the first session happening on May 7 and the second session on the day...
Time+Tide
Fortis is no stranger to outer space. The 1962 Spacematic presented to Gemini astronauts paved the way for Fortis’ space-dwelling endeavours, before partnering cosmonaut expeditions between 1992 and 2003 and achieving the ultimate goal of sending a watch into space. Now, some three decades later, Fortis launch an in-house chronograph movement, the WERK 17, both … ContinuedThe post Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Revolution
Louis Moinet presents a new tale of imaginative watchmaking in its latest launch, the Astronef that is powered by the caliber LM105 that drove its iconic Space Revolution watch.
Time+Tide
It’s been an eventful week so let’s get right into it. To kick things off, I spent the weekend with Maurice Lacroix down in Miami to celebrate the launch of their latest evolution of the Aikon: the Aikon #tide. The Aikon #tide is both a playful and principled release, a colourful daily wearer with an … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In Miami with Maurice Lacroix, MoonSwatch mania, and W&W; excitement! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Today the watch world was stunned when word got out that Swatch and Omega have collaborated to bring us a set of 11 new, affordably-priced "Speedmasters." Now, considering the available color options, the proprietary BioCeramic cases, and reliable quartz movements - it's clear that these will be a hit with everyone from budget-conscious collectors to hardcore Speedy fanatics.
Revolution
Forget Robin, Batman has a new partner for some serious horological ‘POW’ and ‘BAM’ in the shape of Jacob & Co. Well known for its affiliation with rappers, rock stars and cultural royalty, Jacob & Co is no stranger to high-profile personalities but now it has reached new, skyscraping heights with the launch of the Gotham City watch…
![Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Zenith-Chronomaster-Revival-Poker-Chip-Loupe-This.jpg)
SJX Watches
A limited edition launched at the end of 2021, the Zenith Chronometer Revival “Poker Chip” was the result of a collaboration between our founder and the watchmakers in Le Locle. One of them just popped up for sale at online auctioneer Loupe This – the first example to go under the hammer. The 200 pieces sold out at launch, making this a perfect opportunity for anyone who missed out last year. If the funky dial appears familiar, that’s because the Poker Chip reimagines the G383, one of the standout designs from the first references of the El Primero. While the G383 had a lavish, gold-on-black palette, the Poker Chip is entirely contemporary. Its dial is generously “lumed” – even the strap glows in the dark – bringing it to life at night, with the aesthetic alluding to the disco era of 1960s and 1970s when the G383 was born. [Update March 17, 2022: The Poker Chip sold for US$16,500 including fees on Loupe This.] The case is a micro-blasted titanium coated in DLC, which complements the military-esque dial. Notably the Poker Chip was the first – and remains the only – classic, 38 mm El Primero with a titanium case. Continuing the blend of new and old, the movement is the original El Primero 400 that’s almost identical to the 1969 original. As it is being phased out, this movement was chosen instead of the latest-generation El Primero 3600 (which has a lightning seconds), making the Poker Chip one of the last watches with the landmark calibre. Accompani...
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SJX Watches
A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...
Quill & Pad
Zeitgeist marks the five-year anniversary of the launch of Armin Strom’s patented resonance technology and focuses on the brand’s ideals and commitment to innovation in watchmaking by going back to the roots of watchmaking while remaining entirely cutting edge.
SJX Watches
Originally launched with a quartz movement in early 2021, the Tissot PRX really caught on when it got an automatic movement a few months later. Equipped with a cost-efficient yet high tech ETA calibre, the PRX Powermatic 80 costs just US$650 – making it an easily affordable iteration of the integrated-bracelet sports watch. Initial thoughts Modelled on the Seastar ref. 40205 launched in 1978 – it’s practically a remake in fact – the PRX Powermatic 80 doesn’t try to do too much. Instead it focuses on doing just a few things right, just enough to look good while maintaining its affordability. Its modest price tag is evident up close, but the PRX still looks good enough on the wrist. The PRX Powermatic 80 successfully reproduces the feel of the 1978 original. It’s a little bit bigger, but still compact by modern standards. More importantly, the PRX retains the right proportions in terms of case, bracelet, and dial. One of its best features is its size. At 40 mm wide and 10.9 mm high, the PRX is just right. The case middle is fairly thin and matched with an equally thin bracelet – that has a solid double-fold clasp – giving it a refined feel on the wrist. As for the design, it’s a good look – and certainly a popular one today – but derivative. That’s because the 1978 original itself was fairly generic. The 1978 Seastar was just one of many watches that shared a style that was popular in the late 1970s and well into the 1980s. One of the most obvio...
SJX Watches
Leaked online prior to its launch – David Beckham inadvertently revealed the watch on his Instagram account – the Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” was widely expected yet surprisingly, at least in the metal. Developed in collaboration with the combat divers of the Commando Hubert, an elite unit of the Commandos Marine, part of the special forces of the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. The divers covertly travel underwater in pairs, and the Pelagos FXD is one of the tools they use for aquatic navigation. The FXD revives the relationship Tudor maintained with the French Navy for several decades starting in the 1950s when the watchmaker first supplied the navy with dive watches. A Submariner ref. 9401/0 issued to French navy divers in the 1970s Initial thoughts I liked the idea of the FXD when I first saw the photos, and seeing it in the metal reinforced my opinion, enough that I bought one. Beyond its tangible qualities its best characteristic in my opinion is its status as the only watch developed as a military-issue timepiece – that is currently in active service with a unit – in the mid- to high-end segment of modern watchmaking. This sets the FXD apart from watches made by other brands that supply military units with civilian watches bearing the unit insignia, as brands like IWC, Breitling, and Bell & Ross do. Being a military-issue watch the FXD is straightforward, but it also boasts the attention to detail one expects from Tudor, even on the finish...
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!
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Time+Tide
Ever since Sean Connery’s Jame Bond emerged from the ocean in Goldfinger and peeled off his wetsuit to reveal a tuxedo beneath, the question has always been there: should you wear a diving watch with formalwear? (Bond was wearing the Rolex Submariner ref 6538 by the way.) The question arises following the recent launch of … ContinuedThe post Have dive watches just received official formalwear approval? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Söhne launches the Zeitwerk Lumen in a limited edition Honeygold case on October 24, 2021. The brand’s own special gold alloy adds fresh appeal to one of its technically most complex pieces. But there is much more to this launch rooted in history as Sabine Zwettler notes.
Revolution
Eight days into the month of October 2021, Revolution is delighted to announce the official launch of the Pink Dial Project 2021.
Hodinkee
Logan gives the lowdown on his seven selects from launch week.
Time+Tide
You Can’t Ask That, Part 1: Why are AP collections always so controversial when they launch? Introducing a conversation series on YouTube… This is the first video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. The title refers to how direct … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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