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Hands-On: the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On: the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon

We live in a very good time for independent watchmaking. I know that may sound like an oddly specific metric by which to judge the world, but it’s true. There was a time, not so long ago, when an enthusiast watch collector looking for a highly complicated watch would have struggled to find what they were looking for outside the worlds of Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. Perhaps the occasional Blancpain or Breguet might make a splash, but in the wake of the quartz crisis, the contracted watch industry focused on what it did best for the sake of its own survival, and we should all be grateful for that. Thankfully, in 2024, those days are gone, or at least mitigated. Since the mid-‘90s, the rise of independents has been one of the watch industry’s key narrative arcs, and, now, collectors looking to patronize the sort of small, unique, highly technical brands lost to them in the ‘70s and ‘80s are truly spoiled for choice. It is out of this transition that Laurent Ferrier has emerged not only as one of the watch world’s preeminent names but as a perfect encapsulation of how the industry has evolved over the last few decades. And there is no better watch to summarize that point than Laurent Ferrier’s new Classic Moon, introduced at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. But before getting to that watch, it’s worth spending a little bit of time thinking about Laurent Ferrier (the person, not the brand). Now, I’m not going to give you a complete accounting of t...

What Are The Least Expensive IWC Watches? Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Nov 5, 2024

What Are The Least Expensive IWC Watches?

IWC Schaffhausen is the quintessential example of a watchmaker that set out to become famous for one thing but ended up being famous for something else. Founded in 1868 by American expat Florentine Ariosto Jones, the International Watch Company devoted itself chiefly to luxuriously decorated pocket watches in its early years but when the military needs of a European continent at war came calling in the 1940s, Jones’ firm shifted its production to focus on decidedly no-frills, robust, utilitarian wristwatches for use in the cockpits of planes. Fast forwarding to today, most watch enthusiasts still regard IWC first and foremost as a leader in the pilot’s watch genre. But that wasn’t always the case, and in fact, IWC’s 21st-Century collection is about as diverse as that of any watch brand out there. For a newbie to the brand, however, that diversity — and even the diversity within the vastly expanded Pilot’s collection itself — can prove daunting, especially when attempting to choose which IWC watches offer the price-to-value ratio that would motivate one to pull the trigger on a purchase. In this latest article in our recently inaugurated Price of Admission series, I will attempt to help you make sense of IWC’s modern collection from an entry-level pricing standpoint, homing in on the best models to consider as one’s “first” IWC watch.  PILOT’S WATCHES: IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 36 ($4,350) It’s appropriate to start our exploration with the Pilot...

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 Fratello
Casio n Gerald Charles Maestro Nov 4, 2024

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916

During Geneva Watch Days 2024, Gerald Charles announced the exclusive Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 created in collaboration with Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati. The watch celebrates the 30th anniversary of the legendary Ducati 916 motorcycle. It features Gerald Charles’s well-known Maestro case with a ruby-red vulcanized rubber strap for the occasion. Gerald Charles Maestro […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Fratello
Breguet Classique 5177 Vs Nov 3, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Last week, two dress-watch giants presented new versions of existing watches in their collections. First, A. Lange & Söhne showed us four new references of the Lange 1 to celebrate the model’s 30th anniversary. Then, Breguet presented us with a new platinum version of both the Classique 5177 and 7787. So, for this week’s Sunday […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 to read the full article.

Halloween Watches: Be Afraid, Very Afraid This Year! - Ghoulish Wristwear From Bell & Ross, Mr Jones, Scurfa, And More Fratello
Bell & Ross Mr Jones Scurfa Oct 31, 2024

Halloween Watches: Be Afraid, Very Afraid This Year! - Ghoulish Wristwear From Bell & Ross, Mr Jones, Scurfa, And More

What better way to celebrate the dark day of Halloween than with some scary wristwear? I’m not talking about electrified watches that’ll zap you in the night, but it could mean some newfound color for your watch box. In fact, some Halloween watches are cool all year round. This year, I have found great examples, […] Visit Halloween Watches: Be Afraid, Very Afraid This Year! - Ghoulish Wristwear From Bell & Ross, Mr Jones, Scurfa, And More to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus Oct 31, 2024

Fratello Talks: The Patek Philippe Cubitus

This week on Fratello Talks, we examine the Patek Philippe Cubitus. Nacho, Lex, and Daan join forces to discuss this hotly debated release from one of the world’s most prestigious watch brands. Initially leaked via a magazine ad, the watch did not receive the warmest welcome from watch enthusiasts. And despite journalists at the launch […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Patek Philippe Cubitus to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Oct 30, 2024

Introducing: The New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” has just become the latest addition to the brand’s collection. This titanium GMT watch uses the Pelagos FXD as a base, adding a 24-hour bezel, 24-hour hand, and a new METAS-certified movement. The result is the brand’s most accurate and adventure-ready watch to date. Speaking of dates, this […] Visit Introducing: The New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.

Hublot and Takashi Murakami Team Up for the New MP-15 Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow Worn & Wound
Hublot Oct 29, 2024

Hublot and Takashi Murakami Team Up for the New MP-15 Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow

There is always something so intriguing to me about a collaboration when the brands really just go for it. But, I guess if one of the collaborators is Takashi Murakami, it’s sort of hard not to. For those uninitiated, Murakami is a contemporary Japanese artist whose work is at once psychedelic and joyful – but leans just a tad into the grotesque. But even if you don’t know the name, you’re undoubtedly familiar with the artist’s work. Murakami has collaborated with a wide range of celebrities, from Marc Jacobs to Kanye West (long before his anti semitic rants, for the record) to Pharrell Williams. And now, Murakami adds yet another collaboration with Hublot. The MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow is really one of those watches that makes you pause. It will, undoubtedly, have its naysayers who might prefer a more conservative style; but there’s something incredibly charming about this one for me. On the one hand, there is a level of craftsmanship that’s evident even from the photos; but it’s also an element of playfulness that intrigues me – especially when we’re talking about a watch that’s in the *ahem* $374,000 price range. You may remember that Murakami and Hublot have previously collaborated in the past, most notably on the Classic Fusion model with a decidedly Murakami lean. But that was just putting Murakami’s art within the context of Hublot. In 2023, they had released an MP-15 that showed the floral design but in a skeletal ca...

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why the Atomic Clock Was Invented Worn & Wound
Oct 29, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why the Atomic Clock Was Invented

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the third installment in Andrew Canter’s series, The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. Today, Andrew examines the history of atomic timekeeping, from its earliest conception, to its potential future. Atomic timekeeping and atomic clocks are often misunderstood, but they form a framework for modern timekeeping standards that is, ultimately, indispensable.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. “A more universal unit of time might be found by taking the periodic time of vibration of the particular kind of light whose wavelength is the unit of length.” James Clerk Maxwell, Scottish Physicist from his Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism dated 1873 Cover page of James C. Maxwell’s A Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism, published in 1873. It was way back in 1900 that the German physicist Max Planck suggested that the energy of an atomic oscillator is quantised. Albert Einstein extended this concept in 1905, explaining that electromagnetic radiation is localised in packets, later referred to as photons, of frequency and energy. This was the beginning of the journey that led to the invention of the Atomic Clock. How does an Atomic Clock Work An atomic clock is a type of clock that uses certain resonance frequencies of atoms to keep time with extreme accuracy. The electronic components of atomic clocks are regulated by the frequency of microwave electromagnetic radiation. Only when t...

The Elegantly Concise Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar PAM01453 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar PAM01453 Oct 28, 2024

The Elegantly Concise Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar PAM01453

Panerai raised some eyebrows when it installed the newly developed perpetual calendar movement in the beefy Luminor. Now the brand brings the complication to its more elegant, but still oversized, wristwatch with the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453. Initial thoughts The Radiomir collection has always been Panerai’s most elegant offering, with some older models even being dress watches, albeit in Panerai style. The slimmer cushion-shaped case, wire lugs, and onion crown evoke the early wristwatches. Compared to the bulkier Luminor, the Radiomir is more adaptable in terms of design and complications, and consequently sometimes departs from the brand’s signature military look. A complication such as a perpetual calendar tends to fit better in more classical designs. For that reason, the perpetual calendar didn’t feel at home in the Luminor format. Bringing the perpetual calendar to the Radiomir seems like the sensible thing to do. The PAM01453 is handsome, especially with a case in Goldtech, Panerai’s proprietary rose gold alloy of platinum and copper that the brand claims to have superior durability.  Though more elegant, the PAM01453 is still a rather large watch in typical Panerai style and measures 45mm across. The slim lugs and the leather strap should increase wearability to some extent, but the piece remains imposing. The P.4100 The PAM01453 celebrates in part the first Panerai watch prototype that was developed in 1935, a timepiece that was ...

Sign Up For The Breitling Event In The Hague On November 29th Fratello
Breitling Event Oct 24, 2024

Sign Up For The Breitling Event In The Hague On November 29th

Breitling is celebrating its 140th anniversary in 2024, so we thought it would only be right to host a special Breitling × Fratello event in The Hague, Netherlands. Vintage Breitling expert Fred Mandelbaum will be there as a special guest to discuss the brand’s incredible heritage. Breitling × Fratello event Breitling has always been one […] Visit Sign Up For The Breitling Event In The Hague On November 29th to read the full article.

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches Fratello
Casio n Oct 24, 2024

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches

It’s hard to believe that 30 years have passed since the first Lange 1 was introduced. Yet, here we are, and to celebrate this special occasion, A. Lange & Söhne has crafted four new limited-edition versions of the brand’s most famous watch. As we’ll see, Lange is bringing a pair of dial and case materials […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches to read the full article.

30 Years of the Lange 1 with Onyx or Blue SJX Watches
Casio n Oct 24, 2024

30 Years of the Lange 1 with Onyx or Blue

It seems like just yesterday that A. Lange & Söhne celebrated its 25th anniversary with the 10-piece Lange 1 set. But turning 30 is always a big deal, and the brand has risen to the occasion with limited editions of its flagship Lange 1 and its smaller sibling, the Little Lange 1, including a version with the brand’s first-ever mineral stone dial on a watch without gemstones. Both the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 30th Anniversary are available in pink gold with a navy blue dial, or in platinum with a black dial – both versions evoking uncommon historical versions of the model. Lange typically reserves the latter configuration for its special editions, and in this case the degree of specialness is dialled up a notch with a dial crafted from black onyx. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that I have a soft spot for Lange. Nevertheless, I’ve never warmed up to their black-dialled watches, including the Datograph, which I feel look a bit flat. Judging by the press images, the black onyx dial of the Lange 1 30th anniversary is a different animal; deep and glossy. The pink gold and navy blue references are also attractive, but it’s the platinum and black models that immediately captured my attention and have continued to occupy my thoughts. In most ways, the 30th anniversary editions of the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 are no different from the standard models. The cases measure 38.5 mm and 36.8 mm, respectively, and are about 10 mm thick. Naturally, the platinum models are ...

Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions Fratello
Oct 23, 2024

Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions

Whenever the Norwegian brand Straum unveils something new, we are all ears at Fratello. Most of you will know we love the brand and collaborated on the Fratello × Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition. In a new adventure, brand founders Lasse Roxrud Farstad and Øystein Helle Husby created three special new dials for the much-praised […] Visit Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions to read the full article.

Introducing: The Czapek Faubourg De Cracovie Crossroads Fratello
Czapek Faubourg De Cracovie Crossroads Oct 18, 2024

Introducing: The Czapek Faubourg De Cracovie Crossroads

When we think of Czapek, the Antarctique comes to mind. However, the popular brand has several other models within its lineup. The Faubourg de Cracovie is a chronograph with uniquely designed integrated pushers. Czapek has endowed this model with various dial designs. Today’s guilloché dials inspire the name Crossroads. Czapek’s rise to watch stardom has […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Faubourg De Cracovie Crossroads to read the full article.

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10 Chronograph SJX Watches
Breguet Oct 17, 2024

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10 Chronograph

Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet. Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery. Initial thoughts Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand. The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750. But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action. The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound ...

Celebrating 20 Years Of Patrimony With The New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora Ïto Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora Ïto Oct 17, 2024

Celebrating 20 Years Of Patrimony With The New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora Ïto

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony feels like a classic collection that has been around forever. However, you may be surprised to learn that it celebrates only its 20th anniversary this year. Still, it stands on the shoulders of much older VC creations in spirit and style, as we will see in a moment. To mark the […] Visit Celebrating 20 Years Of Patrimony With The New Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora Ïto to read the full article.

Celebrating The 100th Anniversary Of The First Citizen Watch Fratello
Citizen Watch Oct 16, 2024

Celebrating The 100th Anniversary Of The First Citizen Watch

The year 2024 marks a century since the introduction of the world’s first Citizen watch. To celebrate this significant milestone, Citizen has taken a curated selection of 100 watches, split into 12 design categories, from its over-6,000-watch archive on tour. Its first stop was in Tokyo before moving on to New York, and now the […] Visit Celebrating The 100th Anniversary Of The First Citizen Watch to read the full article.

Transmission from an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Skeptic: the Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second Worn & Wound
Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second I Oct 15, 2024

Transmission from an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Skeptic: the Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second

I have a confession to make: I’m a bit of an integrated bracelet sports watch skeptic.   As the watch community went crazy for integrated, Gerald Genta inspired designs over the last few years, I largely observed from the bench. Watches like the Royal Oak, the Nautilus, and newer challengers like Moser’s Streamliner and Chopard’s reissued (and heavily redesigned) Alpine Eagle have always been curiosities at best, for me. I’ve never lusted after an integrated bracelet sports watch. It feels like that’s almost transgressive to say, or at least would have been at the height of Royal Oak mania a few years ago – but it’s just never been a real point of interest for me.  Now, part of the reason for that is certainly the prohibitive price point of many of the most sought after integrated bracelet sports watches. I don’t have thirty thousand dollars (or more) to spend on a watch, and quite frankly if I did, I think I could find other watches I’d prefer for the money.  But it’s not just the expense. I’ve never been a fan of the way these watches look on my wrist. Even if I admire the craftsmanship of a Royal Oak bracelet – because it’s honestly undeniable – something about the hard angles just didn’t do it for me.  Anyway, skeptic though I am, part of the deal when you work in the watch media world is that you just get to see and try on a lot of stuff. And so there I was at Windup Chicago earlier this year, checking out watches at the Citizen boot...

Fratello On Air: The Vintage Watches On Our List Fratello
Oct 15, 2024

Fratello On Air: The Vintage Watches On Our List

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, your hosts discuss the vintage watches currently tickling their collective fancies. Before that, though, there’s plenty of banter about sneakers and watches. For your convenience, watch content starts after 20 minutes. Vintage watches are some of our favorites. We’re always looking and thinking about […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Vintage Watches On Our List to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Atelier Wen Perception Titanium Millésime Mù Fratello
Atelier Wen Oct 7, 2024

Hands-On: The Atelier Wen Perception Titanium Millésime Mù

Atelier Wen has enjoyed a meteoric increase in popularity over the past two years. The independent brand has shed a positive light on Chinese watchmaking while producing attractive watches with finishes and materials normally found on more expensive pieces. To celebrate the fans who have brought so much success to the company, a limited-edition Perception […] Visit Hands-On: The Atelier Wen Perception Titanium Millésime Mù to read the full article.

Introducing – The Czapek Antarctique for GMT Milano Edition Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique Oct 4, 2024

Introducing – The Czapek Antarctique for GMT Milano Edition

In 2020, five years after reviving the name of a distinguished 19th-century Geneva-based Czech-born Polish watchmaker with the launch of the Quai des Bergues collection, Czapek introduced its take on the popular genre of steel sports watches with an integrated bracelet, the Antarctique, powered by the brand’s first in-house movement. The model quickly gained well-deserved […]

Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) Fratello
Omega Speedmaster FOiS First Omega Oct 3, 2024

Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space)

Almost four years ago, we announced that Omega was discontinuing the Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) model. The watch debuted in 2012 to commemorate the first Omega chronograph worn in space on the wrist of NASA astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra during his Sigma 7 mission. The Speedmaster on Schirra’s wrist was a second-generation (CK2998) […] Visit Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) to read the full article.