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Time+Tide
Skeleton dials are interesting, not because they offer a garish look at something exposed but because they showcase the sheer level of complexity involved in modern watchmaking. Without searching for photos of the movement of your watch online, or doing a John Goldberger (and opening your million dollar Rolex 4113 with a cheese knife), the … ContinuedThe post The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Last year’s Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain made its young creator, Rexhep Rexhepi, a star, but the brand’s foundational watch is actually the “AK” series. Chunky and slightly sporty, the AK watches are a world away from the classical styling of the Chronomètre Contemporain, but boast the same level of movement finishing, along with a bonus of elaborately hand-hammered dials. The second model in the AK series was the AK-02 Tourbillon Heure Minute, or “Hour Minute” – a time-only watch with a tourbillon regulator. The AK-02 is probably the finest finished tourbillon wristwatch in its price segment, and in the price segments above it as well. The AK case It’s a fairly large watch, with the case measuring 43.0mm with and 12.9mm high. But the lugs are short so it feels fairly compact on the wrist. And because the AK-02 is typically found in a steel case, as is pictured here, or occasionally titanium, it is usually lightweight. Gold cases are available for a modest premium, though rarely requested. The case feels like it’s trying too hard, and consequently feels overly built, with thick lugs and a high case band. It’s too chunky for my taste, and doesn’t quite suit the refined movement inside. That being said, the AK-style case has it fans for several reason. The design is distinctive, more distinctive than the old school Chronomètre Contemporain case. And it is also finished to a high degree, with contrasting polished and brushed surfaces; the...
SJX Watches
In 2016, Cartier unveiled one of the most dramatic examples of an orbital regulator – the Astromysterieux – in which the entire movement was suspended in the oculus of the watch dial, mysteriously unencumbered by any visible support. The Astromysterieux sits in the same class of exotic regulators as the Ulysse Nardin Freak, Piaget Tourbillon Relatif, and Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital – and unsurprisingly, three of the four were conceived by the same watchmaker. Previously only available in palladium, the brand has now introduced a striking pink gold version with a black guilloche chapter ring. The dimensions of the watch remain unchanged – 43.5mm in diameter with a thickness of just 12mm, making it one of the thinnest, most elegant watches with such an unusual regulator. In the new pink gold version, the black guilloche chapter ring is paired with polished pink gold roman numerals and black Breguet-shaped hands, creating a remarkable contrast. But the true brilliance of the watch lies in the ingenious cal. 9462 MC, for which three patents were filed. The secret to the floating, mysterious movement is in the invisible gearing that is hidden behind the chapter ring. The movement is essentially baguette-shaped, with the minute hand fixed to the barrel bridge, and completes a full rotation on the dial in an hour. The central, carrousel tourbillon The basic idea of a tourbillon is to install the escapement in a mechanically driven platform in order to cr...
Hodinkee
The brand's unique contribution is a vintage-influenced, manually wound flyback chronograph that uses a historical column-wheel movement.
Deployant
Panerai’s iconic watch, the Luminor Marina, is now presented in a new version with the P.9010 Manufacture automatic mechanical movement.
SJX Watches
Austrian watchmaker Habring² is well-regarded for its affordable, cleverly engineered watches, particularly the Doppel rattrapante. Now Habring² takes the Doppel a step further: the Perpetual Doppel combines the mono-pusher, split seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar, while still keeping it affordable as such things go. Constructed atop its proprietary A11 movement (itself derived from the robust Valjoux 7750), the Perpetual Doppel is unusual in using a complications module not made by Habring², which typically designs its own complications. Instead, the watch uses the tried and tested perpetual calendar module produced by Dubois-Depraz, a complications specialist that also supplies the module to other makers of affordable perpetual calendars. This makes the Perpetual Doppel the most complicated serially produced Habring² watch, though the brand has produced one-off repeaters and tourbillons in the past. The Perpetual Doppel is generously sized at 43mm in diameter to spread out the calendar displays as much as possible to maximise legibility. But despite the added height of the perpetual calendar, the case manages to stay just 12mm high. Readability is also helped by the red gold-gilded hour numerals and red gold-plated hands that contrast with the brushed, silvered dial. And the chronograph has two central seconds hands for the split-seconds function, along with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock for elapsed minutes. The Habring² c...
Time+Tide
One of the longest and most sustained watch ‘trends’ in recent times is that of vintage and retro styled pieces. In fact, you could argue that it’s now a bona fide category in its own right. And underlying this entire movement is the concept of patina. Sure, retro design plays a part, but the real … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The rise of patina appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A new version of the American brand's famous movement.
Revolution
Swiss watchmaker Zenith continues celebrations of the 50th anniversary of the El Primero movement with the unlimited El Primero A384 Revival.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: To paraphrase Sandra’s excellent review of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph - the brand nailed it. Case, movement, dial and all the details are what we want from a heritage style piece in 2019. Pro – it’s expected to be hitting the market quite soon. Con – it’s limited to 100 pieces globally. When … ContinuedThe post Heritage perfection, the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Franck Muller’s tagline is “the master of complications”, and this watch delivers on that promise in dazzling style. This fully set Franck Muller Double Mystery from their Round collection (which goes to show that there’s more to the brand than Curvex cases) is a great example of working smart. The movement on show is the … ContinuedThe post Doubling down on the rainbow – the Franck Muller Double Mystery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Glashutte PanoInverse is a timepice that changed the way we look at watches, with an ingenious twist on the placement of the movement.
Time+Tide
Increasingly, I’m finding myself drawn to watches that are understated, unassuming expressions of classical perfection. Which goes a long way to explaining why I was so into the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat. This is an exquisitely simple watch. Two hands, no date and a manually wound movement. A pure expression of classical watchmaking if ever … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Timex Easy Reader 35mm Expansion Band Watch does everything it’s supposed to and nothing more: it is a paragon of legibility, an exemplar of wearability, and with its expansion band and quartz movement...
Revolution
AP new Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is a skinnier new form of the hefty iconic timepiece powered by one of AP’s workhorse integrated movements: the caliber 2385.
Deployant
The new Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLNR "Batman" receives an update: a new Jubilee bracelet, and a brand new movement.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
There's a good reason why many police officers, firefighters, EMTs and military personnel trust G-Shock as their everyday watch. It can take an enormous amount of abuse without the fear of damaging the movement or the case.
Deployant
The Cartier Santos sees a major design upgrade with its newly cased line. Notably, the profile of the case, bezel and thickness have become more streamlined. The new case also features a quick release strap design, reminiscent of smart watches -- think Fitbit, Apple Watch. But what really makes this design great again and still a novelty despite its otherwise 'fashionable' status lies in the movement of the new Santos de Cartier Chronograph.
Deployant
We begin with the high complications Histories de Tourbillon 10. This is the Final Edition with a unique four tourbillons each making one revolution every 36 seconds. Three versions. A piece unique in plat and 10 each in WG and RG. Three differentials are used in the movement. Size 54mmx40mm. And a new Project Z,Read More
Deployant
Jaquet Droz starts strong with a new variant to the Grande Seconde collection by adding a chronograph. The movement is supplied by Manufacture Blancpain, and two versions are offered. The chronograph is a monopusher via a coaxial pusher at the crown. Versions are offered: One in a red gold case with the counters aligned, andRead More
Deployant
The second brand we visited is Breguet in Le Brassus. Breguet now comprise of five buildings totaling 21,000 sm about 800 employees. We started at the machining room. Full of multi axis CNC machines making the movement blanks and plates. We next went to the beveling specialist. The raw piece is filed to beveled eachRead More
Deployant
We started at the manufacture which formerly housed the F. Piguet movement manufacture. The Swatch Group does not allow photography inside the manufacture, so no live photographs of the machines. We started at the beginning with the raw materials storage. Brass, maillechort are stored as rolls. Blancpain makes 100% of all components and tools in-house.Read More
Hodinkee
An old-school style watch, a solid movement, and a pleasingly accessible price.
Revolution
ETA’s decision to limit sales of movement blanks outside the Swatch Group spurred the development of in-house movements in the 21st century.
Time+Tide
Sid Mashburn is a veteran menswear designer with an eponymous label. He also has quite nice taste in watches. Mr Mashburn, his clothes and his watches are all on show in this video from US-based retailer Crown & Caliber. I’ve found that there’s usually a degree of overlap in the Venn diagram of clothes guys and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Menswear legend Sid Mashburn explains his watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: It’s one of the most well-loved Japanese watches out there, and a legend in its own right. Only question - what’s cooler, the movement or the dial? You decide. Read on for our review of the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake. Grand Seiko’s famous ‘Snowflake’ has been with us for quite some time now … ContinuedThe post Pure as the driven snow, the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s been an excellent crop of new releases for Grand Seiko, and hiding amidst a healthy assortment of models came this gem - the yellow gold SBGY002. Using a new hand-winding 9R31 Spring Drive movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, the new piece mates a variation of the brand’s iconic Snowflake dial with a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko’s SBGY002, a hot new hand-wound take on the Snowflake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Highlights from Tutima next. And we begin with Patria, a line extension in SS, previously only in RG. Two versions, one as shown in Admiral blue cold enamel dial and a grey dial. Both with in-house hands. Movement is the CT617, 65hr power reserve. Case diameter 43mm. Price € 4,900 incl German VAT. Next aRead More
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Grönefeld introduces a new tourbillon for this year. New caliber for the Grönefeld 10th Anniversary – Decennium. Automatic flying 1 Minute tourbillon in a SS cage. Plat case 39.5mm x 10.5mm height. Slate grey dial in solid silver. LE 10pcs numbered 1 out of 10. Price €145,000 before taxes. Peter Chong Live from Baselworld
Deployant
Three novelties from Arnold & Son this year, one new dial, one new case, and one new movement. We start with the new dial. On HM Perpetual Moon now comes with an aventurine dial. All tech specs remain the same. LE 28 CHF 31,000 before tax. Next a new case for the Nebula. Now withRead More
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