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Sword Hands

Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.

Louis Erard’s Latest Collab is All About Hand-Forged Damascus Steel SJX Watches
Louis Erard s Latest Collab Mar 14, 2025

Louis Erard’s Latest Collab is All About Hand-Forged Damascus Steel

Louis Erard has enjoyed a good run of independent watchmaker collaborations recently, and keeps it up with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x GoS. Following last year’s Vianney Halter edition, the GoS regulator adopts the Swedish watchmaker’s signature material: artisanal Damascus steel forged by the hand of a Swedish swordsmith. The watch retains the usual Louis Erard case and movement, but has a dial of acid-etched Damascus steel hand made by Conny Persson, the knife maker who produces the exotic alloys employed by GoS, which was founded by watchmaker Patrik Sjögren in 2007. Initial thoughts I respect and admire the craft behind GoS watches, which utilise Damascus steel that is sometimes incredibly patterned. But I find the brand’s aesthetic a little too much, especially when the dials are matched with aggressively styled cases. Whereas in the Louis Erard collaboration the heavy patterning of the dial is offset by the clean lines of the no-frills, 39 mm case. More importantly, the GoS regulator is one of the few Louis Erard editions that incorporates an actual example of the collaborator’s craft, as opposed to just being a design exercise. Even though I liked the earlier Vianney Halter and Kudoke editions, they were just watches designed by the respective watchmaker’s input. The GoS regulator, on the other hand, has a dial in an artisanal material – and it remains at the same affordable price as past collabs. Exotic alloy GoS was founded by bladesmith Johan Gu...

Hand Engraved and Unique, the MB&F; LM Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 16, 2024

Hand Engraved and Unique, the MB&F; LM Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet”

MB&F; is well known for its ability to consistently produce timepieces that are as much sculpture as technical marvels. In its latest collaboration, MB&F; leans heavily on the artisanal side of watchmaking, with a dose of literary influence. Executed by the namesake master engraver, the MB&F; Legacy Machine Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” is a limited series of eight unique pieces, each depicting a scene from famous novels, ranging from The Three Musketeers to Moby Dick. Initial thoughts The LM SE “Eddy Jaquet” is arguably a true, multifaceted work of art that just happens to be wearable. Mr Jaquet’s work is amongst the best, and the LM SE happens to be a perfect canvas for it thanks to the particular set up of the dial that leaves practically the entire dial disc free for engraving. Making such an ornate watch usually requires compromise in terms of time telling, with watchmakers often favouring an expansive decorated dial over prominent hands. The LM SE somehow manages to keep all of its sub-dials, along with the LM’s trademark exposed balance. These elements do not take away from the centrepiece, which is the engraved dial plate. The elaborate execution of the LM SE comes at a hefty price, CHF158,000, which is almost double the cost of a standard LM SE. A quiet master engraver While not a widely recognised name, Eddy Jaquet was actually one of the original “friends” of MB&F; since the brand’s early days. Back in 2011, he hand-engraved the names of Kari Vout...

Micro-Brand Digest: Single Hand Watches, Tough Tools, and a New Take on Solar Power Worn & Wound
Feb 16, 2024

Micro-Brand Digest: Single Hand Watches, Tough Tools, and a New Take on Solar Power

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project, you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Canister Fieldmaster The Fieldmaster is Canister’s inaugural wristwatch. Its inspiration comes from a career as an active-duty member of the Canadian Armed Forces, and first-hand knowledge of the consequences when tools and equipment fail. As a result, Canister’s aim is to make rugged and dependable tools built for a purpose. As such, the Fieldmaster has been rigorously tested in Brandon, Manitoba, where extreme winter conditions of minus 40 are common, as are 14-hour workdays.  The Fieldmaster is made of 316L stainless-steel, has a flat sapphire crystal and a ceramic bezel insert. Powering it is the upscale Miyota 9015 automatic movement and the dial numerals and hands are coated with a generous amount of C3 SuperLumninova. The size is 41mm in diameter, 50mm from lug-to-lug, 12mm thick and its lug width is 20mm. It is also water-resistant to 200m. Three dial colors are available (black, blue, and white) and it comes with a stainless-steel bracelet, a ru...

Rashid Tsoroev Introduces the Evo Arrow with a Hand-Hammered Dial SJX Watches
Jan 9, 2024

Rashid Tsoroev Introduces the Evo Arrow with a Hand-Hammered Dial

Based in the southernmost corner of Russia, Rashid Tsoroev is a watchmaker who got his start in 2019 with fairly simple time-only watches powered by the oversized ETA Unitas calibre. Now Mr Tsoroev has upgraded his work, both stylistically and mechanically, with the debut of the Evo Arrow that is priced affordably at US$5,000. Still a three-hand watch but now equipped with a La Joux-Perret (LJP) automatic, the Evo Arrow sports a hand-hammered brass dial – a technique is sometimes described as tremblage – that he makes himself. Mr Tsoroev relies on suppliers for other components like the case, but he finishes all the components in his own workshop. Initial thoughts Like many independent makers in this price segment, Mr Tsoroev outsources several aspects the watch,  but he applies his skill to key aspects, including producing and finishing the dial and hands; this contrasts with brands that merely design and assemble watches. Mr Tsoroev’s attention to detail is admirable, considering the price of the watch. Elements like the font he designed for the watch and the rounded arms of the hands reflect the thought put into the design and execution. Granted, there are constraints imposed by the retail price and presumably Mr Tsoroev’s location (where there are probably no suppliers in a radius of hundreds of kilometres), but the Evo Arrow feels like an honest creation by a craftsman. The only thing I would change is the movement. I would swap the LJP calibre for a Russian ...

Atelier Wen and Revolution Collaborate on a Limited Edition Perception with a Bright Red Dial and Hand Applied Guilloche Pattern Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Apr 18, 2023

Atelier Wen and Revolution Collaborate on a Limited Edition Perception with a Bright Red Dial and Hand Applied Guilloche Pattern

If your particular collecting focus is centered on rising microbrands making affordable integrated bracelet sports watches with dramatic red dials, you have been spoiled for choice recently. It was just yesterday that we brought you news of the Fratello x Straum collaboration, which features a red dial that is literally inspired by volcanic lava, and is about as red as it gets. And today, in what can only be described as a Deep Impact/Armageddon style confluence of good ideas having their moment, we get the new Atelier Wen x Revolution Perception “Xi,” the latest version of the upstart brand’s impressive integrated bracelet sports watch that mixes a familiar platform with traditional Chinese craft techniques.  If you haven’t experienced or heard much about the Perception, be sure to check out our prior coverage, which includes a hands on review by Brad Homes here, and a story about a limited edition made in partnership with Wristcheck here. To cut to the chase, though, we’re pretty big fans of the Perception around here. The integrated bracelet sports watch is very close to being completely played out, but Atelier Wen’s late entry into the genre actually feels fresh, and incorporates a unique design language based on Chinese pagodas, in a package that’s lightweight, wearable, and affordable.  As well executed as the Perception’s case is, it’s always the dials that seem to generate the most interest when a new Perception is launched, and that’s certain...

The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGZ009 Mar 27, 2023

The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail

The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a hand-made Micro Artist Studio creation displaying the ultimate finishing of the manufacture. This unofficial sequel to the SBGZ001 is white-birch driven versus snowflake driven. Will GS collectors feel like the SBGZ009 steps on the toes of SBGZ001 owners?. If you’re just starting your journey into Grand Seiko enthusiasm, … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive Feb 14, 2023

On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers

In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction we take a look at 3 very different, and very exciting watches that aren’t afraid to have a little fun. Lume dials might be a little hit or miss, but when they hit, they really hit. Pair a lume dial with the amazing case of this Citizen Promaster Dive and you fall very much on the ‘hit’ side of that equation. We offer our initial impressions on this unexpectedly awesome diver, as well as a popular new release from Meraud, and a trail watch from up and coming brand Circula. Enjoy the full video below and hit the introductions and first looks at these watches after the break. Check out our hands-on look at the Meraud Antigua right here for more details on that watch, which launched last week. This is one of those rare hand-wound chronographs that walks a fine line between heritage inspiration and funky uniqueness and it works all around. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Lume Dials and Colorful Hand Crankers appeared first on Worn & Wound.

A Week in Watches Ep. 36 - AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Citizen Seiko Feb 12, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 36 - AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph

Welcome to episode 36 of A Week in Watches! We tackle a packed week of news from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Citizen, Seiko, and the return of Meraud with an incredibly charming chronograph called the Antigua. Audemars Piguet dropped plenty of new watches on the world this week, including their most complicated watch ever, the RD4 in the Code 11:59 body. Read more of our thoughts on the new AP releases right here. Seiko revealed a new movement in a trio of new King Seiko references, as well as a special 110th Anniversary King Seiko with a beautiful geometric brown dial. Finally, we discuss a sophomore release from the brand Meraud, who impressed us with their Antigua, a colorful hand wound chronograph with a rather unexpected movement. You can read more of our thoughts on this watch in this hands-on review. Catch all this and more in the full episode below, and be sure to subscribe for more great watch content. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 36 – AP Does All the Complications, Seiko’s New Movement, & A Charming Hand-Wound Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Omega Introduces the Hand-Wind Speedmaster ’57 SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 17, 2022

Omega Introduces the Hand-Wind Speedmaster ’57

A modern take on Omega’s first-ever Speedmaster from 1957, the aptly named Speedmaster ’57 has just been facelifted and upgraded. What was originally a two-counter, automatic chronograph is now a two-counter, manual-wind chronograph. Its aesthetics have been refined, including with a smaller case, coloured dials, and a better bracelet, while the insides have been upgrade with a METAS-certified movement. Initial thoughts While the new Speedmaster ’57 might seem identical to its predecessor that was introduced almost a decade ago, it is entirely different. The latest release retains the same retro style with its “Broad Arrow” hands, straight lugs, and flat-link bracelet, but everything else has been redesigned. Continuing Omega’s stylistic direction for 2022, the new Speedmaster ’57 is offered in bright, metallic-finish dials, including a fashionable olive green. It also encapsulates consumers’ preference for a smaller and thinner case, as well as a quick-adjustment clasp, which will certainly improve wearability. But the biggest surprise comes courtesy of the movement. While the cal. 9300 in the earlier model was automatic, the cal. 9906 in the new model is hand-wind, which results in a slightly thinner case that’s 12.99 mm. With its evocation of vintage chronographs, the hand-wind movement leaves the date feeling somewhat out of place, since it’s a complication traditionally associated with practicality instead of good, old-fashioned aesthetics. At U...

Interview: 800 Years of Japanese Swords and the G-Shock SJX Watches
Casio announced Sep 30, 2019

Interview: 800 Years of Japanese Swords and the G-Shock

Acclaimed in ancient literature and collectible today, swords made by the Gassan school trace their lineage back centuries, as is only possible in Japan. The school originated some 800 years ago, dating back to the early Kamakura period, approximately the 13th century. It started at the base of Mount Gassan, the highest of a trio of sacred mountains in what is now Yamagata prefecture. Though the school became dormant sometime in the 16th century, it was revived sometime in the mid 1800s by a descendant of the Gassan family in Osaka. The revival was successful and the Gassan school made swords for several Japanese emperors in the 19th and 20th century. Six generations on, the Gassans continue their craft with Sadanobu Gassan, and his father, Sadatoshi, now based in the city of Sakurai in Nara prefecture, about six hours southwest of Tokyo. At Baselworld 2019, Casio announced its collaboration with Sadanobu Gassan to create the G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA, which has key parts of the case and bracelet finished by Mr Gassan himself in his workshop. In essence, it links the Gassan family’s eight hundred centuries of tradition with the latest in Japanese timekeeping technology. We got in touch with Mr Gassan to discuss his work for G-Shock, and also the state of his ancient craft. The interview has been edited and condensed. The G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA What made you want to continue in your family’s footsteps? At a young age, I witnessed my...

First Look - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, An Antiqua-Inspired Take on Ultra-Thin (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time 22h ago

First Look - The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, An Antiqua-Inspired Take on Ultra-Thin (Incl. Video)

For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Italian brand Bulgari and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter joined forces to bring us one of the most distinctive interpretations of the Octo Finissimo to date. Seen at a glance, the influence of Halter is unmistakable. The multiple displays, hands, white opaline surfaces and porthole-like bezels recall the legendary Antiqua, developed […]

First Look - The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.4-1 in Black Ceramised Titanium Monochrome
Chopard co-president Karl Friedrich Scheufele Yesterday

First Look - The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.4-1 in Black Ceramised Titanium

Chopard co-president Karl Friedrich Scheufele resurrected the name Ferdinand Berthoud in 2015. An eminent Swiss horologist who emigrated to Paris in 1745 and gained fame for his precision marine chronometers, Ferdinand Berthoud was given a second lease of life in Scheufele’s hands as an elite haute horlogerie brand that perpetuates the founder’s legacy of chronometric […]

Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Yesterday

Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial

I bet that, if given a choice, Murphy Cooper would wear a different watch. In Christopher Nolan’s Interstellar (2014), “Murph” wears a black-dial watch with vintage elements, like cathedral hands, and probably a 42mm case. This gift from her father is pretty similar to the 2019 commercial release. A 38mm watch would fit her wrist […] Visit Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Superlight Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Monochrome
2 days ago

Introducing - The New Superlight Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero

Officially launched just two years ago, Gagà Laboratorio is a spin-off of the longstanding Italian luxury designer watchmaker Gagà Milano. The inaugural Labormatic line encapsulates the brand’s highly creative mechanical personality, underscored by 1950s Italian industrial design codes and powered by Swiss La Joux-Perret movements. Instead of traditional hands, the Labormatic displays the digital hours […]

Fears Celebrates Its (Re-)Birthday With The New Brunswick 39 -  The Brand’s First Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Fears Celebrates 6 days ago

Fears Celebrates Its (Re-)Birthday With The New Brunswick 39 -  The Brand’s First Perpetual Calendar

This year, Fears celebrates 180 years since its founding and 10 years since its revival by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. Over the past decade, the British brand has established an understated and elegant collection, with the Brunswick as its most recognizable reference point. Now, the watch, with its signature cushion-shaped case, onion crown, and pipette hands, gets […] Visit Fears Celebrates Its (Re-)Birthday With The New Brunswick 39 — The Brand’s First Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Jaquet Droz 6 days ago

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know

Probably one of the proudest informal titles I’ve garnered in my nearly 15-year career in the watch industry is “the resident enamel girl.” As a refresher, I fell in love with the artform in a hands-on workshop during a press trip several years ago and have gone on to complete three different apprenticeships in Switzerland studying the craft. I have an immense appreciation not only for the beauty of enamel dials but also the meticulous creative process behind them. Enamel dials were long held in esteem as one of the elements of watchmaking reserved for the elite, much like high complications. It’s no small feat to bring a well-executed enamel dial to life. The materials, tools, machines, and the expert level of training for the craftspeople were once gripped tightly by top brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaquet Droz, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Let me be clear – in practice, brand clout ultimately does not correlate to the best enamel dials. There’s a particular maison not named here (and who I will not call out by name) but who is one of the biggest names in the industry, with every resource at their disposal, and one of their recent and highly popular enamel dials is unbearably mediocre if you give it a look under a loupe. Thankfully, the collector community is starting to come around to this notion that enamel from independent brands can be equally good if not better than the old guard. If you need further proof, here are nine under the...

Introducing: Ming's New 57.05 'Comet' Worldtime Is Out Of This World Innovation Hodinkee
Ming s New 57.05 Comet Aug 26, 2026

Introducing: Ming's New 57.05 'Comet' Worldtime Is Out Of This World Innovation

What We Know It feels like Ming has another hit on its hands here. The new 57.05 "Comet" immediately looked like a cool watch before I even looked at the press release, but once you dig into the specifics, it's pretty impressive, with all the usual Ming flair to boot. That means, yes, there's a pretty cool dial (that has a touch of vintage inspiration). There's an intensely stylized case. There's lume used aplenty (and creatively), and yes, there's innovation in a new patent-pending daylight saving time (DST) world time adjustment system. Let's start from the outside and work our way in. The 316L stainless steel case measures 40mm by 10.3mm with a 47.8mm lug-to-lug. This is a part of Ming's 57 Series design language, so it's got triple-stepped lugs (requiring nine individual components for the lug construction). The next step is the world time bezel. That's where the magic really starts. With a normal 24-hour world time display, you can get by just fine. Yes, not all DST adjustments happen at the same time (if they happen at all), but adjusting for any of them is a problem. Ming has arranged all cities with DST on the outer bezel; non-DST cities are on the inner bezel. You can rotate the outer bezel one click (15º) to move only the DST cities forward by one hour against the 24-hour scale. The bezel will stay fixed in either position, but if you're trying to figure out whether or not DST is engaged or not, you can just look at the small aperture between eight and nine on t...

First Look - The Updated Longines Master Collection now gets Light Blue Dials Monochrome
Longines Master Collection now gets Aug 25, 2026

First Look - The Updated Longines Master Collection now gets Light Blue Dials

The Longines Master Collection is, without a doubt, one of the brand’s most important ranges, with the mission to mix traditional mechanical watchmaking and everyday usability. The brand’s one watch collection, if you will. First presented in 2005, it has been entirely revamped earlier this year with revised cases, new dial patterns, reshaped hands and […]