Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko Is At It Again With A Pair Of Limited Releases To Celebrate The 25th Anniversary Of The Caliber 9S
Dial in the clouds and not a care in the world.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Goes Full Titanium
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional has taken significant strides over the past couple of years in both design and form, while simultaneously offering multidimensional models across the entire collection. Examples include the green dialed titanium diver with the Aquaracer Professional 300, a fully lumed dial with the Aquaracer Professional Night Diver, and the introduction of the Aquaracer Professional 200 line, which packaged their flagship dive watch into a tidy 40mm case and refined some of the design elements in the process. With all of these signs pointing in the right direction for the brand, the table is set for TAG Heuer to continue their momentum in 2023, and boy, do they do so with the release of the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. TAG Heuer takes the Aquaracer Professional 200 further by going lighter with this new iteration of the Solargraph. All of the case components, including the case body, bezel, and caseback, as well as the accompanying bracelet, are built from grade 2 titanium. Unlike the more refined versions of the Aquaracer Professional 200, there isn’t a hint of polish on the case. Instead, every millimeter of the case and bracelet gets a sand blasted finish giving this diver a more resolute and utilitarian aesthetic. Differentiating Lume The bezel maintains the signature twelve-sided shape with each facet housing a set of six bezel teeth. The black numerals and markers are displayed in-relief, once again keeping the same design language wi...
Hodinkee
Reading Time at HSNY: James Arthur, A Pleasing Exception
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber
It’s an often repeated mantra around here: every year is an anniversary year. And if a watch brand is going to be successful in today’s hyper competitive market where, frankly, a lot of brands are offering products that are remarkably similar to one another, they need to differentiate themselves. And looking at a calendar, and figuring out how many years it’s been since “X” accomplishment or “Y” watch was first released is (usually) a decent runway for explaining what makes you special. To that end, Grand Seiko is embarking on what will apparently be a year of celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Caliber 9S, a movement which has become foundational to Grand Seiko in the decades since its debut. The Caliber 9S has become a broad family of movements over the years, as Grand Seiko has continuously refined the caliber, including adding GMT functionality. Grand Seiko has used the 9S movements as a platform for their MEMS engineering techniques, which allow for insanely tight tolerances in movement making for certain key components, and you could probably argue that 9S movements represent the most traditional watchmaking currently practiced by the brand. Today, 9S movements are universally known to be reliable and rock solid high frequency calibers that often perform even better than the specs would indicate. Most recently, the 9S served as the springboard for the creation of Grand Seiko’s next generation Hi-Beat movement, the 9SA5. While it might not be t...
Time+Tide
LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop
LVMH Watch Week is back, and Zenith is bringing out the big guns to kick off 2023. And one of the biggest and boldest has to be the new limited-to-50 Defy Extreme Glacier chrono, a technological tour-de-force in a striking package that incorporates a unique material. The 45mm titanium case still retains the angular, architectural … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial
Yesterday, Blake took you through all the details of Hublot’s latest reinterpretation of their Classic Fusion with the updated Classic Fusion Original. For the Hublot historians out there (are you out there?), this was surely a welcome sight, as it calls back to the earliest days of the brand when a luxury watch on a rubber strap was a truly transgressive idea. We’ve come a long way since then, and so has Hublot. The brand has had ups and downs with the watch community (to the say the least), but in recent years they’ve leaned into experimentation with materials (especially colored ceramics and sapphire) that have gotten the attention of open minded and adventurous collectors and enthusiasts, while making watches like the Classic Fusion Original feel almost sleepy by comparison (sorry, Classic Fusion Original). Hublot’s latest envelope pushing novelties are insane in the way only modern Hublot can pull off, and while they likely won’t find a home in the watch box of any Worn & Wound staffers anytime soon, they’re too crazy not to share. First up, a watch in the same vein as my beloved Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This tennis ball colored, translucent tourbillon uses the same HUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement as the purple version released last year, and fills out the same enormous 44mm Big Bang form factor, but uses a slightly different synthetic sapphire material in the case construct...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm
In 1971, Zenith introduced the Defy, a steel sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel that was the inspiration for the Defy Skyline, a simple three-hander in steel with an integrated bracelet. Today, the brand has updated the Skyline with a smaller case of 36 mm and three new dial colours. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Skyline makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The highlight of the Defy Skyline is its compact, 36 mm size. For someone like me who leans towards classic proportions and prefers smaller watches, the size is a plus while also making it more wearable. Along with the size, the clean, simple design is also versatile enough for both genders. And the option of a diamond-set model and bright dial colours certainly elevate its appeal for a wider audience. At US$8,500 for the standard model and 50% more for the diamond-set variant, it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. And while it might not have all the bells and whistles of some of Zenith’s signature chronograph offerings, it’s easy to like for someone looking for a straightforward sports watch with an in-house movement. More colours and a compact size While the original Defy Skyline was 41 mm, the new version is considerably smaller. In spite of its reduced size, the case still retains the distinctive octagonal form with a brushed finish and matching bracelet. But it is equipped with a strap-change mechan...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”
Jack Heuer introduced the Carrera in 1963 as a chronograph for race-car drivers. No frills yet stylish design, the Carrera was perfect blend of form and function. Sixty years on TAG Heuer is celebrating its signature chronograph with a faithful revival, the Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”, the first in a series of commemorative models that will be launched over the year – but it will be the only vintage remake amongst the commemorative editions. Presented in the modern-day Carrera case of 39 mm, it is a near-identical replica of the classic Carrera ref. 2447 SN with its distinctive “panda” dial. While it incorporates the key elements of the original, the brand has updated the watch with its in-house automatic movement and of course scaled up the design to match. Initial thoughts I was struck by its understated styling of the Carrera Chronograph “60th Anniversary”. It’s a remake that doesn’t try to do too much but performs well. The original was clearly a functional sports chronograph but still elegant, something that this remake inherits. And the simplicity of the original ensures that it doesn’t look dated. Admittedly, this is not exactly novel since TAG Heuer already released the remake of the ref. 2447S with an all-silver dial in 2020. But the “panda” dial is undoubtedly more appealing. It’s perfect homage to the 1960s and the brand’s history in motor racing. The dial gets the details right, including the “Heuer” logo, brushed ...
Deployant
New with hands-on: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary Edition
We had a hands-on session with the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary Edition, and here are out thoughts.
Revolution
First Look: BVLGARI at LVMH Watch Week 2023 with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani
We kick off 2023 with the first fair of the year, LVMH Watch Week, with its fourth edition being held in Singapore at the luxurious and scenic Capella Hotel. Wei speaks to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, BVLGARI’s Product Creation Executive Director about the new Divas’ Dream floral collection and the Serpenti Tubogas Infinity. Stigliani details the […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Zenith Debuts The New Defy Skyline Skeleton
The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton announced at LVMH Watch Week 2023. Read for specs, photos, and an analysis from Two Broke Watch Snobs.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Bell & Ross Made A Watch With Alain Silberstein, Master Of The Squiggle
These three watches are a 42mm primary color themed party for your wrist.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon In Un-Mellow Yellow
It's made out of something called SAXEM. And it's as delicious-looking as a lemon drop.
Revolution
First Look: BVLGARI at LVMH Watch Week 2023 with Antoine Pin
We kick off 2023 with the first fair of the year, LVMH Watch Week, its fourth edition being held in Singapore at the luxurious and scenic Capella Hotel. Wei visits the BVLGARI villa and speaks to Antoine Pin, Managing Director of the luxury giant’s watch division, to take a first look at this year’s novelties. […]
Revolution
First Look: Zenith at LVMH Watch Week 2023 with Julien Tornare
We kick off 2023 with the first fair of the year, LVMH Watch Week, its fourth edition being held in Singapore at the luxurious and scenic Capella Hotel. Wei visits the Zenith villa and speaks to CEO Julien Tornare, to take a first look at the new novelties for the Defy Skyline Collection, the brand’s […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Takes Us From Glaciers To Skyline With Two New Defy Releases
A favorite model gets a little smaller and another gets an icy new look.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Would You Like Some Gems With Your Gems? Bulgari Overdoes It, But Exactly Right.
It's raining diamonds and sapphires and rubies and peridots and tanzanites and citrines...
Deployant
New with hands-on: Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton
Kicking off LVMH Watch week, we get some hands-on time to get up close and personal with the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton.
Deployant
New: Parmigiani Tonda PF Xiali Calendar
Parmigiani releases a new watch with a traditional Chinese Calendar and precison moon phase indication - the Tonda PF Xiali Calendar.
Time+Tide
Ruminations on my Rolex GMT journey that took me from Batman to Root Beer with a few diversions along the way
Back in 2014, I wrote my first article for Time & Tide. It was a review of the Rolex GMT Master II, reference 116710BLNR which unfortunately came to be well known as the “Batman GMT”. This nickname is all well and good, except I don’t like Batman. You’d be forgiven for wondering why anyone named … ContinuedThe post Ruminations on my Rolex GMT journey that took me from Batman to Root Beer with a few diversions along the way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk JPS
De Bethune expands their DB 27 Titan Hawk lineup with a new watch influenced by motorsports, and the Lotus F1 team's John Player Special colourway.
Quill & Pad
Bolivar Gigantes: Fantastic Cuban Cigars: Unfortunately, they are also Hard to Find
Bolivar, Gigantes cigars might be strong and powerful, but they always seem balanced. Sadly, this will be an experience that becomes rarer and rarer in the coming years as they have been discontinued and are harder to find. Ken Gargett highly recommends that If you ever come across any, grab them fast!
Time+Tide
Which watch brand won 2022? Ricardo picks Vacheron Constantin – here’s why…
Editor’s note: During one of our final editorial meetings of the year, the question was posed: which watch brand won 2022? This then raises the question of what it means to win. Is it total revenue? Likes on social media? Page views on our site? The number of watch spots in the wild? There is … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Ricardo picks Vacheron Constantin – here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-94 KRONO 22
The Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-94 KRONO 22 is the chronograph model of the Grail Watch 4 Trilogy. Housed in a 42 x 42mm matte black ceramic case with a multi-colored palette for the pushers, crown and hands, it is the most maximalist expression of Bell & Ross and Alain Silberstein’s design […]
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 MARINE 22
The Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 MARINE 22 is the dive model of the Grail Watch 4 Trilogy. Housed in a 42 x 42mm matte black ceramic case depth rated to 300m with a bi-colored ceramic bezel and dual guard pieces for the crown, it is the toughest configuration of Bell & […]
Quill & Pad
Azimuth Mr. Roboto Bronzo Artist Series
There exists a droll class of watch for which telling time takes a back seat to the packaging itself. And the Azimuth Mr. Roboto Bronzo Artist Series is a great example of this class, Tim Mosso explains why.
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 KLUB 22
The Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 KLUB 22 is the time-only model of the Grail Watch 4 Trilogy. Housed in a 42 x 42mm matte black ceramic case with a pared down ampersand logo and only three hands, it is the most distilled expression of Bell & Ross and Alain Silberstein’s design […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Blancpain Kicks Off 70th Anniversary Celebration With A Limited Edition Fifty Fathoms
And a new (42mm) case, too.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”
Arguably the most significant Audemars Piguet timepiece ever, the Royal Oak celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with a host of new models, including the all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and even a skeletonised, selfwinding flying tourbillon. And just before entering the New Year, Audemars Piguet (AP) dropped the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”. Essentially identical to the standard model, the new version – which is available in either white or pink gold – is distinguished by its surface finishing: dimples on the dial and frosting on the bezel. Limited to 33 pieces each, the pair are primarily for Japan, with only a handful of watches available outside the country. According to our sources, the unusual combination of finishes were proposed by Japanese watch influencer Chronopeace, explaining why most of the run will be sold only in Japan – though this has neither been confirmed nor denied by AP. Initial thoughts I first heard about this discreet release when images were shared with me. As AP occasionally won’t say what drops, the watch was not announced officially, but instead quietly added to its online catalogue, perhaps because it is only available in Japan. Despite being low key, this new release will surely appeal to anyone who likes the Royal Oak but wants the added oomph of a special dial. At a glance, the watch easily reveals itself to be stunning. The layout and style are familiar, but the few tweaks to the dial an...
SJX Watches
Franck Muller Introduces #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard
Franck Muller pushed the boundaries of the possible in high-end watchmaking in its earlier years, particularly with its whimsical complications like the Crazy Hours. Now, the brand has gone in the direction of edgy and provocative with its collaboration with Tokyo streetwear brand #FR2. Bearing the clothing label’s emblem of two naughty rabbits, the #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard is a limited edition available only in Southeast Asia and Australia. Initial thoughts When I first saw the #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard, I was conflicted about the aesthetics. This type of pop-culture collaboration has been done before and often. Various watch brands have tied up with well-known streetwear labels. And Franck Muller itself recently launched a Vanguard customised by Bamford Watch Department to feature Popeye on the dial. But upon closer examination, the #FR2NCK MULLER feels like a more interesting collaboration because of the striking black-and-white livery – and the irreverent logo on the dial. The rabbit emblem is fairly discrete at a distance, making it something of a in-joke. Beyond the design, the case is notable for being a composite of carbon fibre and glass, which gives the material a banded pattern that is slightly glossy. The composite case perfectly complements the black-and-white palette of the watch. And inside the composite case is an in-house automatic movement, making it slightly more interesting than the Franck Muller watches powered by stock third-party movements. As i...