Hodinkee
Introducing: Seiko Is Back In Black With Three Classic Releases
Three of the brand's most tried-and-true references get a blacked-out treatment.
Results for Watches and Wonders Geneva
34,724 articles · 4,135 videos found · page 1078 of 1296
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: Do You Really Need A Dive Watch? The Easy-Wearing Omega Aqua Terra Doesn’t Think So.
Omega's everyday steel sports watch is casual enough for the pool party and dressy enough for the office.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Re-Creations Of The First Grand Seiko For The 60th Anniversary Of Grand Seiko, SBGW259, SBGW258, SBGW257
Three new watches that celebrate the austere beauty of the originals from 1960, now in regular production models.
Worn & Wound
The Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks it into Sport Mode
The Timex Marlin at its core, is a dress watch. I’m referring to the first Marlin that comes to mind when you think of this particular model. You know, the one with the 34mm case, hour numerals using a vintage typeface, and an accompanying faux-gator leather strap. Believe it or not, this style of watch was normally worn during any activity back in its day. From working at the office, right into doing household chores during the weekend. Think Don Draper wearing a similarly styled watch while cutting the lawn. Sure we could do the same, but nowadays there’s just way too many good steel sports watches out there for them to just sit on the sidelines while they watch their dressier watchbox mate get all the wrist time. Timex’s latest iteration of their flagship dress watch aims to fill that void in their current Marlin collection by becoming a bit more sportier via a new-look dial. One look at the Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial could have you mistaken for a refined version of your quintessential Timex field watch, but it is in fact a Marlin. The main reason here is the new set of numerals used to demarcate the hours. The collection of numerals are more sizable, much bolder, and a new typeface all together. The font leans into Sans Serif territory and as a result, the numerals look friendlier and playful, while also being more legible at the same time. The natural boldness of this new typeface accentuates the curves of each numeral, especially the unique looking flat top “4...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet in steel is winning over doubters of the collection
The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet has been a hot subject of debate since its debut in 2019. It’s fair to say, as historically happened with other references of theirs like the Royal Oak, the collection was not immediately accepted with unanimous approval by watch enthusiasts. With great anticipation built around the release, and an … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet in steel is winning over doubters of the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Nomos Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold
Nomos extends their classical dress watch lineup - the Tangente with a new Neomatic in Blue Gold. Available in two sizes of 35mm and 39mm.
SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch
Jacob & Co. already has a roulette complication in its catalogue inside the Astronomia Casino, a variant of its signature watch. Now the jeweller has condensed the concept into the Casino Tourbillon, which does away with the orbital carousel to focus on the roulette automaton, although it still conceals a flying tourbillon on the back. Initial thoughts The Casino Tourbillon is very much a Jacob & Co. watch with its exuberant style and complication – but it is slightly more restrained in design than the brand’s usual offerings. While it’s far from a low-key watch with its 44 mm diameter and over-16mm height, it is modest for a Jacob & Co. watch. The roulette complication is interesting and smartly executed, though not exactly new. It is essentially a more sophisticated version of the Franck Muller Las Vegas, which instead relied on a simple execution made up of a fixed wheelhead and freely-spinning pointer hand. Priced at US$280,000, the Casino Tourbillon is pricey. Although the dial construction is complex, the roulette automaton is relatively straightforward, as is the flying tourbillon. It is, however, unique in today’s market. While casino-inspired complications were once popular (after the Franck Muller Las Vegas became a bestseller), they are uncommon today. So for the high roller who wants a novel casino-themed complication, this is probably it. Game of chance While Jacob & Co.’s watches are usually over the top, the Casino Tourbillon is relatively clean...
Worn & Wound
IWC’s Portofino Collection Gets a New Complete Calendar to Complement Last Year’s Perpetual
Toward the tail end of 2022, IWC quietly introduced a new Portofino perpetual calendar (in gold and stainless steel) and it immediately caught our attention. I mean, it’s kind of an objectively beautiful watch, with an elegantly executed complication that we’re all quite fond of, and the fact IWC is making them in steel is really just icing on the perpetual calendar cake. Still, at $24,000, the steel version isn’t exactly anyone’s definition of affordable, even if we’re using imaginary money. So we were even more surprised to learn that IWC has once again sprung a very attractive calendar watch on us in a non-precious metal, still in the Portofino collection but with a different calendar complication. The new Portofino Complete Calendar shares an aesthetic with its perpetual big brother, but is less than half the price. It requires more adjustment from the user, but it’s still a classic calendar with a ton of charm. First things first, the Portofino seems to be hitting a newfound stride with these calendar watches. This has always been a solid IWC collection, if a little under the radar compared to the brand’s sportier offerings. But the Portofino speaks to the broad range of styles that IWC excels in. These are traditional dress watches, which are now increasingly outfitted with traditional complications based around IWC’s solid and reliable watchmaking. In terms of aesthetics, you’d be hard pressed to identify a distinguishing feature in these watches...
Deployant
New: Tissot PRX line extension
Tissot extends their very popular and commercially successful PRX lineup with new colours, new model - quartz, automatic and automatic chronograph.
Worn & Wound
Say Hello to the Highly Capable Nodus Sector Deep
Nodus started teasing out the continuation of their Sector Series early last month. With some early indications as to what we were in store for – a dual bezel display, southpaw crown stance, and a dial reading “500” potentially alluding to the water resistance rating. I assumed the latter would hold true given the appropriate name of Nodus’ latest release: the Sector Deep. The Sector Deep heavily concentrates on the keystone features in what constitutes as a legitimate dive watch. I’m talking about outstanding legibility, a case intentionally designed for comfort, and seamless functionality. We’ve seen dive watches before from the determined brand based out of California, but nothing like the Sector Deep. It’s completely novel, and their most, dare I say, professional watch to date. The Nodus Sector Deep is capable of going where its name says it can go – deep below the ocean’s surface. More specifically, 500 meters. That’s 1,640 feet for those who need the conversion and for additional perspective, that’s proximal to the height of New York City’s Freedom Tower underwater and right in the thick of the ocean’s water column. Now I know most of us won’t even come close to using up a fraction of that depth rating. Actually, I think I could speak for most of our readership (barring any certified SCUBA divers out there) when I say that we’re pretty much only concerned with the first few meters below the surface, but it’s amusing to know that the w...
Worn & Wound
Airain Updates their Type 20 in a Stealthy Gray Limited Edition
Airain, the heritage watch brand that made a triumphant return in 2020 with their Type 20 reissue, is back with a new spin on the popular (and historic) chronograph that gives it a sleek and under the radar look. Airain, you might remember, is one of the original French manufacturers of the Type 20 chronograph, the military aviator’s watch issued to French pilots in the 1950s and 60s. Several watchmakers were contracted by the French Ministry of Defense to produce the watches to spec, including Mathey Tissot, Dodane, and, most famously, Breguet. Vintage examples of the Type 20 are highly collectible, and Breguet of course still produces a variety of excellent chronographs under the moniker. Brands like Hemel and Massena LAB have also gotten in on the Type 20 action recently, which might harken a boom in interest in these very specific chronographs. The specificity, I think, is part of the charm. Like other watches built for military purposes, the Type 20 was made to a certain standard, with certain key features, regardless of the manufacturer that actually produced it. In the case of the Type 20, those requirements included a black dial with registers at 3:00 and 6:00, giving the wearer the ability to time events up to 30 minutes in duration, along with a 38mm case diameter, a rotating 12 hour bezel, lumed hands and Arabic numerals, and accuracy to within 8 seconds per day. The other key feature was that the chronograph needed to have flyback functionality, a requireme...
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms “Tech Gombessa”
Blancpain kicked off the new year with the first of several editions to mark the 70th anniversary of its landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. While the first anniversary watch was essentially a no-frills, vintage-inspired diver, the next one is the opposite. With a diameter of 47 mm, the Fifty Fathoms “Tech Gombessa” is one of the largest watches ever made by Blancpain. While it still bears some resemblance to its brethren in the Fifty Fathoms line, it is distinct in terms of design (and size). And it also features a complication that’s new for the brand: a three-hour hand and corresponding elapsed-time bezel for extended-duration dives. In fact, the Tech Gombessa is the first in the new Tech Gombessa line of dive watches for professionals. Initial thoughts I expected a reissue of the original Fifty Fathoms for its 70th anniversary (as I’m sure did everyone else), so the first edition wasn’t a surprise. I had also hoped for something more modern, which is somewhat of an understatement for the “Act 2” of the anniversary line-up. The Tech Gombessa’s design is clearly inspired by the original, but with lots of updates, for better or worse. While the elapsed-time bezel is fairly conventional ceramic insert, the dial is big, bold, and orange, though the mixture of modern orange typography with the vintage-style logos and lettering feels conflicted. The case is oversized with no lugs, instead the case goes directly into the case, which should help with erg...
Time+Tide
The history of Landeron, the legendary manufacturer that never gets the recognition it deserves
Landeron deserves more than one moment in the spotlight.The post The history of Landeron, the legendary manufacturer that never gets the recognition it deserves appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: H.Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar dressed in Tantalum Armour
The H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Armour is an exceptional timepiece that combines sophisticated design, intricate mechanics, and the unique properties of tantalum. This watch offers not only accurate timekeeping but also the ability to display the date and month with perpetual accuracy, making it a highly sought-after watch among collectors.
Revolution
The True Story Behind the 40mm De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar That Became Grail Watch 6
In 2022, when De Bethune relaunched their incredible DB25 Perpetual Calendar in an all-new case size of 40mm, collectors sat up and took notice as it made an already thoughtfully-designed grand complication watch even more well-proportioned for the wrist. Wei and Jeremiah discuss the genesis of this sea change in the DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s case […]
WatchAdvice
The Owner’s Perspective: Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300m
There are several watches that most watch enthusiasts should own in their collection at one time. The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver is one of those watches. If it’s good enough for James Bond, then it’s good enough for me! This isn’t the first time that I’ve owned a Seamaster. I had a 2005 quartz version almost 20 years ago. At that point I’d only owned a Tissot PRS 200 as a “good” Swiss watch. As a fan of James Bond, (and what young male isn’t?), I always wanted his watch. I mean how cool was the wave dial, the deep blue bezel and at the time, that unmistakable bracelet. It looked great in the office and on weekends at the beach. I loved it. Financial issues meant I had to sell it about 7 months after buying it, and that hurt. About 15 years and many watches later, I decided it was time to purchase another, this time the latest iteration of the SMP 300. I chose the black polished ceramic dial with the laser etched waves, date at 6 O’clock, glossy, almost silky polished ceramic bezel with white inset dive indicators. And this time, on the steel and opting to add the rubber strap too. Very versatile and with the steel bracelet and rubber strap, two very different looks for different occasions. Just a casual low light shot In 2018, Omega launched their updated version of the classic Bond watch. This time in a 42 mm case, making it a little bigger and bolder, and after a slight hiatus, bringing back the wave pattern on the dial. The new wave pattern is ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Love At First Sight with the Lorca Model No.1 GMT
As a self-proclaimed watch guy, I’ve developed a natural habit for watch spotting in the wild. It doesn’t matter if I’m in the midst of a routine trip to my local cafe or seated in my designated row as I observe the rest of the passengers board the plane. It’s also not limited to being out and about, as I’ve been known in my household to occasionally pause a movie if I spot something interesting on a character’s wrist. Needless to say, my watch-radar is always on. There are a few things that actually set this “radar” off. But for the most part, it’s design recognition. You know what you’re looking at, even when you just catch a glimpse of the watch from across the room. All the classic models and references have this going for them. A couple months back however, I must admit, I was stumped. A gentleman strolled into our Worn & Wound office and was looking to chat with someone from our editorial team. He walked into our headquarters, so surely he should have a watch on, right? So mid-conversation, I glanced over when the opportunity presented itself, and just visible outside of a denim shirt cuff, layered with a stone gray tweed overcoat, was a watch that I thought I recognized.But the more I looked, the more I got confused … and intrigued. “Definitely vintage,” I thought. But was it an IWC? A Universal Geneve? It was none of the above – it was actually something totally new. Turns out the gentleman visiting that day was Jesse Marchant, a New Yor...
Deployant
New: Sinn T50 lineup
Sinn presents a new diver watch lineup - the T50 with 3 new references, with 2 featuring a new bronze and the third in titanium.
SJX Watches
Hands On: The Cartier Tank Francaise
Last month, Cartier relaunched the Tank Francaise, a bestseller in the 1990s and early 2000s and also the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet. Retaining the design elements of the 1996 original, the new Tank Francaise nonetheless sports a sleeker form and a more modern appearance overall. In many ways it’s not merely a remake but an entirely new watch. Initial thoughts When Cartier revealed the revamped Tank Francaise 27 years after the original, I was sceptical for several reasons. One because the original isn’t yet vintage enough to be a classic, but it is old enough that it might be stale. Another is the fact that it has been around for so long – the heyday of the original was the late 1990s but it remained in the catalogue until recently – the design feels too familiar. So I naturally wondered if the brand would do it justice to the model in redesigning it. After checking out the new Tank Francaise, I can certainly say it is well done and just right (apart from a few minor shortcomings in execution, like the date on the large model). The large model in steel The new Tank Francaise retains the style of the original, so it still has a bit of retro, 1990s style but not too much so it manages to look current. It still has the look of the original, with a similar outline and profile, but now with cleaner lines and neater details like a recessed crown. Other details like the brushed finish and sticker-appliqué numerals on the dials adds texture and visu...
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 6: De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar “Rhapsody in Blue”
Grail Watch is proud to present Grail Watch 6, a dream collaboration of magnificent proportions! We are extremely privileged to partner with independent watchmaker De Bethune to create a deep blue-dialled version of their gorgeous DB25 Perpetual Calendar in a reduced case size of 40mm, first introduced at Geneva Watch Days 2022. Our version is […]
Worn & Wound
Brand Video Spotlight: A Heritage of Artistry in Design – The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series
Getting to know Seiko’s Presage Sharp Edged Series Seiko’s carefully crafted Presage collection reflects Seiko’s deep heritage of artistry in design and timekeeping. Timepieces that earn the Presage moniker capture the essence of both classic and contemporary Japanese style. The newest Presage designs from the Sharp Edged Series, convey the cool angularity of today’s Japanese aesthetic. The dial incorporates a Japanese “Asanoha” or hemp leaf pattern, prevalent in Japanese culture for its use in design and a symbol of growth and prosperity. The rich texture of the dial and the angular geometric pattern create a color gradation as it plays with light at every angle. Click here to view on YouTube. Learn more about the Seiko Presage Collection The post Brand Video Spotlight: A Heritage of Artistry in Design – The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
H. Moser Debuts the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, their First Watch in the Exotic Metal
Moser’s latest is the brand’s first ever release in tantalum, a rarely used metal with unique characteristics that make it one of the more rewarding metals in all of watchmaking. In other words, it has a beautiful aesthetic impact, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge to get it to that point. Using it at all is something of a flex for any brand, and Moser is throwing down the gauntlet to a certain extent with this release. Somewhat predictably, they’ve incorporated what has come to be the brand’s signature complication, a unique and easy to read perpetual calendar, into their first tantalum watch, all with an elaborate enamel dial with a distinct hammered texture. The clear highlight of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel is the use of tantalum, so we’ll start there. Tantalum is extremely dense and strong, qualities which make it an excellent candidate as a case metal for a luxury watch. It’s also very corrosion resistant, and develops a very thin layer of oxidation when exposed to air that naturally protects it. Tantalum also has a gray-blue tone to it that is quite unlike any other metal, giving it a unique quality that no other metal can match. The reason tantalum is so uncommon in watchmaking is because it is very difficult to machine thanks to a melting point that comes in around 3000 °C. It takes advanced technology and equipment to properly fabricate tantalum for watchmaking purposes, which of course requires not only a substa...
Time+Tide
A Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 became my milestone watch to celebrate taking charge of my mental health
Editor’s note: The below story is a submission by Time+Tide reader Chris Antzoulis, who was moved to write it after listening to the Milestone Watches episode on About Effing Time. Here, he shares the story of what he has dubbed his “mental milestone watch”. Ever since I was a kid I loved watches - my … ContinuedThe post A Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 became my milestone watch to celebrate taking charge of my mental health appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar: The Casual Polo Sports Watch Finally Goes Upmarket
The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar is a welcome addition to the collection. It is one of those very wearable perpetual calendars, ready to put a smile on the face of its owner every time he or she looks at it, and in martin Green's opinion, that's a quality every Piaget should possess.
Revolution
Grand Seiko opens its first boutique in Singapore, in glitzy Marina Bay Sands
For a deep dive into Grand Seiko’s evolution and philosophy, click here.
Hodinkee
Reading Time At HSNY: Hands Of The Clock, Hands In The Book
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Hodinkee
Four + One: It's All About The Indies for Christopher Daaboul
The owner of retailer EsperLuxe loves the stories just as much as the watches themselves.
Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK Celebrates the 30th Anniversary of the Frogman with a Limited Edition Inspired by a Colorful (but Poisonous) Frog
I’ve long held that you can tell an awful lot about a person by their taste in G-SHOCKs. By now, there are so many types of these watches out there, it’s not hard to get a sense of what kind of message a watch collector is trying to send out into the world about themselves through their choice in G-SHOCK. The hardcore collector types will naturally want to flex the limited or hard to find collabs. Your Rick and Morty and Budweiser editions, for example. I get the sense that people who are most likely to actually use their G-SHOCKs for their intended purpose are drawn toward simple, blacked out, “tacti-cool” watches that don’t draw too much attention. These are the simple, traditional G-SHOCKs being worn as nature intended, by the professionals who put themselves in dangerous situations for a living, or klutzes who know for a fact that their watch is going to become intimately familiar with every door jamb it approaches. And then there are people like me. We’re dabblers, interested in G-SHOCK but not obsessive, who are mostly drawn to aggressively colorful designs like the new GWFA1000APF1 seen here, made for the 30th anniversary of the Frogman. The Frogman watches, if you need a quick refresher, are G-SHOCKs made with diving and water adventures in mind. While all G-SHOCK watches have ample water resistance, the Frogman series features analog time telling via large, dive watch style hands, and a dual coil motor system designed to quickly move those hands as y...
SJX Watches
Insight: Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement, an Evolution of the Fasoldt Chronometer
In the quest for precision chronometry in a mechanical watch, perhaps no other component is as crucial as the escapement – often consisting of an escape wheel and lever that engage with the oscillating organ. The history of watchmaking recounts many an attempt at inventing a better-performing escapement, with some attempts naturally more successful than others. By the 20th century, the watch industry had settled upon the Swiss lever escapement, which has proven itself to be a reasonably solid performer and crucially, one fit for mass production. However, in the latter decades of the century, one English watchmaker attempted to challenge the industry status quo. In 1974, George Daniels invented the “co-axial escapement”, a seemingly novel and practical escapement of his own design that was conceived as an functionally superior alternative to the Swiss lever escapement. Daniels’ invention fulfilled his ambition, at least in part, when it was sold to Omega and then successfully industrialised starting in 1999; today it is found in hundreds of thousands of movements that Omega produces each year. The latest iteration of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is kitted out with the co-axial escapement With the merits of the co-axial escapement having been proven in part by its large-scale adoption, my aim here is not to examine its intrinsic qualities, but rather delve into its development. Specifically I will explore the fact that the co-axial escapement might not be an ent...
Deployant
New: Arnold & Son Globetrotter Platinum
Arnold & Son adds a platinum case edition to their Globetrotter collection. Details from the Press Release and commentary in italics.