Results for ETA 2892-A2

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Bovet Jun 12, 2021

Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible

A couple of weeks ago, Rolls Royce announced a $37m four-seat convertible that would be almost entirely bespoke. Known as the Boat Tail, the car was said to have been dreamed up by one of Rolls Royce’s most important clients who was excited by the possibility of commissioning something truly magnificent with the manufacturer. The … ContinuedThe post Rolls Royce and Bovet team up on luxury dashboard detailing for $37m convertible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bell & Ross Unveils Jun 9, 2021

Bell & Ross Unveils the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic

First introduced exactly a decade ago, the BR 01-92 Red Radar was one of the brand’s first wristwatches to reproduce a fighter jet’s instrument display, using a red-tinted sapphire crystal and rotating discs to create a dial resembling a flight radar display. A striking and clever idea, the flight-radar time display was unique even amongst the numerous aviation-instrument watches of Bell & Ross (B&R;). Now B&R; is revisiting the concept with the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic, which once again features a radar display but now in the more wearable BR 03 case. Initial thoughts On the surface, the new BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic isn’t especially novel. The ceramic case is essentially the same used for last year’s BR 03-92 HUD, while the radar display is modelled on the 2011 original. However, the new Red Radar is a clever rendition of the idea, and a substantial improvement over the earlier version. For one, the case is now 42 mm, making it significantly more wearable than the 46 mm original. And the original also had a black-coated steel case – which typically shows wear and tear as the coating separates from the metal below – while the new model has a ceramic case also that’s scratch-resistant and generally more durable, meaning it will seem pristine even after years of use (though hard knocks or drops can chip or crack ceramic). And the new Red Radar has a more practical dial design than its predecessor, which had hands printed to mimic the sweep of a radar scan, ...

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Jun 9, 2021

Svend Andersen Marks 40 Years with the Jumping Hours Platinum

Andersen Genève turned 40 in 2020 – making the brand one of the longest-established independent watchmakers in Switzerland. The brand is, in fact, a pioneer in the field. Founder Svend Andersen, an octogenarian who was born in Denmark but moved to Switzerland in 1963, set up the AHCI in 1985 alongside Vincent Calabrese. Andersen Genève is best known for inventive and novel complications, often built as a module to be added onto a base movement, such as the secular perpetual calendar that needs no adjustment even after centuries – but on an ETA base calibre. Many of the brand’s creations are hand-made, bespoke timepieces built to the client’s specifications. The brand commemorated its 40th anniversary with four models that encapsulate its historical specialties, a diamond-set, Louis Cattier-style world time, a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin that combines the Russian watchmaker’s Joker display with an automaton on the back, and a jumping hours. The final watch in the anniversary quartet is the first in platinum, the Jumping Hours 40th Anniversary with a 21k-gold dial engine turned by hand. Initial thoughts The Jumping Hours is charming in both design and construction, but for the fact that it is the brainchild of a pioneer independent watchmaker. Save for the case material, the new Jumping Hours is identical to its rose gold predecessor, so it’s not particularly novel. But the guilloche blue dial works exceptionally well with the white-metal case, mak...

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Louis Erard Introduces Jun 8, 2021

Louis Erard Introduces the Alain Silberstein Le Triptyque

Having debuted the first Alain Silberstein collaboration two years ago, Louis Erard is now back with a trio of watches conceived by the designer known for his Bauhaus-inspired, offbeat style – the Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. Featuring a titanium case with unusual fixed lugs that form a frame, the watches are rendered in Mr Silberstein’s recognisable style made up of geometric shapes and primary colours. The three are essentially Mr Silberstein’s interpretation of the traditionally-styled Excellence Triptych that Louis Erard debuted last year. Available individually or in a box set accompanied by a Silberstein NFT artwork, the watches are priced affordably, starting at CHF3,500 for the time-and-date and rising to just CHF4,500 for the single-button chronograph. Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein II Initial thoughts The Alain Silberstein triptych is easy to like. The watches have a distinctive, cheery style while being accessible in price. They are simple in construction and finish – the movements, for instance, are reliable but not much to look at – but appropriate for the price and still good value. Although the design is entirely new, the case retains the character of Alain Silberstein’s original timepieces, as do the dials. That said, the shape of the hands doesn’t help legibility so it takes a while to read the time. And although La Semaine is the base model in the line up, it has the bonus feature of Mr Silberstein’s amusi...

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Citizen Introduces Jun 5, 2021

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m

Usually associated with solar-powered, high-spec professional diver’s watches, Citizen has just launched something unusual. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a higher-end dive watch powered by the automatic cal. 9051 and a case made of its proprietary, hardened titanium. Initial thoughts The new Promaster is a huge – it’s 46 mm wide – with an aggressively, slightly over-the-top-design. And for that reason it’s cool; the style and size will surely appeal to anyone who likes large dive watches. Importantly, the Promaster Mechanical Diver is automatic, which gives it a greater technical appeal for the watch enthusiast. Citizen’s dive watch offerings in recent years have either been solar or entry-level automatics (priced at between US$300-400), while the new Promaster costs about US$1,000. The price brings with its an impressively constructed case in hardened titanium, a massive bezel, and prominently domed sapphire crystal. With Citizen having a history of dive watches with even greater depth ratings, the followups to the new Promaster will be worth keeping an eye on, especially a 1,000 m diver in the same style. The case is 15.3 mm high, with almost half of that the bezel Large and light Despite the case size, the Promaster Mechanical Diver is lightweight. Both the case and bezel are Super Titanium, titanium that boasts an extra-hard surface thanks to Duratect treatment. The process takes place with the component in chamber that’s heated to several...

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Seiko Introduces Jun 4, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Gradient Blue “Tuna” 1000 m Diver

One of Seiko’s pioneering dive watches, the “Tuna” ref. 6159-7010 was launched in 1975 as an automatic, titanium-case diver with the greatest depth rating Seiko could muster at the time, an impressive 600 m. And in 1986, Seiko upped its game with the 1000 m “Golden Tuna” ref. 7C46-7009/7010, a quartz watch that got its nickname from the gold-coated titanium inner case. With this year being the 35th anniversary of the “Golden Tuna” 1000 m, Seiko has announced a commemorative model that’s an essentially a dressed up version of the vintage original. The Seiko Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver’s 35th Anniversary Limited Edition retains the iconic shrouded case in titanium and ceramic and the same, exceptionally robust quartz movement found in the original. The key design feature of the anniversary model, however, is the gradient blue dial that’s dark blue on the upper half of the dial and fades downwards into black, evoking the depths of the sea. At the same time, the gilded details of the original have been reduced, leaving the gold plating for just screws that secure the shroud as well as the buckle. Initial thoughts The “Tuna” – in all its myriad variations – is an attractive, both for its distinctive style and its legit professional-diver heritage. More notable is the fact that the most basic “Tuna” starts at just a few hundred dollars – though the entry-level models are not true dive instruments – making the design relatively wallet-friendl...

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De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro Jun 3, 2021

De Bethune Debuts Contemporary Chiaroscuro on Titanium

Resembling an alien seashell, the Dream Watch 5 is De Bethune’s most unusual case and unquestionably its most artistic creation. While the model started out as a pared-back affair entirely in polished titanium, the DW5 has since evolved into a canvas for decoration like over-the-top, dancing-skeleton engraving. The DW5 Empreinte sits in between the two aesthetic extremes. Clad in deep, dark colours, the case is inlaid with a subtle, organic pattern that’s hard to describe. The distinctive colours and pattern were conceived by Clara Martin, who won the 2019 prize in the annual contest sponsored by De Bethune that’s open to masters students at the University of Art and Design Lausanne, better known by its French acronym ECAL. Ms Martin’s vision was realised by De Bethune cofounder Denis Flageollet, a talented watchmaker and self-taught metallurgist, as well as Michèle Rothen, the brand’s go-to engraver. Denis Flageollet and Clara Martin Initial thoughts De Bethune’s avant-garde in both style and watchmaking – an attractive combination that leaves the watchmaker with few peers. But even so, the DW5 still manages to stand out from the brand’s other offerings, as it is arguably a sculpture first and a timepiece second. The fluid, organic case is three-dimensional and gorgeous – and even more incredible when executed in the right material and colours, as demonstrated by the meteorite version of 2016. The DW5 Empreinte gets it right, with a deep black case a...

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Girard-Perregaux Inaugurates Aston Martin Partnership Jun 1, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Inaugurates Aston Martin Partnership with Skeleton Tourbillon

Earlier this year, Girard-Perregaux announced a new partnership with Aston Martin, most famous for being the carmaker of choice for James Bond. The watchmaker also signed on as a sponsor of the Aston Martin Cognizant Formula One racing team, but a collaborative watch was absent, until now. Girard-Perregaux has just taken the covers off the inaugural watch of the partnership, the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges – Aston Martin Edition, a sleek, modern interpretation of the watchmaker’s signature complication. Initial thoughts When the partnership was first revealed, the first watch that came to mind was an auto-racing chronograph on an integrated bracelet, making the all-black tourbillon a bit of a surprise. But the integrated-bracelet sports watch is now commonplace, so I am glad Girard-Perregaux went with the Flying Bridges tourbillon, a complication unique to the brand. The tourbillon movement is, of course, an evolution of the brand’s iconic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges that was invented in the mid-19th century and found in Girard-Perregaux’s finest pocket watches, including one that was sold to the then President of Mexico, the famous “La Esmeralda”. A decidedly more classical version of Girard-Perregaux’s tourbillon That said, the Aston Martin edition isn’t entirely new – the watch is actually based on the Neo Tourbillon with Three Bridges launched in 2018, but the new movement has been skeletonised even further, hence the “Floating” b...

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Zodiac constellation Initial thoughts Having May 31, 2021

KEF Elements Debuts with an Affordable Aventurine-Glass Dial

A Singaporean retailer that specialises in affordable, unconventional watches such as SevenFriday and Gorilla, Red Army Watches (RAW) now debuts its own label, KEF Elements. The brand’s maiden model is the Time & Space, a time-only wristwatch with an aventurine-glass dial bearing a glow-in-the-dark zodiac constellation. Initial thoughts Having known RAW founder Sugi Kusumadi for several years, I’ve come to admire Sugi’s passion for unusual timepieces. That’s been evident in past collaborations RAW has embarked on with a number of brands, most notably with Gorilla and Stowa. Its own brand feels like a natural next step for RAW. While the brand is brand new, KEF Elements is very much like many of the brands RAW carries, offering an intriguing aesthetic for relatively little money. Inspired by “the mystique and vastness of space”, the aventurine-glass dial lives up to the Time & Space moniker. Its sparkling surface and luminous constellation successfully evoke the cosmos. Aside from the aventurine dial, another striking aspect of the watch are the dozen dials on offer, each bearing one of the 12 zodiac constellations. An individual zodiac constellation at this price is an unusual proposition, so kudos to RAW. Celestial themes on aventurine glass have been done before, but they are usually accompanied by a hefty price tag, thus making the price of KEF Elements watch notable. With a current pre-order price of S$789, or a little bit under US$600, KEF Elements’ d...

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May 31, 2021

Alkina Wines: Fantastic Australian Terroir For Grenache

Pedro Parra, “the Indiana Jones of the wine industry,” has been quoted as saying that, “Music is like geology – some is heavy metal, some is jazz.” His perception of Australian wines is of them being too heavy. He wanted to see if he could change that, put a different interpretation on them. And at Alkina wines in Australia, where Grenache has emerged as the superstar, Ken Gargett thinks he is on the right track.

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May 30, 2021

The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people

Buying a watch is rarely something that you do on a random whim. Much like buying a car, it tends to be an extremely considered purchase where you research and agonise over every last detail. In addition, watch collectors also tend to have highly informed (and vocal) opinions over most aspects of a timepiece from … ContinuedThe post The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre s CHF681 million May 27, 2021

Editorial: The Strategic Genius of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor just debuted the Black Bay Ceramic, an appealing watch that is compelling value. I like it, but it is a well-executed dive watch in black ceramic – not majorly significant in the grander scheme of things. But actually it is significant – shrewd and strategic in its concept, and a neat illustration of Tudor’s clever and patent strategy. Why? The answer lies in the industry landscape. Tudor’s parent is Rolex, the biggest luxury-watch brand in the world. According to Morgan Stanley estimates published in March 2021, Rolex sold almost CHF8 billion of watches at retail value in 2020. The equivalent number at Omega was a little under CHF3 billion, making it the second-largest luxury-watch brand. In the same report, Morgan Stanley pegged the retail-value sales for Tudor at CHF633 million, the result of having enjoyed double-digit growth for several years. Though it’s a modest number relative to Rolex and Omega, it is substantial. The figure puts Tudor a hair below Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CHF681 million, and bigger than Panerai’s CHF520 million. Tudor’s solid growth is attributable to many factors, most of which are encapsulated in the Black Bay Ceramic. Most obvious are the historically-inspired and thoughtful design, and of course the strong value proposition it represents. But more than that it is a masterstroke. Specifically, the METAS certification that makes the Black Bay Ceramic a Master Chronometer is a brilliant move. To be clear, Tudor officially has no...

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Patek Philippe Unveils May 27, 2021

Patek Philippe Unveils the Aquanaut Chronograph in 18k White Gold

First introduced in 2018 in the lively colours of grey and orange, the Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968A was a surprising execution from a brand typically conservative in style. Patek Philippe now expands the model line with the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G in white gold, available in either midnight blue (ref. 5968G-001) or khaki green (ref. 5968G-010). Initial thoughts The new Aquanaut Chronograph iterates an existing model by drawing on elements from other Aquanauts. The midnight blue and khaki green dials are familiar because they are found on the time-only Aquanaut Ref. 5168G that’s also in white gold. Dial and case metal aside, the new chronographs are identical to the ref. 5968A of three years ago. Although the colourways aren’t novel, they are good looking, conveying a contemporary aesthetic that complements the sporty nature of the Aquanaut Chronograph. The bright colours, juxtaposed against the case of white gold – traditionally a metal for formal occasions – exemplifies the modern concept of a sports watch where it’s more luxury than sport. Between the two, my pick would be the midnight blue: its gradient finish is striking, and better reflects the elegance and historical style that are quintessentially Patek Philippe. My pick out of the two The retail price of the new chronograph is a hefty US$69,190, which is about 50% more than the steel version. Though steep, the increment is conventional for a precious metal case relative to steel. But given th...

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Seiko Reinterprets May 27, 2021

Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again)

Twenty-twenty marked 55 years since Seiko’s first foray into dive watches, which was the ref. 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Naturally, it introduced myriad vintage remakes to mark the occasion – not only of the “62MAS” but also other dive watches of the era like the ref. 6105 “Turtle”. A year on, Seiko continues with a pair of remakes: the 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS” (ref. SPB239) and the 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation “Turtle” (ref. SPB237), both powered by the mid-range 6R35 movement, making them affordable. The “6105” remake with a textured grey dial Initial thoughts There have been numerous remakes of Seiko dive watches, including several limited editions – but all are practical, affordable watches, so more isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The result is a variety of iterated case and dial combinations with something for almost everyone. The new models are as good looking as their immediate predecessors, since they are essentially alike save for minor tweaks, namely the woven-fabric strap and dial colour. The “62MAS” remake with a brown “sunburst” dial Each model is delivered with a pair of NATO-style fabric straps that add a bit of vintage charm to the look, especially compared to the rubber straps usually found on dive watches. Although the fabric straps are merely, well, fabric straps, they are special. The straps are braided with the technique known as seichu, traditionally used to weave obijime, the co...

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F.P. Journe May 26, 2021

Urwerk Debuts the Tantalum Swansong for the UR-105

Launched in 2014 as a successor to the foundational UR-103, the UR-105 was a more elaborate version of Urwerk’s satellite-disc, wandering-hours watch. After a seven-year run – it’s been replaced by the entry-level UR-100 – the UR-105 series will now be retired. Urwerk is giving the model a grand send-off with the UR-105 TTH, which has the front plate and lid of its case made of tantalum, the bluish-grey metal that Urwerk has only used in one other instance with the UR-110 TTH. Based the UR-105 CT Streamliner with its characteristic hinged lid, the UR-105 TTH is all about its case material. A dense metal with a distinctive colour that’s used for surgical implants, turbine blades, and even artillery shells, tantalum is difficult to machine and finish due to its hardness. Consequently, while tantalum has been used for watch cases since the 1990s, but it is uncommon. Urwerk is one of a handful of brands, alongside Omega and F.P. Journe, to use the metal for a watch case. Initial thoughts All good things must come to an end, and Urwerk is closing the chapter with aplomb. With the distinctive hue of tantalum, the case fits the sci-fi industrial spirit of the brand well. Striking and futuristic, the UR-105 is sleek in tantalum. The metal will make it substantially heavier than the standard steel version of the UR-105, which would make it less easily wearable. Priced at CHF77,000, or about US$86,000, the UR-105 TTH is 20% more expensive the base-model UR-105 CT i...

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May 25, 2021

NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack

First up, an introduction as to how this column is going to run and for that a high-end car metaphor is required. The majority of the timepieces that fill this site can, without too much of a stretch, be equated to wrist Ferraris, horological McLarens, an Aston Martin with tourbillons – you get the picture. … ContinuedThe post NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tudor Introduces May 25, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor hit it out of the park at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the surprising pair of precious-metal Fifty Eights (in 18k gold as well as sterling silver), but it’s clear the brand is not done with the year yet. Tudor has just taken the covers off the Black Bay Ceramic. The new 41 mm diver is the brand’s first regular-production dive watch with a ceramic case, but more significant is the fact that this is Tudor’s first watch to obtain METAS certification, making it a Master Chronometer. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Ceramic is a surprise. Tudor hinted at a new launch recently, but given it just announced a partnership with French Navy, or Marine Nationale, I was expecting an “MN” dive watch with blue dial. That said, it was inevitable a ceramic dive watch was in the pipeline after. For one, the brand already had a ceramic case chronograph in the catalogue with the usually overlooked the Fastrider Black Shield. And more importantly, the unique Black Bay Ceramic One – essentially the forerunner of the Black Bay Ceramic – sold for CHF350,000 at charity auction Only Watch 2019. The Black Bay Ceramic One from 2019 The Black Bay Ceramic While inevitable, the Black Bay Ceramic is still very much welcome. Its aesthetic is a good one, managing to feel contemporary despite the all-black aesthetic having had its heyday about decade ago. I would have hoped for a 39 mm Fifty-Eight case, instead of the 41 mm that it is, but its dark colours will make the case appear sma...

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Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred May 25, 2021

In-Depth: Recreating the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred Years Later

As one of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive timepieces marks its 100th anniversary, the watchmaker rolled out a handful of jubilee models during Watches & Wonders 2021 for the occasion, most notably the extremely good looking American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. But Vacheron Constantin had something else up its sleeve for the 1921’s century – something really special – a near-exact recreation of the vintage original from 1921. Christened the American 1921 Pièce Unique, the watch is a one-off created as a joint project by the brand’s Restoration Workshop and Heritage Department, overseen by Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni, whose long tenure at Vacheron Constantin means he is practically the brand’s institutional memory. The watch is more than just a visual replica – an identical case and movement is a given – but even the most minor of details have been reproduced faithfully, right down to the gold alloy of the case and period-correct vintage parts from its archives. Initial thoughts While the modern-day American 1921 is a fan-favourite, it necessarily omits some of the finer details of the vintage original, in order to cater to current tastes as well as production methods. As such, even the most-delicious Collection Excellence Platine edition can be critiqued, for the mismatch in hand colours or the seemingly misaligned seconds register. In contrast, the recreation is satisfyingly spot on, which give it an attractive, bona fi...

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Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Master May 25, 2021

Introducing the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Master Chronometer

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Master Chronometer is the brand’s first dive watch with a 41mm ceramic case with sandblasted finish, ceramic bezel insert, black dial and a display caseback. It comes with a manufacture calibre and a Master Chronometer certification from METAS.

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Konstantin Chaykin May 24, 2021

Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul

Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul. By Alexey Kutkovoy. Chaykin.ru; €230 Just glancing at Konstantin Chaykin’s repertoire tells you that there must be many stories behind his watches and clocks – they are markedly out of the ordinary. To tell some of those stories behind the timepieces – and his own story – Konstantin recruited renowned Russian watch journalist Alexey Kutkovoy in 2019. Despite Konstantin being a perfectionist, Mr Kutkovoy had journalistic freedom. “I was not bound by his control, so I had the privilege to compose my own independent vision with some nice subjects discovered, and I’m happy he left that untouched,” mentions Mr Kutkovoy. The Joker Selfie made for charity auction Only Watch 2019 His life and work The result is Konstantin Chaykin, a wide-ranging book that’s both an overview of Konstantin’s first 17 years of watchmaking as well as the myriad tales about his watches and clocks. Konstantin Chaykin is 384 well-filled pages, laid out in an unusual design that befits the individualism found in his watches. Originally published in Russian, the book is now available in English in a limited edition of 1,000 copies. Mr Kutkovoy decided to present Konstantin’s story in two separate threads – a timeline and an evolution of Konstantin’s clock and watch inventions – that presents a detailed history in a most accessible way. The opened cover of Konstantin Chaykin The first section is a chronological narrative, ...

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Breguet inspired watch May 23, 2021

Franck Muller Unveils Cintrée Curvex Central Tourbillon

Having proclaimed himself the “Master of Complications”, Franck Muller the man was once one of the most inventive contemporary watchmakers. He has stepped back from the business that bears his name – which is now known for its extravagant style – but the brand continues to have the occasional interesting complication. The Grand Central Tourbillon is one such watch, boasting a large, flying tourbillon at the centre of the dial. Offered in a variety of coloured dials with “exploding” numerals, the Grand Central Tourbillon is powered by an automatic, form movement that traces the shape of the brand’s signature Cintrée Curvex case. Initial thoughts Today Franck Muller is mostly associated with flashy watches like the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. But long ago Franck Muller himself debuted his first tourbillon wristwatch in 1984 – a Breguet-inspired watch with just “Franck” on the dial – the first of many tourbillons he would go on to create. The Grand Central Tourbillon evokes some of Franck Muller’s history with its unusual central tourbillon. The complication is rare, with only a handful of brands having accomplished a central tourbillon, most notable amongst them Omega and Beat Haldimann. And Franck Muller has made it more interesting – the movement is automatic with a four-day power reserve. As per the norm for the brand, the Grand Central Tourbillon is available in myriad colours and metals – some iterations almost indistinguishable from the...

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Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium Launched May 19, 2021

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium

Launched just earlier in the year, the Longines Avigation BigEye in titanium is a follow up to the original, which was historically faithful in terms of the design. The new titanium version, however, is more compelling. The titanium BigEye retains the same design, but gets a new look with the blue dial and titanium case. Both substantially change its look and feel for the better, while retaining the usual affordability of Longines’ many remakes. Initial thoughts The new Avigation BigEye departs from the typical Longines formula for remakes, which to faithfully reproduce as far as possible, right down to the spotting on old dials. In contrast, the Avigation BigEye in titanium preserves the design of the remake, but renders the dial in a clearly modern texture and colour. And of course the case is titanium. Notably, the new Avigation BigEye, along with other recent remakes like the Legend Diver in bronze, appear to mark a shift in Longines’ strategy for its historically-inspired watches. Instead of concentrating merely on one-for-one replicas, Longines is making them more interesting with modern colours and materials. That’s a good thing, especially given the obvious fact that Longines’ designers have shown themselves to possess a good eye. They manage to tweak existing designs while preserving the spirit of the original, as demonstrated by the BigEye in titanium. The result is a lightweight, and good looking watch. It does have the shortcomings of the steel versio...

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Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration May 14, 2021

Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration

Shortly after launching the last of the 17-series, at least under its own label, Ming is rolling out a tie up with Massena Lab – the 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab Limited Edition. Having got its start by collaborating with brands like Habring2 before introducing its eponymous brand, Massena Lab puts its own twist on the 17.09 with a honeycomb dial in either honey or black, which will be limited to 50 and 150 pieces respectively. The 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab in black Initial thoughts I loved the 17.09, so much, in fact that I placed an order for one. It’s a well-executed watch at an extremely appealing price point. Likewise, I find the 17.09 Massena Lab attractive. The two models retain the best aspects of the 17.09, such as the floating minute track, skeletonised hands, as well as Ming’s signature flared lugs. But the 17.09 Massena Lab adds a bit more intricacy to the design. When the 17.09 was announced last month, I wrote “the clous de Paris guilloché in the center is less unique than the spiral motif found on the dials of the 17.06″. The dial and its “floating” numerals By doing away with the clous de Paris in favour of honeycomb, the Massena Lab editions become eminently more striking than the standard versions. Between the two, my pick would be the honey dial – the black dial comes a tad too close to triggering my trypophobia. Priced at US$2,595 in black (and US$200 more in honey), the collaborative 17.09s are 20-30% more expensive than the standard...

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Rolex Chronergy System Rolex launched May 14, 2021

In-Depth: The Rolex Chronergy System

Rolex launched Chronergy – essentially a mechanical ecosystem for optimal mechanical performance – with the cal. 3255 in the top-of-the-line Day-Date 40 that made its debut in 2015. Six years on, Rolex has upgraded practically its entire line up with latest-generation, Chronergy-equipped cal. 32XX family, including its most affordable offerings. Chronergy movements are found in the Datejust (cal. 3235) and Oyster Perpetual (cal. 3230), and also the entry-level sports watches, like last year’s Submariner ref. 124060 (cal. 3230). Chronergy is made up of 14 patents covering every aspect of a movement from power source to regulator, but a fundamental element is its escapement. And the Chronergy escapement actually continues a long-forgotten journey that began some fifty years ago on the other side of the world. Still sound at 300 years old Invented in the mid 1750s by Thomas Mudge (1715-1794), the lever escapement was arguably the necessary iteration of the deadbeat escapement once it was miniaturised for a watch. Having been conceived by George Graham (1673-1751) as a refinement of the anchor escapement in pendulum clocks, the deadbeat escapement was unsuited to the delicacy of watch proportions. In the lever escapement, impulse is provided to the balance via a lever, which is in turn propelled by the force of the escape wheel teeth contacting the pallet jewels of the lever. And the lever escapement is a detached escapement, meaning the escape wheel locks free of ...

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Bulgari Drops May 13, 2021

Bulgari Drops the Glow-in-the-Dark Aluminium Collab with DJ Steve Aoki

Bulgari has teamed up with Steve Aoki to create the Aluminum Steve Aoki, a funky version of its aluminium-and-rubber watch. Launched in 1998 and then revived last year, the Aluminum is an entry-level, lightweight sports watch that’s been given a subtle but fun twist with the “O” from the American DJ’s signature incorporated into the dial. Born in California – his father founded the popular Japanese restaurant chain Benihana – Steve Aoki is one of the world’s most successful DJs, having collaborated with various musicians from Maluma to BTS. A fixture in the “Top 100” rankings by industry publication DJ Magazine, Mr Aoki also has his own streetwear line, making this collaboration with the Roman jeweller a natural evolution. Initial thoughts A hit upon its revival last year, the Aluminium is cheerful and affordable, while having an easily recognisable Bulgari design. Its design is strong enough that I find it to be one of the most fascinating watches in its price segment, despite the generic movement. The only downside of the Aluminium is the softness of the metal, which means the watch case will show wear more quickly than a steel watch. And careless wear will result in a case that looks very worn. The Aluminum gets better with Steve Aoki collaboration. The DJ’s emblem on the dial is modern, bold, and a perfect match for the spirit of watch. But it’s also discreet – hardly visible during the day at arm’s length – preserving the classic design....

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May 13, 2021

G-Shock Unveils Full Metal “Rainbow” in TranTixxii Titanium

Oblong in shape and entirely resin, the original G-Shock has evolved in recent years into something altogether more fancy, while retaining the signature 5000-series design. While the traditional resin models remain in the line up, the Full Metal collection has rapidly grown to include models in steel, titanium, as well as in ridiculous-but-cool 18k yellow gold. Taking things to the next level is the G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000TR. Made of a newly-developed titanium alloy that’s twice as hard as pure titanium, the latest Full Metal model has an unapologetically bold  “rainbow” bracelet with links in four different colours. Initial thoughts I was shocked when I first saw the multicolour bracelet – it seemed too much. But I let it sit for a day, and the look started to grow on me. The Full Metal “Rainbow” is a G-Shock that truly caters to the enthusiasts, because it is so different and so unexpected, yet executed to a high standard – attributes that mark it out as a serious G-Shock for the collector who is willing to pay a premium for such things. Echoing the bracelet, the digital display is also multicolour The foundations of the watch are strong. Now almost 40 years old, the design remains durable – the square case is the iconic G-Shock – and looks as good as it did in 1983 when the DW-5000 made its debut. Rendering the design in rainbow colours and a new titanium alloy only adds to the appeal. That said, this is the latest of many, many Full Metal mode...

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Casio nally whimsical style Hermès May 12, 2021

Hermès Debuts Sci-Fi Pop Art in Miniature Painting

Defined by its refined and occasionally whimsical style, Hermès emphasises whimsy with the new Arceau Space Derby, which reinterprets the Space Derby scarves, repurposing the sci-fi motif as miniature paintings for the wrist. The Arceau Space Derby will be available in two sizes: the smaller 38 mm with a diamond bezel and pink opaline glass dial, as well as two larger 41 mm models with dials in aventurine glass. The small model is limited to 24 pieces, while only 12 each will be made of the large models. The smaller version with a pink opaline glass dial Initial thoughts I absolutely love the Arceau Space Derby. Hermès makes a diversity of goods, from leather to clothing to high-end homeware, but often sharing the same motifs that are typically appealing and original. So its habit of looking into its past designs for its wristwatches is brilliant. The illustrator of Space Derby, French comic artist Ugo Bienvenu, drew inspiration from 20th-century American comics for the derby set amongst the stars. Depicting a robot horse yet so sci-fi it’s not immediately obvious, the painting is both overt and subtle in its reference to the longstanding equestrian history of Hermès, which was was founded as a saddle maker. And that also explains the signature Arceau watch case, which has an asymmetrical outline inspired by a stirrup. Detail rendered spectacularly by hand The diamond-set, 38 mm variant is clearly for women, while the 41 mm versions are unisex. Between the two lar...

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Deployant

Patek Philippe s new In-Line Perpetual May 10, 2021

Patek Philippe’s new In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P – detailed review

Patek Philippe unveils the Ref. 5236P-001 In-Line Perpetual Calendar, the brand's first wristwatch with a linear calendar display.

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Time+Tide

Omega May 7, 2021

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man”

Action heroes are Hollywood’s idealised version of traditional masculinity. There is therefore a powerful effect when big-screen tough guys sport a nice watch as they kick ass, dodge bullets and save the world. With the James Bond franchise, the Broccoli family created paid partnerships with companies like Omega to be featured in Bond’s wardrobe. But … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet May 6, 2021

Obituary: Gino Cukrowicz, Watch Retailer Extraordinaire (1959-2021)

A bon vivant from an era where many watch retailers were personalities, Gino Cukrowicz passed away in Singapore on May 6, 2021, just shy of his 62nd birthday. Gino was proprietor of Ginotti, a watch store in Belgium that he cofounded with Thierry Maldague in 1987, but perhaps best known as one of the partners in F.P. Journe. He’s pictured above with his wife Radhi and Francois-Paul Journe. A notable individual in both style and substance, Gino was always dressed in colours and eye-catching shoes, along with a large diamond stud on each year. Though Gino only owned a single watch store, his had an influence in the business, much like his peer Laurent Picciotto of Paris, because of his experience and taste. As a measure of his stature, Gino’s funeral service in Singapore included tributes from Francois-Henry Bennahmias and Patrick Pruniaux, the chief executives of Audemars Piguet and Ulysse Nardin respectively, as well as Masaki Saito, the longtime head of sales at F.P. Journe, and Jean-Claude Biver. Gino with Thierry Maldague outside Ginotti (left), and pictured in the 1990s. Photo – Shawn Mehta I last spoke with Gino at length in 2018, when he was in Singapore along with Francois-Paul Journe. Having arrived early for the interview with Mr Journe, I spent the time having a fascinating conversation with Gino, who had on his wrist an F.P. Journe Ruthenium Tourbillon with a platinum bracelet. He was frank, his outsized passion for independent watchmakers obvious, and hi...

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