Deployant
Live from GWD26: Hands-on with the Amazing Rexhep Rexhepi Chrono Flyback
Day -1 of GWD began with an impromptu visit to the Rexhep Rehepi Ateliers and had hands-on with the Chronograph Flyback Prototype No.1.
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Deployant
Day -1 of GWD began with an impromptu visit to the Rexhep Rehepi Ateliers and had hands-on with the Chronograph Flyback Prototype No.1.
Monochrome
Piaget has long built its watchmaking reputation on a combination of ultra-thin movements and decorative techniques. Founded in 1874 by Georges-Édouard Piaget in La Côte-aux-Fées, the Maison developed its expertise in high-precision movements before making ultra-thin mechanical calibres one of its defining specialities. This expertise has also extended to major complications, including the tourbillon, chronograph, […]
Time+Tide
With Geneva Watch Days kicking off Tuesday, most of this week’s novelties are trying to get ahead of next week’s flood of news, and they’re not holding back. You’ll find completely new perpetual calendars, fresh chronograph sizes from established names, and some genuinely incredible craftsmanship from a few of the best houses to ever do … Continued
Hodinkee
There were three watches I was disappointed to have missed at Watches & Wonders. To be fair, I missed all the releases at Watches & Wonders this year, but in my mind, the three most interesting watches from the show were the Vacheron Constantin Overseas "Cardinal Points," the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux, and this watch from Laurent Ferrier: the Sport Traveller. I like the Laurent Ferrier brand a lot. But I've been wondering whether, in hindsight, I was a bit harsh on their entry-level Sport Auto when it was released in 2023. I liked the watch in theory, but in practice I had a few minor issues with the bracelet fit and tolerance, the thickness, and the price. I know a few people who own the watch, and my feelings have softened over time. But reading that old review, I wonder if I was right or just picking nits. This year's release of the Sport Traveller combined one of my two favorite complications—travel time/GMT—with lightweight titanium, which seems to be le matériel du jour. It also gave me a chance to reevaluate my take on the watch, especially in a market that's become even more crowded and an audience that's more price-sensitive. Let's tackle the specs first and then move on to the feelings. Measuring 42mm by 13.3mm thick in grade 5 titanium, with 100m of water resistance, the watch is only 0.5mm wider and 0.6mm thicker than the original Sport Auto, which shows the strength of the movement design in being able to pack an extra complic...
Monochrome
While Tiffany is mostly known for its emblematic blue colour and its high-end jewellery, the NYC-based brand has been involved in watchmaking for much longer than most would expect. For instance, Tiffany introduced its first chronograph, back then a pocket watch, of course, back in 1866. Earlier this year, to celebrate the 160th anniversary of […]
Time+Tide
The new Tiffany Timer Titanium Platinum watch celebrates 160 years since the introduction of Tiffany & Co.’s first chronograph: the 1866 Timing Watch. It features a 40mm satin-brushed titanium case, a polished platinum bezel, and signature Tiffany Blue dial accents. The watch is powered by a customised Zenith El Primero 400 movement topped with the … Continued
SJX Watches
The Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher is a compelling showcase of the brand’s industrial expertise and increasingly compelling value proposition. The watch pairs 1930s charm with a thoroughly modern manually wound monopusher chronograph. The advanced calibre is complemented by a richly textured dial — in soft blue or warm silver — that features period-inspired pulsometer typography and applied numerals. Initial thoughts The Master Monopusher is illustrative of the industrial transformation that has taken place over the past decade at Longines. Like its rival Tudor, Longines has aggressively moved to incorporate advanced features like silicon hairsprings to create distance between itself and the ever-growing roster of brands that rely on more generic movement platforms that are widely available from suppliers like Sellita and La Joux-Perret. A decade ago, Longines’ latest and greatest monopusher chronograph had an industry-standard Nivarox hairspring, and was adjusted by means of a generic curb-pin regulator. Power reserve was a reasonable — but unimpressive — 54 hours. Fast-forward to today, and every one of these details has been meaningfully upgraded, giving consumers and collectors a reason to choose a mainstream powerhouse over an independent start-up. The advanced technical content results in an attractive value at US$3,900, a price that undercuts rivals like Montblanc that offer similar monopushers. Furthermore, that’s less money — in both ...
Monochrome
For those with a passion for mechanics, like surely many us have, there’s something magical about seeing a watch movement run. Seeing a whole bunch of minuscule parts working in perfect harmony to tell time, and well beyond just the passing of hours, minutes and seconds, just never gets old. With the vast majority of […]
Hodinkee
Earlier in April, right before the kickoff of Watches and Wonders, Swiss independent Sylvain Pinaud announced his third major creation since the founding of his workshop in 2018. First came his Monopoussoir Chronograph, then arguably the more recognizable time-only Origine series. This third entry in the collection is the pragmatically named Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon—any guesses what complication this watch holds? I kid, but the new watches are an absolute treat to see and handle in person. Even though the intense wave of new releases from dozens of brands in Geneva may have quickly steered the online conversation away from these new watches toward Jubilee dials and Nautilus desk clocks, these watches did not go unnoticed by collectors. Thirty of them, to be precise. The Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon was announced in three limited editions of ten pieces each, priced at CHF 180,000, and all three variants sold out within days. But before we get to the new watches, you might be asking what the situation is with the watchmaker these days, given that every decently well-known high-end independent watchmaker seems never to struggle with demand. That's pretty much the case here, too. Long story short, Pinaud and his team of 8 produce around 25 watches per year, and the Origine series has been fully allocated through its planned run through 2027. Given the sell-out of the Tourbillon and the sunsetting of the Origine, it kind of sounds like there isn't much to offer a prospective ...
Monochrome
Tutima, based in Glashütte, earned its wings in the 1940s with its military and pilot’s watches and, in 1941, produced Germany’s first two-pusher flyback chronograph (later referred to as the Flieger). In 2019, Tutima released a contemporary, less tool-oriented, time-and-date take on the Flieger. The latest model to join the squadron is the Flieger T5, […]
SJX Watches
Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...
Hodinkee
What We Know Swiss brand Albishorn, carving out a niche with "imaginary vintage" designs, just released a simplified version of its regatta chronograph with the Marinagraph Classic. I first covered this complication in my hands-on review two years ago with the Albishorn Maxigraph, the brand's debut model and a collaboration with Massena LAB. Since then, the regatta chronograph has lived on under Albishorn's "Water" collection as the Marinagraph, combining the complication with a tide bezel. Today's Marinagraph Classic isn't all that different from the Marinagraph Classic Racing. Visually, the biggest difference is the swap from that colorful aluminum insert tide bezel to a large bidirectional sapphire bezel with more traditional, lumed markings. And yes, there are new dials too. While the sunray-brushed black dial remains, the new dial comes in the form of a white fumé color, with what could have been misconstrued as a shadow in the brand photography actually a subtle dark fade around the edges of the white dial. The black dial sports contrasting silver hands and markers, while the ones on the white fumé dial offer a stark black contrast. On both dials, the ten-minute retrograde regatta countdown scale at 7 o'clock is colored in blue and red, while the chronograph and regatta seconds hands are matched on each dial in either red for the black dial or blue for the white. My favorite feature since the first Maxigraph has been the aperture at 3 o'clock, serving as a running ...
Fratello
Grøne introduces the Horologium, a new manual-winding timepiece available in two different versions, “Something Quirky” and “Something Classic.” Both watches come in a 39mm stainless steel case and feature small seconds, a Swiss-made manual-winding movement by La Joux-Perret, a 60-hour power reserve, and 5 ATM of water resistance. Limited to 188 pieces per version, the […] Visit Play It Classic, Or Make It Loud: Unpacking the Grøne Horologium’s Dual Identity to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Offered in both three-handed and chronograph form, echo/neutra's new sand-coloured dials bring a warmer look to its Averau range.
Worn & Wound
Saturday, 11 July, 11:56AM. “30 Seconds” the timekeeper announces above the fluttering idle of the MG’s 4-cylinder dual carbureted motor. It’s not even midday and I am sweating. Part of it is the epic heatwave hitting Britain and the rest of Europe. Part of it is nerves. “15 Seconds” reminds the timekeeper. I’ve long shaken off the drowsiness from a poor night’s sleep. The cheers from Cole and the rest of the crows representing Tudor fade as concentration takes over. I glance back down at the route book in my lap. Test one is a simple task- only a dozen or so cones and a few slaloms to navigate in the span of a single minute. Simple. I am already feeling the pressure. Shortly, it’s going to get a lot more complicated. “10 Seconds”. Jacob, the driver, looks over at me and clutches in and slots the car into first gear. No words are needed in these precious few seconds. We know what we need to do. I’ve already synchronized the Tudor Ranger 39mm on my left wrist to the exact time of day- in case I forget to reset the stopwatch. A highlighter in my left hand, a pen in my right. Left page- my landmarks, intersections, and signposts. Right page-my time and distance benchmarks. “Five. Four. Three. Two. One. GO!” Jacob gives it gas and clutches out. As the MG leaps forward, my nerves vanish and what little instinct I’ve picked up in the last 15 hours have kicked in. The scream of the MG’s engine tells me it’s about to kiss redline. Jacob executes...
Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier is a brand that has long embodied the idea of quiet luxury — or "private luxury," as Parmigiani CEO Guido Terrini asserts — frankly, sometimes to a fault. Many of its models pair spectacular watchmaking with a radically simplified design language, and the unique execution of a mechanical chronograph in the brand's Tonda Chronograph Mystérieux earlier this spring quite literally hides its mechanical extravagance as part of the complication. We'll have more on the Chronograph Mystérieux soon, but there's another watch launched this year that also feels unmistakably Parmigiani in execution—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary in white gold. To celebrate the brand's 30th anniversary this year, Parmigiani Fleurier launched a trio of limited-edition Toric models at Watches and Wonders, featuring hand-hammered gold dials. The Toric Petite Seconde in platinum, a Toric Quantième Perpétuel in rose gold, and a Toric Chronographe Rattrapante in platinum all got the new dial treatment. Then, a few months after the show, Parmigiani dropped this whopper of a watch. Let's get the not-so-fun part out of the way first—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary is limited to 5 pieces, and priced at CHF 490,000. To most collectors, it might be an unobtainium watch in so many aspects, but that doesn't stop this thing from being an absolute joy to see in person. At a glance, the overall silhouette of the Carillon Tourbillon fits into the classic Parmigiani play...
Fratello
Last year, Singer Reimagined surprised us with the Heritage Chronograph Collection with a restored and rebuilt Valjoux 236 movement. This model debuted in both green and black dial colorways, and a very limited run of 10 pieces with a “Terracotta” dial was then shown at Dubai Watch Week. Now, Singer Reimagined unveils its next Heritage […] Visit Hot Take: The Singer Reimagined Heritage V72 Now With A Midas Touch to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The $149 Timex Retroware Digital brings '80s-style digital fun back with a bold curvy display, chronograph, alarm, and Indiglo. Here's where it fits.
SJX Watches
Following TAG Heuer’s first collaboration with Japanese racing squad Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Department in 2023, the trio has returned for a second lap with the limited edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, bringing the red-and-white livery of the racing legend to the popular “glassbox” format for the first time. Initial thoughts Unlike many other legacy Swiss watch brands, TAG Heuer has demonstrated an ability to reach beyond traditional design influences to infuse its watches with a diverse range of elements from contemporary fashion. Last year’s Fujiwara streetwear collab is a prime example. With racing being so strongly linked to TAG Heuer’s history and brand identity, the collaboration with Ikuzawa is conceptually very fitting and extends the brand’s reach beyond the starting grid, deeper into motorsport culture. The Carrera Ikuzawa gets the mid-sized 39 mm ‘glassbox’ case, which is just under 14 mm thick. The case takes its name from its dramatically domed crystal, which encompasses the raised dial flange underneath, in place of a traditional bezel. Despite numerous vintage design cues, the Carrera Ikuzawa doesn’t look or feel like a vintage watch or vintage reissue. The clous de Paris dial texture and the depth of the ‘glassbox’ construction help it maintain its contemporary look. A Chrono-first dial With so much in common with the standard Carrera, much of the difference is down to the dial, which blends design cues from...
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer has released a new three-way collaboration and a sequel of sorts in their new Carrera Chronograph made in partnership with Team Ikuzawa with a design assist from Bamford. Team Ikuzawa is a legendary Japanese motorsport team founded by driver Tetsu Ikuzawa and continues today under the stewardship of his daughter Mai Ikuzawa as an all encompassing motorsport, design, fashion, and luxury brand. And Bamford is, of course, Bamford, founded by George Bamford and well known for being a pioneer in high end luxury watch modding and now making watches under their own name, and frequently collaborating as a design partner for the likes of G-SHOCK, Zenith, and countless others. The new Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa release seen here follows a 2023 Carrera release with a similar look, but offered on the prior Carrera platform. Here, all parties involved benefit from the new Glassbox case design, which includes a 39mm case and a gorgeous vintage style “glassbox” crystal that accentuates and magnifies the dial’s perimeter and offers a ton of visual interest at odd angles. We’ve covered these watches pretty extensively and are big fans of the case proportions and the approach TAG Heuer is taking here. They seem to please both the mass market and the enthusiast crowd, which is a vanishingly rare trick for a large brand like TAG Heuer to pull off. For this release, TAG, Team Ikuzawa, and Bamford have leaned into the red and white colorway most associated with the...
SJX Watches
Next month Citizen’s The Citizen collection brings a new look to its exceedingly accurate high-end quartz watches. Still accurate to five seconds a year, or better, with a perpetual calendar and scratch-resistant titanium case, this limited edition introduces an indigo-dyed washi paper dial, produced using traditional craft methods. Initial thoughts Citizen’s The Citizen collection, which celebrated 30 years of questionable naming just last year, remains somewhat obscure even amongst watch enthusiasts. That’s unfortunate, as it has nothing to do with the quality of the watches, which are excellent and often handsome. And while the line now includes mechanical watches, high-end quartz is where The Citizen really shines. No two examples are the same. Though frequently compared to Grand Seiko’s cal. 9F movement family, I would argue The Citizen’s A0 line of solar quartz movements are of a different breed, more comparable to Seiko’s cal. 3X Astron movements or even Casio’s high-end G-Shocks. These share solar charging, a perpetual calendar, and a power-save made that pauses the hands to save energy when the watch is not in use. However, The Citizen’s aesthetic differs widely from those of the Astron and G-Shock, favouring the sharply reserved style that has defined chronometry-focused Japanese watchmaking for decades. The other key difference is autonomy. Unlike Astrons and G-Shocks, which can vary by as much as 15 seconds per month without network synchronisat...
Fratello
When I hear the name Hamilton, dive watches aren’t the first things that come to mind. The Swiss brand with American roots is mostly known for its great lineup of military field watches. On top of that, the classic Ventura and the Intra-Matic Chronograph are among its more famous offerings. That said, the Khaki Navy […] Visit Do New Dials And Colors For Hamilton’s Khaki Navy Scuba Lineup Do The Trick? to read the full article.
Monochrome
In the field of independent watch brands, Laine Watches holds a special place, with its focus on finishing, movement decoration (not manufacturing), and highly respectable guillochage skills. Founded ten years ago by Finnish watchmaker Torsti Laine and based in the Canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the small atelier creates classical time-only watches (even though a chronograph […]
Monochrome
Earlier this year, Minerva stepped out from the shadow of Montblanc to reclaim its independent, stand-alone branding and celebrated the occasion by releasing two limited editions of the Unveiled Secret. Presented in compact 39mm cases with wine-red accents and a new, inverted in-house monopusher chronograph calibre exposed in all its magnificence on the dial, rest […]
WatchAdvice
The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is bold, unapologetically big, and has major wrist presence. And we love it! What We Love The look of the microblasted titanium case with the purple dial and strap The lightweight construction makes it easy to wear The 1/100th second chronograph is a fun complication to play with What We Don’t It is a larger watch that will not fit all wrists The style is not for everyone or everyday wear due to the size, design, and colour The power reserve could be stretched a little more to 60 hours if I’m being picky Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The Zenith DEFY Extreme is a cool watch, no matter how you look at it. This is the third DEFY Extreme I’ve been able to wear, and every time I put one on my wrist, it just feels right. Yes, it’s not exactly a technical analysis to start a watch review with, but there’s something about these watches that makes me smile. Last year, when I reviewed the DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow, I found it to be a surprisingly easy-wearing watch thanks to the titanium construction and the way Zenith has crafted the case design and bracelet. It wore exceptionally well on the wrist, although slightly smaller at 42.5mm. The Zenith DEFY Extreme models I went hands-on with last year However, I did then spend some time with the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli with the high-polish two-tone case, which would be the Ultraviolet’s more flamboyant cousin. Agai...
Monochrome
Lebois & Co, an old name revived by Tom van Wijlick, a Dutch native, has steadily built a collection of classically styled, vintage-character watches. Last year’s Heritage Small Seconds introduced a compact dress watch series inspired by the brand’s mid-century archives. Now, two new references are launching the Heritage Atelier collection: the Small Seconds Clous […]
WatchRider
Breitling has unveiled the Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Aston Martin DB5, a three-watch limited-edition collection inspired by the British grand tourer introduced in 1963. This is the historical side of the new Breitling–Aston Martin partnership, and it is a far more literal meeting of the two brands than the Formula 1-themed Navitimer that opened the collaboration. Time and speed, reunited The connection is not manufactured from a marketing spreadsheet. Breitling launched the youthful, speed-focused Top Time during the 1960s, and Sean Connery wore a modified Top Time reference 2002 in Thunderball in 1965 while driving the Aston Martin DB5. Now Breitling has translated the car’s silver bodywork, dark instrumentation, timber trim and hand-finished leather into three versions of its modern cushion-cased chronograph. All three measure 41mm in diameter and 13.3mm thick, use domed sapphire crystals, offer 100 metres of water resistance and arrive on brown calfskin straps with folding clasps. A wooden inner bezel is the defining DB5 detail: it recalls the car’s steering wheel and dashboard without putting a miniature vehicle on the dial. The silver-dial steel edition echoes the DB5’s bodywork and handcrafted interior. Image: Breitling. Steel: the closest match to the classic DB5 Reference AB0178121G1X1 is the most direct interpretation. Its stainless-steel case surrounds a silver-toned dial, brown wooden tachymeter scale and a hand-coloured gradient leather str...
Fratello
Breitling has announced a series of limited-edition Top Time B01 Chronograph models celebrating the Aston Martin DB5. These three motoring-inspired chronographs feature a cushion-shaped case with subtle Art Deco grooves in each corner. Combined with pump pushers, the design delivers a distinct 1960s character, making the connection to Aston Martin’s legendary British grand tourer feel […] Visit Breitling Launches A Top Time Trio Paying Tribute To The Aston Martin DB5 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the world of the modern Rolex Daytona. It’s one of the most debated watches among watch enthusiasts. Whether it’s about the Daytona’s aura, the fact that it’s become an unobtainium, or its design, people have a lot to say about The Crown’s iconic chronograph. Despite all […] Visit The Top 5 Current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Models to read the full article.
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