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Astronauts, Avengers, Unicorns, Academy Award Winners, Mountaineers, Golfers, And Astronomic Clock Watches: 9 Stupendous Highlights Of Phillips Game Changers Auction Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe models But there are Nov 16, 2019

Astronauts, Avengers, Unicorns, Academy Award Winners, Mountaineers, Golfers, And Astronomic Clock Watches: 9 Stupendous Highlights Of Phillips Game Changers Auction

Phillips Game Changers is a compact auction featuring 74 lots, among them the usual array of rare, fine, and attractive Rolex and Patek Philippe models. But there are a few watches in this auction that are notable for reasons outside of the fact that they fine, rare, attractive, and made by certain brands. And it is these watches that Elizabeth Doerr highlights here. Oh, and spoiler: there are indeed two Rolex models among them, but you’ll see why.

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction X SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 Nov 10, 2019

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction X

With the Double Signed theme auction out of the way, here are a few highlights from Phillips’ Geneva watch auction, including a Lange Zeitwerk that might be a value buy, and a steel Rolex Day-Date prototype. Lot 145 – Lange Zeitwerk in rose gold The Zeitwerk is unquestionably a modern classic – notably, it is probably the most reliable digital display watch on the market – and is relatively good value on the secondary market, selling for a chunk off retail. This example is in rose gold, and is complete with all boxes and paperwork. It was first sold in 2011, and obviously wasn’t worn much sine then. The estimate is just 20,000-40,000 Swiss francs. Lot 179 – Patek Philippe ref. 1463 in steel One of the top lots in the sale, this is a ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”, an early water-resistant chronograph by Patek Philippe. But this is in steel, of which only 67 are known, with a two-tone dial, furthering reducing the number known to just 17. The watch is in excellent condition, with a sharply preserved case and original dial, although the dial might have been cleaned in the distant past. The estimate is 300,000-600,000 francs. Lot 209 – Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold The ref. 1518 is a landmark, being the first serially produced chronograph with perpetual calendar. This is a good example of the ref. 1518, almost the quintessential version of the model with a yellow gold case. It is clean and in good condition, albeit showing a little bit of age on the dial,...

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Editor’s note Nov 10, 2019

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Editor’s note: If you’re in the market for a steel sports watch with a chronograph complication, you really are spoilt for choice. Rolex’s Daytona, Omega’s Speedmaster, Tudor’s Black Bay Chronograph … the list goes on. However, if you’re looking for a timepiece that meets all of the aforementioned criteria, while still possessing a real and genuine … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517 Time+Tide
Breguet Marine 5517 More than Nov 7, 2019

VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517

More than 200 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed as an official chronometer maker of the French Navy, and the tradition lives on today in the Breguet Marine 5517. The 5517 is a robust sports watch, machined in a lightweight titanium that almost perfectly matches the deep-grey dial tone, and offers a host of details … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Maritime mastery with the Breguet Marine 5517 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part I SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin tourbillon pocket watch ref Nov 7, 2019

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part I

Phillips’ thematic auction this season is titled Double Signed: A Celebration of the Finest Partnerships Between Manufacturers and Retailers, with a catalogue composed of watches with retailer signatures mostly on the dial, but occasionally on the case back. Though a retailer signature in itself does not make a great watch, many watches in the sale are already superb watches, but made even more special by the retailer’s mark, like the Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 below. More broadly, Double Signed is more historically evocative than most other thematic auctions, because many of the retailers cited within represent a particular time and place that is long gone, even if the retailer remains in business. Examples include Serpico y Laino of Caracas, which no doubt prospered during Venezuela’s good times that are now long forgotten, or Le Palais Royal of Havana that was the island’s premiere retailer before the Communist revolution. Here’s part one of the roundup of highlights from the sale. (And part II is here.) Lot 11 – Vacheron Constantin tourbillon pocket watch ref. 92244 “Asprey” One of the most proper examples of haute horlogerie in the sale is this Vacheron Constantin pocket watch that contains an observatory-certified tourbillon movement from the 1940s, though the watch was only finished and sold in 1992. It’s believed that in the 1990s, Vacheron Constantin discovered a small number of tourbillon movements that had been tested and certified as chronomet...

Hype beasts – 5 of this year’s most unobtainable watches Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Sep 29, 2019

Hype beasts – 5 of this year’s most unobtainable watches

While there are some enthusiasts out there who feel as though the vast majority of new watches released at this year’s Baselworld and SIHH were a bit … safe, there were still some real stunners unveiled from legacy outfits like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. And, because the collective products of these three aforementioned … ContinuedThe post Hype beasts – 5 of this year’s most unobtainable watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Sep 22, 2019

4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar

The very utterance of the words “must have” when talking about the ideal watch collection will almost always lead to, at the very least, enthusiastic speculation and, more often than not, heated debate. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is forever being bandied about as THE watch to have in any discerning collection, and the Rolex … ContinuedThe post 4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref 3700 Sep 3, 2019

Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2”

The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...

In-Depth: The Microscopic Magic of H4, Harrison’s First Sea Watch SJX Watches
Sep 2, 2019

In-Depth: The Microscopic Magic of H4, Harrison’s First Sea Watch

One can understand the opacity of the first published analysis of John Harrison’s first sea watch, colloquially known as H4 and the forerunner of the marine chronometer, in The Principles of Mr Harrison’s Time-keeper. Edited by the British Astronomer Royal Nevil Maskelyne, it was published by the British government in 1767; and hereafter referred to as Principles. Principles was both incomplete of enough information to allow the duplication of the watch, which Harrison (1693-1776) started in 1755 and finished in 1759, and contained somewhat incoherent description that only makes sense a posteriori after examination of the watch. ‘Principles of Mr. Harrison’s Time-keeper’ Amazingly, it was one hundred years later the next review took place. I can echo Harrison M. Frodsham’s comments in his review in Horological Journal of May 1878 when he said, “Former explanations taken from Harrison’s description are necessarily unsatisfactory, as his was very obscure, probably purposely so.”  Although this may be dismissed as 19th Century gossip by some scholars, this may have arisen in part to protect any military advantage, given the importance of H4 to maritime navigation. Considering H4’s historical performance, it is odd that the otherwise comprehensive A Treatise on Modern Horology in Theory and Practice (2ndedition) by Claudius Saunier, published in 1887, barely mentions Harrison and certainly not H4’s technical content. Perhaps it was because it was so quic...

Wrist Watching: Two Legendary Broadcast Journalists And Their Truly Iconic Watches, Walter Cronkite And Peter Jennings Quill & Pad
Omega chronographs resident watch spotter Aug 31, 2019

Wrist Watching: Two Legendary Broadcast Journalists And Their Truly Iconic Watches, Walter Cronkite And Peter Jennings

Walter Cronkite and Peter Jennings were two of the best known and most respected broadcast journalists on American television. While Cronkite was known to wear a gold Rolex Datejust and Omega chronographs, resident watch spotter Nick Gould surprisingly found evidence of Jennings sporting a Heuer Monaco.

G-Shock Introduces the “Extra-Thin” GA-2100 Carbon Core Guard SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch 13mm Aug 29, 2019

G-Shock Introduces the “Extra-Thin” GA-2100 Carbon Core Guard

The new G-Shock GA-2100 is likely the most wearable in the line-up, being the thinnest G-Shock ever. Its compact dimensions – and analogue hands – gives it the feel of a conventional watch, avoiding the extremely oversized style of many G-Shocks. Just 11.8mm high, the GA-2100 is thinner than the Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch (13mm) and the Rolex Daytona (12.2mm). The case diameter is 45.4mm, though it looks and feels substantially smaller. G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe at the launch of the GA-2100 in Singapore Though reduced in size, the GA-2100 has the traditional G-Shock case construction that includes an inner protective bumper around the electronic module. Visible around the steel case back, the bumper is made of carbon composite – which Casio has named the Carbon Core Guard – which is a dark marbled grey and distinct from the black resin outer case. The octagonal bezel is immediately reminiscent of the Royal Oak, but according to Casio it is actually a reworking of the bezel of the original G-Shock of 1983, the DW-5000C, which was octagonal, albeit one with unequal sides. The GA-2100 has an analogue displays for the time and day of the week, but also all the usual electronic functions of a G-Shock in two LCD windows, including multiple time zones, stopwatch, alarm, countdown and calendar. Key facts and price Diameter: 45.4mm Height: 11.8mm Material: Resin and carbon composite with steel back Water resistance: 200m Movement: 5611 Functions: Multi-fu...

Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here’s why Time+Tide
Tudor Aug 1, 2019

Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here’s why

Editor’s note: Not many know it, but Australia was one of the most important markets for Hans Wilsdorf as he built the businesses of Rolex and Tudor in the early part of the 20th century. Tudor watches have been in Australia for the best part of 100 years, proving that Australians know great value when … ContinuedThe post Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here’s why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jul 4, 2019

Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019

Among vintage military watches, some are more interesting and significant than others. They include the IWC Mark 11 and Rolex “Milsub”,  and also the early Type 20 chronographs made by Breguet for the French air force and navy in the 1950s. Breguet has revived the first-generation, military-issue Type 20 for Only Watch 2019. The one of a kind remake is faithful not just in terms of dimensions and aesthetics, but also the movement. Instead of a modern calibre, it is powered by a refurbished, vintage Valjoux 235 movement, just like the original. Breguet Type 20 “Only Watch” And a bit of nomenclature explanation before proceeding: “Type 20” refers to a French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, which refers to the original, military-issue watches. Watches produced for the civilian market, including the modern day models, are identified by the model name in Roman numerals – Type XX. The origins After WWII, Breguet was one of several watchmakers, including Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa, Auricoste, and Dodane, that supplied Type 20 chronographs to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. While the actual Type 20 specification has been lost, the general consensus is that it called for a watch a prominent seconds track, a 38mm-ish case with a screw-in back and thickness of not more than 14mm, accuracy of within eight seconds a day, and most crucially, a flyback chronograph with a start-stop function that would work reliably at least 300 ti...

The 369-Year Old Watch in Mint Condition SJX Watches
Patek Philippe from Jul 1, 2019

The 369-Year Old Watch in Mint Condition

A “new old stock” Rolex or Patek Philippe from the 1950s is a marvel. So this Jehan Cremsdorff pocket watch – which was made around 1650, making it almost 370 years old – is miraculous. So incredible is the Cremsdorff that for pocket watch collectors, the last time it was sold was a landmark event; the watch was the “Bao Dai” or “Paul Newman” or Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” of the 1980s. Part of the epic collection of pocket watches owned by a late German billionaire, which also includes the George Daniels Space Traveller I, the Cremsdorff watch is an incredible object that has been mysteriously well preserved over the centuries, with only minimal restoration to the enamel. Though little is known about him, Jehan Cremsdorff was a watchmaker active in Paris during the late 17th century. Its immensely elaborate enamel work indicates Cremsdorff probably made the watch for a royal or noble client; the identity of the original owner is lost to time, but the watch came from Sweden when it was first sold publicly. Made of thin sheets of gold, the case is entirely enamelled, inside and out, an artistic accomplishment that was done by a now unknown Parisian enameller. The outer case is decorated with champleve and relief enamel, forming a remarkably intricate and vivid flower motif. And for good measure the outer case is also set with diamonds on both sides. The inside faces of the case are finished in a brilliant turquoise enamel that’s been...

Is the Tudor Black Bay GMT the perfect travel watch? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay GMT Apr 23, 2019

Is the Tudor Black Bay GMT the perfect travel watch?

Editor’s note: The other week I met up with a globetrotting friend from the internet (it happens more often than you might suspect), and on his wrist was the Tudor Black Bay GMT. It looked great, and more than that, old mate actually wore it travelling (as opposed to his vintage Rolex GMT), because it … ContinuedThe post Is the Tudor Black Bay GMT the perfect travel watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

‘Too big, too chunky, not versatile…’ Why the Fifty-Eight was the answer to this guy’s Tudor Black Bay blues … Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Apr 8, 2019

‘Too big, too chunky, not versatile…’ Why the Fifty-Eight was the answer to this guy’s Tudor Black Bay blues …

Editor’s note: There were some notable absences at Baselworld 2019. A new Milgauss from Rolex, a new Monaco from TAG Heuer; in fact, the only birthday that happened on schedule, apart from the barnstorming return of Doxa in time for its 130th, was the glorious profusion of Zenith El Primero models. But no missing model was quite … ContinuedThe post ‘Too big, too chunky, not versatile…’ Why the Fifty-Eight was the answer to this guy’s Tudor Black Bay blues … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

BREAKING: Introducing the OMEGA Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Revolution
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Mar 12, 2019

BREAKING: Introducing the OMEGA Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition

Omega commemorates 50 years of the Moon landing by releasing a very special Speedmaster that’s reminiscent of the 1969 Tribute to Apollo XI timepiece. This new edition is presented in their own 18k Moonshine gold, with a new Master Chronometer in-house Caliber 3861. Revolution founder Wei Koh speaks exclusively with Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann on this important timepiece.