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How colour theory affects your watch collection Time+Tide
Jul 17, 2023

How colour theory affects your watch collection

Given the huge variety in colours, gradients and and textures on dials these days, it’s more important than ever to understand how colour actually works. You may think of it as being as simple as applying pigment equals colour, but there’s really a lot more going on both in the factories and in your eyes. … ContinuedThe post How colour theory affects your watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2023

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

Picking out my favourite references for this year’s Only Watch auctions, I was pretty shocked to realise how much my tastes have changed over the last handful of years. Some of these brands I even used to hate, although I won’t be admitting which ones. Only Watch is the perfect chance for brands to change … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Ben Roth Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300T Caribbean – Jul 14, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Ben Roth

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Ben Roth shares a trio of all-time classics that span genres and styles. We love this collection for its authenticity and inspiration, with all three of these watches actually appearing in Ben’s collection.  If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I gave myself an additional challenge when choosing my three watches for $5,000, in that I didn’t want to put anything on the list that I actually own. What I wanted to dig into is exactly what I look for in the watches I wear and what pieces completely reflect what I’m looking for (and stay within the price limit.) What came from this challenge is a sharp and subtle collection that references my favorite books and movies while also being completely functional for everything life can throw at a person. Doxa Sub 300T Caribbean – $1,890 A Doxa Sub 300T was the first watch I thought of for this collection, and I was originally going to pick the black Sharkhunter colorway. The blue Caribbean won out, however, because if I were ever to do the impossible and become a one watch guy a blue dive watch would be my pick. The Caribbean colorway honors that, and if the Sub 300T is good enough for the likes of Dirk Pitt and Robert Redford in Three Days of the Condor then it’s certainly good enough for me. It would also be amazing on a nato strap for the summer, and I could see myself wearing...

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Citizen s “Unite Jul 14, 2023

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch

If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch SJX Watches
Breguet Bestows Jul 14, 2023

Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch

Breguet has unveiled a unique version of its world time wristwatch for Only Watch, the highly anticipated charity auction. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 “Only Watch 2023” is dressed in striking, rich colours that are unusual for Breguet, bringing a new face to the jumping display, dual time sports watch with a dial that’s a twist on the traditional world map motif. The dial features a gilded globe that’s a representation of the lighted areas of the world at night. Initial thoughts Since its debut last year, the Marine Hora Mundi has remained a hidden gem. The watch boasts a clever jumping dual-time complication and it is also a luxury-sports watch, the most popular segment of watchmaking in recent years. While the production version of the Hora Mundi has a dial that feels relatively flat, the Only Watch edition is far more striking. The dial motif is a clever concept that has not been used before in watchmaking, where gilded accents are used to represent the world’s population. Moreover, the dial does away with the latitude and longitude lines found on the original, making the map and guilloche more prominent. Given the aesthetic appeal of this dial design, we hope that a similar design will be introduced for the regular production model following Only Watch. But for now, the charity auction will be the only chance to land this Hora Mundi. It carries an estimate of CHF70,000 to CHF80,000, a modest price estimate. It anticipated that this will be readily exceeded dur...

Ianos Teams up with Chronopassion for a Limited Edition Version of their Mihanikos Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 12, 2023

Ianos Teams up with Chronopassion for a Limited Edition Version of their Mihanikos Dive Watch

Fans of funky and purely creative dive watches will surely remember Ianos, and specifically their Mihanikos dive watch, reviewed here by our own Ed Jelley. It’s one of the more creative divers from a small independent in the micro-brand sphere we can recall, drawing inspiration from brand founder Jacob Hatzidimitriou’s Greek heritage, and the sponge divers of the Greek island of Kalymnos. The latest release from Ianos is a collaboration with Chronopassion, the Paris based watch retailer specializing in high end independents. It turns out Chronopassion owner Laurent Picciotto is an Ianos fan (Jacob spotted his name on the order list for the original run of the Mihanikos), so the seeds of a collaboration have been growing for quite some time. The new limited edition seeks to give the Mihanikos some additional contemporary design notes, with colors inspired by the City of Light. Fans of the original Mihanikos will immediately recognize that the new limited edition keeps the original design of the watch, but changes up the color considerably for a very different impression. Instead of a dark blue dial, we get a slate gray combined with jet black lume filled hands. We still get the signature sterile bezel (made from a single piece of steel) with the ultra fine texture that makes this watch so distinctive. One of the fun things about the Mihanikos is how every element of the watch ties back to the long history of Greek diving culture. The visual impression of the case and be...

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jul 12, 2023

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands

Shortly after the release of their initial timepiece, the Carillon Tourbillon, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre are making their debut at Only Watch with the Catharsis. A bold take on the chiming watch, this unique piece has no hands on the dial, but indicates the time with the carillon minute repeater. The dial is instead decorated with a mixture of gemstones, semi-precious stone marquetry, and guilloché to create an abstract scene depicting the Moon over a seascape. Inside is a variant of the movement as Biver’s first watch, but with an hour hand on the reverse. Initial thoughts  The father-and-son duo behind Biver have to be commended for a daring debut at Only Watch, even though the watch will no doubt be polarising. They have gone extremely conceptual with the Catharsis. The idea of creating a watch with no visible way of telling the time is nothing new, having been done recently by H. Moser & Cie. in 2019 and earlier by Haldimann and Romain Jerome. However, the Catharsis aims to make a statement and chart a course for this newly minted independent brand. The aesthetics of original Biver repeater model were mixed, so this watch actually addresses that issue in a weird yet logical manner. The visual focus of the watch is the dial, which is not really a dial but a canvas for elaborate decoration. The 89 sapphires that make up the waves have been invisibly set and create a pleasing effect alongside the meteorite moon, silver obsidian sky and mother of pearl stars...

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in Chicago This Weekend… Worn & Wound
Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Jul 11, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair is Almost Here! A Full Breakdown of Everything to See and Experience in Chicago This Weekend…

Now in its ninth year, and second in Chicago, the Windup Watch Fair is quickly becoming a fixture of the Chicago watch community. This weekend, enthusiasts, collectors, and newbies alike will gather to shop and talk watches-and this year, there are even more events to participate in! Not only are there over 60 brands to check out at the Fair, as well as a full slate of FREE panels and programming. Read through the full rundown of special events below, but first, let’s remind everyone of the basics. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support of our presenting partners and, most importantly, our Lead Sponsors. This year’s Lead Sponsors include Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and Zodiac. All of these brands will have a significant presence within the Fair, with dynamic booth spaces and special events. Throughout the days, attendees can expect the latest watch releases, a live auction, a full cash bar, dedicated lounge spaces, outdoor space, as well as an on-site watchmaker to adjust and swap straps for your newest or favorite collection pieces. We’re beyond excited to be joined by over 60 presenting brands this year. The full roster of brands includes: And as a reminder, the event location and hours are as follows: Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 14: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Now, ont...

Zach’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2023

Zach’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

Only Watch is probably my favourite endeavour within the watch industry. It is the ultimate horological win-win-win scenario. First and foremost, the charity auction raises a ton of money for a great cause. Only Watch was founded in 2005 by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (a genetic disease that … ContinuedThe post Zach’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023” SJX Watches
Omega Jul 10, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC30 “Only Watch 2023”

For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial.  Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards.  But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...

Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2023

Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece

E-waste. It’s an ever-growing problem, and one without easy solutions. Clearly, innovative thinking is needed, including new methods of manufacturing, recycling, and even upcycling when an electronic product reaches the end of its useful life. And while this example isn’t the answer, it is a showcase for some truly innovative thinking, as well as a … ContinuedThe post Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SLGA023 brings unparalleled beauty and accuracy to a dive watch Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA023 brings unparalleled beauty Jul 9, 2023

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SLGA023 brings unparalleled beauty and accuracy to a dive watch

While it may not be the first brand you think of when it comes to dive watches, Grand Seiko produces some of the most handsome, robust and accurate dive watches on the market. And the latest Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection SLGA023 diver is a perfect example. Its faceted hi-intensity titanium evolution 9 case, while … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SLGA023 brings unparalleled beauty and accuracy to a dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch Time+Tide
Baltic Brew or Boldr there Jul 8, 2023

Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch

Some microbrands just get it. Their designs are elegant, their execution flawless, their carefully chosen components top-notch, and their customer experience first-rate. But for every Baltic, Brew, or Boldr, there are scads of ill-conceived releases that, for one reason or another, can cause my eye to twitch uncontrollably. A handset that’s all wrong. An off-putting … ContinuedThe post Microbrand dealbreakers: Don’t make these mistakes when launching your new watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF! Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2023

Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF!

Watchmaking is a source of pride for various regions. Of course the most famous are the Swiss, but Japan, Britain, Germany also proudly boast high quality watchmaking – where each region has their own personal stamp on the art form. The USA, once home to a burgeoning watch industry, finds itself working back towards prestige, … ContinuedThe post Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Scrolling: Five Instagram Accounts to Follow for Crispy Watch Photography, Wide Ranging Curation and Niche Deep Dives Worn & Wound
Jul 7, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Five Instagram Accounts to Follow for Crispy Watch Photography, Wide Ranging Curation and Niche Deep Dives

The Instagram watch community is an ever growing one. For watch enthusiasts, it has turned from a place where we shared our passion for the hobby by posting the standard wrist shot, to a platform filled with an endless amount of accounts dedicated to high level watch photography, intersections between different interests adjacent to watches and niche accounts that seemingly dive deep into any subject related to horology. It has also become a place where connections are made and friendships are fostered which often lead to a conversation that extends beyond the DMs into real life. In the spirit of beautiful photography, an insatiable appetite to learn new things and meeting new people, Thomas Calara, has chosen five Instagram accounts that embodies that very essence. Great photography as well as a diverse curation are the standard. However, in addition to that, there’s also an array of great storytelling, portraits and historical nuggets sprinkled in. Check out the entire round-up below and the rest of our Watch Scrolling multi-part series here. Header image via: @samsveblenianobsession @samsveblenianobsession Sam’s taste in watches, as well as his photography skills are impeccable and you’d be hard pressed to find someone who knows more about the independent watch space than him. A quick scroll through his feed displays several heavy hitters and even though his collection is independent-focused, his choices for what remains in the watch box still somehow strays away ...

Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille Debut Unique Pendant Watches for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Richard Mille Debut Unique Pendant Watches Jul 7, 2023

Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille Debut Unique Pendant Watches for Only Watch 2023

The upcoming instalment of Only Watch sees both Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille unveiling one-of-a-kind pendant watches for the charity auction. Despite having having the same basic form, both watches are drastically different. The American jeweller reimagines its trademark Bird on a Rock brooch, transforming it into a watch that features a front-facing bird perched on an aquamarine crystal set on an 18k yellow gold watch case, showcasing the artful fusion of jewellery artistry and functional timekeeping. Richard Mille’s offering, on the other hand, is the RM S14 Talisman Origine that combines ancient shamanic motifs with the brand’s avant-garde, open-worked mechanics. And like many Richard Mille watches, the movement boasts a tourbillon. Initial thoughts By opting for a pendant watch, Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille demonstrate their creativity and willingness to explore fresh avenues. Of the two timepieces, the offering from Tiffany is arguably more compelling because it is more sculptural. In fact, it is not apparent that the Bird on a Rock is a watch at all from a distance. And the “Bird” is not mere jewellery, it is a proper mechanic watch with a manually wound calibre, albeit a basic one. Richard Mille, usually a watchmaker through and through, shows its remarkable ability to transcend expectations by transforming its distinctive, tonneau watch case into jewellery that doubles as a work of art. Despite its unusual form, Talisman is still typical Richard Mill...

It’s The Chicago Windup Watch Fair 2023 Product Preview! Worn & Wound
Citizen Citizen Jul 6, 2023

It’s The Chicago Windup Watch Fair 2023 Product Preview!

Windup Watch Fair Chicago is closer than ever! If you’ve been following along, you know Windup is growing fast. This year, we are returning to the same venue in the West Loop and adding more watches, more live events, more accessories, and a whole lot more in general. You don’t want to miss it. As a reminder, here are the key event details: Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 14: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Here’s a sneak preview of just some of the watches from our Lead Sponsors you’ll be able to get your hands on at Windup this year. For a full roster of presenting brands, scheduled events, and a product showcase, head to windupwatchfair.com and join our email community. Citizen Citizen, a trusted name and brand leader in the watch industry for over 100 years, is known the world over for its uncompromising values: technical precision, innovative mindset, quality craftsmanship and design excellence. The first to create quartz crystal and titanium timepieces, Citizen was also an early pioneer in advocating for the environment, launching the first light-powered watches with proprietary Eco-Drive technology in 1976, thus adding eco-mindful as a core value. Citizen’s diverse portfolio of high-performance and eco-mindful watches is accessibly priced and ranges from professional-grade, sport-inspired designs with advanced functions to sophisticated, timeless silhouet...

Step aside About Effing Time – this is my ultimate three-watch collection Time+Tide
Jul 6, 2023

Step aside About Effing Time – this is my ultimate three-watch collection

Building a fantasy watch collection is a fun game many watch collectors play. With so many watches to choose from, and so many collector-personalities to make these choices, it is always interesting to see which watches people select in these horological fantasy drafts. Often, because there are so many options to choose from, parameters are … ContinuedThe post Step aside About Effing Time – this is my ultimate three-watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Hublot Introduces the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire

Hublot has once again partnered with its favourite contemporary artist for Only Watch 2023: the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire is a one-of-a-kind creation for the biennial charity auction that is entirely unique from case to movement. Not only it is the brand’s first-ever central tourbillon, the watch has a sapphire crystal case in the shape of a flower with a bezel set with rainbow gemstones. Initial thoughts While Hublot is sometimes made fun of for its often repetitive limited editions that are colour facelifts, the creation for Only Watch is entirely new and entirely unique. Hublot and the Japanese artist have collaborated in the past, but on watches that were variants of standard models. In contrast, the Murakami Only Watch  pushes boundaries even by Hublot’s extravagant standards with a case entirely in sapphire, and flower-shaped no less. The Murakami Only Watch is also interesting mechanically. The calibre inside has a 150-hour power reserve along with a large, central tourbillon on the front. And the movement is unique to the Murakami Only Watch, at least for now. The aesthetic and mechanical novelty of the Murakami Only Watch are impressive and certainly makes this one of the highlights of Only Watch 2023. While Hublot will almost certainly create variations of this in the future, the effort expended in creating Murakami Only Watch is commendable. The Murakami Only Watch has an estimate of CHF350,000 to CHF400,000, with the high estimate being a ...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Jul 6, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Neo Constant Escapement for Only Watch

A regular participant at Only Watch, Girard-Perregaux’s latest contribution to the charity auction, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch 2023, revisits its innovation constant-force escapement. Girard-Perregaux (GP) first unveiled the Constant Escapement in 2013 as a wristwatch with a unique, dual-wheel escapement with an integral constant-force silicon buckling spring. Ten years on, the Neo Constant Escapement is a revamp of the original concept with incremental upgrades to the mechanism. Initial thoughts The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is not merely a rehash of the original. It is a technical evolution, which is at the very minimum an academically interesting take on an already exotic escapement. The Only Watch edition is dressed in predominantly monochromatic livery with a pink gold case and movement bridges – even the mainspring barrels are pink gold. The generous use of pink gold might be polarising, which arguably makes it perfectly suited as a one-off piece that will inevitably find an eager buyer at the auction. In the grander scheme of things however, the NCE Only Watch edition marks the beginning of GP reviving the Constant Escapement. Even by today’s standards of advanced tech in watchmaking, the Constant Escapement is an integrated design comprised of a double-wheel escapement with a remontoir spring, making it an escapement unlike any other. It is admirable that the escapement has been updated for better reliability, while preserving its original ide...

Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme) Quill & Pad
Jul 6, 2023

Only Watch 2023: Lots 33-48. All the Colors of the Rainbow (This Year’s Auction Theme)

Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet. This year the theme is rainbows: some brands ran with that superbly, while others took a different path. Here Ian Skellern highlights Lots 33-48.